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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: vinceherman on June 21, 2019, 12:19:47 AM
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I have owned my SR/F for 28 hours so far. In that time I have completed 1 1/5 commutes.
Yes, early in the life of a bike, but I wanted to toss out some observations.
The turn signal is a switch that slides side to side. It is located directly under the larger mode switch that also slides side to side. Operating the mode switch when intending to make a turn helps nobody. Even after I caught myself erroneously using the mode switch, I still hit it at the next several uses. I will continue to concentrate on using the proper switch and train my thumb.
The rear brake does not have as much authority as I expect. Granted, this is my first sporty bike. It might be a characteristic of the bike style. The front brakes *certainly* has authority in abundance. Does the ABS affect the rear?
I have not yet figured out what data is available from the bike. What is Ride Capture? What logs can I get from the bike?
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The turn signal is a switch that slides side to side. It is located directly under the larger mode switch that also slides side to side. Operating the mode switch when intending to make a turn helps nobody. Even after I caught myself erroneously using the mode switch, I still hit it at the next several uses. I will continue to concentrate on using the proper switch and train my thumb.
The rear brake does not have as much authority as I expect. Granted, this is my first sporty bike. It might be a characteristic of the bike style. The front brakes *certainly* has authority in abundance. Does the ABS affect the rear?
Most of the braking is always in the front--by far--on any bike. Any yes, the ABS has to work with both brakes.
BTW, does the SR/F have self- cancelling turn signals?
-Don- Reno, NV
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What kind of range are you seeing so far?
My new DSR rear brake is shockingly poor as well.
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DonTom, no self cancelling signals.
Jarrett, range is still being determined. (table edited to reduce number of rows)
| Date | Time | ODO | Trip | SoC | Location | Charge time | SoC after |
| 6/19/2019 | 11:30 AM | 6 | | 97 | Cleveland Moto | | |
| 6/19/2019 | 12:27 PM | 42 | 36 | 57 | Work | 5 | 73 |
| 6/19/2019 | 6:36 PM | 81 | 39 | ? | Bill's | 1:20 | ? |
| 6/19/2019 | 9:15 PM | 100 | 19 | 40 | Home | ? | 100 |
| 6/20/2019 | 8:49 AM | 143 | 43 | 45 | Work | ? | 100 |
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So like 80 miles a charge?
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My SRF signal cancels but it takes over 60 seconds:)
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As mentioned above, front brakes are usually 75% of any vehicle.
If you have ever looked at the breaks, you will see how much larger the front
rotors are vs the rear. Also why you still see drums on the rear. Rear is usually
best for keeping the bike from rolling while stopped
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My SRF signal cancels but it takes over 60 seconds:)
That's better than my 2017 SR or DS. Many times I have rode several miles before I noticed they were still on.
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
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I have owned my SR/F for 28 hours so far. In that time I have completed 1 1/5 commutes.
Yes, early in the life of a bike, but I wanted to toss out some observations.
The turn signal is a switch that slides side to side. It is located directly under the larger mode switch that also slides side to side. Operating the mode switch when intending to make a turn helps nobody. Even after I caught myself erroneously using the mode switch, I still hit it at the next several uses. I will continue to concentrate on using the proper switch and train my thumb.
The rear brake does not have as much authority as I expect. Granted, this is my first sporty bike. It might be a characteristic of the bike style. The front brakes *certainly* has authority in abundance. Does the ABS affect the rear?
I have not yet figured out what data is available from the bike. What is Ride Capture? What logs can I get from the bike?
As noted in another recent thread, the rear brake will seem very weak with abs as opposed to the front brake because it doesnt take alot to lockup the rear. Turn off the abs and youll see what i mean.
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Economy numbers
| Date | Time | ODO | Trip | SoC | Location | Charge time | SoC after |
| 6/19/2019 | 11:30 AM | 6 | | 97 | Cleveland Moto | | |
| 6/19/2019 | 12:27 PM | 42 | 36 | 57 | Work | 5 | 73 |
| 6/19/2019 | 6:36 PM | 81 | 39 | ? | Bill's | 1.333 | ? |
| 6/19/2019 | 9:15 PM | 100 | 19 | 40 | Home | ? | 100 |
| 6/20/2019 | 8:49 AM | 143 | 43 | 45 | Work | ? | 100 |
| 6/20/2019 | 20:32 | 175 | 32 | 58 | Home | 4 | 100 |
| 6/21/2019 | 8:20 | 215 | 40 | 58 | Work | 3 | 89 |
| 6/21/2019 | 11:30 | 218 | 3 | 86 | Don Ramon | | |
| 6/21/2019 | 12:30 | 221 | 3 | 81 | Work | 2.25 | 100 |
Some notes on my ride in today. I jumped on the highway, moved into the high speed lane and kept up with traffic. Some time 77. Some times 10.
Edit: went to lunch
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what is your commute like for speeds?
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what is your commute like for speeds?
Some time 77. Some times 10.
Seriously, there are times if you are only doing 75, you are a hazard.
Much of the time, it is only a few mph over the limit.
Construction and traffic frequently bring speeds way down.
I keep up with traffic. If there is someone in the left lane who is not keeping up with the traffic in front of them, I go around.
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Oh, another observation.
The mirrors are not far enough outboard for me. If I have them aimed in far enough to see the lane behind me, I mostly see my own elbows.
On my bicycle I have bar-end mirrors and can see around my own fat body. I am going to have to look around for a solution that moves the mirrors further out.
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Another observation. My Scorpion half helmet, while more comfortable in the summer temps, sucks at higher highway speeds. It does an impersonation of a wing and tries to fly off my head at anything above 70.
I am either going to wear my modular HJC, get a windscreen or tuck in to the slower lanes for my commute.
To continue my reporting of economy, here is the latest additions to my spreadsheet.
Much of that was cruising around this weekend pleasure riding.
This morning was my commute, 32 miles in street mod with most of it at full highway speed, which when keeping up with traffic has little to do with the posted limit. I was surprised how good the economy was for this trip only dipping down to 64%.
| Date | Time | ODO | Trip | SoC | Location | Charge time | SoC after |
| 6/19/2019 | 11:30 | 6 | | 97 | Cleveland Moto | | |
| 6/19/2019 | 12:27 | 42 | 36 | 57 | Work | 5 | 73 |
| 6/19/2019 | 18:36 | 81 | 39 | ? | Bill's | 1:20 | ? |
| 6/19/2019 | 21:15 | 100 | 19 | 40 | Home | ? | 100 |
| 6/20/2019 | 8:49 | 143 | 43 | 45 | Work | ? | 100 |
| 6/20/2019 | 20:32 | 175 | 32 | 58 | Home | 4 | 100 |
| 6/21/2019 | 8:20 | 215 | 40 | 58 | Work | 3 | 89 |
| 6/21/2019 | 11:30 | 218 | 3 | 86 | Don Ramon | | |
| 6/21/2019 | 12:30 | 221 | 3 | 81 | Work | 2.25 | 100 |
| 6/21/2019 | 18:13 | 266 | 45 | 44 | Home | 0.8 | 47 |
| 6/21/2019 | 19:50 | 273 | 7 | 41 | Home | 0.5 | 44 |
| 6/21/2019 | 21:12 | 299 | 26 | 22 | Home | 7.25 | 100 |
| 6/22/2019 | 22:43 | 357 | 58 | 52 | Home | 4.5 | 100 |
| 6/23/2019 | 16:43 | 406 | 49 | 62 | Home | 3.75 | 100 |
| 6/23/2019 | 8:12 | 438 | 32 | 64 | Work | 3.5 | 100 |
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Has anyone played with the settings on the front or rear suspension of the SRF?
I weigh 185lbs and the bike feels a bit hard for me, like if it was set for maybe someone much heavier.
Before I change those settings, would there be any drawback? I don't plan on riding with a passenger ever.
Stability or handling issues if set too low/soft?
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Hard to tell what the factory settings are when so few ppl have their bike, but suspension is one of the most important things to set up properly on your bike. Stability can be an issue if set up wrong, but it also depends a lot on what you do with the bike and how your roads are. Gotta love those reviews complaining about suspension being too hard/soft when they have not even touched adjustment. A lot of bikes are set up for heavier passengers, there are some helpful videos on how to do it on youtube, if you don't feel save about doing it by yourself go to a local motorcycle dealer and get it set up for you.
Here's a short clip of the basics:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtzTyCKh5fY
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Hard to tell what the factory settings are when so few ppl have their bike, but suspension is one of the most important things to set up properly on your bike. Stability can be an issue if set up wrong, but it also depends a lot on what you do with the bike and how your roads are. Gotta love those reviews complaining about suspension being too hard/soft when they have not even touched adjustment. A lot of bikes are set up for heavier passengers, there are some helpful videos on how to do it on youtube, if you don't feel save about doing it by yourself go to a local motorcycle dealer and get it set up for you.
