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[CliC]

OK, so I rode my g/f's Kawi EN500 cruiser today to get it inspected and registered. I literally got off my Zero and onto her bike, and immediately I noticed the suspension is much more compliant (and, frankly, the on-road ride nicer) than my DS. (Oh yeah, and I have to SHIFT it

Now, it's a cruiser (and has a big, poofy, cushy seat), and weighs probably 100-150 lbs more than my Zero, so some of that is to be expected. But is this typical? Do others tweak the suspension to give a more comfortable street ride? Is this only a problem on DS models (because the suspension is perhaps a compromise to allow for some dirt riding)? For reference, I'm 165 lbs, and I think the manual says the rear shock preload is set for a 170- or 175-lb rider.

I guess I never really thought about the Zero's ride until I had something to compare it to.

Sorry if these are ridiculous questions, but my Road King had rear air shocks. That's about all the suspension adjustability I've ever had on a bike prior to the Zero.

[ed5000]

I just went through the same thing with my 2010 DS.  In fact, I wrote a thread last month about installing rubber o-rings under the plastic fairing pieces because of the loud rattling noise my bike made when riding down even a mildly rough road.  I then decided to breakout the manual and start playing with the suspension settings and found the adjuster screws all closed off to their minimum settings which gave me minimum suspension movement.  The rear shock the spanner nut was tightened most of the way compressing the spring.  I opened the fork compression dampening screw 3 clicks and loosened the rear shock spanner nut about 1/4" for a whole new ride!  The bike is nicer to ride, handles better and a lot safer to ride but still jittery on rough pavement.  I plan on loosening the fork compression a couple more clicks.  The rear shock is probably about right.  I haven't touched the rebound screws yet.  That comes next (a little at a time).

My guess is the bike came from the factory with suspension screws all closed off and the dealer was supposed to adjust everything.  At least early on for a 2010.

btw: The top of my forks are covered by the handlebars and thus, I can't access the rebound and vent screws and the manual suggests opening the vent after each ride!  I guess the handlebars are coming off soon for adjustment.

[Richard230]

Here are the suspension settings for the 2012 ZF9 S model. These are recommended by Zero for a 150 pound rider, so you might want it a little stiffer if you are heavier, but it should get you in the ballpark and then you can make adjustments up or down from there:

The following values are provided as a recommendation only.  Be careful when you change suspension settings as they can change the handling characteristics of the bike.

2012 ZF9 -S for 150lb rider:
Fork compression: 8 clicks out
Fork Rebound: 8 clicks out
Preloaded shock spring length: 141mm (spring free length is 145mm long)
Shock Compression: 14 clicks out
Shock Rebound: 1 click out
Note: 1 click out = all the way in to last click

Be gentle when adjusting the clickers.  If you hit the end of the adjustment range and try to force the knob to do one more click, you can damage the internal valving.  Just use your fingers to turn the suspension adjustment knobs.

As far as the air-release screws under the handlbars go, I can turn them with a small right-angle hex wrench that I found in a set at Sears. The rebound adjustment screws can be turned with a long screwdriver, or with a very small stubby screwdriver, which can be hard to find at your typical hardware store.

[CliC]

Thanks for the info, guys. I figured my next step might be to play with the suspension settings. I'm over 150 lbs, but after reading all this I think it's just dialed in too stiff for my weight and preferences. Half a day of ride-adjust-rinse-repeat is in my future.

I use a hardware-store ball-end allen wrench for my front fork bleed screws. They have O-rings and so don't need to be extremely tight, so you can cheat with the ball-end wrench from a slight angle to get around the bars and yet have finger-twirl ability on the wrench to get the screws out quickly. I'll probably use my PicQuic stubby screwdriver (doze are da bomb or a Wiha thin-blade terminal screwdriver I have for the top clickers. I looked online at some pushbutton bleeders, but realized that they will hit the fairing at full lock unless you cut a notch in it for them. Since I have to jack the bike up to bleed them anyway (so says Google the master mechanic , the overall time savings is insignificant, so I forgot about that idea.

