ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

As far as the " Not plugged in part " You are probably correct.
Perhaps I was looking at the app wrong. After a ride last night
I thought I would try again. THIS Time, I was going to try the
update, THEN plug in to charger. When I hit update, it started.
Finished update and said update complete. Will take out for another
ride tonight after the sun goes down to see how it works.
Sorry to have posted before exhausting all avenues.

I have had a 2012, 2013, 2014, 2016 and 2018. The 2012 was lower voltage, so not comparable here.
The 2013 FX I have was an orphan year and is the only FX in the 96 volt category That is different.
Also, the FX seems to have a lower output onboard charger so that will also be different than your DS.
Until 2014 or so, Zero said that if your butt wasn't on the seat, the plug should be in the wall. Battery
people will disagree. Cell Balance on my 2013 is all over the place. Getting down to where it should be
when at or near full charge. My 2014 and 2016 were always charged to around 60~80 percent for
everyday use. Every few weeks, I would charge to 100% overnight before a ride to balance the cells.
No issues on my 2014 or 2016. I recently acquired a 2018 FXS which seems to be between 1 and 3
for balance when full or near full, but goes out to around 20 as charge gets lower. 2018 Manual
says that if cells are way out of balance then leave bike plugged in for as long as 72 hours to balance.
Not a lot of luck with that yet. My 2013 FX gives similar information to what all my other bikes do
so that should not be an issue. Bikes are never charged or stored in direct sunlight or extreme cold.
The only thing that I have noticed with the key on or off is that if bike has reached full charge and
been sitting a bit, key on will reengage the charger and bump the charge up a bit. It may make a difference
in how it reads, but, doesn't really add any real life range. The App " should " read all the way to full and
a little past where the charge light on the dash shuts off. The app " should " show it still charging at that point.
I live in Vegas, so Hot should be an issue, but, hasn't seemed to be.
Whenever possible, if using the onboard charger, I use a 1772 adaptor and 240 Volts. If using 120 volts,
I try to use a QuiQ charger.
All bikes prior to SR/F and SR/S should be similar information. Not sure about FXE.
If anyone disagrees, please let me know. We can never have enough education.
Hope this helps.

It DOES Show as entry level under $20K, but they are doing what the car companies did a dozen years ago, including the tax credit.
So, if you start to build, it is $22K

   I have the 50 amp Tesla Tap that I use on my Mustang Mach E. Haven't yet tried it on any of my Zeros.
As far as connecting goes, I have discovered that here in Vegas at least, they mostly seem to be throttled back.
I have not had any NOT work, but, most seem to work similar to 30 amp J1772. I have found ONE that seems to
work at double that giving me 12KW an hour which is MORE than Ford claims. I usually do One or two hours exactly
at similar starting levels for comparison. The information isn't readily ( for me anyway ) accessible so I have to look
at percentage added in time connected.  If looking to take advantage of available charge capability, the 40 amp version
won't really provide more than the 8K or so previously mentioned. Glad that I chose the 50 amp over the 40. Had I Known
about the higher speed charger on the F-150 Lightning, I probably would have gone with the 80.
Not sure about earlier generation Destination chargers, but the newer ones have a switch inside that allows the owner to
set to " Tesla Only ". This probably wasn't thought of much early on, but, with more adapters coming on the market, it
is probably having more attention paid to it.
   As far as battery temperature, It is accessible via the app and possibly dash at least on the older models. I have a
2013, 2014, and 2016. I was working on " reviving " the batteries on my 2013 FX so rode a bit with only one battery installed
to see how it worked and distance. I discovered that the battery DID get hot and as I recall, it cut off at just under 130 degrees
battery temperature. I BELIEVE that I had battery temperature set for viewing either on the Dash or App when I was drag racing
my 2014.

I might consider if an Older ( 2016 ) SR would work. I have a 2014 S and a 2013 FX which has been converted to FXs, but, battery technology for the 2013 was the only
model that didn't carry forward so it is an orphan. Hollywood Electrics replaced several items including the onboard charger as well as installing race program. If interested,
please let me know. I am in Las Vegas, NV.
Thanks
Ed

It probably depends upon Where you are and what if any 240 Volt receptacles you presently have.
I believe that the 14-50 is the newer style. It can handle 50 amps. The other, I believe only goes to
30 amps. The "R" is for receptacle "P" is for plug. If you have something there already and don't
wish to upgrade, tell them to send you what matches what you have. I had the old style but updated to
the 14-50 just because. You won't be able to pull 50 amps ( 40 actually, 80% of 50 ) unless you have
breakers and wiring to match.

I don't do a lot of road tripping these days, but carry an Elcon 2500 and QuiQ 1KW and J1772 Adaptor when I do.
Takes about 2 hours to fill. Might be interested in one if Plug and Play.