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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: kensiko on March 31, 2014, 07:53:41 PM
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Hello,
I finally had my first ride of the year! It was over 0 Celcius on Saturday here and I had 1 hour to ride, so I took it! The snow was melting so there was a lot of water on the road. This water included also salt and gravel. I felt the water in my back while driving and when I arrived, I saw that I was a lot of dirt on the bike and at the back on my coat.
My last bike was doing this but I think this one is worse.
I assume Zero sells a bigger rear wheel fender at a premium price. Any suggestion?
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I have the same problem when riding through a damp puddle. The rear fender sucks and I am pretty sure that Zero does not make an alternative. :( (When did fenders become just two long rods holding up a license plate? ??? )
On the other hand, the Zero accessory rack and top box work pretty well for intercepting rear wheel-flung debris. Maybe that is the accessory rear fender you were thinking of? ::)
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Maybe, that's 500$ right?
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Maybe, that's 500$ right?
More like $550, I believe. ::)
P.S. The new Givi top boxes will not work on their older mounting plates, as I found out this weekend when I tried mounting my Zero-supplied Givi E340 top box to my R1200R's Givi mounting plate that I bought about 5 years ago. A couple of miles down the road, it fell off and then kept doing so every 1/2 mile all the way back home. (It is pretty rugged and bounces nicely on the pavement. The resulting scuff marks are not too obvious on the flat black plastic finish and the box still functions fine.) It turns out that the new box has a reinforcing bulge on the bottom of the box's metal locking mechanism, which requires a corresponding small cutout in the plate's plastic hook. My old model plate did not have that cutout and therefore the new box would not lock to the plate as it was designed to do. However, my old E30 box will work on the new plate just fine. Live and learn. ::)
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Can you still bring the wife with this box installed?
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Can you still bring the wife with this box installed?
The backrest included makes this pretty obvious, but my girlfriend is more comfortable with a top box on, simply for the assurance that she won't fall off the back!
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I think that would do the job too?
http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_7&products_id=117 (http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_7&products_id=117)
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Can you still bring the wife with this box installed?
My wife would never agree to be taken anywhere in a box! [emoji12]
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Sorry I think I didn't use the correct word, how should I say it ?
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I have the same problem when riding through a damp puddle. The rear fender sucks and I am pretty sure that Zero does not make an alternative. :( (When did fenders become just two long rods holding up a license plate? ??? )
On the other hand, the Zero accessory rack and top box work pretty well for intercepting rear wheel-flung debris. Maybe that is the accessory rear fender you were thinking of? ::)
I agree all over the rear up the back seat and on your back also the heat sink on the motor controller. That fender hugger needs to be be extended.
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I found out last week that very fine silt from a moderate rainfall on asphalt easily makes its way into the key hole (even past the teeny little door) of the Givi side-cases. So I'll be working on something that not only keeps water/mud from splashing up on my back, but also from splashing sideways.
(I think it's deplorable that Zero considers the bike more of a fashion statement than a commuter).
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I found out last week that very fine silt from a moderate rainfall on asphalt easily makes its way into the key hole (even past the teeny little door) of the Givi side-cases. So I'll be working on something that not only keeps water/mud from splashing up on my back, but also from splashing sideways.
That has not happened to any Givi cases of mine in eight years. Check the case locking fit in this case before you go designing something. Usually I find that it's not closing fully because I've shoved too large gear into it.
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No, the case closes just fine. It's just that the lock mechanism now has a bit of very fine silt or clay in it. Just a bit more friction in there is the only obvious difference. However, I'll definitely need to shield it before too many more rain days. In the short term, I suspect a bit of WD-40 will flush the grit out.
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No, the case closes just fine. It's just that the lock mechanism now has a bit of very fine silt or clay in it. Just a bit more friction in there is the only obvious difference. However, I'll definitely need to shield it before too many more rain days. In the short term, I suspect a bit of WD-40 will flush the grit out.
That's how I fixed mine...WD-40 after power washing the top box and making sure to spray the key hole...I only had a problem after winter ridding but no more problems after a little WD-40. I imagine I'll have to do it again after this next winter.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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(I think it's deplorable that Zero considers the bike more of a fashion statement than a commuter).
This is partly true.
The majority of moto riders are fair weather riders. You are hard core and a corner case. You do the same thing I do and only crazy people ride in the rain!
The stock rear tail on a S/SR does block any direct water fling off the tire.
Zero does sell a fender extender that may do something, but water spray is always going to get around.
What it does not do is prevent aerodynamic turbulence that swirls spray all over the place. The fender
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Zero does sell a fender extender that may do something, but water spray is always going to get around.
What it does not do is prevent aerodynamic turbulence that swirls spray all over the place.
Yeah, I'm sure that they could make some fairly easy money if they made a conventional plastic fender which replaced the chopped off version, and then sold it as an extra. Same goes for the front fender. That would please both the fair weather riders and the commuters.
