ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: GeneralSP on May 04, 2020, 07:17:18 PM
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Hi all, today I key on my bike and a have this code: 31 Disconnect charger, Key Off for 2 minutes and then try again. Refer to owner's manual.
What will I do with this?
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From the Owner manual for 2020 SRS:
"31 - Battery Module Ineligible - Disconnect charger. Key Off for 2 minutes and then try again."
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From the Owner manual for 2020 SRS:
"31 - Battery Module Ineligible - Disconnect charger. Key Off for 2 minutes and then try again."
I know, but what will I do with this? which charger?
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By "disconnect charger" I assumed this to mean remove the type 2 charging lead.
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From the Owner manual for 2020 SRS:
"31 - Battery Module Ineligible - Disconnect charger. Key Off for 2 minutes and then try again."
I know, but what will I do with this? which charger?
I believe that they want you to unplug the charging cord from the charging port of the motorcycle, then leave the Key on OFF position for at least 2 minutes.
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Wick up any moisture in the charger port. With the kickstand down, go to the error menu item, record and clear every error you see. Key the bike off and on. If you have a check engine light, look for errors, record and clear them again. If the bike has recently been around water and the errors keep on appearing, you could have an isolation fault that needs time to dry out. Can you get the bike into running mode?
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Wick up any moisture in the charger port. With the kickstand down, go to the error menu item, record and clear every error you see. Key the bike off and on. If you have a check engine light, look for errors, record and clear them again. If the bike has recently been around water and the errors keep on appearing, you could have an isolation fault that needs time to dry out. Can you get the bike into running mode?
I have a code 28 too, The 12v battery is to low. The 12v battery charge when the Bike is running? or all the time?
I saw code 58 too :-[
My charger (charge station) cord is not plugged and my bike don't see water.
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I think the 12V battery charges whenever the main contactor is closed. How familiar are you with Zeros? When you key on, you should hear small relays closing as they bike performs diagnostics and, if safe, the main contactor will close with a louder click. How good a mechanic are you? You might want to follow the directions in the manual to remove the seat and battery cover to check the voltage. If the main contactor is closing, you shouldn't need to charge the 12V battery yourself. If the contactor isn't closing, and the battery voltage is close to 10V, and you have a 12V Li-Ion battery charger or equivalent, and an appreciation for everything that can go wrong charging batteries, you might want to TAKE THE 12V BATTERY OUT OF THE BIKE and charge it to at least 12V. The battery will have to be charged if you want to continue diagnostics while waiting for the bike to dry out if the initial problem was an moisture induced isolation fault. If this is getting overwhelming, you'll need to make arrangements to get the bike to the dealer. Warning, it might sit there for a while.
I don't know everything that will drain the 12V battery, but the cellular connection certainly does. There is a battery heater, and it's unclear to me if this operates in cold temperature with the bike off.
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I think the 12V battery charges whenever the main contactor is closed. How familiar are you with Zeros? When you key on, you should hear small relays closing as they bike performs diagnostics and, if safe, the main contactor will close with a louder click. How good a mechanic are you? You might want to follow the directions in the manual to remove the seat and battery cover to check the voltage. If the main contactor is closing, you shouldn't need to charge the 12V battery yourself. If the contactor isn't closing, and the battery voltage is close to 10V, and you have a 12V Li-Ion battery charger or equivalent, and an appreciation for everything that can go wrong charging batteries, you might want to TAKE THE 12V BATTERY OUT OF THE BIKE and charge it to at least 12V. The battery will have to be charged if you want to continue diagnostics while waiting for the bike to dry out if the initial problem was an moisture induced isolation fault. If this is getting overwhelming, you'll need to make arrangements to get the bike to the dealer. Warning, it might sit there for a while.
I don't know everything that will drain the 12V battery, but the cellular connection certainly does. There is a battery heater, and it's unclear to me if this operates in cold temperature with the bike off.
Thanks for your answer, I check the 12v Battery and it is good, 13.4v. All fuses is ok. The red battery light is on.
Yes I'm good with mechanic no problem. I can follow the instructions.
I don't hear the sound click when I start the bike, the engine light stay on. I see some time Code 58, 28, 31 now. When I clear codes, turn off and on the bike, code 31 come back every time.
My bike is not wet, inside to my garage.
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It's sounding more and more like you need to start making arrangements to transport the bike and contact your dealer. In case someone else has a similar experience, do you have a standard or premium SR/S and does it have the storage, charging, or power tank? If practical, if it's sunny, you might roll the bike outside and try to let both sides of the battery soak in the sun. Maybe the change in environment will convince the electronics to power up the DC to DC converter.
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It's sounding more and more like you need to start making arrangements to transport the bike and contact your dealer. In case someone else has a similar experience, do you have a standard or premium SR/S and does it have the storage, charging, or power tank? If practical, if it's sunny, you might roll the bike outside and try to let both sides of the battery soak in the sun. Maybe the change in environment will convince the electronics to power up the DC to DC converter.
