ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: MorbidBBQ on August 24, 2017, 08:06:51 PM
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I have a 2013S with a 2015 battery, and I was looking for specifications on the inputs ranges for the accessory charger. I can find a used 7.5KW power supply for ~ $100.
https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/products/collateral/switches/nexus-7000-series-switches/Data_Sheet_C78-437761.html (https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/products/collateral/switches/nexus-7000-series-switches/Data_Sheet_C78-437761.html)
They are a bit too big to cart around with me, but I want to hook one up permanently at home to my NEMA 14-50 outlet.
Is this a feasible idea, or am I off my rocker?
Do people know the input specs for the accessory charging port?
The only thing I've found is the 100Amp fuse (DC or AC?).
It looks like the zero quickcharger is 96 volts.
http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_5&products_id=194&zenid=42u6gbejhg8c7s0g4b5vgc4bu6 (http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_5&products_id=194&zenid=42u6gbejhg8c7s0g4b5vgc4bu6)
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Now that I know the zero quickcharger is 96 volts, I'm looking at other options.
A quick internet search doesn't return anything for 96volt power supplies.
What would happen if I tried to charge it at 48 volts?
Is it possible to combine 2 48 volt chargers for 1x96volt?
This is where I start to get dangerous with my limited knowledge from that elective i took a decade ago on AC/DC Circuit Design & Theory...
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Take a look here:
http://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6405.0
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96 volts won't get you anywhere near a full charge...that's actually fairly depleted for the Zero batteries. Most of the chargers you'll find OTC have a way of adjusting their output voltage a bit, and they're adjusted somewhat higher for the Zero S/SR/DS/DSR. I'm not sure the exact voltages the quick-charge guys are using, but 110VDC would be a pretty safe value, with 116VDC being pretty aggressive. IIRC the onboard Zero charger terminates at 114VDC. Since fast-charging is a bit harder on the batteries, you might want to terminate somewhat earlier to be gentler on the battery.
But generally, if their output voltage can be adjusted to an appropriate value by some sort of programming or even an internal trimpot, server power supplies make excellent battery chargers. Since they're designed to be used in parallel in a large rack, they offer true Constant Current/Constant Voltage (CC/CV) operation. In other words, the power supply will try to regulate up to its voltage setpoint, but it won't put out more than its "constant current" value, even if the output voltage is significantly lower than the setpoint. This behavior allows them to be paralleled easily in a rack, and it works great to charge batteries too -- in fact, that's called "two-state" charging, and it's specified for the Zero batteries.
I'd have a hard time recommending it, though. Save your sheckels and invest in one of the aftermarket fast-chargers you can mount on the bike. Why would you want to leave it at home? I just (finally) got my Diginow installed and operating, and I'm very happily planning trips now. Can't do that with a charger you can't take with you.
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96 volts won't get you anywhere near a full charge...that's actually fairly depleted for the Zero batteries. Most of the chargers you'll find OTC have a way of adjusting their output voltage a bit, and they're adjusted somewhat higher for the Zero S/SR/DS/DSR. I'm not sure the exact voltages the quick-charge guys are using, but 110VDC would be a pretty safe value, with 116VDC being pretty aggressive. IIRC the onboard Zero charger terminates at 114VDC. Since fast-charging is a bit harder on the batteries, you might want to terminate somewhat earlier to be gentler on the battery.
96 volts is what zero is selling; I doubt they would sell a charging accessory that can't get it to a full charge. Is it possible that the charger doesn't need to supply more voltage to a battery than its capacity?
But generally, if their output voltage can be adjusted to an appropriate value by some sort of programming or even an internal trimpot, server power supplies make excellent battery chargers. Since they're designed to be used in parallel in a large rack, they offer true Constant Current/Constant Voltage (CC/CV) operation. In other words, the power supply will try to regulate up to its voltage setpoint, but it won't put out more than its "constant current" value, even if the output voltage is significantly lower than the setpoint. This behavior allows them to be paralleled easily in a rack, and it works great to charge batteries too -- in fact, that's called "two-state" charging, and it's specified for the Zero batteries.