Here's a short clip of the basics:
Excellent video on the subject: I am glad I asked, Ermahgerd, thanks a lot!!
I didn't realize the pros have that down to a science and you don't need to be shooting in the dark guessing for a starting point.
Now, on to the Web to find a good front wheel choke to adjust that baby the right way.
Again, I appreciate you responding with this invaluable info!
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Glad i could help. You can probably do it with the wall-leaning if you want to save money on the choke. I had the same problem on a demo i tried (similar to your weight) and it felt like a new bike after adjusting the suspension. Keep us informed how it behaves after you set it up for your weight and riding style. I have not ridden showa-suspension yet but since it is adjustable it should do the job for most riders.
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Here is a question for those that have ridden both, an SR/F AND an Energica or Lightning (or similar bike at this power level).
Is their noise level about the same between them while cruising at low speeds? Say 30/40 mph.
My SR/F makes that "electric kind of whine" characteristic of EV's of course, but I was wondering if they all have it at about the same level or if it is louder on the Zero bikes.
While riding in a quiet neighborhood, around 30 mph, I notice pedestrians way ahead of me turning their heads when they hear the noise from my bike approaching and I wonder if other brands -of this size, of course- are as noisy.
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While I’ve only ridden the Zero DSR and SR/F, from what I’ve read in other reviews, the Energicas tend to run louder due mainly to the chain final drive and other mechanical bits.
Personally I felt the Zero’s were extremely quiet when compared to my Triumph Trophy’s stock exhaust which is one of the quietest ICE bikes I’ve ridden in 20 years.
Even watching a few co-workers ride their Zeros (DSRs and SRs) into the office parking lot they were quieter than the crap load of Teslas our office has in the parking lots.
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While I’ve only ridden the Zero DSR and SR/F, from what I’ve read in other reviews, the Energicas tend to run louder due mainly to the chain final drive and other mechanical bits.
Personally I felt the Zero’s were extremely quiet when compared to my Triumph Trophy’s stock exhaust which is one of the quietest ICE bikes I’ve ridden in 20 years.
Even watching a few co-workers ride their Zeros (DSRs and SRs) into the office parking lot they were quieter than the crap load of Teslas our office has in the parking lots.
Yeah, I know all EV produce sounds coming from different sources. Heck, I usually rent Segways when vacationing in Europe and even them, with a maximum speed of 12 mph, make some noise when compared to a electric bicycle.
Part of it, I believe, is having a high torque.
I just thought the SR/F, while going steady at say 25/30 mph on a flat road, would make less noise but I am not complaining, just trying to determine if it is normal.
After all, I got a dealer demo and it could be different on the production units.
By the way, I got an OTA firmware update (cool 8) feature) couple of days after I received the bike and brake regeneration sound is slightly different -using always the same Ride Mode- but other than that, I don't feel any difference.
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Here is a question for those that have ridden both, an SR/F AND an Energica or Lightning (or similar bike at this power level).
Is their noise level about the same between them while cruising at low speeds? Say 30/40 mph.
I haven't ridden an SR/F yet, but I rode a SR and an Eva back to back, and the Energica was noticably louder. Not annoyingly so or anything, but louder. I found it fairly enjoyable, really. And it didn't seem like a chain-vs-belt thing, because it was a louder electric motor "jet turbine" whine.
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The Energica bikes have a gear reducer, so they will be louder than the SR/F all across the spectrum. They make a much more distinct noise. You can hear it in some of the youtube videos out there. Some of the articles I read said Energica engineered it that way intentionally. They wanted it to make a unique noise, but also use a more standard sprocket size.
Sounds like a transmission with straight cut gears, or a gear drive timing set in a car.
The SR/F just makes a noise thats more like a hum than a whine.
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My SR/F sings at that speed range.
It growls if you whack the throttle off the line. I assume this is the belt/tooth noise.
A wet belt makes a similar growl even without going full throttle (because, you know, wet)
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AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
SHUT UP SHUT UP SHUT UP
Now that I have that out of my system, is anyone else seeing constant notifications from the app?
The bike completed charging overnight. I had intended to ride today so I charged it to 100%. My wife reminded me we were carpooling today so no rides today.
(https://i.ibb.co/R4SqRwd/IMG-0295.png)
As a side note, I just found the scheduled charging on the app. I can't wait to try having it stop the charge at a specific %.
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Has anyone played with the settings on the front or rear suspension of the SRF?
I weigh 185lbs and the bike feels a bit hard for me, like if it was set for maybe someone much heavier.
Before I change those settings, would there be any drawback? I don't plan on riding with a passenger ever.
Stability or handling issues if set too low/soft?
FWIW, the manual states that the suspension is set up for a 200 lb rider (180 lb rider wearing 20 lb of gear).
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My SR/F sings at that speed range.
It growls if you whack the throttle off the line. I assume this is the belt/tooth noise.
A wet belt makes a similar growl even without going full throttle (because, you know, wet)
I would check the belt tension. If it were me, I would loosen the belt to the lower end of the recommendation. It may help reduce the noise. I know by experience a tight belt is noisier.
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My SR/F sings at that speed range.
It growls if you whack the throttle off the line. I assume this is the belt/tooth noise.
A wet belt makes a similar growl even without going full throttle (because, you know, wet)
I would check the belt tension. If it were me, I would loosen the belt to the lower end of the recommendation. It may help reduce the noise. I know by experience a tight belt is noisier.
Do not loosen the belt unless you want to risk skipping a tooth and breaking it. The belts break in over a period of about 200 miles in my experience and that low groan goes away or is greatly reduced. Same thing to keep in mind on the suspension... until you hit about 400 miles, it's going to feel a bit more harsh than intended.
I'm approaching 500 miles on my personal bike (Boardwalk Red, Premium) and love it!
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I'm approaching 500 miles on my personal bike (Boardwalk Red, Premium) and love it!
Off topic but I see you're signed up for Refuel in the production class; are you bringing your SR/F to the mix?
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I am glad to hear that both, the belt noise and the perceived suspension stiffness may improve after a break-in period.
I will put on some miles this weekend and see what happens.
By the way, when I received my dealer demo with 50 miles on it, I had already purchased the tension gauge recommended elsewhere in this forum and it was set at about 70 kg.
Given that the range is 51 to 102, I figured that I should leave it alone and just monitor the effect of a few hundred miles on it.
Thanks for the info, ZeroBrian, it makes sense that after the break-in period, both suspension and belt noise would get a bit better.
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I'm approaching 500 miles on my personal bike (Boardwalk Red, Premium) and love it!
Off topic but I see you're signed up for Refuel in the production class; are you bringing your SR/F to the mix?
I was hoping to attend, but I'll be headed to Pikes Peak to support the race team there instead. Unfortunately, SpeedVentures is notorious for scheduling their event on the same exact day as Pikes Peak year after year despite complaints every year. Luckily, Kenyon Kluge and Jamie Perugini will be there with their SR/F bikes to set a fast time.
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I was hoping to attend, but I'll be headed to Pikes Peak to support the race team there instead. Unfortunately, SpeedVentures is notorious for scheduling their event on the same exact day as Pikes Peak year after year despite complaints every year. Luckily, Kenyon Kluge and Jamie Perugini will be there with their SR/F bikes to set a fast time.
Yeah it's incredibly frustrating to be pulled in two directions like that, especially with Seca in your back yard making it soooo enticing. I notice Kenyon is signed up on a 2018 SR and Jamie doesn't even list a bike. Good to know and we'll miss you this Sunday!
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I like to crunch numbers.
Total Miles on my SR/F 584
Total charge hours 61.77
(120V 11A ish)
9.4 miles per hour
Charge minutes/mile 6.3
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My SR/F sings at that speed range.
It growls if you whack the throttle off the line. I assume this is the belt/tooth noise.
A wet belt makes a similar growl even without going full throttle (because, you know, wet)
I would check the belt tension. If it were me, I would loosen the belt to the lower end of the recommendation. It may help reduce the noise. I know by experience a tight belt is noisier.
Do not loosen the belt unless you want to risk skipping a tooth and breaking it. The belts break in over a period of about 200 miles in my experience and that low groan goes away or is greatly reduced. Same thing to keep in mind on the suspension... until you hit about 400 miles, it's going to feel a bit more harsh than intended.
Can I quote you on that for the unofficial manual?
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Qualitatively, I can confirm that the suspension is more comfortable after 500+ miles.
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[/quote]
Do not loosen the belt unless you want to risk skipping a tooth and breaking it. The belts break in over a period of about 200 miles in my experience and that low groan goes away or is greatly reduced. Same thing to keep in mind on the suspension... until you hit about 400 miles, it's going to feel a bit more harsh than intended.
I'm approaching 500 miles on my personal bike (Boardwalk Red, Premium) and love it!
