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Messages - Bogan

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 19
1
If you want a clutch, just get a dry clutch out of an NSR or Duc or something, and use that. Put a timing belt on the back and use it as a layshaft and primary gear reduction. Simple assembly with rubber seal bearings, and plastic covers. You'd want to make sure the electric motor rotor has a similar inertia to a crankshaft and flywheel though, if it isn't enough the clutch will be pointless.

Yeh I've built a subframe out of ali that had some cracking problems, due to unblanced design. Chromoly is probably a good compromise.

2
Interesting plan!

Not too sure about how well it will pop the front up, I'm assuming you want overkill on this, as long slow lift wheelie power wouldn't be too good for the sharp bumps. Although a good pull on the bars might overcome this it would get very tiring.

30mph is nice and slow, so slow you might have to run a reduction gear before the final drive chain.

Hope you have access to an AC Tig, a steel framed job would be a struggle to get under 200lbs.

My gut feeling is that its doable, and would be very fun to ride! Only having short burst at full torque will mean you can really push the limits of the motor/controller/batteries. But there's only one way to find out :p

3
Home Brew / Re: New build underway
« on: November 05, 2012, 01:35:35 PM »
Interesting choice of batteries...

4
Tech Help / Re: Ebay project
« on: September 09, 2012, 04:54:59 AM »
What sort of growling sound? My AXE controller makes what could be described as a very quite growl when it hits the under-voltage limit. So as Harlan says, check your voltage limits, connect a voltmeter while riding, and measure the voltage on each battery in the pack to see if one is flat or kaput.

5
Home Brew / Re: High Voltage Induction Motor/Controllers for Bikes
« on: July 09, 2012, 02:49:43 PM »
Perhaps there is a lesson to be learnt there, if the record is broken, maybe its time to change the tune. I've seen far too many projects not realise their potential because of poor design (component selection), which should have been obvious in the design stages. Remember, we're just trying to help; although now I'm also curious as to what benefits a high voltage system can offer over the more common voltage ones, cos I cannot think of any.

6
Home Brew / Re: High Voltage Induction Motor/Controllers for Bikes
« on: July 09, 2012, 07:13:18 AM »
I'm with frodus on this, highest voltage motors I've seen for bikes are around 100V, and (from memory) even those are going to be heavier than your plan allows.

If you want the best build, think power/weight, and leave the arbitrary constraints behind. A 100kg dirtbike is an ambitious build without making it more difficult for yourself.

7
Home Brew / Re: Electric Trials Bike
« on: July 09, 2012, 07:07:28 AM »
I reckon most controllers would fit under there, I think my alltrax one would, and I don't think it is significantly smaller than the competition.

8
Home Brew / Re: 1995 Honda CBR EV Build
« on: June 07, 2012, 03:36:09 AM »
At a guess, 100W of solar if you get good panels. approx 10kwhr of batteries, is 100 hours for a full charge, or 1% charge every hour.

9
Home Brew / Re: 1995 Honda CBR EV Build
« on: June 06, 2012, 04:14:23 PM »
Good point on the batteries frodus, I'd add to that you still want to design with specific batteries in mind, to ensure you will have space for them and not end up with a hodge-podge of batteries stuck all over the show.

10
Home Brew / Re: 1995 Honda CBR EV Build
« on: June 06, 2012, 04:23:45 AM »

The big questions are, is how much are you looking to spend? How mechanically proficient are you? How electrically proficient are you?

I'm quite proficient mechanically, but not electrically. I've pulled a few car engines and transmissions and have done a lot of work on cars. This will be my first motorcycle job. To start I didn't want to reach the 75 MPH/45 mile goal, I wanted to start with a motor and powerplant that would potentially allow me to upgrade the batteried later on down the line.

Cost is always a factor, but I'm not buying the parts all at once. I wanted this to be a weekend project thing that I can buy parts for monthly and keep adding on to it. I just need to know what I'm looking for. Since the bike was in such great shape, the engine is in great shape and I was going to rebuild that and possibly sell it. I'm also tempted to reinstall the gas engine once it's rebuilt, but I'd really like to make the EV conversion work.

Thats the better way to be, the electrical side of things is a bit simpler than the mechanical in these builds.

Be wary of feature creep, it generally costs more in time and money than just doing it properly to begin with. If you're sure you want a bike with high spec speed and range, then do the budget for that, and go for it if you can afford it. Starting with cheap parts may sound good in theory, but chances are the newer and better stuff you get later won't bolt straight in, and will require almost as much work again, as the cheap part conversion did.

11
Home Brew / Re: 1995 Honda CBR EV Build
« on: June 05, 2012, 02:30:26 AM »
Brushless require more complicated motor controllers, but are lower maintenance motors. I won't comment on the power/weight/cost of each, cos you'll be finding that out more accurately when you have a look around for the best motor for you.

75mph, is, at a guess up between 15-20kw. So you'll have to get a motor that is rated for this continuously, not just peak, the peak rating is useful when accelerating, so make sure that is 30kw or more, and that your controller is rated for the peak too. You'll also have to ensure you battery pack is large enough to output that power. For pack size, say 20kw for 40mins (to get the range at 75mph + a bit extra for acceleration), is 13kwHr.

The big questions are, is how much are you looking to spend? How mechanically proficient are you? How electrically proficient are you?

12
Tech Help / Re: Hub motor vs Frame mounted motor ?
« on: May 07, 2012, 04:31:09 AM »
As brammofan says, it comes down to ride quality, lots of unsprung mass makes for a bumpy ride, good suspension can help smooth it out, but you'll never get the smoothness and grip you can with standard configurations. Also a heavier rear wheel takes more energy to spin up, so you might lose acceleration there, though I'm not sure if it balances out with a wheel plus motor's inertia for the normal configuration anyway.

13
Home Brew / Re: Is this a good starting platform?
« on: April 13, 2012, 03:16:58 AM »
Commuter bike at what speed and range?

14
Home Brew / Re: Is this a good starting platform?
« on: April 12, 2012, 03:44:43 PM »
Depends largely on the proposed build, I don't think it is one of the lightest frame out there, but if you want an open road cruiser the extra weight capacity is probably a good thing.

Depending on your plan and mechanical ability, the cradle frame could also be a positive or a negative.

15
Wouldn't recomend it, you have to match the discharge rates and capacity to the motor and desired usage.

Still, if they were free, it's not that hard to knock up a battery box for testing.

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