I'd have a hard time recommending it, though. Save your sheckels and invest in one of the aftermarket fast-chargers you can mount on the bike. Why would you want to leave it at home? I just (finally) got my Diginow installed and operating, and I'm very happily planning trips now. Can't do that with a charger you can't take with you.
I've already got the EVtricity charger, and its working great. I'm just wondering why more people haven't tried the server power at what appears to be 1/10th the cost. It would be ugly, clunky, & heavier; so that's why I'm thinking of using it as a superduper home charger (DubJ!). FOR SCIENCE!
$69 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8WV56M6547 (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8WV56M6547)
Fred, thanks for that other link. I see the author (remmie) talks about connecting 2 57v supplies in a series; which fries my brain. How do you connect 2 AC/DC converters in a series?
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What Zero sells (Quick Charger) is rated for 96V but customized at the factory to match the 116V full charge voltage.
The EVTricity charger IS a server power supply.
The reason not to use a server power supply is that they are not rated for weather or vibration, and could fail with no manufacturer support and might cause damage.
If any of this scares you, then it should. These efforts are inherently risky and should be avoided if at all possible. Breaking a $15000 EV by saving $1000 on charging equipment is foolish.
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96 volts won't get you anywhere near a full charge...that's actually fairly depleted for the Zero batteries. Most of the chargers you'll find OTC have a way of adjusting their output voltage a bit, and they're adjusted somewhat higher for the Zero S/SR/DS/DSR. I'm not sure the exact voltages the quick-charge guys are using, but 110VDC would be a pretty safe value, with 116VDC being pretty aggressive.
116 volts cannot be too aggressive as I just measured my DC battery voltage at the Anderson Connector. Ignition key must be on to read this voltage. I get 117.00 VDC with my bike (2017 Zero DS ZF 6.5) at 100% charge, nothing but voltmeter connected to the bike. That makes me believe the DC charge voltage would be above 120 VDC to get any usable current to charge the batteries up to 100%.
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
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That makes me believe the DC charge voltage would be above 120 VDC to get any usable current to charge the batteries up to 100%.
Regardless of how the numbers may make it seem, battery SoC (State of Charge) isn't absolute. Is 116VDC 100% charge? If not, is it 112VDC or 120VDC? On the other end, is 92VDC 0% (completely depleted)? Or is 88 or 96?
In reality, it's a sliding scale. If you somehow bypassed the safeties and charged your Zero battery up to 140VDC even once, you've killed it. If you discharge it down to 60VDC, ditto. Conversely, if you never let it get below 102VDC, and never charge it above 110VDC, it will last an extremely long time.
When the Prius first came out (some of us are old enough to remember that!), people were extremely skeptical of the life of the NiMH battery. Everybody was saying you'd have to spend $15,000 every 50,000 miles to replace the battery pack. But there are Priuses on the road with in excess of 500,000 miles, still running fine with their original batteries. The secret? The Toyota engineers narrowed the operating range of the battery pack very significantly -- they only discharge down to the conventional 40% SoC, and only charge up to 60%. By limiting the operating range that much, they've achieved ten or maybe 100 times the number of cycles anybody thought they could. Batteries thrive under that kind of service.
So go ahead, charge your battery up to 120VDC if you want to. Discharge it to 85VDC. You WILL get higher capacity and more range that way....just don't complain when your battery fails after 25 cycles.
Or you can rig up a charger that stops at 112VDC, and make sure your SoC indicator never reads below 40% or so. You'll have much longer battery life at the expense of range and convenience.
Or you can just stick with Zero's design, which guarantees you 2500 cycles, and gives the advertised range. It's your call.
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Regardless of how the numbers may make it seem, battery SoC (State of Charge) isn't absolute. Is 116VDC 100% charge? If not, is it 112VDC or 120VDC? On the other end, is 92VDC 0% (completely depleted)? Or is 88 or 96?
I think you missed my point. I will always stick to using the Zero recommended stuff, that wasn't my point.
