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Messages - grmarks

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1
The 2014 Zeros had a battery replacement program as the batteries caught fire on some bikes.
I currently have a 2015 SR with some sort of problem. I thought it was the battery as it cuts power after a couple of minutes at 100km/h limiting me to just 80 km/h. It is worse in cold weather (15 degrees C) and almost non existent in hot weather (30 degrees C).  If you stop at lights you can get 30 more seconds at 100 km/h before it cuts power. It reduces the power slowly, 99, 98, 97, 96 etc. km/h
To me, it seemed like a module was not keeping up with the rest so the BMS cut back power. A voltage drop, or something. But someone suggested that it could be a temp sensor in the battery pack.
When I first turn the bike on the dash will show EEE for a couple of seconds at the end of the start up cycle. If I turn it off and on again it doesn't show the second time. If I let it sit for a bit and turn it on it will show again. My guess was that one module had a bit lower voltage and once keyed on the other modules "charged" it up and the error disapears.

Has anyone had any similar symptoms?
 

2
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Dead Zero For Sale
« on: October 10, 2022, 08:51:34 AM »
So much for 546,000 km (2015 SR) from the battery as specified on stats sheet. Yours would be more.

3
I don't seem able to post a new topic in this forum (been a member for a long time)
My 2015 SR had a main bike board fail, after the local dealer went bust and then Zero pulled out of Australia, got it fixed by email (he would email me instructions of what to test and I would email the results, just using a multimeter) with a tech from the US under warranty.
Now after 7 years and only 54,000 km the battery seems to be failing, top speed is about 100 km/h but only on 100% SOC and only for the first 30 seconds then it slows down slowly until it hits 90 km/h. Outside temp of about 10 C (about 50 F)
At 70% SOC it can only maintain 79 km/h. Almost unrideable.
On a day of, say 25 C, it can maintain over 100 km/h  (or it did when it was summer)
When it's been sitting for a while and I turn it on I get EEE on the display for about 1 second.
My guess is one module falls below voltage compared to the others but once the contactors join them all together the higher voltage ones bring up the lower voltage one and the error disappears. The BMS is detecting the weak cell/s and limiting power.
The odd thing is it can accurate as fast as ever up to the max speed as outlined above with the gauge showing full torque and power to that point then you can see, and feel, the BMS cut the power.

4
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: SR/F LED headlight, good, bad or ugly?
« on: September 13, 2019, 07:52:52 PM »
Hi, I don't know why you need to replace the headlight but you can replace the bulb by a LED light bulb.
I found the LED bulb I bought good on low beam but shit on high beam. The HID bulb I have was really good on low beam and absolutely unreal on high beam, it would light up the road all around you. I would rate it as being able to see 4 time as far into the distance over the LED bulb. Great for country riding at night. But with the stuffed reflector that doesn't happen anymore.

5
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: SR/F LED headlight, good, bad or ugly?
« on: September 13, 2019, 07:41:31 PM »
Hi, I don't know why you need to replace the headlight but you can replace the bulb by a LED light bulb.
I have a HID bulb in mine and it came out and melted its holder putting black soot all over the reflector. Can't seem to get it off without scratching the reflector surface. Now the advantage of the HID bulb is gone.
Its held in with cable ties now.

6
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / SR/F LED headlight, good, bad or ugly?
« on: September 13, 2019, 02:12:31 PM »
SR/F owners, what is the LED headlight like? Is it excellent, good, or so so? I need to replace my 2015 SR headlight and was thinking about using the SR/F headlight instead (if it's really good).

7
I think the reason is because Zero is still using the same battery architecture as in other models but in a new case which allows better heat dissipation. If that's true then they suffer from the same issue of the pack voltage being too low for all but a few DCFC that actually follow the full spec.

In addition 12kW onboard charging is cool but almost no public chargers support that.  And it's unlikely that many public 12kW stations will get built since the direction of infrastructure is DCFC over high power AC.... rightfully so.

Wrong decision in my book. Without DCFC it's hard to justify the SR/F premium over the SR unless you are going to a track.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

An article I saw said that the 12kw charging is done from 2 J1772 plugs, one for the 6 kw on board and one for the 6 kw charge tank.

8
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Zero SR/F
« on: March 06, 2019, 11:26:52 AM »
What charge rate will you get if you install a 220v charge station and have a premium 6kW charger plus 6kW charge tank?

One report said you need 2 J1772 plugs to get the 12 kw/h charge rate (one plug for onboard 6 kw/h and one plug for power tank 6 kw/h), this seems reasonable as most J1772 are about 6 kw/h.

9
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Zero SR/F
« on: March 02, 2019, 08:44:04 AM »
There are a lot of owners with a rear rack, so I would expect they catered for one in the design. It would be very silly if they didn't.

10
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Zero SR/F
« on: February 28, 2019, 05:01:56 AM »
It would also be possible to have a box to convert DC charge current to 240V AC then run it into the onboard chargers and a bigger charge tank charger. Not as efficient though or cost-effective but possible. The whole setup would just be a DC charge tank in one unit.

11
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Zero SR/F
« on: February 27, 2019, 08:22:21 PM »
I have seen someone here storing a spare belt that could be put in place without opening the arm when you need it. But you need to preposition the belt around the arm, and store it there/

The SR/F is so different from previous models you can't draw comparisons.