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Zero does sell a fender extender that may do something, but water spray is always going to get around.
What it does not do is prevent aerodynamic turbulence that swirls spray all over the place.
Yeah, I'm sure that they could make some fairly easy money if they made a conventional plastic fender which replaced the chopped off version, and then sold it as an extra. Same goes for the front fender. That would please both the fair weather riders and the commuters.
The money would not be that easy. Zero just does not have the volume. They sell ~2000 motorcycles a year. Injecting molding molds can be US$20,000 in Asia, so they would have to sell a lot of fenders to make easy money. That is what I do for a living.
As I said before, rain riders are a corner case most are fair weather riders = not a large market.
Now, making a fiberglass fender on a foam mold would not be that hard.
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As I noted previously, I'm not impressed with the Zero fender. I'll also note that it allows road grit to build up on the motor's cooling fins -- definitely not a good thing.
Fender arrived in the mail yesterday. Inexpensive, both for the fender and the shipping, but it took a few weeks to get here from China. Decent quality, and the packaging was fine.
Amazingly, it fits fairly well with the Zero's stock amputated fender. I did chop off the last little inch or two which rises vertically, since it could conceivably hit the license plate holder.
I put a threaded rod (3/8", I think) through the axle. Snugged it up by wrapping some motorcycle inner tube and friction tape around the rod. All the rest should be self explanatory.
I'll shortly be painting it with aluminum etching primer and black rust paint (I don't want it to stand out).
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I bought the same rear fender extender as you off eBay. It's for some Harley bike. Haven't gotten to installing it yet. I probably would go with brackets through the axle like you did. Can you post a photo of the way you attached it to the OEM fender stub thingy?
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I bought the same rear fender extender as you off eBay. It's for some Harley bike. Haven't gotten to installing it yet. I probably would go with brackets through the axle like you did. Can you post a photo of the way you attached it to the OEM fender stub thingy?
Yep, I'll get a photo on there soon. But essentially all I did was overlap the two fenders by a couple of inches or so (new under old), drill four holes, and use nylon nuts/bolts to tie them together.
This morning, I went back out there and laid a straight-edge on the fender and the nearest tangent of the tire. Looks like the fender will even keep spray off of the cooling fins of whatever it is that sits directly under the seat (would it be the CPU?).
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I bought the same rear fender extender as you off eBay. It's for some Harley bike. Haven't gotten to installing it yet. I probably would go with brackets through the axle like you did. Can you post a photo of the way you attached it to the OEM fender stub thingy?
Yep, I'll get a photo on there soon. But essentially all I did was overlap the two fenders by a couple of inches or so (new under old), drill four holes, and use nylon nuts/bolts to tie them together.
This morning, I went back out there and laid a straight-edge on the fender and the nearest tangent of the tire. Looks like the fender will even keep spray off of the cooling fins of whatever it is that sits directly under the seat (would it be the CPU?).
That's the SEVCON motor controller under the seat with the huge heat sink. Size 4 (420amp) for S/DS and size 6 (660amp) for SR/DSR.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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I bought the same rear fender extender as you off eBay. It's for some Harley bike. Haven't gotten to installing it yet. I probably would go with brackets through the axle like you did. Can you post a photo of the way you attached it to the OEM fender stub thingy?
Here it is. I just attached them together with some fairly small nylon nuts and bolts.
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Thanks! I got to get to installing mine soon. Got caught in some rain the other day and it would have been nice to have it.
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It looks very neat and tidy!
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Since the plastic fender from China only extends to about 1 o'clock (when looking at the sprocket), instead of to 3 o'clock (like our bicycle fenders did when we were kids), I had to add a splash guard. I would have preferred to have the wide part extend further back, but there's only so much room under there when it comes to inserting stuff.
It's made out of two pieces of 1/8", 3-ply plywood glu-lammed together. Attachment is via 16 gauge wire and a clamptite tool. The piece of aluminum with the 4 holes (serving as a washer) is to ensure that the wires can't bite into the plywood.
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Since the plastic fender from China only extends to about 1 o'clock (when looking at the sprocket), instead of to 3 o'clock (like our bicycle fenders did when we were kids), I had to add a splash guard. I would have preferred to have the wide part extend further back, but there's only so much room under there when it comes to inserting stuff.
It's made out of two pieces of 1/8", 3-ply plywood glu-lammed together. Attachment is via 16 gauge wire and a clamptite tool. The piece of aluminum with the 4 holes (serving as a washer) is to ensure that the wires can't bite into the plywood.
Why not use cable ties?
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Since the plastic fender from China only extends to about 1 o'clock (when looking at the sprocket), instead of to 3 o'clock (like our bicycle fenders did when we were kids), I had to add a splash guard. I would have preferred to have the wide part extend further back, but there's only so much room under there when it comes to inserting stuff.