But how is it possible to charge a battery to 117 VDC with less voltage than 117VDC? I used the onboard charger ONLY (not even a quick charger used) to get to 100% charge which was exactly 117.0 VDC measured on my bike's Anderson connector after it being fully charged more than ten hours ago. 117.0 was my battery voltage. If that is too high, then it's Zero's mistake, not mine.
And to fully charge such a battery, to get any usable charge current, the charger voltage will have to be above the fully charged battery voltage. Just like a so called 12 volt (~12.7 volt) lead acid battery needs about 13.3 volts for it to even start to charge (13.8 volts to charge is more typical).
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
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...But how is it possible to charge a battery to 117 VDC with less voltage than 117VDC? I used the onboard charger ONLY (not even a quick charger used) to get to 100% charge which was exactly 117.0 VDC measured on my bike's Anderson connector after it being fully charged more than ten hours ago. 117.0 was my battery voltage. If that is too high, then it's Zero's mistake, not mine.
Stock on-board charger may charge up to 117Vdc at a reduced rate. We're all just guessing based on observations unless having read the secret firmware code.
The Sevcon motor controller will refuse to turn on if the battery is above a certain voltage (118Vdc?)
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Stock on-board charger may charge up to 117Vdc at a reduced rate. We're all just guessing based on observations unless having read the secret firmware code.
The Sevcon motor controller will refuse to turn on if the battery is above a certain voltage (118Vdc?)
Sounds right. The way they get more charging current is to increase the charging voltage. But as the battery gets more charged, the current will automatically decrease. And the BMS I assume further adjusts the charging current by adjusting the voltage to make the charging current best for the battery's SOC.
There's no way to adjust charging current without changing the charging voltage, but sometimes a very slight amount of voltage can cause a relatively large change in current.
Considering how many quick chargers are allowed, I would think it would be rather difficult to get enough POWER (watts) to over charge such a battery. Say you put on 300 DC volts on a battery that needs a charge. That voltage will DROP instantly to a much lower voltage under the load of the battery or else that will have to be one heck of a charger that will take almost all the power possible from your house.
Didn't I hear that each charger draws 13 amps at 120 VAC? Five chargers allowed. 13 times five is=65 amps. 65 amps @ 120 volts=7,800 watts AC input. Somewhat less DC output. I would think not many power supplies will handle enough power to blow out one of these batteries. If the voltage under battery load is much above the 117 volts I measured, that will be one heck of a power supply.
Before you could get enough voltage to get enough current to overcharge the bike's battery from a single outlet, the circuit breaker in your house will blow.
-Don- Reno, NV
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I beg to disagree. A charger can be set to for example charge to 192v at max 10 amps, and will never use more than 1920W of DC so around 2100W of AC power but will destroy your battery for sure...
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But how is it possible to charge a battery to 117 VDC with less voltage than 117VDC?
Of course it's not. But what's the accuracy of your voltmeter? And how accurate is the charger? I don't want to quibble about +-1VDC. That's only 0.8% of the measurement, which isn't bad in the real world.
And to fully charge such a battery, to get any usable charge current, the charger voltage will have to be above the fully charged battery voltage. Just like a so called 12 volt (~12.7 volt) lead acid battery needs about 13.3 volts for it to even start to charge (13.8 volts to charge is more typical).
That may be true, in which case the charger is just set a couple of volts higher. But I'm not entirely sure it's true, anyhow. You're comparing two very different batteries. For all I know, if you apply 117VDC to a Li-ion battery overnight, it will trickle charge up to that exact voltage.
My main point is just that we're always talking about SoC numbers as if they're absolute, and they're not. There is no hard-and-fast voltage where the battery is at "0%" capacity, nor "100%", nor any value in between. These are engineering decisions made by Zero.
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What Zero sells (Quick Charger) is rated for 96V but customized at the factory to match the 116V full charge voltage.
The EVTricity charger IS a server power supply.
The reason not to use a server power supply is that they are not rated for weather or vibration, and could fail with no manufacturer support and might cause damage.
