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Topics - DesignerDan

Pages: [1] 2
1
Buy Sell Trade / Screw Tray Organizer for Zero Motorcycles SR/S 2021
« on: January 13, 2024, 12:01:23 AM »
I made these 3D printed trays to make working on the bike easier. It helps keep the screws organized and prevents them from rolling away

https://www.ebay.com/itm/276280606617?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=q7Bscj6JRti&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=q7Bscj6JRti&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

3
https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2013-Zero+Motorcycles-ZERO-S-5016317893

I am the original owner. I bought the bike in 2013. I put 40k miles on the bike and then in 2015 the bike got shipped back to California and got a new MY15 12.5kWh battery put in it as part of the battery upgrade program. Since then I put another 40k miles on the bike. The bike has been garage kept it's whole life. I followed Zero's battery guidelines exactly and babied it but despite this, the bikes range is only about 50 miles per charge around the city due to battery degradation. Zero said that updating the firmware might improve the range due to improvements in the battery management algorithms. The last time the firmware was updated was in 2015 when the bike was getting its new battery. The bike is completely stock other than heated grips and pained front forks. The bike is in good condition and has no error codes. The tires are almost new.

4
Buy Sell Trade / WTB stock charger OR delta Q for 2014+ S/SR/DS
« on: June 16, 2019, 01:11:57 AM »
The onboard charger for my 2015 SR failed and need a replacement. I am looking for a used stock one or even a used delta q quick charger to get my bike working again.

Thanks

5
I hate keys so I made this keyless system for my 2013 Zero S. You just have to have the proximity fob on your person and you can start up the bike or get into the storage compartment with just a press of a button.


6
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Tire pressure discrepancy
« on: November 19, 2014, 11:43:42 PM »
I noticed the tire inflation pressure that’s stated on the frame of my 2013 Zero S is as follows:
Front: 32 psi
Rear: 35 psi

However, in the owners manual it states that tire pressure for the 2013 Zero S is:
Front: 30 psi
Rear: 30 psi

Which one is the correct inflation pressure? The one stated in the owners manual or the one that’s on the frame of the bike?


I tried contacting Zero but I haven't gotten a reply yet.

7
Every piece of external light (minus the taillight) I made myself using Cree LED emitters.
A few additional features that aren't shown in the video are:

When the brake light comes on the turn signals illuminate to 100%.

 If you use the turn singal while braking the turn signal goes back and forth between 100% and 120%; just enough to notice it's signaling while braking.

The amber lights turn off automatically when it's bright outside to conserve power.

The headlight also transissions from night mode (low beams) to day mode (only high beam).


8
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Front bearing failure at 24,500 miles
« on: September 14, 2014, 07:16:39 AM »
My front left wheel bearing failed today with my girlfriend and I on the bike. We are okay. We had plenty of warning and had time to pull over before the whobbling got bad.

I will call Zero on Monday. I'm hoping they can just sent me the parts and I can be up and running again ASAP as the Zero is my only form of transportation as of right now.

Considering my bike has 24,500 miles on it, it's not that big of a deal that the bearing failed.

9
This kit has a really good number of tools to repair a flat tire on the fly! I now always have it under the seat and I have a 5mm allen wrench in the front storage compartment to take the seat off. $30 is cheap for peace of mind!

http://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Tire-Tube-Repair-YP-881TR/dp/B001KNYOPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405911881&sr=8-1&keywords=bikemaster+tire+and+tube+repair+kit

Also up for discussion: What other tools do you have on the bike at all times?

For me, none; but I'm going to put together a toolkit for the bike in the near future!

10
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / 20,000 MILEstone
« on: June 26, 2014, 09:54:45 AM »


After over a year of owning my 2013 Zero S, I hit the 20,000 mile mark. I want to give a "year review" of the bike but I want to keep it short so I will just list the pros and cons.

Things I like:

Reliability -When I flip the key switch, it's nice to know that the Zero will most likely start up
Longevity -Only brake pads and tires needed replacing so far
Comfort -The ladies all love the Zero because the rider and passenger riding positions are very comfortable
Quietness -I can take the Zero where gas bikes can't go because they are too loud and obnoxious
Zero emissions -This comes into play when you want to bring the Zero inside of a building.
Torque at any RPM
No shifting
No clutch
Instant throttle response -Makes throttle cables seem primitive
Tunability - Via the mobile app
BELT DRIVE - I never want a chain again. The Zero's belt drive has shown me the light
Storage compartment - I use it every single day. My life would suck without it

Things I don't like:

Lack of a goddamn reverse! - As a guy that lives in Florida, I like to park the Zero in shade whenever I can. This usually means driving on grass to park under a tree. It is such a pain in the ass to back up the Zero in grass. Sometimes I can't do it and it's really frustrating because adding a reverse is as easy as adding an electrical switch. It's a key advantage to electrics and to see Zero not exploiting this makes me really sad.
Lack of fairing - would help with range and riding comfort

Well those were my main complaints.

Hope this was helpful.

12
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / My LED headlight design
« on: February 03, 2014, 04:33:59 AM »
I honestly can't stand halogen bulbs. They have ugly (IMO) light color, poor lifespan, and not energy efficient. I tried a xenon bulb with a projector housing and although it offers some key advantages over halogen (longer life, better color, less power consumption) I still wanted LED. LED's are even MORE efficient and last longer than xenon. They also have full brightness from the moment power is applied (xenon takes a few seconds to warm up).

From my research I could only find two DOT approved LED headlights for motorcycles. Trucklite and JW Speaker. The trucklite has a terrible beam pattern (blows my mind that it got DOT approved) and JW speaker is $500.

