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I'm aware of the risk and of course won't resell it. Payed a little over 1000usd for it, https://evea-kartmasters.fr/en/synchronous-motors/1817-me1507-pmsm-brushless-motors.html
It's still able to get registered, I'm fine with lower capacity and power specs compared to original and I prefer to fix used stuff rather than buying new.
I might be able to arrange another power supply than the original battery to try the other parts of the bike out but would require more work.
Please reply here if you got any hints that can bring me forward.

I just got to buy a wrecked Zero DS 2013 for about the price of a new Montenergy 1507. Most part seems ok except for dead battery and missing belt. My local zero workshop had a look at it but after an unsuccessful MBB readout they told me it's not worth the effort, which didn't surprise me. Afaik the bike as been standing outdoors for about 3,5 years, probably at 0% SoC from the start.
I still haven't given up but I'm a bit stuck at the moment.
I've opened the front of the monolith battery pack and made a male connector to interface the female connector coming from all the cell groups, (and temp sensors I guess, 29 pins for cell groups and 7 more that I haven't figured out yet). I charged the pack really slowly under careful observation to 95v (started at 1,8v so it was really dead), using a bench supply, which means about 3,3v/cell and then tried to reconnect the BMS and continue charging with the onboard charger but no signs of life at all weather I use the key or charger, not even the BMS led's. I was hoping to get a bunch of error codes to start working on.
I didn't have any tool to measure the capacity at the outputs of the bench supply but at the input it used about 1,3kwh to 95v and the cell groups seems to behave quite similar.

I don't have high expectations from the old pack but even if I'm ending up not being able to use it at all I want to start of by putting the system under power to try the rest of the parts out, and see if the motor is spinning, at least it turns freely. Got some Zoe modules that I thought of retrofitting in the battery case if I have to let go of the Farasis cells.

I've been checking all fuses, tried to reset the BMS (with both buttons) and disconnected the MBB to reset.
I've tested the main contactor separately and it switches on at about 50v, only before I charged the battery though.
Tried to get something out of the uart at the odb but seems dead.
Measured the pins at the com port on the BMS but all seems to be close to 0v


All I've got are:
*Some clicking from the charger relays when plugging in, and then I actually get a slowly rising voltage at the motor controller inputs, up to about 80v while the charged draws about 10w from the mains.
* 95v from battery at pin 18 on the MBB connector 1 (https://zeromanual.com/images/b/b4/ZeroWireDrawing_2013_S_11-4_R-1-3-0_no-grid_highRes.pdf)
* 95v at the 4pin connector leading to the ignition key

Anyone got a clue if there is anything else I can check to get me further?

Just adding another tip; https://no-scufftiretool.com/

Thanks Wasn't so much of an achievement though, pretty much plug and play, it's a shame I haven't shared the findings more earlier on. This was 4 years ago, mostly connected to this environment/off grid festival:
https://www.skogsfesten.se/musikkonstworkshops2018

Just had the bike about 6 months before it got stolen, but been trying to do similar things with other electric vehicles, last year we used the 400v bus at a Nissan Leaf connected to a large 48v bank in the back of the stage via 3*3kw Eltek chargers (which worked fine with dc input), then used 48v UPS's to invert to 230v ac for the venue, this setup had less efficiency but allowed for hot-swapping (so we could drain the car, then have some time to go and charge it up again of site). Stumbled upon the stolen Zero a few weeks by coincidence, hopefully I can buy it back from the insurance company and do some more experiments again, battery probably in really bad shape though, seemed to had been sitting outdoors uncharged for 3,5 years
I actually also used the Zero-UPS setup in my cottage a couple of times and powered a induction stove, if I remember correctly I could run 2 of 4 zones at about half power. Electricity to heat is usually quite tricky and maybe not the best idea if there are options, consumes a lot;

Sorry for hijacking this thread and sliding OT.

I've done a similar thing a couple of years ago using a Siemens UPS built for 4s lead-acid batteries so about 96v nominal, if I remember correct the model I used is this; http://www.arifidenza.it/Public/data/ik1xpp/201093133641_a.pdf Siemens Masterguard A Series 3000, which could deliver a decent sine wave at about 2500w continuous. What I also discovered was that the Zero DS 2013 I was using were fine emptying the battery to the inverter instead of the motor controller as long as you gave it a spin (had the rear wheel hanging of the ground) at least once/hour, if not it went in to some kind of standby mode. I used it a couple of times running a small venue with soundsystem, lights, backline and control booth and did not have any problems really.

The picture is from when I first tried it out with some restive dummy loads, the UPS was connected straight to the dc-link at the motor-controller terminals. The nice thing about that specific UPS, more than being one of the few that can handle the Zero voltage span, is that it has quite small transformers, probably high switching speed, so without the default battery it's quite light for the amount of power compared to other UPS's.

Even tried charging a Nissan Leaf a few times with this setup

(FYI Posted this also in this thread http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=8981.msg76991#msg76991)

Long shot, do you still have a display left and are you willing to ship to sweden?

Just interested to hear if you made any progress with the emw12000 and your zero?