If any of this scares you, then it should. These efforts are inherently risky and should be avoided if at all possible. Breaking a $15000 EV by saving $1000 on charging equipment is foolish.
The diginow is a telecom power supply... Sure its awesome, but its also not designed for vehicle use.
96 volts won't get you anywhere near a full charge...that's actually fairly depleted for the Zero batteries. Most of the chargers you'll find OTC have a way of adjusting their output voltage a bit, and they're adjusted somewhat higher for the Zero S/SR/DS/DSR. I'm not sure the exact voltages the quick-charge guys are using, but 110VDC would be a pretty safe value, with 116VDC being pretty aggressive.
116 volts cannot be too aggressive as I just measured my DC battery voltage at the Anderson Connector. Ignition key must be on to read this voltage. I get 117.00 VDC with my bike (2017 Zero DS ZF 6.5) at 100% charge, nothing but voltmeter connected to the bike. That makes me believe the DC charge voltage would be above 120 VDC to get any usable current to charge the batteries up to 100%.
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
That is NOT how a CC/CV power supply works.
The bike is never supplied with voltage above the final charge amount. What happens is its supplied at the constant current limit, until the charger hits the max voltage.
then the current slowly drops as the voltages come closer. At no point is the output voltage of the charger raised above that battery max to increase the current.
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I beg to disagree. A charger can be set to for example charge to 192v at max 10 amps, and will never use more than 1920W of DC so around 2100W of AC power but will destroy your battery for sure...
Sure you can set it at ten amps at 192 volts. But if the battery draws more than ten amps, that voltage will drop. And at 192 volts, it probably will draw more than that ten amps. But if not, then you're safe anyway. The real question is how much current can these batteries handle? Seems like quite a bit, considering how many quick chargers can be used.
10 amps at my measured 117 DC volts is 1,170 watts. With several chargers, which we are allowed to use, we have to be way over that! That means when your ten amp charger at 192 volts exceeds ten amps of current, you're not going to get 192 volts from that single charger. The voltage will drop as the current increases above ten amps.
IOW, I would think your charger would overheat well before the battery. 192 volts at 10 amps is capable of 1,920 watts. The AC input will be even higher than that 1,920 watts, AC current draw would be quite high, perhaps enough to blow your house 20 amp circuit breaker. 120 VAC at 20 amps is 2,400 watts. Getting quite close.
I own more voltmeters than I can keep track off. I doubt if any of them are more than a volt off at 117 VDC. But I will check with several different high quality meters next time. I will do some more checking later and post some more info here. One of the things I want to see is the charging voltage under the load of the battery when the battery is somewhat discharged. If I can find a DC current meter that can read high enough, I will check the DC charging current also from a recommended quick charger. Right now, my bike is at 100% charged, so I have to check it after a ride today.
-Don- Reno, NV
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That is NOT how a CC/CV power supply works. The bike is never supplied with voltage above the final charge amount. What happens is its supplied at the constant current limit, until the charger hits the max voltage. then the current slowly drops as the voltages come closer. At no point is the output voltage of the charger raised above that battery max to increase the current.
Actually, it is exactly how a Constant Current power supply works. It changes the voltage as necessary to keep the current constant. But the battery will drop the voltage, but the voltage always has to be a bit higher then the battery resting voltage or else there is no charging and no current.
A 100 volt battery "charged" at 100 volts means ZERO current. The current draw has to be from the charger having more voltage than the battery resting voltage. That is what creates the current draw to charge the battery.
Constant current supply means the power supply voltage changes with the varying load to keep the current constant. Without CC, the current draw would change as the battery SOC changes.
BTW, I do realize it's a bit more complicated as stuff such as battery temperature is taken into consideration in our E-vehicles, which will also change the charging current (by lowering the voltage to lower the charge current). IOW, CC might not always be so CC.
-Don- Reno, NV
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I did some more testing today.
My 2017 DS ZF 6.5 was indicating 85% of the charge left after a ten mile ride.
The resting voltage of the battery was then 110.3 volts.