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I have the belt tension between 25-30kg which is the minimum range for my 2017 dsr and no sign of wear after 7000 miles. Tried different tensions but didn t like the noise caused by tighter belt. Do you have personal experience with belt damage while using the minimum tension?
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I got to test ride one yesterday at Randy’s cycle in Illinois. Compared to my 19 SR it looked really nice. Much more refined. Lots more torque. I rode it at 45% SOC, no trouble at all. 100% should be a lot more fun (scary).
I hope the charge tank is a 7.2. Looks like there is room. That would make up for lost range compared to my SR with power tank.
When I got back with 25% power, we plug in the dealers level 2 charger. Time to charge 1 hour and 20 minutes. It was charging at 5.8 kWhs.
Great bike.
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I hope the charge tank is a 7.2. Looks like there is room. That would make up for lost range compared to my SR with power tank.
Did you mean power tank there?
Anyway, I expect it will be a 3.6 battery in the power tank. They say the range will be 200 miles WITH the power tank (city) which is a couple of miles LESS than my 2017 SR with power tank, which is only 16.3 KWH total compared to the 18 KWH of the SR/F. The extra weight of the SR/F loses more than the 10% gain of the larger battery by Zero's own specs.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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Of coarse power tank.
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Oh, another observation.
The mirrors are not far enough outboard for me. If I have them aimed in far enough to see the lane behind me, I mostly see my own elbows.
On my bicycle I have bar-end mirrors and can see around my own fat body. I am going to have to look around for a solution that moves the mirrors further out.
Thanks for the reminder. I took off my mirror extenders from my DSR this morning. I'm picking up my SR/F on Monday and the DSR is going in on trade. I'll let you know how the extenders work out. Super stoked to get on the new bike, but I really hate to let the old one go. No room in the garage (or pocketbook) for two bikes.
Steve
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Thanks for the reminder. I took off my mirror extenders from my DSR this morning. I'm picking up my SR/F on Monday and the DSR is going in on trade. I'll let you know how the extenders work out. Super stoked to get on the new bike, but I really hate to let the old one go. No room in the garage (or pocketbook) for two bikes.
Steve
Congrats, Steve, tomorrow will be a big day: Enjoy that bad boy!
When you get a chance later on, could you please post your findings on the subject discussed on this thread?
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=9114.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=9114.0)
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The turn signal is a switch that slides side to side. It is located directly under the larger mode switch that also slides side to side. Operating the mode switch when intending to make a turn helps nobody. Even after I caught myself erroneously using the mode switch, I still hit it at the next several uses. I will continue to concentrate on using the proper switch and train my thumb.
The rear brake does not have as much authority as I expect. Granted, this is my first sporty bike. It might be a characteristic of the bike style. The front brakes *certainly* has authority in abundance. Does the ABS affect the rear?
Most of the braking is always in the front--by far--on any bike. Any yes, the ABS has to work with both brakes.
BTW, does the SR/F have self- cancelling turn signals?
-Don- Reno, NV
No self cancelling turn signals!
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I saw it cancel itself in one of the ride review videos. It takes about 1 minute for it to happen. Also you have to be moving forward for that minute being that it how it senses when to turn it off. So it is either a bug in the software why it is not cancelling or wasn't left on for over a minute while moving.
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I saw it cancel itself in one of the ride review videos. It takes about 1 minute for it to happen. Also you have to be moving forward for that minute being that it how it senses when to turn it off. So it is either a bug in the software why it is not cancelling or wasn't left on for over a minute while moving.
Left on for much more than a minute. Tried this several times yesterday and under different lean in turns. Nothing, had to cancel manually. I have put over 300 miles on the bike at this time almost all city and country back roads. Also have had two software update and still no self cancelling!
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The good news is you'll never have to take it in to get the self canceling turn signals fixed. :)
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I saw it cancel itself in one of the ride review videos. It takes about 1 minute for it to happen. Also you have to be moving forward for that minute being that it how it senses when to turn it off. So it is either a bug in the software why it is not cancelling or wasn't left on for over a minute while moving.
Left on for much more than a minute. Tried this several times yesterday and under different lean in turns. Nothing, had to cancel manually. I have put over 300 miles on the bike at this time almost all city and country back roads. Also have had two software update and still no self cancelling!
All (SR/F) bikes have self-cancelling turn signals. It is not a time-based cancelling, it's distance and does not look at lean angle to detect the turn (at the time of this writing). The feature is aimed to prevent running down the highway/freeway with your turn signal on after a merge with traffic. The feature is not aimed to be used to replace manual cancelling around town. It's a safety net.
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I saw it cancel itself in one of the ride review videos. It takes about 1 minute for it to happen. Also you have to be moving forward for that minute being that it how it senses when to turn it off. So it is either a bug in the software why it is not cancelling or wasn't left on for over a minute while moving.
Left on for much more than a minute. Tried this several times yesterday and under different lean in turns. Nothing, had to cancel manually. I have put over 300 miles on the bike at this time almost all city and country back roads. Also have had two software update and still no self cancelling!
All bikes have self-cancelling turn signals. It is not a time-based cancelling, it's distance and does not look at lean angle to detect the turn (at the time of this writing). The feature is aimed to prevent running down the highway/freeway with your turn signal on after a merge with traffic. The feature is not aimed to be used to replace manual cancelling around town. It's a safety net.
I've never had a bike with self-cancelling signals and ive been riding 30 years. Seems my 2017 dsr signals will stay on for days if i never canceled them. Lol
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I just came back from Elk Grove PowerSports (south of Sacramento, CA) I rode my SR there and I am now on my way back to Auburn.
Anyway, they have the red standard model. They now tell me that this is the only one they have (I was previously told they had two by another sales guy).
Anyway, I took a closer look at the bike this time. It looks like the belt will be very easy to change on the SR/F. Plenty of room by the motor, nothing in the way. Looks like all that has to be done is a rear wheel removal to change the belt.
-Don- (now re-charging in Rocklin, CA)
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Left on for much more than a minute. Tried this several times yesterday and under different lean in turns. Nothing, had to cancel manually. I have put over 300 miles on the bike at this time almost all city and country back roads. Also have had two software update and still no self cancelling!
Today, I tested the self cancelling turn signal feature on my SR/F and it works just fine.
I was going steady at about 40 mph and turned the left turn on and kept going straight.
I did not time it but it felt close to a minute, maybe a bit less and it was off, like magic.
So, the feature works, probably on most of them.
Wonder if there is a hardware failure on the timer that is responsible for counting up to a minute to turn it off?
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Got my SR/F Premium on Monday, Traded my 2016 DSR for it. Some initial observations/comparisons. First my power use on two commutes is about the same as my DSR (13K vs 14.4K battery). Handling is way better on the SR/F, I am way more confident in turns. Highway is also night and day better on the SR/F, extra weight, size and more rubber, way less buffeting, even without a windscreen (my DSR had a Mad Stad Shield). I like the SR/F seat better than the Corbin or Stock seats on the DSR on the commute. I think acceleration feels similar between the two. I never really found the DSR lacking there, and the additional weight on the SR/F seems to somewhat minimize the feel of the extra torque (but there is more than enough!). I did not realize I needed cruise control, but I do, I used it a bunch on my first two commutes (100mi round trip). So far, very, very happy with the trade offs, I never rode in the dirt anyway with the DSR, and with traction control, gravel should not be a problem on the SR/F and that's about as far as I go.
Oh, and I was surprised that the riding position on the SR/F has not bothered me at all, I was concerned that the forward lean and extra leg tuck would bother me, but nope, at least not yet. I tend to have problems with my hands going to sleep on the DSR, I've not noticed that problem yet with the SR/F. I like the lower seating position as well on the SR/F, my feet are really solid on the ground on both sides flat footed, it feels good. I am 6'1" and on the DSR I always had a little bend on the angles when having both feet down at a stop.
I love this bike.
Steve
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Got my SR/F Premium on Monday, Traded my 2016 DSR for it. Some initial observations/comparisons. First my power use on two commutes is about the same as my DSR (13K vs 14.4K battery). Handling is way better on the SR/F, I am way more confident in turns. Highway is also night and day better on the SR/F, extra weight, size and more rubber, way less buffeting, even without a windscreen (my DSR had a Mad Stad Shield). I like the SR/F seat better than the Corbin or Stock seats on the DSR on the commute. I think acceleration feels similar between the two. I never really found the DSR lacking there, and the additional weight on the SR/F seems to somewhat minimize the feel of the extra torque (but there is more than enough!). I did not realize I needed cruise control, but I do, I used it a bunch on my first two commutes (100mi round trip). So far, very, very happy with the trade offs, I never rode in the dirt anyway with the DSR, and with traction control, gravel should not be a problem on the SR/F and that's about as far as I go.
Oh, and I was surprised that the riding position on the SR/F has not bothered me at all, I was concerned that the forward lean and extra leg tuck would bother me, but nope, at least not yet. I tend to have problems with my hands going to sleep on the DSR, I've not noticed that problem yet with the SR/F. I like the lower seating position as well on the SR/F, my feet are really solid on the ground on both sides flat footed, it feels good. I am 6'1" and on the DSR I always had a little bend on the angles when having both feet down at a stop.
