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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: officialhopsof on December 16, 2015, 06:54:08 AM
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anyone have any experience installing a left hand rear brake on my MY15 FX? I have a kit but I have no idea where to plug all this stuff up at, specifically since I would like to keep the ABS and the foot brake lever if I can.
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Did you search around? I would love a left hand brake. I hate the foot brake. I would rather put the balls of my feet on the pegs and if I do that I can't reach the foot brake. I think it is easier to control 2 levers rather than one lever and one pedal. I would even consider putting the front brake on the left since I come from bike riding.
You would need redundant brake light switches possibly. Depending on your routing ABS may not be a problem. The only problem to solve is stacking the brake lines on the rear brake master cylinder and getting the pressure sensor to function and fit. This probably makes no since without a diagram and a picture.
Why do you have redundant brakes?
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Some have used left lever to trigger varisble max regen which acts same as rear brake, no need to mess with rear brake hydraulics. But you do need to program motor controller to do this and use a transducer to tell motor controller how much brake pressure you are applying by lever. Added advantage is adding charge to battery.
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4357.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4357.0)
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Some have used left lever to trigger varisble max regen which acts same as rear brake, no need to mess with rear brake hydraulics. But you do need to program motor controller to do this and use a transducer to tell motor controller how much brake pressure you are applying by lever. Added advantage is adding charge to battery.
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4357.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4357.0)
I can't understand why Zero don't offer this as an accessory (fitted by the dealer).
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Harlem at Hollywood electrics may be open to developing a kit. These seem to push the tech and often Zero will add it to there bike later. As they did with the 660amp controller upgrade becoming the SR model.
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Is it legal as far as insurane liability and so on?
Changing the manufacter's braking system may be legally problematic, in case of an accident for example.
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
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I would think you could argue it's not a brake, thats by your right foot and has no need to be altered. It's an energy recovery system! An exhaust brake on a truck is in addition to the normal brakes as this would be.
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Get a hose shop make a 3 way hose then leave the abs alone
H
Just tell them it's 2 in 1 out (2 master) 1 slave
Should be basic for the shop to make..... Bleeding them together to function properly would be somewhat tricky.... Probably hardest part about the whole thkng
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In another thread, the Vectrix two way "throttle" / regen brake was mentioned. That seems like the way to go.
My ideal control set up would be:
1. Vectrix two way "throttle"
2. Left front brake
3. Right rear brake
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Since custom-ordered stainless steel brake line is done by many shops, and fitting two lines into one with a double banjo bolt is not unusual ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E82CEE (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E82CEE) ), and left-handed brake master cylinders are readily available ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/281778851797 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281778851797) ), I see nothing stopping me from just putting it together and having it work... right? :D The one open question is whether the master cylinder/brake lever assembly will easily fit onto the left bar given the headlight switch. A cheap experiment, I will try it out, I mean, they're only brakes, right? ;D
As I have posted elsewhere, I have had my front brakes complete fail (overheat), and I really haven't gotten much better at using the rear brake, very hard to get a good feel to prevent locking the rear, so this sounds like a reasonable alternative. I am used to having two brakes on a mountain bike, however the positions are swapped (rear brake is right side lever on a bicycle). However, since you primarily use the rear brake on a bicycle, both bicycles and motorcycles have the primary braking on the right side.
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"In another thread, the Vectrix two way "throttle" / regen brake was mentioned. That seems like the way to go. "
I have a Vectrix, and using the throttle for regen braking is cool but a user-interface problem.
You get in the habit of twisting backwards to slow, but it only goes so far, and you need to mentally switch gears to apply the friction brakes, not a good thing to expect of a rider in emergency-stop situations.
I tell people that to be safe on a Vectrix, you need to repeat to yourself that the throttle is for controlling speed, but do not not not think of it as braking. The levers are for braking.
All that said, I have added left-hand-braking to my 2014 Zero SR, and I love it.
(1) I can keep the bike from rolling downhill with either hand.
(2) I can position my feet wherever.
Tony
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"In another thread, the Vectrix two way "throttle" / regen brake was mentioned. That seems like the way to go. "
I have a Vectrix, and using the throttle for regen braking is cool but a user-interface problem.