Adding a quick charger (withOUT the on-board charger) the voltage is 111.3 volts. A one volt increase.
Adding the onboard charger (now both chargers) the voltage is 112.9 volts. 1.6 volt more increase.
So with both chargers, the battery voltage is 2.6 volts above the battery resting voltage, under the load of the battery.
I expected the charging voltage to be a bit higher voltage above the battery resting voltage, considering the current these batteries draw.
But at least we now know our "96 volt chargers" are really more than 11 volts above the battery voltage if no load. IOW, 117 volts or above.
The no load charger voltage cannot be tested as these Zero quick chargers need voltage from the battery to turn on. They measure zero volts when not connected to the battery.
But we do know that the battery does charge to above 117 VDC when at 100% charge is indicated, proving the charger voltage has to be at least a slight bit above that.
I also realize other things can effect these readings, others might get slightly different readings based on SOC, battery temps, or whatever. But one thing for sure is that our 96 volt chargers are quite a bit higher than 96 volts. And our batteries charge to around 117 VDC, so the charger's unloaded voltage has to be even higher than that. But that unloaded voltage cannot be easily tested.
-Don- Reno, NV
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> ... the battery will drop the voltage, but the voltage always has to be a bit higher then the battery resting voltage or else there is no charging and no current.
A 100 volt battery "charged" at 100 volts means ZERO current. The current draw has to be from the charger having more voltage than the battery resting voltage. That is what creates the current draw to charge the battery.
Constant current supply means the power supply voltage changes with the varying load to keep the current constant. Without CC, the current draw would change as the battery SOC changes.
> BTW, I do realize it's a bit more complicated as stuff such as battery temperature is taken into consideration in our E-vehicles, which will also change the charging current (by lowering the voltage to lower the charge current). IOW, CC might not always be so CC.
Actually I don't think there's a mechanism to communicate to external chargers to slow charge rate due to battery temp. If you hit the battery temp limit, the contactor opens, and everything stops till it cools. And on an older bike there's a fair bit of air gap insulation, on a hot day you are stuck for a while. Better to catch it before it happens, because riding at 55mph cools the battery better than being stationary.
> But we do know that the battery does charge to above 117 VDC when at 100% charge is indicated, proving the charger voltage has to be at least a slight bit above that.
No. You'd damage the battery. But hopefully the self preservation circuitry would kick in, the contractor would open.
When the supply hits 116.5v it switches to constant voltage mode, the current drops, and the battery voltage sags and the current thus increases again, reaching an equilibrium where you are feeding into the battery at the shower rate, *not* exceeding the voltage. Charging slows as you reach 100% SoC. If you were to charge rapidly to 116.5v, and stop, you'd end up with an immediate sag of a volt or two and like 90% SoC once the battery has rested. I do this fairly often (To avoid being at 100% SoC. I live at the top of a hill, and don't like having regen disabled.)
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> And our batteries charge to around 117 VDC,
Yes
> so the charger's unloaded voltage has to be even higher than that.
No
> But that unloaded voltage cannot be easily tested.
I've watched it with a voltmeter under charge. Heck I monitor voltage from the mbb interface fairly regularly (diginow dongle). Doesn't exceed 117v. It flattens there and current tapers accordingly.
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Actually, it is exactly how a Constant Current power supply works. It changes the voltage as necessary to keep the current constant.
yes, that is how a Constant Current power supply works, HOWEVER all Zero motorcycles (and lithium batteries for that matter) are charged with a Constant Current AND Constant Voltage power supply.. thats the CC/CV in my quote.
The way it works is simple. On any load below the current threshold, the supply stays at the set voltage. As the load increases beyond that, the current limiter kicks in and lowers the voltage.
But the battery will drop the voltage, but the voltage always has to be a bit higher then the battery resting voltage or else there is no charging and no current.
A 100 volt battery "charged" at 100 volts means ZERO current.
You are not incorrect. However I think you have a bit of a logical issue there. If the battery is fully charged at 100v, and its at 100v, then of COURSE there is no current flowing. the battery is fully charged!