To the drawing board!

I'll make my own LED headlight. My main goal is honestly to have a LEGAL beam pattern.


To make building it easier, with my limited resources, I will be modifying a xenon projector headlight housing instead of designing one from the ground up. A xenon projector housing will be cheap and easy to source. A xenon bulb puts out about 3,000 lumens but at most, only half of this light actually comes out of the lens and is projected onto the road. My idea is to utilize a single, high power, LED in a vertical position. Because of the LED's 125 degree beam angle, the light efficiency will be very high. So 3,000 lumens won't be necessary.

The LED emitter I will be using will be a Cree MK-R http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Arrays-Directional/XLamp-MKR

The MK-R one of the worlds more efficient LED emitters. It produces a max of 1,700 lumens and has a color temperature of 6500k which is as close as it gets to daylight. 1,700 lumens is more than the stock halogen bulb produces so the MK-R is the perfect choice. Also, the MK-R runs off about 11.7 volts so the constant current driver I will need to run the LED will be working at a very high efficiency because it's power source will be my bike's 12 volt circuit.

Attached is a diagram of a standard xenon projector on left and my modified projector on the right.


So basically I'm retrofitting a xenon retrofit kit. RETRO-CEPTION

The process is fairly straight forward. Add a heat sink to the reflector bowl (of the aftermarket projector) and bolt the LED emitter to it. Be sure to use thermal paste and position the emitter AT THE FOCAL POINT inside the reflector bowl.


I tested it to make sure it was positioned properly and that the heat sink was suffecient to dissipate the heat. The MK-R is incredibly efficient so it doesn't produce much heat.



Look at that perfectly (kind of) positioned emitter:



Don't forget the constant current driver:



To get the projector retrofit kit inside of the stock Zero headlight you will need to remove the polycarbonate cover. A heat gun does the trick of reactivating the sealant allowing you to pull the assembly apart.

Some modifications to the stock headlight reflector dish are needed to fit the retrofitted retrofit projector. (the reflector dish was spray painted black during an early project of mine so that's why it is black in these pictures)



Reinstall the glare shield:


Put the lens back on the retrofit projector and then put that whole assembly back into the stock headlight housing. The yellow ring around the lens is called a COB (chip on board) LED ring. It's insanely bright and crazy efficient. Not only does it look cool but this will be my daytime-running-light as required by Florida state law. The projector headlight has such a sharp cut off that during the day it's hard to even tell whether or not it's on (if viewing from above the cut off point) So the LED ring is a good addition.


The retrofit project was too big to fit so I had to cut a hole into the polycarbonate headlight cover (I cut the hole bigger than needed so the projector can be adjusted up and down when I'm aiming the beam):


Since the clear cover can no longer be returned to its original state anyway, I spray painted the inside of it black to make it look more aesthetically pleasing. Tonight when it gets dark I will aim the beam and then seal around the gap between with two parts with black silicon:



Installed on the bike:



IMO the blacked out cover looks a lot better than seeing the ugly chrome reflector dish.

COB LED ring (told you it was bright):



LED projector turned on (COB LED ring turned off)



COB LED ring from far away:



Beam pattern of LED projector:



Not too bad if you ask me. Pull your Zero up to a big wall and see that the stock halogen bulb/reflector housing produces a mediocre beam pattern. My LED headlight has a sharper cut off and better light distribution. The lines/rings you see in my beam pattern are because of the cheap retrofit reflector bowl. I got the retrofit kit for $20 so I'm honestly not surprised it wasn't a perfect ellipse.  Buying a better quality retrofit kit would improve the beam pattern even more.

I think it's safe to say that my idea to use a small LED emitter (pointed upright) inside of an elliptical reflector dish worked pretty well.

I hope this idea will provide you guys with a cheap and effective way of implementing LED technology into your headlights.

14
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Let's talk tires
« on: November 20, 2013, 04:34:53 AM »
My Zero S is currently at 9,500 miles and the rear tire was passed the point of needing to be changed so I swapped the rear tire last night with a Bridgestone Battlax 130/70 17 inch. The Bridgestone tire has a larger crown radius than the stock Road winner so the tire contacts more of the road.

I'm noticing a decrease in range with this new tire; probably due to increase in rolling resistance. (the bridgestone is also a tad heavier)

I've also noticed a pretty significant increase in traction. I practiced flooring it on wet pavement and was shocked (pun intended) that it didn't slip once! The Road winner would slip pretty consistently on wet pavement if you gave it too much gas... I mean... electrons.

If I get good life out of this tire I will be pleased with it even though it's not as efficient.

So when selecting a tire you're basically choosing between efficiency or traction. Choose wisely.

Has anyone else changed the tires on their 2013 Zeros?

15
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Changing the front sprocket?
« on: August 10, 2013, 10:31:31 AM »
Does anyone know the proper way of changing the front sprocket?

I tried taking the left swing arm bolt out but I couldn't get a 24 mm wrench on that inside nut. Even if I got a wrench in there, there still isn't enough clearance for the old sprocket to slide off of the shaft. I ended up taking off the four motor bolts on the right side of the bike (the ones with the nuts that jam the motor into place) then reinstalling the bolts and loosening the left motor bolts so the whole motor would slide as far right as possible. I was able to get the left swing arm bolt off with the motor slid over.

Before I proceed I was just wondering if this is the correct method for doing this? I searched the forum and found that with the 2012 bikes it was necessary to take the whole motor out. The 2013 motor is much bigger and it won't just drop out of the bottom unless bottom of the bike is taken off. (the black charger guard for lack of a better word) But then I would have no way of jacking up the bike. (I'm using a center jack)

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