I have Premium version with out power or charge tank. stuck. If with just humidity environment from my garage cause this problem, it will not be funny if I will drive on the rain.
Where is the DC-DC converter module, which place?
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I'm not sure where the DC to DC converter is housed. If it's the problem, it will be covered under warranty.
The first couple of weeks I had my SR/S, I rode it in nearly daily rainstorms without a problem, just as I did previously with my SR. I never had a problem with the SR, even after it was parked outside and covered over the holidays in rain. During the coronavirus lockdown, my SR/S developed an isolation fault while parked and covered after a particularly bad rainstorm. Maybe I should have ridden it everyday. It eventually recovered after a few sunny and windy days sitting in the sun and uncovered. Not ideal.
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The DC-DC converter is in the tank area around the bin (I can't recall whether it's on the right side or forward of the bin).
The 12V battery charges while riding, AND it charges intermittently while parked, but on what schedule, I could not tell you. I just know that to work on the SRF/SRS, you need to not only key the bike off but remove B+ and B- fuses because of this feature.
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Did this happen to you after riding in rain? Anyway I think you might have the same issues as I have and a few others with their SR/F. Check this topic https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=9668.0
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Did this happen to you after riding in rain? Anyway I think you might have the same issues as I have and a few others with their SR/F. Check this topic https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=9668.0
I never ride in rain, my bike is new 144k. Crap, I think the SR/F an S is very bad, I regret my SR :(
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I have a six year old S that I ride in the rain and only has a tarp (and a tiny radiant heater) to keep it dry in the winter.
It's probably just a really unlikely fault in your particular model. New model lines always have a few things they don't anticipate and there's always that odd new bike where something went wrong early. This is true of all electronics.
Good luck at getting your bike fixed! Hopefully it doesn't take long.
-Crissa
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Guys, I have a little update, yesterday I trie again to turn ON my bike and surprise! All works! I cleared all codes and he not com back. I hear the contactor now.
Same thing for today, the bike come back to the life. I'm affraid to take a long ride, may be is a intermitent probleme and it is possible to come back.
I trie to make the firmware update but is seam to not work. I see only the updade circle turn with out result.
What do you thing?
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I think your bike and mine caught coronavirus and hopefully now have COVID-19 antibodies. Seriously, though, my bike has been running like nothing happened since it "dried out". Go on longer and longer rides until you feel confident in it again. If you have the time, download the logs and see if they captured the event. Your dealer or Zero might want to see them. I haven't been able to get the firmware update to work either. I read this isn't unusual, and one day it will suddenly work. Maybe that's something else your dealer can look at if they're open for repairs. Previously, it was sounding like your bike wasn't suffering from isolation faults, but the fact that now it's working suggests otherwise. You mentioned something about high humidity in your garage. If you think that might be related, is there anything you can do to mitigate the humidity. Riding often on warm days might help, but that's speculation. I hope you and I avoid what we've read about other bikes that needed to have the high voltage wiring replaced. Personally, I'm not happy with the way the charging port collects water.
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Guys, I have a little update, yesterday I trie again to turn ON my bike and surprise! All works! I cleared all codes and he not com back. I hear the contactor now.
Same thing for today, the bike come back to the life. I'm affraid to take a long ride, may be is a intermitent probleme and it is possible to come back.
I trie to make the firmware update but is seam to not work. I see only the updade circle turn with out result.
What do you thing?
Glad to see it working again. Sometime this spring, I will take my SR/F apart and make sure all the wire contacts have a good coating of Di-electric grease.
As for the update issue, I am guessing you are trying to update via an android phone over bluetooth. This is a known issue for a while. The guy who works on the android app needs to be slapped around a little so he fixes all the bugs.. If you have access to a iPhone, it seems to work much better using that (that developer should be given a cookie). I have successfully updated to Ver 17 using my work iPhone.
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Finally, I updated the firmware successfully, ( 15 to 17) The Zero support guy said to me, you need to register to enable and make it.
Curously, in the dashboard, the firmware version is the same 6v26 if I'm correct, but with the Android the version is 17 now.
About log, I sent to the Zero Support. I hope the parsing WebSite will can read the SRF and S in the future.
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6v26 is the dash firmware version. The app shows the Main Bike Board and Battery Management System firmware version. Glad you got it figured out!
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I'm glad it's working again.
I'm also not a huge fan of the way the charging inlet area deals with water and dirt (there's a drain hole but it's small so the whole area deserves an occasional contact cleaning for the pins and a wipe down around the port for dirt or leaves or whatever).
I do think taking the tank off and having a look at the DC-DC converter connector would be wise. Maybe there's not enough electrical insulating grease, or maybe the grease got displaced somehow.
For reference, ASI Compound 70 is the grease I've heard recommended from various people and by all accounts appears to be what Zero applies at the factory. I have no confirmation whether dealers are instructed to keep or how to use this grease, but I do know that the affected area needs to be really cleaned and dried properly before applying to avoid trapping the problematic dirt on the contacts by the grease.