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 Has anyone ever had this issue?
I bought a 2015 fx used last summer. Currently has about 1k miles. It has always worked perfectly until a few days ago I turned it on to take a quick ride and all 12v features were dark but the bike drove normally. Did some searching and found the hidden high voltage fuses for the mbb and the dc/dc converter. MBB fuse fine DC/DC fuse was bad. Next morning went out to get a new fuse, replaced it with both batteries removed, put batteries back in and nothing. No signs of life whatsoever when the key id switched on or if the charge cable is plugged in. Checked both fuses again and they are both fine. Tried removing the dc/dc fuse, tried unplugging the dc/dc altogether, removed mbb and reinstalled, the mbb does have pack voltage and ground on the correct pins at the harness and it gets 11.8v at the harness when the key is switched on still nothing.
I called zero and they said to bring it to a dealer which is 4hrs away.

Everything points to a bad mbb but not sure why or how that would happen. If anyone has any ideas or recommendations before I order a new mbb I would appreciate it. I'm going to test the dc/dc today to see if it is operating properly.
Thx, Tommy.

1st Post on here.

I Recently picked up a 2010 zero s with 320 miles on it for a reasonable price. The bike was always kept on a charger and barely used obviously. It ran fine but even with a fully charged and balanced pack the voltage would sag pretty bad after a 3 mile ride at 45mph. I was able to get around 20 miles of range out of it but any sustained speed over 40 mph would have the gas gauge flashing empty at me. The motor controller would groan from low volts any time I would go full throttle for more than a few seconds. They seemed to be taken care of as zero directed but were just old I guess? From dead to fully charged they bike would pull 2.85 kwh from the wall according to my kill-a watt

After researching on here and some other forums I decided to by 7 Nissan leaf cells from Nick at hybrid auto center who was very helpful. I would have liked to put more than 7. 11 would fit but it would be quite snug and would require breaking down 4 of them to reconfigure so I could still use the zero bms.

When I removed the old pack and tested the cell banks I was expecting to see some that were lower but on the fully charged pack they were all within 4mv of each other. 58v total. I wired everything up with the bikes bms wires to the new leaf cells,and charged the new battery on the bench with the battery box still open. The were all stored at 30% charge 3.75v if I remember correctly. Charged up to 58.

I re installed the pack yesterday and installed a cycle analyst at the same time.

I've only taken one test ride so far but it drives so much better. No controller groan so far.