I love this bike.
Steve
That is great, Steve!
I do like mine too and it is getting better as I put some miles on it: The growl is almost gone (not sure if it was the belt too tight) but the noise is definitely getting better.
Also, the rear brake has more stopping power now.
I am toying with the idea of replacing the handlebar to get a posture a bit more vertical but haven't decided yet. It will be a lot of work to get the wires extended and I don't want to do a crappy job.
By the way, can you report about the tank lid gap on your bike? This thread has pictures and lots of info on it:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=9114.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=9114.0)
I am just dying to know if Zero corrected that design flaw that affected all early deliveries including dealer demos (mine is one of them).
Thanks a bunch
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I just took delivery last Friday. The gap is still there. But it doesn't bother me that much. No one that has seen the bike has even noticed it.
I had the tank apart doing a vinyl wrap, I looked at the mechanism while I had it off. There really isn't a good way to DIY fix it.
I've got about 250 miles on mine so far. Absolutely *love* the bike. I did find the limits of what the battery will tolerate as far as heat. I took delivery the next major city over. So my first ride was 65 miles of mostly 75mph highway. I went pretty easy on it until I got close to home. When i knew I was fine on battery I started doing full throttle pulls. I got home with about 18 percent left. Threw it on the charger for about 15 minutes so my dad could go ride it. After he was done having fun, I put it back on the charger for about a half an hour. It was charging at 6kw, and when I disconnected the battery was right at the edge of its thermal limit. Ambient temp was 95+ degrees. After about a half hour of sitting it was ready to go.
Girlfriend and I went for about a half hour ride on it.
The ability to schedule charge times and SoC target directly on the bike is really slick. Plug it in when I'm done riding, it starts charging at 2am, is done by 4am, ready to go in the morning. I was trying to do the scheduling from the charger, which makes the screen stay on. So its definitely better to run the schedules from the bike. I haven't used the wall outlet charger that came with the bike yet. The iPhone app is a little chatty. Had to turn notifications completely off, otherwise it wakes me up every time the charging starts and stops. I'd honestly say if there is one thing that could use improvement, thats it. Its definitely fun to see that 250 miles has cost a staggering $3 in electricity.
Same thing someone else pointed out, as the bike breaks in, the belt growl is getting much better. Dealer told me to make sure I check tension a few times during the first few hundred miles and tighten if needed.
Its fun to ride. It definitely gets some looks when people hear it.
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I just took delivery last Friday. The gap is still there. But it doesn't bother me that much. No one that has seen the bike has even noticed it.
I had the tank apart doing a vinyl wrap, I looked at the mechanism while I had it off. There really isn't a good way to DIY fix it.
I've got about 250 miles on mine so far. Absolutely *love* the bike. I did find the limits of what the battery will tolerate as far as heat. I took delivery the next major city over. So my first ride was 65 miles of mostly 75mph highway. I went pretty easy on it until I got close to home. When i knew I was fine on battery I started doing full throttle pulls. I got home with about 18 percent left. Threw it on the charger for about 15 minutes so my dad could go ride it. After he was done having fun, I put it back on the charger for about a half an hour. It was charging at 6kw, and when I disconnected the battery was right at the edge of its thermal limit. Ambient temp was 95+ degrees. After about a half hour of sitting it was ready to go.
Girlfriend and I went for about a half hour ride on it.
The ability to schedule charge times and SoC target directly on the bike is really slick. Plug it in when I'm done riding, it starts charging at 2am, is done by 4am, ready to go in the morning. I was trying to do the scheduling from the charger, which makes the screen stay on. So its definitely better to run the schedules from the bike. I haven't used the wall outlet charger that came with the bike yet. The iPhone app is a little chatty. Had to turn notifications completely off, otherwise it wakes me up every time the charging starts and stops. I'd honestly say if there is one thing that could use improvement, thats it. Its definitely fun to see that 250 miles has cost a staggering $3 in electricity.
Same thing someone else pointed out, as the bike breaks in, the belt growl is getting much better. Dealer told me to make sure I check tension a few times during the first few hundred miles and tighten if needed.
Its fun to ride. It definitely gets some looks when people hear it.
Thanks for the update, TireFryer!
I see the factory has not yet updated the part(s) to fix the gap issue. It is not a show-stopper but it would be nice to eliminate it.
I too removed the tank and actually made some reversible modifications in an attempt to lower the lid. I succeeded but the 2 pointy ends of the lid (facing forward) got in the way and rubbed against the other side when opening it and I gave up and put it back the way it was.
Now, if I cut a bit of those tips and reshape them, it would actually work but then when closed (as it is just about all the time) the gap at said tips would be wider than they are pre-modification.
So, I decided to wait. As you pointed out, people don't seem to notice.
As for the belt, yes, mine is making less growl now as I put more miles on it and suspension is a bit softer too.
The only other thing that could use some improvement is the kickstand: it was a little bit too short for my liking so I built a bootie from aircraft grade aluminum I had left over from an old project and now is 7/8 of an inch longer, providing the correct amount of leaning.
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I just took delivery last Friday. The gap is still there. But it doesn't bother me that much. No one that has seen the bike has even noticed it.
I had the tank apart doing a vinyl wrap, I looked at the mechanism while I had it off. There really isn't a good way to DIY fix it.
I've got about 250 miles on mine so far. Absolutely *love* the bike. I did find the limits of what the battery will tolerate as far as heat. I took delivery the next major city over. So my first ride was 65 miles of mostly 75mph highway. I went pretty easy on it until I got close to home. When i knew I was fine on battery I started doing full throttle pulls. I got home with about 18 percent left. Threw it on the charger for about 15 minutes so my dad could go ride it. After he was done having fun, I put it back on the charger for about a half an hour. It was charging at 6kw, and when I disconnected the battery was right at the edge of its thermal limit. Ambient temp was 95+ degrees. After about a half hour of sitting it was ready to go.
Girlfriend and I went for about a half hour ride on it.
The ability to schedule charge times and SoC target directly on the bike is really slick. Plug it in when I'm done riding, it starts charging at 2am, is done by 4am, ready to go in the morning. I was trying to do the scheduling from the charger, which makes the screen stay on. So its definitely better to run the schedules from the bike. I haven't used the wall outlet charger that came with the bike yet. The iPhone app is a little chatty. Had to turn notifications completely off, otherwise it wakes me up every time the charging starts and stops. I'd honestly say if there is one thing that could use improvement, thats it. Its definitely fun to see that 250 miles has cost a staggering $3 in electricity.
Same thing someone else pointed out, as the bike breaks in, the belt growl is getting much better. Dealer told me to make sure I check tension a few times during the first few hundred miles and tighten if needed.
Its fun to ride. It definitely gets some looks when people hear it.
Thanks for the update, TireFryer!
I see the factory has not yet updated the part(s) to fix the gap issue. It is not a show-stopper but it would be nice to eliminate it.
I too removed the tank and actually made some reversible modifications in an attempt to lower the lid. I succeeded but the 2 pointy ends of the lid (facing forward) got in the way and rubbed against the other side when opening it and I gave up and put it back the way it was.
Now, if I cut a bit of those tips and reshape them, it would actually work but then when closed (as it is just about all the time) the gap at said tips would be wider than they are pre-modification.
So, I decided to wait. As you pointed out, people don't seem to notice.
As for the belt, yes, mine is making less growl now as I put more miles on it and suspension is a bit softer too.
The only other thing that could use some improvement is the kickstand: it was a little bit too short for my liking so I built a bootie from aircraft grade aluminum I had left over from an old project and now is 7/8 of an inch longer, providing the correct amount of leaning.
I forgot to mention, the ride is a little hard to my liking. I was going to investigate softening up the suspension a bit. I've never messed with stock settings on my bikes suspension, it may be a good time to start!
My tank has the same issue.
Steve
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I forgot to mention, the ride is a little hard to my liking. I was going to investigate softening up the suspension a bit. I've never messed with stock settings on my bikes suspension, it may be a good time to start!
My tank has the same issue.
Steve
Here is the deal on the suspension: I was ready to tweak it on mine and someone told me they had seen some softening on his after some mileage, so I decided to wait and see.
Sure enough, it gets softer after some riding.
Now, the manual says they leave the factory calibrated for a 200 lbs rider (all suited up) and if you are significantly more or less, you might want to change it to suit you right away but if you are not too far from this number, you might want to wait intil you have a few hundred miles on it.
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I forgot to mention, the ride is a little hard to my liking. I was going to investigate softening up the suspension a bit. I've never messed with stock settings on my bikes suspension, it may be a good time to start!
My tank has the same issue.
Steve
Here is the deal on the suspension: I was ready to tweak it on mine and someone told me they had seen some softening on his after some mileage, so I decided to wait and see.
