ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: atldinan3 on June 13, 2017, 11:30:17 PM
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Not sure how the seat height on the FXS compares to the DS, but the riding position is fairly upright and I'm fine with a fairly short 30" inside leg.
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Never let the position of the bars, pegs or controls dictate what bike you ride. They're all adjustable and swappable.
I am not a fan of lowering motorcycles at all... And it's easier/cheaper to move the controls than swap suspension parts.
I would go for the S if I was you, and then change the bars to some you like better.
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I too suffer from a 29" inside leg and was worried about tip toes to begin with. Very quickly got used to it and have no issues. Depending on road cross slope occasionally a slight shuffle sideways to give a bit more reach but otherwise no issue during daily twenty mile commute through city traffic, lots of traffic lights, on my DS
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Several users here have road tires on their DS without problems. Corbin makes nice aftermarket seats.
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Yep, you're looking for:
Custom seat $500 http://www.corbin.com/zero/zero13.shtml (http://www.corbin.com/zero/zero13.shtml)
Rox Speed FX 2" risers $100 https://roxspeedfx.com/collections/adv-dual-sport-dirt-bike-handlebar-risers/products/2-pivoting-bar-risers-for-1-1-8-handlebar (https://roxspeedfx.com/collections/adv-dual-sport-dirt-bike-handlebar-risers/products/2-pivoting-bar-risers-for-1-1-8-handlebar)
The seat can be cut lower and further back to complement the risers. Both of these are bolt-in parts. Start with the risers, and then figure out how you want your seat to be.
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I'm not quite clear on this. Are you suggesting two independent possibilities, one if I choose the S (risers) and the other if I choose the DS (seat)? Or are you saying the combination of the two would make the S most doable?
Thx
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I'm not quite clear on this. Are you suggesting two independent possibilities, one if I choose the S (risers) and the other if I choose the DS (seat)? Or are you saying the combination of the two would make the S most doable?
I'm about the same height and inseam within an inch or so of what you mentioned. When I got taller boots (btw Nicks Boots in Spokane WA love their product) then I could flat foot the DSR. My back would be in pain after long rides (200mi+) and that's been largely reduced since installing the risers. Now I don't like how the stock seat puts me so far forward it hurts my knees on those long 300mi+ rides, so I will eventually get a Corbin seat to replace the stock seat and have it made to sit further back - I've sat on a few Corbin seats most of the long riding Zero owners have one, it's very nice.
The difference you feel in riding position between the S and DS is the handlebars are a different shape.
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Any fat or 1 1/8th bar will work but there are 3 holes in the original bar that will not be on any non-Zero after market bars. I think only two are actually required. I think this is in the non-official zero manual. You will need a drill press to locate the holes properly.
I installed a ProTaper EVO Adventure 1 1/8" Handlebar Adventure low bend which is almost exactly the same shape as the OEM just a little wider but you can of course cut them.
You might want to look at the high bend of this bar. Kind of wishing I had gone that root.
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Never let the position of the bars, pegs or controls dictate what bike you ride. They're all adjustable and swappable.
I am not a fan of lowering motorcycles at all... And it's easier/cheaper to move the controls than swap suspension parts.
I would go for the S if I was you, and then change the bars to some you like better.
I think moto dealers should take a lesson from bicycle dealers. When you buy a mid to top of the line bike, you get (or should get) a bike fitting. This includes, but is not limited to, changing the stem length (especially important for women, which is why companies are finally offering women-specific geomtries); adjust seat height, etc, etc. In sum, if you're paying thousands of dollars for a bike (with or without a motor) the dealer/manufacturer should offer alternatives to ensure the bike fit is appropriate for you. I personally would never buy a bicycle from a dealer if a fitting was not included in the price.
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Never let the position of the bars, pegs or controls dictate what bike you ride. They're all adjustable and swappable.
I am not a fan of lowering motorcycles at all... And it's easier/cheaper to move the controls than swap suspension parts.
I would go for the S if I was you, and then change the bars to some you like better.
I think moto dealers should take a lesson from bicycle dealers. When you buy a mid to top of the line bike, you get (or should get) a bike fitting. This includes, but is not limited to, changing the stem length (especially important for women, which is why companies are finally offering women-specific geomtries); adjust seat height, etc, etc. In sum, if you're paying thousands of dollars for a bike (with or without a motor) the dealer/manufacturer should offer alternatives to ensure the bike fit is appropriate for you. I personally would never buy a bicycle from a dealer if a fitting was not included in the price.
A bicycle has a simple frame, a motorbike is far more complicated and all the additional parts they need are designed (or purchased) to fit together in the frame. It is not economically possible to have multiple frame sizes and then multiple of all the parts to go in it.
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atldinan3 the frame of the DS and S are identical, so adding the DS bars to the S will give you the DS riding possition. At worst you may have to buy the DS cables too, but looking at my SR the brake line would seem to be long enough to cope.