It's made out of two pieces of 1/8", 3-ply plywood glu-lammed together. Attachment is via 16 gauge wire and a clamptite tool. The piece of aluminum with the 4 holes (serving as a washer) is to ensure that the wires can't bite into the plywood.
Why not use cable ties?
Galvanized wire doesn't degrade with UV. And if you do a proper job with the clamptite (which I didn't do), and the wires all line up, it's more aesthetically pleasing. And I'm always looking for excuses to use the clamptite tool (best thing to come along since the dremel tool).
At some point, I may re-do all the clamptite connections on the bike so that the wires don't overlap...just for aesthetics.
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Cable ties have been used on bikes for years, not sure how long they takes to degrade in sun light, but it would seem like many years. So at that time you replace them. They look 100 times better than the wire.
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Cable ties have been used on bikes for years, not sure how long they takes to degrade in sun light, but it would seem like many years. So at that time you replace them. They look 100 times better than the wire.
Cable ties might be OK for tying cables, but I'm not sure I'd want to depend on them year after year to hold up something that could drop on to my wheel or belt.
http://www.solarpowerworldonline.com/2016/03/not-all-uv-rated-cable-ties-have-long-lifespans-on-solar-projects/ (http://www.solarpowerworldonline.com/2016/03/not-all-uv-rated-cable-ties-have-long-lifespans-on-solar-projects/)
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Cable ties have been used on bikes for years, not sure how long they takes to degrade in sun light, but it would seem like many years. So at that time you replace them. They look 100 times better than the wire.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Here are the two clamptite attachments that I use to hold on my belt cover. The one on the right was done in haste, whereas the one on the left was done (re-done, actually) with a modicum of attention paid to the alignment of the wires. Both are equally strong, but obviously the one on the left is easier on the eyes. As for strength, I suspect that the tensile strength of the galvanized wire is much higher than plastic when comparing equal cross-sectional areas.
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As I noted previously, I'm not impressed with the Zero fender. I'll also note that it allows road grit to build up on the motor's cooling fins -- definitely not a good thing.
Fender arrived in the mail yesterday. Inexpensive, both for the fender and the shipping, but it took a few weeks to get here from China. Decent quality, and the packaging was fine.
Can you provide us with a link to the fender?
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As I noted previously, I'm not impressed with the Zero fender. I'll also note that it allows road grit to build up on the motor's cooling fins -- definitely not a good thing.
Fender arrived in the mail yesterday. Inexpensive, both for the fender and the shipping, but it took a few weeks to get here from China. Decent quality, and the packaging was fine.
Can you provide us with a link to the fender?
Actually, it was another member on another thread, and possibly even in the tech section who found it. But it's ebay, and bizarely, it was ebay.uk, even though it was mailed from China. I'll try and find it.
Edit: I guess it was Hong Kong. Anyway, just go on ebay.co.uk and search Harley Rear Fender. There's a ton of them, all the same as I've got.
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Just out of curiosity, did anyone tried the rain guard from the zero shop:
http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_18&products_id=231 (http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_18&products_id=231)
I'm following this thread because here in Holland it's more wet than dry this year unfortunately..
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Hoi Wijnand, i agree with you!
Ik heb zelf iets gemaakt wat op die fender lijkt van Zero zelf.
Echter is dat niet afdoende. Je wordt nog steeds nat van achter en de sevcon controller wordt ook vies..
Die van Zero zelf zal dezelfde problemen geven dus daar heb je niet veel aan...
greetz...
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As I noted previously, I'm not impressed with the Zero fender. I'll also note that it allows road grit to build up on the motor's cooling fins -- definitely not a good thing.
Fender arrived in the mail yesterday. Inexpensive, both for the fender and the shipping, but it took a few weeks to get here from China. Decent quality, and the packaging was fine.
Can you provide us with a link to the fender?
Actually, it was another member on another thread, and possibly even in the tech section who found it. But it's ebay, and bizarely, it was ebay.uk, even though it was mailed from China. I'll try and find it.
Edit: I guess it was Hong Kong. Anyway, just go on ebay.co.uk and search Harley Rear Fender. There's a ton of them, all the same as I've got.
I believe it was my link you were searching for :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Black-Outstanding-Rear-Mudguard-Fender-Accessory-Prevent-For-Harley-/251719364694?hash=item3a9ba4b056:g:cYoAAOSw~FNUZyo~ (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Black-Outstanding-Rear-Mudguard-Fender-Accessory-Prevent-For-Harley-/251719364694?hash=item3a9ba4b056:g:cYoAAOSw~FNUZyo~)
The link itself doesn't matter that much. This item is sold by many ebay vendors for slightly different prices, although they are probably all made by the same manufacturer. The original thread was here:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5619.msg41496#msg41496 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5619.msg41496#msg41496)
I bought the fender mostly to stop pebbles from going into the belt at the engine cogwheel, the zero rainguard would not help anything for that (and it was first sold later than i bought mine).