Sure enough, it gets softer after some riding.
Now, the manual says they leave the factory calibrated for a 200 lbs rider (all suited up) and if you are significantly more or less, you might want to change it to suit you right away but if you are not too far from this number, you might want to wait intil you have a few hundred miles on it.
Cool. As luck would have it, I am 210 geared up (close enough!).
Steve
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Can also confirm, the suspension does soften up. I think I've seen 500 miles for full break in tossed around.
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Just an FYI, looks like the log format on the SR/F is no longer compatible with the online parser. Not a huge surprise given the platform changes.
Steve
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Pretty accurate and fair first ride review of the Zero SR/F: https://www.cycleworld.com/2020-zero-sr-f-electric-motorcycle-first-ride/
(The only thing I caught that wasn't completely accurate is the 1 hour charge time...that's only if you have the Premium with the additional 6kw Rapid Charger and even then you need a 12kw Level 2 charger to achieve that)
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Pretty accurate and fair first ride review of the Zero SR/F: https://www.cycleworld.com/2020-zero-sr-f-electric-motorcycle-first-ride/
(The only thing I caught that wasn't completely accurate is the 1 hour charge time...that's only if you have the Premium with the additional 6kw Rapid Charger and even then you need a 12kw Level 2 charger to achieve that)
What happens when the 12 KW charger is plugged into a 8 KW max J-1772?
Does the station trip or is there something in there to drop the current to whatever it can handle?
-Don- Auburn, CA
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The level 2 charging protocol communicates between the bike and the charger for power available. It would just use 8kW.
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Dealer told me to make sure I check tension a few times during the first few hundred miles and tighten if needed.
I should probably figure out this belt tension check that people talk about.
What do I need to know? Do I buy a tool?
I recall an app that would record the twang when you plucked the belt. Is that applicable to the SR/F?
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I forgot to mention, the ride is a little hard to my liking. I was going to investigate softening up the suspension a bit.!
Steve, just to comment on the ride - I did notice a breakin period on the suspension. The first 400-500 miles were rather rigid. Now it is noticeably smoother.
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Pretty accurate and fair first ride review of the Zero SR/F: https://www.cycleworld.com/2020-zero-sr-f-electric-motorcycle-first-ride/
(The only thing I caught that wasn't completely accurate is the 1 hour charge time...that's only if you have the Premium with the additional 6kw Rapid Charger and even then you need a 12kw Level 2 charger to achieve that)
I note when looking for a date it says two hours ago. Have to ask are you with cycle World? I would expect a date like a calendar.
They left out the size of the rear wheel in the specs. at least at this time
What is the mph at that 4000 rpm where max hp is reached?
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Have to ask are you with cycle World?
LOL...no. Just hungry for any and all info on the SR/F and other electric motorcycles. I was a little surprised when I saw the Cycle World article online and even more surprised at the amount of detail compared to other sites.
I would still like to see some kind of shootout done with the SR/F, the Strike, and the Energicas (EVA and/or EsseEsse9). I'm going to test ride the Energicas this weekend just to do my due diligence but based on features and warranty, I'm expecting to stick with the SR/F as my new daily commuter. Then again, never say never...trying to keep an open mind.
I do know that the Strike is a non-starter for me as a daily rider...too aggressive of a riding position for my old back and no information on warranty or how to obtain service if needed.
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That Cycle World article says
We were also wowed by the Zero’s acceleration (it pulled 0 to 60 mph in 1.57 seconds in Sport Mode)
That can’t be right. Isn’t it closer to 3s?
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I question that 0-60 time as well. Everything else I've read points to a 3.5s 0-60 time. I guess it's possible the 3.5s is in Street mode and 1.57s was in Sport mode but yeah...definitely make you go "hmmmm". 1.57s 0-60 times would mean the SR/F is comparable to Lightning's LS-218 or better (I don't recall their actual 0-60 time, just that it was ridiculously low).
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Dealer told me to make sure I check tension a few times during the first few hundred miles and tighten if needed.
I should probably figure out this belt tension check that people talk about.
What do I need to know? Do I buy a tool?
I recall an app that would record the twang when you plucked the belt. Is that applicable to the SR/F?
The app is applicable on any bike if they specify the frequency in the owners manual. I know Zero has the specs in their owners manuals. Or you can buy a tool on amazon.
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That Cycle World article says We were also wowed by the Zero’s acceleration (it pulled 0 to 60 mph in 1.57 seconds in Sport Mode)
That can’t be right. Isn’t it closer to 3s?
It's very possible they got that number from a dyno which would be very misleading but I've seen it done. No way to pop a wheelie on a dyno.
I just read the cycleworls article and that's exactly how they got that number. Not that hard to believe. Lightning LS218 got their numbers the same way.
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The level 2 charging protocol communicates between the bike and the charger for power available. It would just use 8kW.
That's great. But I have heard of guys overloading stations and the J- station goes dead as if a circuit breaker tripped somewhere.
So when this happens, what is going on?
-Don- Auburn, CA
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@DonTom
When overloading occurs, the onboard charger doesn't respect the PWM signal the controller sends out.
A controller in an EVSE will send out a specific signal indicating the stations max charge current.
This signal is a guideline, and should be respected, but not all chargers do.
IIRC (and do feel free to correct me on this, those that have correcting facts) DigiNow is one of such chargers.. They require you to manually set the amperage level of their charger.. if this is set higher than the EVSE, the breaker will trip.
There could also be situations where the EVSE is improperly configured and sends a signal of higher A than the breaker is calibrated for. (ie if the breaker is 16A and the charger is set at 16A, making the breaker release in about 1 hour)..
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... to manually set the amperage level of their charger.. if this is set higher than the EVSE, the breaker will trip.
And the max amperage of an EVSE is dynamic. I had one here that typically gave 8A on three phases each without problems, and the other days tripped when only pulling 4A. I assume the station communication signal will have sent this info, but my charger is (currently still) not able to read this.
@DonTom: The SR/F is different, as Zero has (probably) correctly implemented the full charging protocol including the reading of this max amp signal. DigiNows do not read that signal as do currently no other third party solution for the Zero SR/DSR/DS/S/FX/FXS line of bikes.
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I forgot to mention, the ride is a little hard to my liking. I was going to investigate softening up the suspension a bit.!
Steve, just to comment on the ride - I did notice a breakin period on the suspension. The first 400-500 miles were rather rigid. Now it is noticeably smoother.
Thanks, I am close to 400 miles now and can already feel the difference (big difference really). FYI, I've had no problems with charging stations at work, and my JuiceBox Pro 40 at home. I can top off the bike on both ends of my 50 mile commute in 75 minutes. I like being able to limit the SOC on charging as well. No problems so far.
Steve
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I forgot to mention, the ride is a little hard to my liking. I was going to investigate softening up the suspension a bit.!
Steve, just to comment on the ride - I did notice a breakin period on the suspension. The first 400-500 miles were rather rigid. Now it is noticeably smoother.
Thanks, I am close to 400 miles now and can already feel the difference (big difference really). FYI, I've had no problems with charging stations at work, and my JuiceBox Pro 40 at home. I can top off the bike on both ends of my 50 mile commute in 75 minutes. I like being able to limit the SOC on charging as well. No problems so far.
Steve
Are you guys sure that the suspension getting smoother isn't just the result of you getting used to it?😄
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@Neur_User is right. The charge station has dynamic limits, and some stations will limit more than others. Both the 6kW charge tank Zero sells and the SR/F charge modules read and observe that signal.
I had some issues with my charge tank on my DSR where the bike would stop charging after a while at work. Zero told me they found some stations expect the charger to ramp current up and down faster, and they had to update the firmware to correct it. One firmware update later and the Chargepoint station at work was happy :)
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@Neur_User is right. The charge station has dynamic limits, and some stations will limit more than others. Both the 6kW charge tank Zero sells and the SR/F charge modules read and observe that signal.
I had some issues with my charge tank on my DSR where the bike would stop charging after a while at work. Zero told me they found some stations expect the charger to ramp current up and down faster, and they had to update the firmware to correct it. One firmware update later and the Chargepoint station at work was happy :)
I wonder if that happened to me as well.
Please read the very top check-in here (https://www.plugshare.com/location/13814), by me.
I was using to Zero Quick chargers with the on-board, around 3KW on my SR. It took exactly an hour for it to shut down.
I have not yet updated my firmware. Its still on the same firmware when I purchased the bike in 2017.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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0-60 kph in 1.57†is what they meant perhaps?
0-60 mph that fast is 2+g, just insane.
More likely it’s a typo.
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0-60 kph in 1.57†is what they meant perhaps?
0-60 mph that fast is 2+g, just insane.
More likely it’s a typo.
It was measured on a dyno. No worry of wheelie or burnout.
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An "Alternative Facts" dyno?