You get in the habit of twisting backwards to slow, but it only goes so far, and you need to mentally switch gears to apply the friction brakes, not a good thing to expect of a rider in emergency-stop situations.
I tell people that to be safe on a Vectrix, you need to repeat to yourself that the throttle is for controlling speed, but do not not not think of it as braking. The levers are for braking.
All that said, I have added left-hand-braking to my 2014 Zero SR, and I love it.
(1) I can keep the bike from rolling downhill with either hand.
(2) I can position my feet wherever.
Tony
I did over 50.000 kilometres on my Vectrix and loved the front brake and regeneration throttle combo! After a short period I could do max regeneration brake and full front brake at the same time (all right hand). Just do some practice brake tests for perfect technique.
Rear brake wasn't necessary because regeneration brake on the rear wheel was very strong. Applying rear friction brake combined with full regeneration could easily lock the rear wheel.
I only used the rear friction brake when stopped on a slope.
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Same here (although I only put a few thousand miles on my Vectixes). I got used to the regen/brakes combination. I keep grabbing for the left hand rear brake on the SR - and it is not there (just like folks used to gears tend to look for the clutch lever). I am gradually adapting and I am sure I will forget about that soon enough.
My only concern with dual hand brakes has been if I will be able to differentiate between the front and the rear in a panic situation and modulate them accordingly. On the Vectrix there is no ABS, and I have locked-up the rear quite a few times, but no accidents. With the SR the ABS should take care of that, so I see no downside for street riding - I have thought myself to almost always place both feet on the ground equally when at a stop and having to use a foot brake now feel unnatural to me from that perspective - I still want to put both my legs down, but because I've been using the foot brake to almost a complete stop, now I have to let it go and focus on the front brake exclusively to keep me in place...
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All that said, I have added left-hand-braking to my 2014 Zero SR, and I love it.
Tony, so can you share the details on how you implemented this? You installed a dual banjo bolt on the rear caliper and have two brake lines running from it?
I measure about 66 inches for a brake line from the rear caliper banjo bolt to the (hypothetical) left lever master cylinder banjo bolt.
Thanks,
-Alan
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Since custom-ordered stainless steel brake line is done by many shops, and fitting two lines into one with a double banjo bolt is not unusual ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E82CEE (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E82CEE) ), and left-handed brake master cylinders are readily available ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/281778851797 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281778851797) ), I see nothing stopping me from just putting it together and having it work... right? :D The one open question is whether the master cylinder/brake lever assembly will easily fit onto the left bar given the headlight switch. A cheap experiment, I will try it out, I mean, they're only brakes, right? ;D
As I have posted elsewhere, I have had my front brakes complete fail (overheat), and I really haven't gotten much better at using the rear brake, very hard to get a good feel to prevent locking the rear, so this sounds like a reasonable alternative. I am used to having two brakes on a mountain bike, however the positions are swapped (rear brake is right side lever on a bicycle). However, since you primarily use the rear brake on a bicycle, both bicycles and motorcycles have the primary braking on the right side.
So I just put it all together and it works fine. So simple to do. The hardest part was bleeding out the new line--I made a mess but I just needed some clear line to drain off the nipple into a container. Important note: the J-Juan banjo bolt is 10mm x 1.00 threading (not 1.25).... I actually have it hooked up direct from the left lever/master cylinder without the rear brake pedal connected to the line, but I will hook up both when I get the correct double banjo bolt. I guess a totally complete install would need the brake light switch connected, which should be simple.
What's it like? Well, the lever does not have great feel, but just having it a hand versus foot control is a huge improvement in control and modulation. I definitely feel like I have more total stopping power and can lock up the rear without using the front brake. Most importantly for me, I can easily use the rear brake to scrub off speed and won't have to worry about the front brakes overheating. Yes, all things you can do with the rear brake pedal, I know... but just easier and less to think about, especially if you're an old bicyclist.
The custom stainless steel brake line was 66" long with flat connectors in a 90 degree orientation (relative to each other), I routed it up the right side of the battery inside the body, no problem. I got it from G&J aircraft (Los Angeles area) (909)986-6534. It was $34 plus shipping. The master cylinder was straight from my link above, although it is not a good visual match for the OEM right master cylinder (it's bigger), I'm sure there is a left lever/MC that is a better match. A smaller MC piston (10-13mm) would give better feel as well. So basically with a bottle of brake fluid it was about $60 and 1-2 hours labor.
