ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: TargeT on April 11, 2013, 08:43:00 PM
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So I bought my bike sight unseen from a dealer and had it shipped to me (fully charged so I could ride it out of the port).
The dealer didn't tell me to do anything, there's no book or thumbdrive, all I got was 2 helmets, 2 sets of keys a charging cord & my Zero.
So I checked the tire pressure and rode it to work in eco mode (fun! I'll try sport at lunch)
What should a new owner do with these bikes, does zero maintence and zero engine break in really mean I just get to ride it?
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While I did read the entire owner's manual that was on the flash drive that I received with my 2012 Zero, I didn't have to do anything other than ride the bike and plug it in when I was not riding it. The 2012 owner's manual does not mention any need to follow a break-in procedure. However, it is always a good idea to be careful with the brakes so that they seat-in properly (don't overhead the pads when they are new) and the tires typically need a little riding to scrub them in. Otherwise just ride the bike while you get the feel for its performance and the range that you can get out of the battery pack. These are all things that you are probably doing anyway. :) I don't think anything else need to be done as part of the break-in of a new Zero.
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Yes! Ride it like a normal commuter, and plug it in to charge when you can.
Keep an eye on the lights for charging in case they blink rapidly or otherwise look abnormal.
The regular maintenance involves brake pads, tires, drive belt tension, and so on. Make sure any bolts and fasteners aren't loose - the manual lists the swingarm pivot bolt at 75ft-lbs torque and the rest at or below 38 or so, which matches other bikes I've known. I've ordered a Motion Pro belt tension gauge. The manual says the regular service interval is 4,000 miles for those checks.
The recommended pressures for front and rear are 32/35psi. I keep mine a little higher than that.
Try to get a manual from Zero or the dealer. I was sent a "Draft Mode" PDF after a week or two over email. Hopefully I'll get a final version in case there are corrections I'm missing.
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Try to get a manual from Zero or the dealer. I was sent a "Draft Mode" PDF after a week or two over email. Hopefully I'll get a final version in case there are corrections I'm missing.
I mentioned in another part of this forum that the last time I looked at that draft owner's manual it still had stuff pertaining to 2012 and not 2013 in it. Example: Moving the motor to adjust the belt / chain. Don't try to do that on your 2013! :-[
Trikester
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Well I've got 26 miles on it and I think I have the key-sprocket issue, called my dealer & they are seeing what they can do to help me out; I guess I won't be riding much for a while :-/
OH WELL, hopefully it all works out, the bike is pretty fun to ride and the lack of sound makes for a very relaxing ride
I should have ridden it in sport, stayed in eco to get used to it & now it's going to sit for a bit :(
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Don't forget standard warnings about new tires.
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I mentioned in another part of this forum that the last time I looked at that draft owner's manual it still had stuff pertaining to 2012 and not 2013 in it. Example: Moving the motor to adjust the belt / chain. Don't try to do that on your 2013! :-[
Indeed. Thankfully that error is pretty obvious, at least to me from doing chain adjustments for years now.
A manual with some final QA on it would be great.
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I got mine just this last Saturday and I got a sheet with instructions for the "running-in" period (first 30 partial cycles). I'll scan it tomorrow and post.
Cheers!
+ m
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We just got our 2013 Zero MX and have been modifying it for flat track racing.
Finally we had it completed enough to test it last weekend.
Apparently, it was the first 2013 Zero MX they made and, appropriate to the name,
had Zero instructions with it. :-) One thing we did find out was battery charging.
Since the charger is external to the MX it needs to be connected to both the 120vac
and the bike. However it does not charge properly if the charger is connected to the
120vac and then the bike (at least on our machine). it must be 1st connected to
the machine and THEN the 120vac.
That might be obvious to others but it was not to us.
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I got mine just this last Saturday and I got a sheet with instructions for the "running-in" period (first 30 partial cycles). I'll scan it tomorrow and post.
Cheers!
+ m
I'd be interested in seeing that.
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We just got our 2013 Zero MX and have been modifying it for flat track racing.
Finally we had it completed enough to test it last weekend.
Apparently, it was the first 2013 Zero MX they made and, appropriate to the name,
had Zero instructions with it. :-) One thing we did find out was battery charging.
Since the charger is external to the MX it needs to be connected to both the 120vac
and the bike. However it does not charge properly if the charger is connected to the
120vac and then the bike (at least on our machine). it must be 1st connected to
the machine and THEN the 120vac.
That might be obvious to others but it was not to us.
I have been using 12V "battery maintainers" for years on my IC motorcycles and I too have found through trial and error that you must connect the charger to the battery first and then connect it to the 120V outlet in order to get it to work right. If you do it the other way around, the charger might not start charging (it will show a fully charged batter when that is not the case ) or might start charging and continue to charge without turning off when it should.
