ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Jigglypuff on September 11, 2019, 11:40:16 PM
-
Hi. Been lurking for several weeks after buying a 2013 S. Both this forum and the Unofficial Wiki have been a great resource, and wanted to (slowly) start contributing by documenting some of the mods I've been doing. First up is an option for putting the tank plastics back together for anyone who has a similar need. I had elected to spray the plastics with automotive grade 2K paint and didn't want tape lines by the tank. In my haste I dremel'ed off the plastic rivets without really thinking through how to put it back together. I'm glad to report there is a pretty simple method, as summarized below:
Step 1: Tools needed are 1) towel/soft working surface, 2) tape measure, 3) screwdriver/awl/something to poke 1/4" holes, 4) scissors, 5) cutting blade, and 6) double-sided tape (recommend Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape, 1" wide)
(http://naynella.com/Zero/TankRepair/zeroTankRepair_01.jpg)
Step 2: If you haven't already, clean up the plastic rivet heads so they'll smoothly interface with the plastic clamshells again. Do a dry fit-check before proceeding.
(http://naynella.com/Zero/TankRepair/zeroTankRepair_02.jpg)
Step 3: You will want approximately 1/2" x 24" of the double sided tape. The Scotch stuff referenced previously is 1" wide, so I further cut the strip lengthwise to get two 1/2" strips.
(http://naynella.com/Zero/TankRepair/zeroTankRepair_03.jpg)
Step 4: Clean the plastics thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol or soap/water. Place the tape along the ridge on the plastic. You'll have to do a little trimming near the (as shown in this image) left-most lip so it follows the ridge and make a relief cut near the right-hand-side so it'll make the sharp turn.
(http://naynella.com/Zero/TankRepair/zeroTankRepair_04.jpg)
Step 5: Poke or cut holes where the rivet heads used to go.
(http://naynella.com/Zero/TankRepair/zeroTankRepair_05.jpg)
Step 6: Not really photographed but simply remove the tape liner and firmly press the plastic and center section together for about 30 seconds each side. Due to the thickness of the Scotch tape there is a ~1/8" gap between the plastic and center section, but it's very consistent and rigid. Shown in this image is the gap near the front of the tank. Due to its consistency I actually prefer the look over OEM.
(http://naynella.com/Zero/TankRepair/zeroTankRepair_06.jpg)
Step 7: And this is an image near the backside of the tank. Same size gap, but still very consistent.
(http://naynella.com/Zero/TankRepair/zeroTankRepair_07.jpg)
-
I'm sorry I didn't notice this when you posted it.
May I include your photos on the unofficial manual? (zeromanual.com)
-
Hi, Brian. Yes, please feel free to use these images in the Wiki!
-
That's awesome, thank you and thanks for figuring this out and documenting it well. I might try reproducing it on my DSP tank I de-welded and I think is still sitting around in a parts bin.
-
I have use self tapping screw (don't know if this is the correct name in English) to re-install the center black plastic part.
It can be used on both new or reused center plastic pretty well.
All you need are stainless screws, stainless washer and plastic washer.
The attached photos are using new center plastic, so the plastic rivet heads are longer and need more plastic washer.
If you are using reused center plastic, you only need one plastic washer for each head.
-
Where do you get plastic washers?
-
Where do you get plastic washers?
Not the cheepest but perhaps the easiest......
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-washers
(scroll down on the left to find "Material" & select Plastic)
-
No, not cheap! But certainly closer than I've seen so far.
Thanks!
-
This new procedure page looks pretty tidy to me (with linkback):
https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Tank_Plastics_Repair
I've linked to it from the service manual section:
https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Tank_Plastics