However if the power supply is at 100v, but the battery is still at 99v, current is still flowing, but only a tiny trickle... that is the entire reason why you can charge an EV to about 85% at high rates, but it slows down topping to 100%, as you get closer, it charges slower!
Instead of these made up numbers, lets use the Zero's actual battery.
The zero battery has 28 cells, meaning if each cell was at 4.15 as charged, the pack voltage is 116.2.
Once you reach a current level that is below the factory chargers level, an extra external charger is not required. Its not going to make it any faster.. so you dont have to worry about setting it at exactly 116 point something.. just have it around 115 and then you dont need to worry about your multimeter being perfect. Or if you're after that last 30seconds of saved time, set it to 116 on the nose with a calibrated fluke meter after the length of the leads... whatever floats your boat.
Constant current supply means the power supply voltage changes with the varying load to keep the current constant. Without CC, the current draw would change as the battery SOC changes.
The current draw DOES change as the battery charges. It stays at whatever the chargers current limit is, until the voltage limit is reached, then the current drops as the voltage stays constant.
Alot of people think this is some how programmed in, but its actually just those two limits being reactive to the load given by the battery.
Super simple.
The hard part is handling the error conditions... for example, on a switching power supply if you suddenly disconnect the load, you can get some nasty spikes... enough to play pop-goes-the-FET.
BTW, I do realize it's a bit more complicated as stuff such as battery temperature is taken into consideration in our E-vehicles, which will also change the charging current (by lowering the voltage to lower the charge current). IOW, CC might not always be so CC.
-Don- Reno, NV
nope. the BMS handles all that. If the battery is too hot or too cold to accept the charge, it just disconnects the contactor and your supply does nothing... it also disables the enable signal right before the contactor, but not everyones charger pays attention to that (although they should)
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I took some more readings today. Here is what I discovered on the Anderson Connector while only the onboard charger is used:
Percent of charge indicated:96 %=114.5 VDC. 98%=115.2 VDC, 99%=115.5 VDC, 100% (Green charge indicator still blinking)=115.8 VDC
3 minutes later=116.1 VDC
4 minutes more (indicator solid on) 116.5 VDC.
5 more minutes= 117.0 VDC
15 minutes later (bike still plugged in)= 1.0 VDC (this must mean the contactor relay opens well after the green light is solid, not at the same time).
Plug removed=0.6 VDC
Plugged back in (key still off) 116.8 VC Many minutes later voltage drops (dropping below 40 VDC when I checked).
Unplugged bike, key on= 116.7 VDC
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
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The way it works is simple. On any load below the current threshold, the supply stays at the set voltage. As the load increases beyond that, the current limiter kicks in and lowers the voltage.
Okay, but what do the two SMALLER pins do on the 4 conductor Anderson connector?You are not incorrect. However I think you have a bit of a logical issue there. If the battery is fully charged at 100v, and its at 100v, then of COURSE there is no current flowing. the battery is fully charged!
True, I worded it a bit silly. But even if it's half charged, the charging voltage will have to be so much above the battery resting voltage to charge it to get any charging current.
From the measurements I took today, 117 VDC is the charging voltage on a nearly fully charged battery. The battery resting voltage is a bit less, 116.7 VDC checked about an hour after being fully charged.
So the fully charged battery voltage is 116.7 VDC on my 2017 Zero DS ZF 6.5.
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
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Here are the specs for the Quiq charger. The 96V model can put out 135VDC but obviously it never does with the Zero program.
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Okay, but what do the two SMALLER pins do on the 4 conductor Anderson connector?
This is the enable line. The charger puts about 3.5 volts on it, the bike pulls it down to about 1 volt to start charging. This signal will control the pack contactor off the bike as I show here http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7116.msg59032#msg59032 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7116.msg59032#msg59032)
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Here are the specs for the Quiq charger. The 96V model can put out 135VDC but obviously it never does with the Zero program.
