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It's been awhile since I aimed the headlight and it is a bear to adjust it.  One thing I do remember is that when looking from the rear of the headlight assembly the manual shows the adjusters opposite of where they really are.  I.E., the up/down adjustment screw is on the opposite side of the bike than where is says it is.  I was never really happy with the headlight beam as the high and low beam adjust at the same time and I always had a dark gap between the two beams (right where it should have been the brightest).

You need to take you time if you change bars.  There are holes to drill and tap (4mm) in the bars to attach things.  Be careful removing the throttle side grip--hold the shells together after you get it past the anti rotation pin hole in the bar, slide it off the end carefully and bolt the shells back together until you are ready to install it on the replacement bar.  If you aren't careful, a whole lot of little bits and pieces will exit the throttle assembly that are a bitch to get back were they belong.  Don't ask me how I know this but trust me on this!

I wouldn't be too concerned about buying a demo Zero.  However, there are a few things to consider.  You are buying a "used" item, not factory new.  In return you are receiving a substantial discount off the new price.  There might be some cosmetic flaws, a bit of tire (and belt) wear but other than that, there aren't the break in problems from someone tearing the crap out of a new demo Zero that would be found on a new ICE motorcycle.  Many of those require specific break in procedures that would never be followed on a demo.  I have bought demo bikes before and smile all the way to the bank.  That being said, there are differences in the Zero warranty that are spelled out in the paperwork (and can be found in the owners manual) related to demo bikes.  Basically, they relate to the time period of the warranty which basically states that the warranty starts when the bike was placed in demo service, not when you bought it.  Read the fine print carefully before you buy.

In addition, Covid or not, I would never buy anything as expensive as a motorcycle or a car sight unseen.  You have already been disappointed once with this before in an over the phone deal.  The bike might be perfect but might not be.  It is a used product and sold as such.  You need to physically look at it and note anything that concerns you.  The dealer may or may not repair anything you found and at that point you can walk away if you are not satisfied.  Buying used "as is" after something is delivered to you never works in your favor if there is a problem.

I bought a new Vectrix in 2007 and one of the nicest things about it was the throttle control.  The twist grip was very intuitive in its operation.  There was a neutral point that was spring loaded.  Rolling the grip rearward worked like the normal throttle on the Zero.  Release the grip back to it's neutral point and the scooter would coast with no regenerative braking.  Roll the grip forward and you would start to apply regenerative braking.  The more you turned it, the more braking you got.  I usually used this means of stopping the scooter during normal driving.  The Vectrix did not have a foot brake but had brake levers on each end of the handlebar which is common in scooters.  On my Vectrix I swapped the brake levers so the front brake was on the left side and the rear on the right--opposite from the factory position.  It was unnatural to try to control the rear braking effort with the twist grip while applying the front brake with the fingers of the same hand that was being used to control the rear brake.  Once stopped the grip could be rotated forward and the scooter would reverse.  It would not reverse until a complete stop had been made and the twist grip was returned to it's neutral position.  I seem to recall a light on the dash warned you that you were in reverse.  As noted in the original post, the people that hold the remnants of Vectrix still hold the patent.  The fact that we haven't seen it on any other electric motorcycles/scooters means they either aren't interested in licensing it or they want a very high price for the license.

Even if we cannot get the throttle controlled regenerative braking on a Zero, It would be nice to have a hand operated brake lever on the "clutch" side of the handlebar in addition to the foot brake (or in lieu of it) similar to a scooter.  I know it isn't motorcycle style to have hand brakes but with absence of a clutch lever or anything else to to with your left hand, it wouldn't hurt to have it there.  If you look at the Pikes peak  SR/F you will see it is fitted with a hand brake on the left handlebar.  If its good enough for racing----well you get the point!         

I have removed and reinstalled the lid for another reason.  Pretty straightforward, however there are a couple of things to look out for.  You need to remove the tank (which is easy) by removing the six fasteners that hold in to the bike.  After that, there are a ton of screws to remove to take the "tank" sides off.  This will give you access to the pins that hold the lid to the tank.  This is the only tricky part.  With the lid fully open, the springs will be relaxed.  You need to look carefully at the end of the pivot pins to see how they are retained.  There is a small spring loaded pin that keeps the pivot pin in place.  I used a small pick to depress the small pin each time it passed through the supports and the tank lid.  There is a small plastic spacer on the pin on each side of the tank cover that you don't want to loose while removing the pins.  Take a picture of the area where you are working before you start so you won't be mistaken about spacer or spring location when you put it back together.  Reinstalling the pivot pin is simple as the retaining pin just pushes in as you slide the pivot pin into place.  I wish I had taken pictures but I did not and seeing how I no longer have my SR/F, I can't take any now.  However, like I said, pretty easy.  Just keep an eye on the little parts and where they go. 

You are not alone.  And you are correct---it isn't adjustable as the two LED arrays are on the same "board" which is only adjusted by a screw that moves the entire assembly.  When I received my bike, the high beam was in the trees.  I brought the low beam down to a point that is a little higher than it should be and just used the low beam for all my driving.  Hopefully Zero will rethink the layout of the LED's to get rid of the dark spot.

Another update on the repair/replacement of my SR/F.  The motorcycle is on the move.  It was picked up at the dealer last week and I guess is heading back to the factory.  I can ping the bike with the app and it shows the bike's location which is now on the New Mexico border headed West.  Not a word from Zero about what they are going to do with the bike and if they are going to return it or replace it.  It's been a long time since the breakdown and I hope this can be resolved soon.  Maybe I can get it back by Christmas.  Already cost me the fall riding season which is really nice here in central Florida.  This is strictly Zero's fault as my dealer has been tearing his hair out about the delays and trying to help but runs into dead ends.