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EDIT: What I suggested in my earlier post (bike recording charges / calculating SoH) was wrong.
I went to my dealer yesterday to let them download the bike's data for the warranty promo. He explained to me that a reliable SoH calculation is not an easy thing to do.


They have a '20 EGO in the showroom there with 20,000 km belonging to a client who asks 17,000 € for it. He doesn't think it will sell anywhere near this price.
He also told me about a customer who bought a used Zero S (several years old with about 5,000 km) and the battery died only some weeks after the sale. In the end it was repaired but cost the client somewhere around 2k.

I think we all agree that not knowing the SoH of the battery in a used EV is the main reason why people are reluctant to buy. Objectively this is nonsense because you cannot 'look into' the engine of an IC vehicle either, or am I wrong?

What I totally fail to understand is, why manufacturers did not see that coming and set up something to redeem that. I mean, there is an opportunity to sell some kind of service!

Oooo. Oooo. Ow. That sounded expensive. Loved how quick you were to stand and give the thumbs up, not bad for an old bloke. I note the crash happened not long after that silver/white bike was pressuring you……..

If there is no voltage at the glass fuse there are a few other causes for the bike not turning on. The issue may be: the wiring between the fuse holder and the battery, the PSU inside the battery or your battery voltage.

Just for reference when you are measuring voltage at the fuse holder, where are you connecting the other probe? You needs a ground reference, I normally use the inverter case.
To confirm the wire supplying power is not damaged unplug the 16 pin Molex connector from the battery, it's located under the left side tank cover. There is a white locking tab you need to lift up before you can depress the latch.
You will need to use a thin probe or a jumper (paperclip) to access the pins of the connector. Use the below diagram to locate pin #8, it should have continuity with the fuse holder (probe both sides).
If you have continuity you can also measure for voltage at pin #8 of the battery connector. The circuit normally puts our 9V.
https://tools.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/334721606_sd.pdf

The next step will be to get in contact with your dealer. Checking the PSU and the pack voltage when the bike will not power up requires access to diagnostic software.

watch till end!

Had my '21 SR for 3 years now. The only major problem it ever had was an intermittent issue of the BMS' failing to awaken, leaving the bike inoperable. Each time, it would right itself within about 1 to 4 days. On about the 4th occurrence, there was finally a local dealer, so I was able to have the firmware updated. The issue hasn't repeated since. The only other issue I've had that I was able to remedy myself was failure of the ignition switch. Lack of internal strain relief combined with inadequate slack in the harness eventually pulled a wire from its solder pad inside the switch.

I don't consider it an issue, but I'll add that I have never been able to push a firmware update to the bike via the app ... ever. And since brand new, the dash clock has never kept time, and of course, the battery is soldered to the board inside the dash.

Maybe it is luck (or lack thereof)*, both my last two belts lasted just 7k miles on ordinary roads at ordinary trundling speeds.

Cas

* "If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all"

One more thing. When I get to where my Esse Esse 9 is located at my other home, I will check to see if the frame can be used as ground to measure the voltage on that fuse. And I will post here what that voltage should be.


That will be in two to three days from now.



On my SS9, I now have that fuse where it is very easy for me to check without taking the bike apart.


-Don-  Reno, NV

Thanks for the reply. Yes my Eva does have a 315mA glass fuse. In this case they had taped it into the wiring harness close to the main fuse block. The fuse tests OK with a multimeter. I've tested the voltage between the "engine block" and each side of the fuse holder but get 0V.

I've had a feel of the other taped-up wiring around where you pictured and can't find another fuse holder in there.

Thanks for replying, though, as I'd already seen another "won't turn on" thread where that fuse was to blame.

I'm at a loss for what to try now.

There must be voltage at that fuse on one side, even with bike off and not charging. So you're close to finding the problem--maybe. I cannot remember if that circuit uses the frame for the ground. I do not remember; it could be a floating ground.  But IIRC, the voltage at that fuse is what gives the power to turn the bike on when the switch is off. Won't charge, bike won't do anything without the voltage from that fuse.


Check the wires on the fuse holder itself. I have seen such where it is really only crimped on the insulation.   


I expect you're very close to finding the problem.


-Don-  Reno, NV

Has anyone already broken or changed the belt on a DSR/X?

Given that the power delivered from the motor is about the same as for the SR/F, I would have expected that the positive changes (22/90t vs. 20/90t SR/F/S and 25 width vs. 20 mm) would mean more distance between replacements, but no, we still read the same 24K mi (37K km) interval in the user's manual.

I have 47'000 mi on my SR/F, never broke a belt, kept the previous two, and they still look like fresh out the Gates factory. Is this just pure luck? Since I will be riding on gravel and dirt roads only as my last options, I am pretty sure the belt should last me well over 35'000 mi.

Any thoughts?

Thanks for the reply. Yes my Eva does have a 315mA glass fuse. In this case they had taped it into the wiring harness close to the main fuse block. The fuse tests OK with a multimeter. I've tested the voltage between the "engine block" and each side of the fuse holder but get 0V.

I've had a feel of the other taped-up wiring around where you pictured and can't find another fuse holder in there.

Thanks for replying, though, as I'd already seen another "won't turn on" thread where that fuse was to blame.

I'm at a loss for what to try now.