Thanks, but I wonder why the math doesn't add up:
Max voltage is 135. Max current is 8.5 amps. 1,147.5 watts.
But they say the max power is 945 watts.
Even on our Zeros, if they draw that 8.5 amps:
117 VDC x 8.5 amps max spec=994.5 watts. Yet spec is only 945 watts.
I wonder if they mean just don't exceed the 945 watts regardless of voltage and current draw.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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The charger is programmed by Zero to deliver a set current, usually 8.5 amps, at whatever voltage it needs to get that current. Then when it reaches full charge it limits the voltage to about 117 as you have seen. The charger LED shows green then. When the bike decides it is done (after balancing?) the contactor opens and you get red flashing indicating no load. The current might reduce at the higher voltages to stay within the rated power wattage, but I have not seen that indicated by the yellow LEDs. But that could be why it takes longer to finish charging above 90% or so. I don't have a current shunt to measure what it does at the end of the cycle, maybe someone who does knows for sure.
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DonTom, read up on LiPo charging techniques. A lot will become clear...
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As to server PS, if they are cheap enough and can be tuned up to 114VDC-116VDC, then don't transport them on the bike, leave any that are needed the places, such as home or work, where the charging is to be done.
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As to server PS, if they are cheap enough and can be tuned up to 114VDC-116VDC, then don't transport them on the bike, leave any that are needed the places, such as home or work, where the charging is to be done.
I am crious why you say don't transport them on the bike.
I sometimes take a Zero Quick charger (weight of these are about the same as the side case capacity, ten lbs) with a server "Y" cable so I can charge twice the speed at a ChargePoint or wherever. The SR with PWR tank needs all the help it can get to recharge. Even with two chargers, the wait is quite long with the SR w/pwr tank.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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They are made for a server room, not to be bolted onto a bike frame or rack, but I imagine in a shock-absorbing pelican case, they might last you a bit. But they aren't potted or waterproofed, they are not intended for vehicular use.
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They are made for a server room, not to be bolted onto a bike frame or rack, but I imagine in a shock-absorbing pelican case, they might last you a bit. But they aren't potted or waterproofed, they are not intended for vehicular use.
OIC. I was thinking about the way I carry mine. In a saddlebag that is rather water-proof.
Charging on the road isn't much of an issue with me, as I own 8 motorcycles, six are ICEs. I normally only use the Zeros for short distances, but sometimes it's nice to be able to extend the range a bit while having a meal or whatever. I find these E-cycles so fun to ride as long as I am not trying for a long distance.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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I found the technical datasheet of the power supply nexus 7000 but not so much information about outputs. It seems that is 50v-120A.
I understood that the overcurrent protection of PSUs shall be "constant current type" to simulate a dedicated charger.
If overcurrent occurs, this PSU shut down: https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/support/docs/switches/nexus-7000-series-switches/118956-technote-n7k-00.html (https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/support/docs/switches/nexus-7000-series-switches/118956-technote-n7k-00.html)
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It says
PS_1 total capacity: 6000 W Voltage:50V
PS_2 total capacity: 6000 W Voltage:50V
PS_3 total capacity: 6000 W Voltage:50V
It says there are two 3000 watt "chords" for each of the above as well, and that they take 220vac. No indication of how they react to being overvolted or undervolted. Yesterday, I saw stations running less than 200V and the Diginow handled them just fine.
It doesn't indicate that the voltage is at all tunable. That makes sense to me, since this appears to be a power supply for a very specific Cisco switch.
If you want to repurpose a nonvehicular supply, You'll need to find ones that can be set to 116v max or ones that have isolated DC output so they can be stacked, like Burton does with his Meanwell stack (and Terry and Brandon used to do).
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Charging on the road isn't much of an issue with me, as I own 8 motorcycles, six are ICEs. I normally only use the Zeros for short distances, but sometimes it's nice to be able to extend the range a bit while having a meal or whatever. I find these E-cycles so fun to ride as long as I am not trying for a long distance.
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Brandon was telling us how he used to ride all around LA with no charger at all, since he had chargers stashed at various places... : - )