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A basic Zero-to-60 acceleration test on a dyno does not include the entire mass of the bike, only the mass of the rear wheel, drive mechanism, and the rollers its strapped to. To apply Newton's Second Law of Motion, the magnitude of the net force must be applied as rolling resistance/load, or numeric calculation. Aerodynamic drag will also affect performance.
The numbers do seem a tad optimistic...
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Does anybody know the color paint code for the motor/plastic piece where the footpegs attach?
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Does the SR/F have a centerstand?
And if not, will one likely be available for it?
-Don- Reno, NV
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Does the SR/F have a centerstand?
And if not, will one likely be available for it?
-Don- Reno, NV
I thought I saw a picture of a provision for swingarm spools but I cannot find it now.
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This is just a general range observation that all of the experienced Zero riders already know, but since I have actual numbers with my SR/F I wanted to throw it out.
My typical one way commute ride is 28 miles of interstate and 7 miles of surface streets.
Yesterday, I got in the high speed land and kept up with traffic. 75 to 85+mph most of the time. A little bit at 40mph due to construction. I went from 93% SoC to 42% for 51% total capacity consumed.
Today, I stayed in the second lane from the left and kept up with traffic. 65+ most of the time. A little bit at 30mph due to construction. 92% down to 52% on arrival for 40% capacity consumed.
Same trip in nearly identical traffic. 51% used at 85+mph. 40% used at 65+mph.
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Meh, that sucks pretty bad. Your round trip commute is only 70 miles, yet you must charge at work unless you force yourself to go slower than traffic (an impossibility from a safety and psychological standpoint).
The FX 6.5 goes 70 miles on surface streets. It's severely disappointing that even with more than double the battery capacity, you still can't do that on the freeway, as would be trivial for any "normal" bike.
I would have thought that a bigger motor would be more efficient, but maybe electric motors are different than ICE in that regard. Couldn't they do something in the firmware to improve range?
What if you use ECO mode? Or fit windscreen and more fairings?
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The round trip is doable from 90% if I behave.
And if I misbehave and am short on juice for the return trip, I have a L2 station I can use at the building 2 doors down. I even stopped bringing my charge cord to work.
But you are right, it is so easy to use the left lane to pass a slower driver and then stay there doing the higher speed.
I would *love* a fairing with better aero.
ECO mode is a definite NO-GO for me on the highway. I don't mind the softer acceleration or the heavier regen. But I simply cannot accept the capped top speed of 75mph. Natural navigation involves safely moving from lane to lane as traffic dictates. But if you move into the left lane to pass a truck and then higher speed tragic approaches from behind, you simply cannot zip up the speed to clear the traffic and move back over. I am not going to be that guy riding slower in the left lane.
I do use ECO when I am on the parkway with its 30mph limit. Many of my miles are spent in this recreational mode.
But someone needs to make a decent fairing. Or more.
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I test rode the SR/F here in Reno yesterday. The horn problem that I mentioned here previously has been fixed.
Anyway, this is supposed to be the premium model. But it has no "fly screen". But it does show having heated grips on the screen. Is there a way to tell if it's a standard or premium SR/F by lookng at the bike?
What does the fly screen look like? I cannot find it shown anywhere. Can somebody here with the premium model please take a photo and post it here?
Also, my biggest complaint was the foot pegs are up way too high. I noticed all four pegs are on a round plate with three screws. Can it be rotated to change to position of the pegs? There is no mention of such in the SR/F manual.
Other than that, I had no issue with the riding position.
I was impressed with the sport mode. In fact, I found it to have ridiculously fast acceleration. So fast, I doubt if I would ever even use the sport mode.
Bike felt a lot heavier than my two Zeros. I guess that is because it is.
-Don- Reno, NV
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I test rode the SR/F here in Reno yesterday. The horn problem that I mentioned here previously has been fixed.
Anyway, this is supposed to be the premium model. But it has no "fly screen". But it does show having heated grips on the screen. Is there a way to tell if it's a standard or premium SR/F by lookng at the bike?
What does the fly screen look like? I cannot find it shown anywhere. Can somebody here with the premium model please take a photo and post it here?
Also, my biggest complaint was the foot pegs are up way too high. I noticed all four pegs are on a round plate with three screws. Can it be rotated to change to position of the pegs? There is no mention of such in the SR/F manual.
Other than that, I had no issue with the riding position.
I was impressed with the sport mode. In fact, I found it to have ridiculously fast acceleration. So fast, I doubt if I would ever even use the sport mode.
Bike felt a lot heavier than my two Zeros. I guess that is because it is.
-Don- Reno, NV
it's silly that they even call it a fly screen. From all the pictures I've seen, it barely sticks up 6" above the headlight.
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Here's a pic without the fly screen. Definately looks better with.
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This is just a general range observation that all of the experienced Zero riders already know, but since I have actual numbers with my SR/F I wanted to throw it out.
My typical one way commute ride is 28 miles of interstate and 7 miles of surface streets.
Yesterday, I got in the high speed land and kept up with traffic. 75 to 85+mph most of the time. A little bit at 40mph due to construction. I went from 93% SoC to 42% for 51% total capacity consumed.
Today, I stayed in the second lane from the left and kept up with traffic. 65+ most of the time. A little bit at 30mph due to construction. 92% down to 52% on arrival for 40% capacity consumed.
Same trip in nearly identical traffic. 51% used at 85+mph. 40% used at 65+mph.
You used 51% of the battery going 28 highway miles and 7 street miles? That sucks, even if you were going 75-85 mph on the highway.
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Those range values do sound bad, though any period of 85mph+ speeds are absolutely going to rip through your battery. Speed vs. consumption is always a steep curve with EVs. If it’s not too personal, could you post your weight? The rider is a significant contributor to the overall mass the bike has to move, so I’m a bit curious.
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Yeah...the range reported here is a real bummer. This has made me re-evaluate the feasibility of owning one of these bikes :(
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Yes, 51% on Monday, using much throttle keeping up with the high speed lane traffic. 85+mph at times. The majority between 75 and 85.
Yesterday 40% for the same trip staying (mostly) out of the high speed lane.
Today, same trip saw only 36% used BUT this trip included accident traffic so 15 minutes was at 10ish mph. Lets say 3 miles that would have been at 65 were at 10 instead. I was working on keeping in the more reasonable traffic and only passing the idiots cautious drivers doing 55 on the interstate.
I do log all of the economy data on a spreadsheet (i do that for my ICE vehicles too). I sure which I could get at the actual watts data both on the charge and the ride.
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Same trip in nearly identical traffic. 51% used at 85+mph. 40% used at 65+mph.
This doesn't surprise me. During my demo of the SR/F, I started 56% and went 30 miles at guessing 40 mph and returned with 22%. I did a lot of full throttle pulls in there as well. 34% used at 40mph seems to be about on par with what you are getting as well.
The limited range issue is starting to make me wonder about my Zero ownership. I don't mind it so much on the FX, but certainly makes me wonder about keeping my DSR.
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Same trip in nearly identical traffic. 51% used at 85+mph. 40% used at 65+mph.
This doesn't surprise me. During my demo of the SR/F, I started 56% and went 30 miles at guessing 40 mph and returned with 22%. I did a lot of full throttle pulls in there as well. 34% used at 40mph seems to be about on par with what you are getting as well.
The limited range issue is starting to make me wonder about my Zero ownership. I don't mind it so much on the FX, but certainly makes me wonder about keeping my DSR.
On my 2017 dsr, I typically get 130+ miles around town averaging 35-40mph. It cost $1.04 to recharge from empty. That's less than 1 cent per mile. A typical ice bike will cost 6-8 times that much just in fuel. My dsr is perfect for my intended use.
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Here's a pic without the fly screen. Definately looks better with.
Thanks. I guess it's called a fly screen because that is about the size of it. So it does have it and is the premium model. It's just so mickey-mouse that nobody will even notice it as a screen at all.
Can the seat be raised? I took another look at the bike today and I see the pegs cannot be adjusted. But if the seat can be raised a couple of inches, that will help me with the pegs being up too high.
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
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Zero has both a seat that is almost an inch higher and one that is an inch lower than the standard seat.
AF1racing has the part up on their website
https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=97894&sku=ZM27-08107&description=Zero+MC%27s+Driver+Saddle+Tall+%2D+ZM27%2D08096 (https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=97894&sku=ZM27-08107&description=Zero+MC%27s+Driver+Saddle+Tall+%2D+ZM27%2D08096)
I guess it would indeed solve any issues one would have with cramped legs.
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Zero has both a seat that is almost an inch higher and one that is an inch lower than the standard seat.
AF1racing has the part up on their website
https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=97894&sku=ZM27-08107&description=Zero+MC%27s+Driver+Saddle+Tall+%2D+ZM27%2D08096 (https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=97894&sku=ZM27-08107&description=Zero+MC%27s+Driver+Saddle+Tall+%2D+ZM27%2D08096)
I guess it would indeed solve any issues one would have with cramped legs.