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Yeah, more or less like you, I installed the line and then went through the bleeding process with fresh brake fluid. I went slow and careful after watching some youtube videos on brake bleeding, and it went well. I did get a one-way valve to help the process but it was defective and I returned it after doing the job the old fashioned way (loosen, squeeze, tighten, release, check level, maybe add fluid, repeat).
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Really like the rear brake on the left lever. I feel I can brake the bike harder and faster without much thought. I think a big part of it in my mind is confidence--with the braking power spread out onto two discs, I feel confident I'm not going to overheat both on the street. Definitely a performance upgrade in my mind.
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Getting more regen is definitely interesting. It would be simple to just increase the input through the app in custom mode?
Just make a survey on the percentage applied on the regen with 100 owners. Pretty sure over 75% selected 100%. On top of that, it is good for your brake pads!
Otherwise , I agree that left lever regen option is more for a full electric rider.
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Well, the type of situations where I need more braking are beyond the capacity of motor regen, so even with motor/brake regen at 100%, riding on hilly windy roads I need to use my brakes before every corner (unless I'm going so slow I'm holding up traffic). Regen is also not going to help in emergency or close-call situations. Thinking about deer and squirrels and cars that don't see you. I actually like the feel of the bike with the regen at 30%: when you set your speed going into a corner, it rolls through smoothly and so you don't have to try to feather the throttle to maintain speed. But it does make me think, what if the left lever brake light switch was wired to generate 100% motor regen when activated? That might be cool.
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Manzanita, I would like to move the rear brake control to the handlebar. Have a Tmax and like the hand brake for the rear. I was wondering what left hand master cylinder you used. Curious if the set up you detailed above is still working for you. I also was thinking if the two lines to the rear brake were ganged together pressure from one master cyl. might force fluid into the other unless it was also being applied. Just thinkin'. Last I was wondering if there is a left hand brake mc already set up for ABS. available. I've been looking but not finding.
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I also wonder whether two master cylinders can work together on the rear. I installed a mechanical left hand brake on my 2016 FX. Used a clutch lever, custom cable, and connected to the rear brake pedal behind the pivot. That works very well using lever, pedal or both, with or without ABS (I installed an ABS disable switch). Probably needs more lever effort than a hydraulic LHRB, but it combines well with the stock brake system. And with regen added the lever effort is reduced. I'll post pictures and details if others are interested.
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Keith, would like to see your set up with the cable. I was thinking about that too, but wondered about placement of the cable stop and the point on the foot lever that would give optimum leverage. I could buy an extra lever to play with. Hydraulically, on the Tmax the rear brake has a 14x38mm ratio mc to rear caliper ratio. To bad this kind of info isn't available for zero w/o a tear down. These ratios are critical to feel,power, and lever travel. Oh yeah, the Tmax rear brake feels stronger than the front tho' it's not.
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OK, here is my mechanical Left Hand Rear Brake detail. I used a KTM clutch lever 54602040300 with a custom cable based on MotionPro 10-0037 '98 KTM clutch cable extended to 66" housing, 71" inner wire. A longer clevis pin, locking collar, screws, and Dorman Help cable stop were also purchased. A fabricated mounting plate of 1/8 inch aluminum holds a short 1" x 1" 1/8" steel angle piece for the cable end. Two small aluminum pieces hold the cable stop and attach to the clevis pin that goes through the brake pedal. Bronze washers allow the pivot to rotate.
The cable is longitudinal wound, I tried making my own cable from a kit but it had too much housing compression. I also started with the cable end mounted to the stock side cover plate but it flexed too much. Both of those caused a loss of braking force and let the level go to the handlebar. I tried many different leverage versus travel combinations with different attachments to the pedal, that's the reason for the extra holes in the clevis plates. The play must be carefully adjusted to get good braking (lock the rear wheel on pavement with no ABS) without any drag that will quickly wear the pads and heat up the disc. The clutch lever has a nice adjustment for that.