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I have scanned the two documents the dealer gave me; one for the Running-In Period, and the other has Guidelines for Cold and Hot Weather Operation and Storage.
Cheers!
+m
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It sure would have been nice if I had the information about the break-in cycles, when I got the new bike. A few days after I got my 2013 FX I ran it until cutoff to find out what my mileage was (46 miles). I was not given any information from Zero regarding a running-in period. No printed information came with the FX. I hope I didn't do permanent damage to my battery pack.
The posting my Mehve is the first I've heard about only using 1/3 of capacity for the first 30 cycles. On my FX gauge that first 1/3 is gone very quickly. A very short ride. >:(
Trikester
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only using 1/3 of capacity for the first 30 cycles. On my FX gauge that first 1/3 is gone very quickly. A very short ride. >:(
Trikester
it actualy doesn't say to only use the first 1/3, it does however say not to completely drain the batteries, it says it consideres the first cycle after you have used up at least 1/3 the batteries & that you should basically leave it always plugged in.
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Hi fellow Zero owners,
So I called Brock at Zero HQ, the documents posted pertain to the 2011 and 2010 Zero's not 2012 or 2013. Although some points carry over, always leaving plugged in to balance, and can't charge below Zero. The rest are only 2010 and 2011.
Also your dealer should be able to down load a copy of the Owner’s manual or you can call Zero HQ and they will ship you a copy.
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I just looked again at the 2013 Owner's Manual (Draft dated Dec. 21), and there is nothing about a run-in period. Perhaps the newer (2012-2013) batteries and BMS do not require a break-in period?
However, I do hope its true about the capacity increasing with time and usage, as my 11.4 kWh battery indicates it is full at around 10.6 kWh.
EastSider
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I did notice a definite increase in the range of my 2012 DS after a number of long rides.
Too soon to tell on my 2013 FX but I am expecting an increase with early usage. That seems to be the way of the lithium battery.
Trikester
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We're getting different info that's for sure. The two sheets were presented to me at the dealer and they were saying that the run-in period was also new to them. I'll relay this thread and let them figure it out. It's pretty important to get consistent info across the board, not just for us here but other owners who aren't on here.
It sure would be nice to get an up-to date manual to go with an expensive piece of gear that we want to make sure lasts a good long while.
+m
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Both maximum and nominal capacity ratings are calculated by multiplying a certain pack voltage times nominal bank capacity.
Maximum capacity selects the charge cut-off voltage 114 V. 114 V x 100 Ah is 11.4 kWh.
Nominal capacity selects an intermediate voltage of 100 V. 100 V x 100 Ah is 10.0 kWh. Note that the pack voltage will vary from 114 V to approximately 86 V as it discharges; so 100 V is a rough approximation of average voltage over the entire range of discharge.
Nominal capacity is a rough approximation of actual energy stored in the pack, but it's much closer than maximum capacity. The ZF11.4 pack can never provide 11.4 kWh under any remotely reasonable circumstances, but probably can provide 10.0 kWh under moderate discharge and temperature conditions.
Another way to think of it is approximating distance traveled in two ways:
1. Total trip duration times highest observed speed (= maximum capacity)
2. Total trip duration times a median observed speed (= nominal capacity)
All this is another way of saying, 10.6 kWh energy used for a "full" charge of the pack is pretty good; Zero probably doesn't permit full discharges to the manufacturer's cutoff voltage (perhaps 90-95% total energy) and charging wall-to-battery is probably around 85% efficient. 10.0 kWh * 0.90 / 0.85 = 10.6 kWh to charge, approximately.
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Both maximum and nominal capacity ratings are calculated by multiplying a certain pack voltage times nominal bank capacity.
Maximum capacity selects the charge cut-off voltage 114 V. 114 V x 100 Ah is 11.4 kWh.
Nominal capacity selects an intermediate voltage of 100 V. 100 V x 100 Ah is 10.0 kWh. Note that the pack voltage will vary from 114 V to approximately 86 V as it discharges; so 100 V is a rough approximation of average voltage over the entire range of discharge.
Nominal capacity is a rough approximation of actual energy stored in the pack, but it's much closer than maximum capacity. The ZF11.4 pack can never provide 11.4 kWh under any remotely reasonable circumstances, but probably can provide 10.0 kWh under moderate discharge and temperature conditions.
Another way to think of it is approximating distance traveled in two ways:
1. Total trip duration times highest observed speed (= maximum capacity)
2. Total trip duration times a median observed speed (= nominal capacity)
All this is another way of saying, 10.6 kWh energy used for a "full" charge of the pack is pretty good; Zero probably doesn't permit full discharges to the manufacturer's cutoff voltage (perhaps 90-95% total energy) and charging wall-to-battery is probably around 85% efficient. 10.0 kWh * 0.90 / 0.85 = 10.6 kWh to charge, approximately.
That is a great, illuminating explanation, protomech. Thank you!
-EastSider