12
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Zero SR/F
« on: February 27, 2019, 08:20:45 PM »
Basically the SR/F is simply an upgraded SR. Some nice upgraded components, and the price is in line with them & reasonable, but I'm not sure there's justification to call it a new platform so far.

The new bikes do have a 1000lbs GVWR compared to ~780 for the SR, but the curb weight is also much higher (I don't immediately see why -- it's 71lbs).
500lbs payload should be enough for  a 1-up tourer/sport-tourer with fairing & full luggage set but not for 2-up (a BEV tourer/sports-tourer will need extra batteries, for a total of >24kWh IMO), but I didn't see any mention of that in Zero's PR.

The most disappointing for me is the lack of any battery system update (higher voltage and active cooling). Even my 2-stroke 150cc Vespa had forced-air cooling (-:

Since I'm sure Zero can't afford to do from-scratch model development every year, I'm afraid this means no actual sporty models or touring/sport-touring models in the next few years.

The consequence of  no CCS support is also bad, IMO -- it's necessary for long-distance trips; while the US CCS charger network isn't as common in the US as it is in Europe yet, this is changing quickly. 6kW AC is of course fine for home charging for daily commutes, but even the 12kW AC of the Premium model isn't anywhere near enough to regain miles used up in 75mph motorway travel at a reasonable rate. An hour's charging will give you 70mi according to Zero's own numbers on the SR/F.

As I've written a few times in the past, a nice day ride for me means:
1)  100mi of motorway @ 70-75mph simply to reach the backroads,
2)  150-200mi of backroads in locations with no charging
3) Another 100mi of motorway to get back home.

3 charging sessions on that day ride (two 30min top-up sessions + a 60min one at lunch) is about the limit, in terms of time that can be spent charging.
That requires supporting an Energica-level 20kW at two of the stops.

If all someone wants to do is commute, an e-motorcycle is overkill.
I really don't get what H-D was blathering about in "reaching the young demographic who want urban transport" in the same PR that explained the Livewire.

For urban transport, if you're willing to consider non-enclosed and two-wheeled transport, a $1500 e-bicycle is all that needed. The real savings aren't just the purchase price, but the negligible upkeep. If there are no bike paths, or for longer suburban distances, electric scooters (Vespa type, not the tiny-wheeled stand-up abominations) are fine, and don't require the expensive frame & suspension or performance-oriented drivetrain of a motorcycle.

IOW, I think the market for e-motorcycles suitable for commuting only -- which is all Zeros are capable of at this point, the FX or expensive DIY user customization aside -- is very small, and I'm starting to think Zero doesn't get it.

Zero has outlasted all the other companies, they are the ones that get it the most. I use my SR for commuting and all round trips under 160 km in the suburbs.
I owned a scooter and I sold it to get the Zero because I never rode the scooter father than what a Zero can travel, Infact I have taken the Zero on loger trips than I did on the scooter.

13
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Zero SR/F
« on: February 27, 2019, 08:14:59 PM »
Unless they have made a change from previous models, there is no way for a one piece belt to be changed without removing the swing arm
I believe that it would have to be a single sided swing arm like some of the sport bikes have. If the shaft of the motor is forward of the swing arm
then the belt has to go over it.

But hey have changed everything to do with the frame. The swing arm has bearings at least 8cm on the inner diameter, and the front drive pulley seems to be on the outside of the swing arm, not the inside like previous models. It looks like the swing arm is mounted to the motor, not the frame. The motor is a stressed member, so where is the stress coming from? I reckon it's from the swing arm through the motor then into the frame.   

The flange on the end of the motor I reckon the swing arm bearing goes around and the drive shaft comes out the center.
Notice how big the hole is in the swing arm pivot point.



14
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Zero SR/F
« on: February 27, 2019, 11:38:03 AM »
So I am wondering, can a drive belt be changed without removing the swing arm?
The specs say it has large swing arm bearings, There is no close-up pic of the drive side of the motor. It could be possible to have the drive shaft go through the swing arm bearing putting the pully on the outside of the swing arm. 
Does anyone know?

I have just discovered that you can rotate the pic on the first page of the site, I can see the drive pully, and it looks like it is on the outside of the swing arm but it is not a clear pic.

15
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Zero SR/F
« on: February 27, 2019, 11:21:26 AM »
I am curious about how fast it will accelerate, as it's only 20% more torque. The 2019 SR has a 5:1 reduction whereas the SR/F has a 4.5:1 reduction which will lower the torque to the back wheel consuming some of that 20% extra. The change in 2017 to 2018 SR was 20% extra torque at the wheel and it was only just noticeable according to those that had ridden both.

The 5:1 reduction is the 75-5 models. 2017-2019 SR all use 4.5:1 gearing, as does the SR/F.

2016 => 2017 gained 9% more torque at the motor and 4% more torque due to the higher gearing, so ~13% total.

hmmm you are correct, it's 4.5:1, I must be getting old!

2015 SR has 132/30 that's about 4.4:1

So that means an extra 30% more torque at the wheel and more than 43% more than my 2015 SR

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