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 1 
 on: Today at 12:20:41 AM 
Started by zeronimbus - Last post by zeronimbus
Good morning,
as I said some time ago, I change all the elements of the transmission: pinion, crown, belt.
I succeeded but not without difficulty... :evil:
the crown, the belt, this can be done with your eyes closed, be careful the crown screws are also mounted with loctite.
on the other hand the pinion, it is mega stuck, its retaining screw also, at the beginning, I wanted to try to loosen it, but it is impossible, without blocking the pinion which turns, it would even take two people.
I marked the imprint of the screw so much that I had no other choice than to drill the screw head to remove its retaining washer. :evil:
to extract this screw, it will be necessary to drill, place a screw extractor, and heat with a blowtorch (the release temperature of the loctite is a little over 100°C, and so much the better).
for the pulley, I had an extractor which worked well, the same, you have to heat it well, it works quite well.
just be careful not to heat it too much, I used a laser thermometer to help me.
it was armored with loctite on all floors, there was no risk of it moving.
I still noticed that the old pulley does not have the same reference as the new one, I was not able to mount my extractor in the screws of the old pulley, whereas in the new one, it was good , visually, they seem identical...
the ordered reference 30-08210 and the received reference 30-08403.
well I imagine that it's not a coincidence that zero changed the reference, and that I find myself with a piece of shit that destroys all my belts fitted and correctly, I hope that's it :cry:
I'll give you some images of the site, I struggled, but like every time, with the right tools and a lot of thought, we get there (well I probably drank 15 coffees this morning, and smoked 30 cigarettes)
everything was reassembled with red loctite, I tightened the holding screw as hard as I could with my DIY filter wrench, it held pretty well, with an old piece of belt...






 2 
 on: June 02, 2024, 07:25:43 PM 
Started by socalmoto91 - Last post by Fran K
It is kind of puzling wondering how the business model works.  Look at Tesla and their stock that may never pay a dividend as the CEO wants so much $ a dividend seems an unrealistic expectation.  I have noticed that Solatrac removed their largest tractor, an orchard model.  That seemed to kind of go with start in California and distribute from there business model for Energica.

What is the politics of the electric road racing fim version.  Why did they go to a different maker of all the same instead of letting Damon and any others compete with some production based rules?  Or some more experimental in nature rules.  Was the fear Honda would play?

Energica sure has changed this site as when I joined it was pretty much a Zero support group.  I do wonder what Energica has on the drawing board so to say.  I really like my KTM but no one else here has one and will discuss it.  Pretty much the same on ktmtalk.com.  Royal Enfield which is an Indian outfit now has bought a piece of Stark electdric motorcycles so something like that may happen.

 3 
 on: June 02, 2024, 06:47:16 PM 
Started by PaulZero - Last post by Richard230
Speaking of drive belts, even if you don't buy a spare, it might be a good idea to at least get the Gates (?) part number for the belt should Zero move on to a different belt in the future. When BMW stopped building their belt-driven F800GT/ST series of motorcycles, the ($500+) Conti belts that they were supplying shortly became collector items and soon became unavailable outside of Europe. Then the scammers moved in and took advantage of people begging for a source of a replacement belt. They would (and are) offering a belt for sale via various methods and once they receive the person's money, the belt never arrives. As always, be careful when ordering something from a private party.

 4 
 on: June 02, 2024, 12:59:53 PM 
Started by PaulZero - Last post by Curt
Gen3 Zeros don't require anything complex at all - you just need to unclip the brake light wire and undo the mudguard and undo the adjuster bolts (actually not sure undoing the adjuster bolts will do anything in this situation as you won't be undoing the axle nut). Tools required is a torx t-bar. The belt can then just be looped on without loosening or removing anything else... provided you can spin the wheel freely. It's a bit more of a faff if you're by the side of the road without a centrestand or paddock stand handy - you'll need an assistant to wheel the bike forward.

That gets you home, and then you can faff about undoing the axle and properly adjusting the tension and doing everything up with a torque wrench.

Wow, that's easy all right. It was hard to picture how it could be done, until seeing a video:

 5 
 on: June 02, 2024, 09:13:57 AM 
Started by Zelidar - Last post by zeronimbus
thank you, I will tighten it moderately, with a little loctite.

 6 
 on: June 02, 2024, 05:54:25 AM 
Started by Specter - Last post by Specter
WHY?
you have full control of your regen by how much you let off your throttle already.  Turn your regen to max and then use your throttle lever to control how much of it actually kicks in.   Otherwise, imo, it's just reinventing the wheel and another input to have to manage.

Aaron

 7 
 on: June 02, 2024, 02:01:32 AM 
Started by FlyMig - Last post by toothless
accept that shifting things to lift the seat and adjusting the load after charging is a bit of a nuisance.

I've got a huge bag from rhinowalk on mine, and the shifting is definitely annoying and you just gotta accept it is definitely true. I can unclip the bag though so at least it's pretty easy to do that.


 8 
 on: June 02, 2024, 01:55:33 AM 
Started by Specter - Last post by toothless
Hello,

I plan on possibly making a regen lever for my Eva. In that case, the throttle signal will be run through a microcontroller first and be mixed with the regen lever, to create any output I want.
Even without the regen lever, it is of course possible to use a microcontroller in between the throttle and the bike to implement any mapping you want.

best regards
DerKrawallkeks


Yes it should work use a quadrilateral shift circuit followed by a flip/flop coupled to a Schmidt trigger on the output.

I know everyone finds this funny but seriously though, any way we can get a regen lever? Would energica themselves ever do it for the people?  :'(

 9 
 on: June 02, 2024, 01:10:16 AM 
Started by MrMogensen - Last post by Stonewolf
Haha, actually one of the things do and don't miss is my VFR trying to roast me alive, it was nice in winter but in summer trying to thread through completely jammed traffic on the way home from a tour ...

 10 
 on: June 01, 2024, 11:24:58 PM 
Started by MrMogensen - Last post by Specter
Ive ridden in numerous rides with groups of individuals.  Mostly Harleys, but anyways.  when we get into heavier traffic, or even a long light, there is always at least one of them, pulling off to the side because their bike is overheating, turning the thing off, they are sweating like pigs, (which I find very amusing because I always ride fully geared up and am not sweating much at all TBH), the hogs on the  back of their hogs are bitching because they are so hot from the air being blown up by the bike, etc etc :D :D

I have a little USB powered fan, I suction cup it to the windshield and plug it in the USB port and leave it running.  I just smile and say, you want to borrow this?  I don't need it, my bike runs cool.  Then there are the ones where the bike is bouncing and jumping and jittering all over the place like a dildo on overdrive, I just don't get that.  WHAT is appealing about that?  I can't think of anyone who enjoys being bounced all over the place.  Now throw radiator heat and exhaust fumes on top of that...along with loud obnoxious pipes and scratchy music being run thru shitty speakers because they got torn up by being bounced around so much.  E bikes practically can sell themselves.

Aaron

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