I am happy with the performance but it did take a few iterations to get there. It is great to be able to use both front and rear brakes with feet off the pegs on loose hills, going up or down. The extra spring on the front of the pedal was added to give a more positive return, needed because the stock return spring wasn't enough to push the cable and lever resulting in brake drag.
The advantage of the mechanical approach over hydraulic is that the stock braking components are unchanged. ABS and the pedal work just as before.
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Thanks for the detailed pics and description of the setup in actual use. This should make rear brake use easier, first I extended the toe piece to make it fall under the foot better but still had to lift my foot off the peg to use the rear brake. A project I look forward to finishing.
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Do not see these mentioned but I am sure one of the kits will fit or would be easily adapted:
https://rekluse.com/product/brake-kit-dual-actuated/
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The Rekluse rear brake is not a good fit for the Zero FX. I ride with a friend who has a KTM500EXC and Rekluse. He has this kit and it isn't strong, won't lock the rear reliably. Also, it is made to work with a separate clutch lever and the KTM pedal is quite different. But it is the same idea as my mod. The other option out there is the Clake http://www.clake.com.au/ (http://www.clake.com.au/) It is expensive and also made to work with a clutch, but Clake 2 does solve the two master cylinder problem for rear braking. http://www.clake.com.au/clake-dual-control-system/ (http://www.clake.com.au/clake-dual-control-system/)
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Hey guys I would like some help of removing the throttle unit from the handle bars. I found a this weird hex with a post in the center (in attached image) and I'm not sure what size or in fact where to buy one.
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike
(http://www.com-pany.com/zero/bar.jpg)
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Those are called "tamper proof torx "
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Thanks would auto-zone or NAPA sell these?
Thanks
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Thanks would auto-zone or NAPA sell these?
Thanks
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Thanks would auto-zone or NAPA sell these?
Thanks
yes. they're very common.
http://www.autozone.com/screwdrivers/driver-bit?filterByKeyWord=tamper+proof+torx&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false (http://www.autozone.com/screwdrivers/driver-bit?filterByKeyWord=tamper+proof+torx&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false)
They're often called "security torx" or "tamper proof torx" bits. The driver will be a normal torx driver with a hole in the middle.
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These torx screws are also called rejection torx and security torx. They are available here; https://www.amazon.com/Torx-Driver-Security-T-10-T-40/dp/B0002SPLQ8 (https://www.amazon.com/Torx-Driver-Security-T-10-T-40/dp/B0002SPLQ8) on amazon. There are several sizes of kits on this page and use 1/4" drive spcket or a 1/4" nut driver.
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Not real certain for moving the brake and while it might never happen to you - by putting a brake on the left side you open a Pandora's box if you let most riders on your bike because the normal reaction is to squeeze the clutch. I once owned a Aprilla and they put the front brake on the left. My buddy and his wife came to visit and as he turned right and stopped at the road he squeezed what he thought was the clutch, and the left brake it ejected both him and his wife into the windshield and on the ground and dumped my new bike.
Regards - Mike
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LoC, I agree . I have a Tmax w/left hand rear brake but after a few mins. of riding I get used to it every time. In regards to bicycles I've always switched the front brake to the right side so that all my two wheelers are the same. Had similar problems back in the day when euro bikes had right hand shifting and some were up for 1st. Plus don't trust to many folks to ride my motorcycles any way.
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Since custom-ordered stainless steel brake line is done by many shops, and fitting two lines into one with a double banjo bolt is not unusual ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E82CEE (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E82CEE) ), and left-handed brake master cylinders are readily available ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/281778851797 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281778851797) ),
Amazon link is broken,
Can someone point me to the relevant items to be bought?
Thanks
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I just tried the amazon link and it worked so go to amazon, look for; 7 Pc. Torx Driver Security Bit Set T-10 to T-40 , there are other sets on that page. These bits require a 1/4 driver like a socket or a nut driver.
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Sorry wrong reference, try this; https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_fb_1_11/159-1983031-4240340?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=banjo+bolts&sprefix=banjo+bolts%2Ctools%2C294&crid=JPR6I3H044RA (https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_fb_1_11/159-1983031-4240340?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=banjo+bolts&sprefix=banjo+bolts%2Ctools%2C294&crid=JPR6I3H044RA)
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Which double banjo did @manzanita used?