I would put it back on the dealer, "I will buy an S if YOU put DS bars on it" and agree on a price first. Otherwise if you are prepared to wait, I think a bike can be put together at the factor with the things you want. I believe you can get an FX with chain and nobby tires by ordering it from the factory, so why not an S?
Try contacting Zero customer support and ask what can be done for your special needs, I am pretty sure they will help.
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Never let the position of the bars, pegs or controls dictate what bike you ride. They're all adjustable and swappable.
I am not a fan of lowering motorcycles at all... And it's easier/cheaper to move the controls than swap suspension parts.
I would go for the S if I was you, and then change the bars to some you like better.
I think moto dealers should take a lesson from bicycle dealers. When you buy a mid to top of the line bike, you get (or should get) a bike fitting. This includes, but is not limited to, changing the stem length (especially important for women, which is why companies are finally offering women-specific geomtries); adjust seat height, etc, etc. In sum, if you're paying thousands of dollars for a bike (with or without a motor) the dealer/manufacturer should offer alternatives to ensure the bike fit is appropriate for you. I personally would never buy a bicycle from a dealer if a fitting was not included in the price.
I think if you're going to own a motorcycle, you should know how to adjust the controls yourself anyway... so a "fitting" would be moot. Besides, all the motorcycles in your local dealership, from the flagship 300kph sportbikes down to the mopeds are removed from the crate and assembled by the make-ready in the back... this is usually a young kid with only very basic mechanical skills getting paid just above min-wage.
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Here this covers the two feet on the ground issue.
You can watch the whole thing or skip to 3:30 mark. This is how to stand at a stop on road bicycles with lock in pedals. It gives you the rear brake which holds the bike on a hill much better than your feet anyway.
*moderator edit* Forum embed of video links should be unbroken'ed now:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s07hML6bJOA
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Maybe you can work out a deal to have them replace the bar with an aftermarket one. They probably have just the thing in stock.
Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
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... the frame of the DS and S are identical..
Along these lines, what is it that makes the DS seat height 2 inches taller? The frame is the same, the specs say the suspension is essentially the same. The seat is the same. So why does it ride so much higher?
(...in hopes of finding an easy point of adjustment...)
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... the frame of the DS and S are identical..
Along these lines, what is it that makes the DS seat height 2 inches taller? The frame is the same, the specs say the suspension is essentially the same. The seat is the same. So why does it ride so much higher?
(...in hopes of finding an easy point of adjustment...)
I dont know if the tires are actually larger, or if they just look larger because of the tread..
3/4 of an inch is in the suspension travel.
after that, I don't know.
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Factory specs:
DS:
Front tire Pirelli MT-60 100/90-19
Rear tire Pirelli MT-60 130/80-17
Front wheel 2.50 x 19
Rear wheel 3.50 x 17
S:
Front tire Pirelli Diablo Rosso II 110/70-17
Rear tire Pirelli Diablo Rosso II 140/70-17
Front wheel 3.00 x 17
Rear wheel 3.50 x 17
Does the fact that the front wheel is 2 inches larger on the DS present an insurmountable challenge? Or does the fact that the rear wheels are identical neutralize that fact?
I've never understood much about suspension specs, so I don't know how to process this part.
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Ok, so from what I can tell via this thread (below), the Rox risers will bring the handlebars on the S up about 1" and back about 2". Is that correct? And without negative ramifications on the cabling?
That sounds good, however, its soooo hard to know how much of a difference it will make when actually riding the bike. I'm sitting here in my desk chair bending and straightening and flexing in all sorts of ridiculous nuances :P , not sure what is the "sweet spot" for adjustment.
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6415.15 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6415.15)
All I can say is I hated the positioning of the bars, then added the ROXs. They make a huge difference. On my SR, I am only now slightly forward but can ride upright without strain on lower back. You could get a set of ROXs, take it to the dealer and put them in (takes 5 mins). Go for a ride with them on. At best you'll love the new position, at worse you can sell them on this website and get most of your money back
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Factory specs:
DS:
Front tire Pirelli MT-60 100/90-19
Rear tire Pirelli MT-60 130/80-17
Front wheel 2.50 x 19
Rear wheel 3.50 x 17
S:
Front tire Pirelli Diablo Rosso II 110/70-17
Rear tire Pirelli Diablo Rosso II 140/70-17
Front wheel 3.00 x 17
Rear wheel 3.50 x 17
Does the fact that the front wheel is 2 inches larger on the DS present an insurmountable challenge? Or does the fact that the rear wheels are identical neutralize that fact?
I've never understood much about suspension specs, so I don't know how to process this part.
Ah good point, the frame is angled up at the front due to the larger front wheel (2 inches). The rear is only 3/4 inch higher (extra suspension travel) , so you would also need 1 1/4 inch longer risers with the DS bars to get the same riding position. This could certainly be done after market.
I would ask Zero support if they can build you a special bike to your needs - can't hurt. Maybe they could use DS front forks with DS bars?