The rear spring preload nuts look like they require a special tool (if you don't want to tear them up with a pair of Channellocks). What do y'all use to adjust them without damage?

[trikester]

I frequently transport my 2012 DS to my desert place and back so the poor accessibility of the vent screws under the handlebar was irritating. There are aftermarket push-button vents that I purchased and so now after compressing or releasing the forks I just momentarily press these two little caps. The push-button vents just screw in place of the little metric bolts that come with the bike.

As I recall the price was about $25. Very handy.

Trikester

[CliC]

I frequently transport my 2012 DS to my desert place and back so the poor accessibility of the vent screws under the handlebar was irritating. There are aftermarket push-button vents that I purchased and so now after compressing or releasing the forks I just momentarily press these two little caps. The push-button vents just screw in place of the little metric bolts that come with the bike.

As I recall the price was about $25. Very handy.

Trikester

Those are what I was referring to earlier. They don't hit your fairing at left and right lock? My DS didn't look like it had room for them as those screws go under the fairing when I turn the bars all the way left or right, and the shortest ones I found were 11 or 12mm tall. What kind did you get (I looked at Motion Pro and Moose Racing)?

BTW, for anyone looking for these, I'll hopefully save you some research: the Zero bleeder screws are M5 x 0.8 screws. Showa forks apparently also use that size.

[Richard230]

The rear shock spring "nuts" can be adjusted using a shock spring tool designed for dual-shock motorcycles.  These used to come in many motorcycle tool kits - when motorcycles were sold with tool kits instead of a credit card holder.     Now you can buy these spring wrenches through any accessory catalog store, or you can order them through any motorcycle dealer, if they don't already have them in stock.  However, they come in many different sizes and you need to find one that fits properly if you want to avoid bruised knuckles.  Channel Locks work just fine too, but they will mar the paint on the nuts.  Alternately, you can use the old standby of a punch or old screwdriver and a mallet to move the adjustment rings.  A little WD40-type lube helps them move more easily.

[craigq]

Alternately, you can use the old standby of a punch or old screwdriver and a mallet to move the adjustment rings.  A little WD40-type lube helps them move more easily.

If you're going with that method, be careful. Both with your hands and the bike 

[ed5000]

Richard, where did you adjust the rear shock compression?  I have a rebound knob and the spanner nut and lock nut for the spring but not sure of the compression.

I took the handlebars off and found the left fork rebound at 5 clicks out and the right at zero.   I changed both rebound and compression screws to 7 clicks out (since I'm over 150 lbs) and took it for a test ride.  The ride is less jittery on rough broken pavement and is better overall.  The interesting part was I can hit a regular old standard speed bump at the shopping center at 15 mph and not feel it.  The bike just floats over it staying level while the shocks absorb everything .  Not so much so with speed humps which are wider (4 to 6 feet wide).  But that is probably to be expected.  The shocks have to rebound sometime.  The vent screws should be no problem.  I think I can reach it with a ball end allen wrench.

Thanks, Ed

[BSDThw]

Thanks to trikester and CliC,

the push-button vents are a good idea, I will order some.

Hi ED5000,

the Manual has a picture at page 4-20.
"Compression Adjustment - The compression adjustment knob (D) is at the top of the shock. It has 18 stages of adjustment. The knob has “+” (slower compression) and “-” (faster compression)."

You cannot really see it. Therefore you have to fiddle blind and adjust it by instinct.

I hope I didn't offend Richard by answering the question.

[Richard230]

Thanks for beating me to the punch.BSDThw. I never get offended by anything. BTW, that shock compression screw is not the easiest to turn by hand and to set by feel. But it can be done.

[ed5000]

Thank you BSD and Richard!  I will look for that knob tonight.  The settings I put in (from Richard) worked well on my commute in this morning. I couldn't be happier. There was a noticeable improvement on I580 where the concrete roadway jumps a little between expansion joints. I'm beginning to really really like this bike!

It also rained on the way in to work this morning.  This is the bike's first exposure to moisture. The  bike handled it admirably.