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I am still very much liking the dual brake levers, but hate to admit I never have installed the rear double banjo bolt; basically the rear brake foot pedal brake line is not connected and is taped up on the piston end. But as far as connecting both master cylinders to the same line, I don't think it would be a problem. If you've rebuilt a master cylinder, you can see that the lever pushes a piston that acts as a one-way valve: the brake fluid can only be pumped out of the top reservoir into the line, but the pressure in the line normally doesn't push fluid back up into the reservoir.
I am still using an economically-priced left master cylinder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Left-7-8-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Hydraulic-Brake-Clutch-Lever-Master-Cylinder-New-/322084724157. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Left-7-8-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Hydraulic-Brake-Clutch-Lever-Master-Cylinder-New-/322084724157.) This has a 14mm piston and that feels good to me as far as lever travel and feel.
I have ridden ~ 5-6k miles with this setup and still really like it. Also, I have had ICE bikes and have swapped bikes often, and I rarely get confused... although when that does happen it is when I first get on the Zero and pull the left lever (as if it were the clutch). There have been a few times when I've been on my gas bikes and pulled the clutch in thinking it was the brake... but since you are shifting with the clutch to even leave your driveway, you automatically remind your left hand to do the right thing. In emergency stops, pulling the clutch in isn't going to hurt braking and is recommended anyways to not kill the engine. And likewise, pulling the left lever in an emergency stop on the Zero ("on mistake", thinking it is the clutch lever) will just add braking power, which is what you wanted anyways... but yeah, I should have the foot pedal connected just in case of a panic situation where I get confused.
In hard braking it is of course tricky to modulate the rear brake from locking, but the feel with the hand lever is much better than with the foot lever, in my experience.
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I' m still thinking' a double banjo on the foot master cylinder might force fluid into the foot reservoir. eg. changing worn brake pads. When you push the piston in to accommodate the thicker new pads the fluid goes back into the reservoir. So both master cyls. would have pressed to prevent fluid returning to their reservoirs. Just thinking, haven't actually tried it. If you are eliminating the foot mc completely you could get a two way manifold like this; https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/brake-line-accessories/2-way-manifold-180-degree-1675.htm , connect the line from the hand mc directly to the foot mc hose which goes to the ABS and you dont loose ABS only the use of the foot brake( take all the foot hardware off save weight) Lastly Speigler makes custom brake lines that you can change banjo orientation after you get the hose. I can generally get a pretty good length measurement with a rope or tygon tube the same dia. as the brake line.
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The hose connecting method above with the manifold allows reuse of the stock rear brake light switch.
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I' m still thinking' a double banjo on the foot master cylinder might force fluid into the foot reservoir. eg. changing worn brake pads. When you push the piston in to accommodate the thicker new pads the fluid goes back into the reservoir. So both master cyls. would have pressed to prevent fluid returning to their reservoirs. Just thinking, haven't actually tried it. If you are eliminating the foot mc completely you could get a two way manifold like this; https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/brake-line-accessories/2-way-manifold-180-degree-1675.htm , connect the line from the hand mc directly to the foot mc hose which goes to the ABS and you dont loose ABS only the use of the foot brake( take all the foot hardware off save weight) Lastly Speigler makes custom brake lines that you can change banjo orientation after you get the hose. I can generally get a pretty good length measurement with a rope or tygon tube the same dia. as the brake line.
You're correct, it doesnt work if you just plumb a second one on the brake line. you can plumb the 2nd handlebar master into the reservoir port on the foot master, but you need to make the part.
The stunt rider guys have already been over this multiple times.
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Notes from a left hand rear brake project. Can't fabricate parts so easy since retiring, so quit the cable-to rear master cyl. method. I measured the front MC piston (13mm), rear MC (12mm) and front caliper (30 & 32mm) Rear caliper (34mm). Banjo threads on front MC 10mmx1.0, rear MC 10mmx1.25. Since I was eliminating the rear MC and had a 10mm x 1.0 180 deg. manifold had to buy a Tusk hydraulic switch. I used a Brembo clutch MC, a custom Speigler hose (1422mm long) with a 90 deg. and a short straight on either end. Put it all together, bled the system. It felt good in the garage test mode. Unfortunately the tusk was weeping out of the wires. They are sending another no charge,no return of the faulty one. I would bypass the brake sw. but I think it may activate the ABS as well as the brake light. It's been snowing so not completely bummed at the delay. I'd love to see an electrical schematic but they seem as rare as service manuals. The drawing may or may not be a Gen9 ABS but is probably typical
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After further investigation the drawing above is a Bosch ABS-N unit.
