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My 2020 SR/F developed a “blob” suddenly in its TFT when it was about 2 years old.
The spot affected was darker than the area around it and looked like very out of focus and of course, the colors looked very different as well.
It was about the size of a quarter, maybe a tad bigger and started quite suddenly, without the bike even falling or getting a rain shower or a wash. (Or parked in the sun for a period of time).

It literately was fine one day and messed up the next.
I did not want to see that ugly mess and ordered a replacement which I installed myself.
Quite an expensive part if you ask me and the fact that it went kaput just after the warranty expired was very unfortunate.
Hopefully, the replacement won’t suffer the same failure that quickly!

Adding a mounting point is as easy as drilling a hole and installing a Rivnut. If the shape fits the swingarm I don't see why it can't work.

Mechanically, it should be possible to attach the guard to the swingarm of a different model if they are close enough in shape.
In addition to the Rivnut It might require getting/making custom spacers and or small brackets, if you want the best fit possible.
I would love to give it a try and would buy one right now.
Unfortunately, the only online catalog for the DSR/X I could find after a quick search was at af1racing and the link does not work: As of right now, the link to the 2023-24 DSR/X is there but not working.

Hopefully, the part number will be available soon and I will buy one and post the results.

I cannot find a way to reset the BMS on the SR/F battery. Is there way to do it.

The system is shuting down before I can access it with bluetooth and the menu never shows up from the OBD access.

The display indicate SOC of ~15% but not sure. Is there some place I can messure with a voltmeter?

You have to remove the BMS cover (four bolts if I remember correctly) to expose the board, on which you will have to press a tiny reset button, next to a green LED.

Once you are looking at the board, you can’t miss the little button if you have enough light.

Just overtaking someone, not particularly fast. Belt had just over 7k miles on it. No warning or anything, just suddenly lost drive mid-overtake. Sucks.

I will ponder my life's choices as I sit by the side of the road waiting for the AA.

Cas

Your belt got you about 3 times as many miles as mine did.
A few months ago I was stopped at a red light and when it was time to go, the bike only moved a few dozen feet; barely enough to get me to the other side. And I wasn’t particularly hard on it, just your normal acceleration after a full stop.

I spent a lot of time and money trying to convert it to chain but for a couple of reasons decided to scrap that project.

Being that I truly hate the idea of being stranded again due to another belt snapping for no apparent reason, decided to buy the center stand for the bike (indispensable if you need to install a new belt on the road) a short socket drive that fits perfectly under the seat and the socket for the rear axle and torx bit for the belt tensioners.

After carefully folding a spare belt in half (have to be very careful there as carbon fibers are sensitive to rough twisting and one can easily damage the belt) and storing it in the bike’s cubby”,
I am prepared to replace my belt on the go if it happens again.
The only other thing I remember I added to my kit was a nail clipper to break the tie wraps around the electrical connector that goes to the tail light.

Once you know what needs to be done to replace a belt (at least on the 20 SR/F) it goes really fast; the design on these bikes have simplified replacing the belt a lot.

I think Zero used a belt one or two sizes too small for the torque on these bikes.
There is a Ducati with a massive belt I see in the showroom when I go to my Zero dealer for parts. Now, that is a belt that makes me envious and if it wasn’t an ICE bike, I would consider getting one. I like to see things engineered with “a marging for error” but I am digressing. . . .

Quote from: NetPro on February 12, 2022, 12:19:45 PM

if I remember correctly, Zero recommends not doing that as it could interfere with the bike's electronics.

Very unlikely. They are concerned about there being too much ripple in the charger. Just don't buy the cheapest one money can buy and all should be fine. The old cheap ones from HFT put out a lot of garbage. I would stay away from those, but even those are unlikely to cause a problem. The battery itself makes a good filter for the ripple.


Besides, I don't think HFT now even sells the old cheap ones I am referring to. I think they broke part 15 of the FCC rules and no longer may sell them.


-Don- Reno, NV

I bet Don, you are correct and the crappy chargers out there caused problems with something on the bike and Zero issued a blanket statement warning not to use them.
I will buy a high quality one and have it ready for next winter. By the time the dealer returns my bike fixed (with the BMS problem) it won't be winter any longer in southern North Carolina.

I had sent an email to the Antigravity folks asking if the AG-401, (the battery they make comparable to what Zero is putting on the SR/F) had a BMS and the response was NO.
They said the smallest battery they make with a BMS is the https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/restart-oem/atz7-rs/

It is the same LifeP04 technology but it is quite a bit bigger: Just a bit over an inch thicker but it certainly won't fit in the little shelf Zero created for that purpose, at least not in my model-year.
Not sure I want to be monkeying around in the area where this battery is located, enlarging the drawer where it goes so, I will consider the charger as discussed earlier.
 

Quote from: NetPro on February 11, 2022, 11:49:40 AM

This is a bare-bones battery

The fact that so many people have had this battery fail is proof that something was not engineered right

The lack of a BMS, will explain why they're failing so often.

Indeed it does!
I opened one cell just now to see if there was anything inside (a long shot but possible) to provide thermal protection or anything of the sort, but there isn't.

This battery is as basic as it gets, folks: 4 cells soldered together and sealed in a case, not a doggone thing else (other than the heater stuck to the outside) 

Shame on Zero!

According to the dealer, the BMS bit the dust and must be replaced.
Waiting on the part to arrive and see if anything else got messed up.

The 0% charge was bogus though. The dealer said they got the BMS to work for a few minutes and it was showing the actual charge. Unfortunatelly, it only lasted a very short time and went down again.

This bike only has 2650 miles on it and never been left outside.
Charging has been done following best practices recommended on this forum and scheduled maintenance followed to the T.

Could be just bad luck but I don't  think I  would buy another Zero.
That BMS is probably very expensive and the cellular module quit working a few weeks ago too and  would also need replacement  once the  main problem is corrected.