I bought one of those seats from AF1 a couple of weeks ago and put it side-by-side with the original on a table and it is indeed about 1 inch taller but I got to say, I did not feel any difference while riding the bike.
One inch is just not enough increase in height to make a noticeable difference (perhaps a minuscule one) but at least it was a move in the right direction.
Now, I didn't change it to alleviate cramped legs, just trying to have the legs less bent while sitting on the bike. I am 6' tall.
I am afraid lowering the pegs would be the only solution but it doesn't bother me too much at this time.
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Zero has both a seat that is almost an inch higher and one that is an inch lower than the standard seat.
AF1racing has the part up on their website
https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=97894&sku=ZM27-08107&description=Zero+MC%27s+Driver+Saddle+Tall+%2D+ZM27%2D08096 (https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=97894&sku=ZM27-08107&description=Zero+MC%27s+Driver+Saddle+Tall+%2D+ZM27%2D08096)
I guess it would indeed solve any issues one would have with cramped legs.
I bought one of those seats from AF1 a couple of weeks ago and put it side-by-side with the original on a table and it is indeed about 1 inch taller but I got to say, I did not feel any difference while riding the bike.
One inch is just not enough increase in height to make a noticeable difference (perhaps a minuscule one) but at least it was a move in the right direction.
Now, I didn't change it to alleviate cramped legs, just trying to have the legs less bent while sitting on the bike. I am 6' tall.
I am afraid lowering the pegs would be the only solution but it doesn't bother me too much at this time.
There are various generic seat pads available on the market that would also help to raise the seating position a bit. Things such as Air Hawk pads, pads made of memory foam, wooden bead pads and sheepskin covers. You could also take your seat to an auto upholster and have it recovered over thicker foam.
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Tipped my SF/F over in the driveway this morning. It just rolled off the stand (thought it was flat, but not flat enough). No damage and I was able to stand it up on my own. Not thrilled with myself. Anyone else notice any instability on the stand on the SR/F?
Steve
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Anyone else notice any instability on the stand on the SR/F?
Steve
Steve, I used a small bungee loop as a parking brake.
Google 6" bungee ball for a pic.
Worked great. I kept in in my jacket picket. I assume it is on the side of the road somewhere. ::)
I am looking at getting another and keeping it in a more secure location because it does exactly solve the problem.
On a side note, since I put the garage door opener on my keyring, I have not needed to park on my slightly inclined driveway.
Edit: it does not take much incline to make the bike think about rolling off the stand.
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Tipped my SF/F over in the driveway this morning. It just rolled off the stand (thought it was flat, but not flat enough). No damage and I was able to stand it up on my own. Not thrilled with myself. Anyone else notice any instability on the stand on the SR/F?
Steve
My dealership warned me about it, and suggested I use hairbands over the front brake/throttle as a makeshift parking brake. It works well.
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Tipped my SF/F over in the driveway this morning. It just rolled off the stand (thought it was flat, but not flat enough). No damage and I was able to stand it up on my own. Not thrilled with myself. Anyone else notice any instability on the stand on the SR/F?
Steve
Was the bike facing down or up the slight incline?
Wondering if the risk is the same regardless of the incline's direction.
One would think that if the bike is pointing up a (slight) hill the chances of it tipping is less than if it is the other way, just because the kick stand can collapse if the bike moves slightly forward and the kick stand does not.
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I have been using a Velcro strip around my front brake lever for years to keep my Zero rolling down an incline. Zero should really come up with a parking brake solution, as many inexpensive automatic scooters use. ???
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Zero sells this: https://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_4&products_id=205
I bought one to go with the SR/F I had on order but it works just as well on my EsseEsse9. Only $10 for a slick little doodad.
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Zero has both a seat that is almost an inch higher and one that is an inch lower than the standard seat.
AF1racing has the part up on their website
https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=97894&sku=ZM27-08107&description=Zero+MC%27s+Driver+Saddle+Tall+%2D+ZM27%2D08096 (https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=97894&sku=ZM27-08107&description=Zero+MC%27s+Driver+Saddle+Tall+%2D+ZM27%2D08096)
I guess it would indeed solve any issues one would have with cramped legs.
I bought one of those seats from AF1 a couple of weeks ago and put it side-by-side with the original on a table and it is indeed about 1 inch taller but I got to say, I did not feel any difference while riding the bike.
One inch is just not enough increase in height to make a noticeable difference (perhaps a minuscule one) but at least it was a move in the right direction.
Now, I didn't change it to alleviate cramped legs, just trying to have the legs less bent while sitting on the bike. I am 6' tall.
I am afraid lowering the pegs would be the only solution but it doesn't bother me too much at this time.
Maybe someone can design an adaptor to lower the foot pegs. I used to be in the business of building accessories but those days have passed
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Zero sells this: https://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_4&products_id=205
I bought one to go with the SR/F I had on order but it works just well on my EsseEsse9. Only $10 for a slick little doodad.
My dealer has one that I looked at. But with the limited storage available on the SR/F, I did not want to dedicate that much room. I saw the suggestion for a hair tie. My wife has those in abundance. If they work, I'll keep one on the mirror and a few in the tank storage.
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Tipped my SF/F over in the driveway this morning. It just rolled off the stand (thought it was flat, but not flat enough). No damage and I was able to stand it up on my own. Not thrilled with myself. Anyone else notice any instability on the stand on the SR/F?
Steve
The lack of a parking brake on a $20,000 electric bike is mind boggling.
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My dealer has one that I looked at. But with the limited storage available on the SR/F, I did not want to dedicate that much room. I saw the suggestion for a hair tie. My wife has those in abundance. If they work, I'll keep one on the mirror and a few in the tank storage.
I find it fits fine in my jacket pocket while riding to and from work. Whenever I park the bike I slip it over the brake and throttle. I haven't run across a need to store it on the bike or in my backpack/tailbag.
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Tipped my SF/F over in the driveway this morning. It just rolled off the stand (thought it was flat, but not flat enough). No damage and I was able to stand it up on my own. Not thrilled with myself. Anyone else notice any instability on the stand on the SR/F?
Steve
The lack of a parking brake on a $20,000 electric bike is mind boggling.
It is a bit odd. Even my daughter's $3500 (used) NC700X DCT has a parking brake, all the Honda DCT models do from top to bottom. And they are extremely handy. That said... I hardly ever use them for parking. But my DCT bikes also have a center stand installed as well.
I have to say (minus the SR/F) there is definitely a "cutting corners" feel on the Zero's I've ridden compared to say Honda models. The DSR/SR's remind me quality wise of Honda's entry level bikes at a third of the price. I guess you pay a premium for that electric tech. The SR/F is different of course, feeling more like a $20k bike in terms of quality, imo.
On my DSR and FX, I haven't noticed any stand weirdness. I don't know if its just from riding the DCT bikes or what, but I haven't had any close calls with them rolling. I do wish the stand was a little longer on the DSR as I feel it leans over a bit too far.
I did ride a SR the other day (cool bike, wish my DSR was near that performance) and the stand on it gave me a little concern. Maybe the SR/F stand is similar.
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Tipped my SF/F over in the driveway this morning. It just rolled off the stand (thought it was flat, but not flat enough). No damage and I was able to stand it up on my own. Not thrilled with myself. Anyone else notice any instability on the stand on the SR/F?
Steve
The lack of a parking brake on a $20,000 electric bike is mind boggling.
It is a bit odd. Even my daughter's $3500 (used) NC700X DCT has a parking brake, all the Honda DCT models do from top to bottom. And they are extremely handy. That said... I hardly ever use them for parking. But my DCT bikes also have a center stand installed as well.
I have to say (minus the SR/F) there is definitely a "cutting corners" feel on the Zero's I've ridden compared to say Honda models. The DSR/SR's remind me quality wise of Honda's entry level bikes at a third of the price. I guess you pay a premium for that electric tech. The SR/F is different of course, feeling more like a $20k bike in terms of quality, imo.
On my DSR and FX, I haven't noticed any stand weirdness. I don't know if its just from riding the DCT bikes or what, but I haven't had any close calls with them rolling. I do wish the stand was a little longer on the DSR as I feel it leans over a bit too far.
I did ride a SR the other day (cool bike, wish my DSR was near that performance) and the stand on it gave me a little concern. Maybe the SR/F stand is similar.
I know on my other ICE bikes I usually just left it in first when I stopped. That pretty much kept it from rolling unless you were on a VERY steep hill! I never had the problem with my '16 DSR, but perhaps I was just lucky. I was in an un-familiar driveway and it did have a forward incline (clear after the fact). I have the Zero cheap parking brake from my DSR (clamp on the brake). I'll get in the habit of using it!
Steve
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Some recent events in my SR/F life.
- 1500+ miles! WOOT!