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After further investigation the drawing above is a Bosch ABS-N unit.
You can buy an adapter online so that the line from the hand lever/master cylinder replaces the rear reservoir. (Though I think you already have that part figured out.) Can't you just run the wire from the switch right to the one coming from the pedal switch? However it works, please keep us up to date.
Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
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Clay, yes a brake line like the front brake, run to the ABS unit and an extension from the rear brake sw. uses the shortest brake line path. The ABS unit is between the frame spars right behind the steering tube. Getting a wrench in there and then retorquing the banjo bolt is a bigger pia than I wanted to undertake. So the the long brake run and short wiring mod. I'm sure bleeding the shorter line would be easier.
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I' m still thinking' a double banjo on the foot master cylinder might force fluid into the foot reservoir. eg. changing worn brake pads. When you push the piston in to accommodate the thicker new pads the fluid goes back into the reservoir. So both master cyls. would have pressed to prevent fluid returning to their reservoirs. Just thinking, haven't actually tried it. If you are eliminating the foot mc completely you could get a two way manifold like this; https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/brake-line-accessories/2-way-manifold-180-degree-1675.htm , connect the line from the hand mc directly to the foot mc hose which goes to the ABS and you dont loose ABS only the use of the foot brake( take all the foot hardware off save weight) Lastly Speigler makes custom brake lines that you can change banjo orientation after you get the hose. I can generally get a pretty good length measurement with a rope or tygon tube the same dia. as the brake line.
You're correct, it doesnt work if you just plumb a second one on the brake line. you can plumb the 2nd handlebar master into the reservoir port on the foot master, but you need to make the part.
The stunt rider guys have already been over this multiple times.
something like this? (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/a77107671e7f1c3b340c78b2865f63b9.jpg)
(Not to mention one of these: http://jjuan.es/by-product-type/master-cylinders-2/?lang=en)
Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
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My left hand rear brake install is done and working good. After the first brake light switch failed, re-bleeding the line wasn't working. Power bleed, mighty vac, and old school hand lever press and caliper release all resulted in a mushy feel. On this page; https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/video-how-to-bleed-motorcycle-brakes (https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/video-how-to-bleed-motorcycle-brakes) there was a method I never heard of. Basically, compress the hand lever to the bar with a zip tie or lever lock, and leave over night. This worked well for me tho' I read elsewhere that it doesn't work. If your having trouble bleeding a brake it's worth a try.
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Yes, I know it's an old thread, but ... Could you remove the brake line going to the ABS from the rear master cylinder and reroute it to a front master cylinder? Is the line long enough? Would the fittings match up? (My last bike was a 650 SilverWing, so I think I can handle not having a brake pedal.) I was looking at this one: http://r.ebay.com/hVGb6l (http://r.ebay.com/hVGb6l)
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Yes, I know it's an old thread, but ... Could you remove the brake line going to the ABS from the rear master cylinder and reroute it to a front master cylinder? Is the line long enough? Would the fittings match up? (My last bike was a 650 SilverWing, so I think I can handle not having a brake pedal.) I was looking at this one: http://r.ebay.com/hVGb6l (http://r.ebay.com/hVGb6l)
Are you saying you want to have a single brake lever control both the front and the rear brakes? I have heard of linked braking but I have assumed it was more complicated than this...
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Yes, I know it's an old thread, but ... Could you remove the brake line going to the ABS from the rear master cylinder and reroute it to a front master cylinder? Is the line long enough? Would the fittings match up? (My last bike was a 650 SilverWing, so I think I can handle not having a brake pedal.) I was looking at this one: http://r.ebay.com/hVGb6l (http://r.ebay.com/hVGb6l)
Are you saying you want to have a single brake lever control both the front and the rear brakes? I have heard of linked braking but I have assumed it was more complicated than this...
Oh no! Rear brake controlled by left-hand lever which I would install. Front brake/right lever to remain unaltered.