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Front Sprocket Change / Eva Ribelle RS MY22

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jotjotde:
This post is about how I changed the front sprocket of my Ribelle. Most of this information was already posted somewhere, but it's hard to find, so I wanted to get all the relevant infos summarized in one go.

Looking at the number of teeth in front and the back, the front sprocket turn nearly three times more often than the back, so it is logically that it wears down much quicker.
In my case the sprocket was changed at 22,000 km and I did it now at 37,000 km because it already was visibly worn. It propably would have been good for another few thousand km, but then the chain would have been toast as well.

Sprocket Types
The originally mounted sprocket was a PBR 2078. For a Ribelle RS it needs to come with 15 teeth, for non-RS it's 16 teeth.
Alternatives are AFAM 61801 and JT Sprockets JTF704.
This time I chose a rubber cushioned one made by Esjot, a German manufacturer, but a similar one is apparently offered by JT as well.
Those sprockets are the same for a Aprilia 1100 Tuono, in case you want to look for yourself. Cost are about 20 - 40 €.

What To Buy
I decided to renew everything and bought the stuff via ebay.
The sprocket is fixed with a special shaft nut made by Swedish company SKM. The type is a KM5. Cost were 9 €.
A star-shaped locking washer is fixing the nut. The manufacturer recommends to change this every time together with the sprocket. Cost were around 1 €.
For installation, you need a special nut. I got mine for 17 €.

What Else You Should Know
I will spare you the gruesome details. All in all it took me 2 hours including cleaning (good opportunity to remove all the greasy dirt from that place) and re-aligning the chain after the job is done. The latter was necessary because the old sprocket was already worn.
I did not took out the back wheel, just drew out the axle after getting the brake caliper to the side. When the chain adjustor blocks are removed, the wheel can be pushed forward enough to allow the chain to be loose enough that the sprocket can be got out.
For removing and reinstalling the shaft nut I blocked the wheel with a 50 mm diameter steel pipe which I had cladded with duct tape to protect the paint on the wheel from being scratched.
Note that the shaft nut is asymmetrical. The chamfered side must point to the gear side.

Tightening torque for the shaft nut is a whopping 190 Nm. As far as I know, the same as for a Panigale V4.

So better be prepared! Take care that the bike is well fixed. If you are a 60 kg person you might better look for an additional lever for the torque wrench. You maybe are better off if an additional person holds the bike while you apply that torque.
Energica recommends to use green Locktite (high strength) for installation. Interestingly I found no traces of it when I removed the old screw. Nevertheless I used it now.
After tightening the nut, look which one of the 'wings' of the star-shaped locking washer is suited to be bend into one of the four grooves of the KM5 nut and bend it down into it using a small screwdriver and some light tapping with a hammer.

The Result
Now I have a brand new rubber cushioned front sprocket. Is there any difference to a normal sprocket? No.
The noise from the chain on the sprocket even got a tiny bit louder. That might be due to the fact that the chain is already 5,000 km 'old'. I will give it some time to 'settle', otherwise I will change the chain as well.
In the future I will probably renew the sprocket each time together with the chain.

Pard:
Excellent writeup!

Specter:
Quick note:
If you use cheater bars or anything like that on a torque wrench, you change the dynamics and it's reading is no longer accurate.  This goes for using extenders, universal heads or anything of that nature  when using a torque wrench on anything.  Just a friendly reminder.

Aaron

Pard:
Excellent point!

szczur333:
what about rear sprocket type?

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