- Today's commute consumed 30% of my battery, a best for me. I kept it between 60 and 65 and followed work trucks for the draft. Even at 4 lengths back I can feel a large difference when the truck changes lanes and I need to go looking for another one to follow.
- My wife's hair bands were not effective as a parking brake. A bit too long to give enough tension but too short to wrap twice around. Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost. They arrive today.
- I am curious about the cruise control. Works great on the interstate. But it seams to perform poorly on hills at slower speeds. I ride the metro-parks a lot. I set the cruise at about 32 (in a 30) to reduce the amount I piss off the other traffic. (I still pull over occasionally to let backed up traffic by) The poor behavior comes when I hit a hill. It is not uncommon for the bike to slow to 28mph the entire way up the hill. Some deviation when I first hit the hill is expected. But the extended period with such a large error from the target makes me think that the PID parameters are not set right. Has anyone else noticed this?
- I think that it is pretty cool that the cruise uses regen on the down side of the hill to keep you from going over the set point
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Oh, and I should probably clarify, the 30% used is not quite an apples to apples comparison to my earlier commutes.
51% used at 85+mph.
40% used at 65+mph.
30% used at 60-65mph *with* minor drafting behind box trucks.
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Some recent events in my SR/F life.
- 1500+ miles! WOOT!
- Today's commute consumed 30% of my battery, a best for me. I kept it between 60 and 65 and followed work trucks for the draft. Even at 4 lengths back I can feel a large difference when the truck changes lanes and I need to go looking for another one to follow.
- My wife's hair bands were not effective as a parking brake. A bit too long to give enough tension but too short to wrap twice around. Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost. They arrive today.
- I am curious about the cruise control. Works great on the interstate. But it seams to perform poorly on hills at slower speeds. I ride the metro-parks a lot. I set the cruise at about 32 (in a 30) to reduce the amount I piss off the other traffic. (I still pull over occasionally to let backed up traffic by) The poor behavior comes when I hit a hill. It is not uncommon for the bike to slow to 28mph the entire way up the hill. Some deviation when I first hit the hill is expected. But the extended period with such a large error from the target makes me think that the PID parameters are not set right. Has anyone else noticed this?
- I think that it is pretty cool that the cruise uses regen on the down side of the hill to keep you from going over the set point
Approaching 700 miles here. Hey, you going to bring it in for service as suggested in the manual (600 miles)? I skipped that on my last bike., I probably will with this one as well. I'm consistently getting better range than I did with my DSR (13.0 battery). Not to bad considering the weight difference. I used just under 30% getting to a nearby lake from home (39 miles, 50/50 70MPH/45MPH). With the DSR that same trip was 35-40%.
Steve
Steve
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Oh, and I should probably clarify, the 30% used is not quite an apples to apples comparison to my earlier commutes.
51% used at 85+mph.
40% used at 65+mph.
30% used at 60-65mph *with* minor drafting behind box trucks.
That's one of the things that bums me out about Zero's. You buy this bike that has crazy torque specs thinking you'll just be ripping around with it all the time, but reality is you find yourself drafting box trucks at 60 mph to try and get better economy out of them... I used to do the same thing on the highway with my $3500 Honda CRF250L.
Zero Marketing:
(https://i.ibb.co/sVQypKV/6-HLRTY2-GOQPLKJGRXKE6-NKPSNA.jpg)
Zero Reality:
(https://i.ibb.co/zXWQy32/Capture.png)
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enough tension but too short to wrap twice around. Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost.
Just an idea - would it be just as easy to place a small wooden chock in front of either wheel to stop it rolling off the stand when facing downhill?
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I wouldn't continue to draft trucks, or any vehicle for that matter. I used to do that with my 1962 Vespa 125 motor scooter when it was legal to ride such things on the freeway. But I learned that is a very dangerous tactic just to try to increase range, or in my case trying to maintain freeway speeds. You never know when a truck will kick something nasty into you, drive over a big piece of debris (like a loose muffler) that you won't see until it is too late, or in my case suddenly changing lanes in front of you, exposing a mattress sitting in the middle of the lane, just 100 feet away while traveling at 60 mph. :o After that little episode, I gave up drafting trucks and started giving them a lot more room in front of me. :)
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enough tension but too short to wrap twice around. Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost.
Just an idea - would it be just as easy to place a small wooden chock in front of either wheel to stop it rolling off the stand when facing downhill?
Velco straps are still the best solution to holding the front brake lever against the handlebar grip. They are very cheap, weigh nothing and take up very little space in a pocket or tank bag. Or you could even wrap it around the handlebar when not in use. With the strap you can adjust the tension on the brake handle by just squeezing the brake and fastening the strap around the handle to keep it in place. Since the strap will not stretch, it will not change tension while in place. :)
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- My wife's hair bands were not effective as a parking brake. A bit too long to give enough tension but too short to wrap twice around. Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost. They arrive today.
Did you use the little knob on the brake level to adjust the pull distance?
Approaching 700 miles here. Hey, you going to bring it in for service as suggested in the manual (600 miles)? I skipped that on my last bike., I probably will with this one as well. I'm consistently getting better range than I did with my DSR (13.0 battery). Not to bad considering the weight difference. I used just under 30% getting to a nearby lake from home (39 miles, 50/50 70MPH/45MPH). With the DSR that same trip was 35-40%.
Steve
Do you, or anyone else on here, have a guess at how much that 600mi service might cost? I'm just trying to get a ballpark. I could handle the checking things, and greasing the brake lever, but I don't know what "Commissioning and timing" means.
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- My wife's hair bands were not effective as a parking brake. A bit too long to give enough tension but too short to wrap twice around. Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost. They arrive today.
Did you use the little knob on the brake level to adjust the pull distance?
Approaching 700 miles here. Hey, you going to bring it in for service as suggested in the manual (600 miles)? I skipped that on my last bike., I probably will with this one as well. I'm consistently getting better range than I did with my DSR (13.0 battery). Not to bad considering the weight difference. I used just under 30% getting to a nearby lake from home (39 miles, 50/50 70MPH/45MPH). With the DSR that same trip was 35-40%.
Steve
Do you, or anyone else on here, have a guess at how much that 600mi service might cost? I'm just trying to get a ballpark. I could handle the checking things, and greasing the brake lever, but I don't know what "Commissioning and timing" means.
I paid $200 for the first service last year for my 2018 S, which required 1.75 hours of labor and no parts. It consisted of checking over the bike's chassis, checking for the latest firmware and "commissioning" the motor to sync up the controller with the motor's internal sensors that tell it where the motor's magnets are as it spins around. Getting that exactly right should improve performance, increase efficiency and reduce the heat generated as the motor operates. ???
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I have been using a Velcro strip around my front brake lever for years to keep my Zero rolling down an incline. Zero should really come up with a parking brake solution, as many inexpensive automatic scooters use. ???
So the SR/F still doesn't have one of those standard, despite being a premium new bike & platform? Especially since such a parking brake would cost all of $2 in parts.
As for bungee loops / hairbands or that Zero yellow brake lever lock, maybe things have changed, but last I knew, it was a bad idea use something like this, since constant brake lever pressure for hours at a time (or days, if the bike is parked like this at home) over long periods could cause premature permanent deformation and failure of the brake system diaphragm.
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I have been using a Velcro strip around my front brake lever for years to keep my Zero rolling down an incline. Zero should really come up with a parking brake solution, as many inexpensive automatic scooters use. ???
So the SR/F still doesn't have one of those standard, despite being a premium new bike & platform? Especially since such a parking brake would cost all of $2 in parts.
As for bungee loops / hairbands or that Zero yellow brake lever lock, maybe things have changed, but last I knew, it was a bad idea use something like this, since constant brake lever pressure for hours at a time (or days, if the bike is parked like this at home) over long periods could cause premature permanent deformation and failure of the brake system diaphragm.
I have used locking the front brake lever in place over night to help bleed the hydraulic system of small amounts of air. Many other have done the same thing with good results. However, if I needed to keep the bike from rolling when stored for a long period of time, I would block the wheels.
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@TireFryer426 did you use a vinyl cutter for the tank? If so which one?
Sorry for being off topic.
I'm looking for a vinyl cutter get some styling jobs done. Any recommendations?
In the past few weeks I've been searching the net for the best solution and no luck
so far. I've read way too much hype and not enough good info.
I've found this blog. This machine comparison (https://freshlypickedblog.com/silhouette-portrait-vs-cameo/) looked quite decent.
The only issue I've found was that it seemed too honest. Are these machines that loud?
Any pointers will be highly appreciated
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I didn't use a vinyl cutter. That might be fun to have, though. Would be fun to add some shapes or graphics.
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Good thread to scan for SR/F info.
Anyone have direct experience with a real windshield? Please share.
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Good thread to scan for SR/F info.
Anyone have direct experience with a real windshield? Please share.
I mounted a universal windshield on my SR/F.
Read all about it here https://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=9354.0 (https://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=9354.0)