I don't get wet up on my back with this and the topbox, however, as quixotic stated, it is slightly too short for becoming a perfect rainguard. It is possible though that it could be combined with the Zero one.
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I need to remember to get one of these when I pick up my new DSR when it arrives! I ride year around in Seattle!
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I need to remember to get one of these when I pick up my new DSR when it arrives! I ride year around in Seattle!
Nice. I started on a 2013 DS in Seattle, year-round. Make sure to use Eco-mode when it's wet out! Particularly when the leaves fall!
The OEM rear fender or the top rack will at least prevent muddy spray from hitting you from over the tail.
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I bought mine off eBay from what seemed to be the only seller who had them in the US and shipped within a couple of days (everyone else seems to be in China or Malaysia,, places that take weeks to a month to deliver). Price was a couple of bucks more expensive, but still something like $15 delivered. Still have to put it, but seems to be a good fir just eyeballing it. Need to make some brackets for the rear...
I need to remember to get one of these when I pick up my new DSR when it arrives! I ride year around in Seattle!
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I'm really interested on how to mount this (or any other aftermarket) fender. The options on the bike are not huge. Anyone who have installed this yet? Love to see the pictures:-)
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I'm really interested on how to mount this (or any other aftermarket) fender. The options on the bike are not huge. Anyone who have installed this yet? Love to see the pictures:-)
Just have a look back on the previous pages in this thread. There are a few photos.
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I'm really interested on how to mount this (or any other aftermarket) fender. The options on the bike are not huge. Anyone who have installed this yet? Love to see the pictures:-)
There are some if you browse the forum, here are two more...
Mounting to the existing mudguard is easy, just simply drill a hole or two and use a screw with a big head and or washer. Mounting to the swingarm can be done in several ways, all depending on what kind of struts you can find for the job. I think quixotic solution in this thread is prettier than mine.
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I probably should have posted this here:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5619.msg48520#msg48520 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5619.msg48520#msg48520)
- New struts for my rear wheel fender, added two pictures...
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Ooh that looks nice. Are the new mountings sturdier?
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Good work yhafting, got to paint those black though. ><
As someone already mentioned, zero now sells a rain guard. I think it's $25.
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It's a frigging €40 over here -_-
Also why not both.
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Ooh that looks nice. Are the new mountings sturdier?
Thanks, i would say about the equally sturdy as the previous. :)
They are simpler and smaller and much easier to detach/attach, but the previous were mostly aluminium, tightly clamped to the swing arm. These are 5mm thick ABS plastic with a dense cross hatch pattern internally. They are both printed lying sideways, so that the plastic threads are continous from top to bottom.
If i needed much stiffer, i guess it could be soaked in epoxy and wrapped in carbon fibre. However it seems sturdy enough, and i prefer that it breaks gracefully rather than violently if something got caught in it. The main thing is that they hold the fender up while being reasonably stiff- the shape of the fender provides stability once held up on both sides.
All i need now is to add some paint, but that may take a while due to the cold weather...
To WoadRaider- This "Harley" fender serves a purpose the Zero rainguard does not provide; it protects the belt by stopping small pebbles from flying from the rear wheel into the motor sprocket. The protection it provides for the rider is only a bonus to me- and then i also bought it before the Zero one came to market.
If you buy the fender i have on ebay for $12-15 and own a 3D-printer, the total price should be within the range of the Zero one. (I would reccommend ABS or nylon rather than PLA though- since PLA has a tendency to warp in the sun).
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Here is the final version.
The zip file containing the struts STL files (using mm as format), if anyone want to use them (at their own risk).
The rings are needed to secure the right side, and i used one as a spacer on the left side. They are made to fit outside the rear axle mount on the right side- using the same diameter as the right strut. If using FDM printing i would reccomend ABS and carefully selecting orientation to gain maximum strength for the struts (laying sideways). I have used 0.2mm as tolerance (that is .4 in total for diameters). This may be slightly tight with the screws, depending on layer thickness.
The most difficult part in the whole process is aligning the fender perfectly with the rear wheel hugger- since there are no center guide. Using more than two bolts through the hugger may give slightly more clearance between the tire and the fender. On my bike the rear hugger has greater distance between the right side of the wheel than the left side, but the initial positioning i made has worked well for me all this season.
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Nice! I got to get to install mine... I'm being lazy. Can you remind me what you use and the diameter to secure it inside the axel? I was thinking of buying a pair of expanding anchors from the hardware store. And they sell aluminum strips for a couple of bucks each, that I think can easily be shaped into something similar to your printed ABS, so I'll probably go for that method or a metal round rod...
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Nice! I got to get to install mine... I'm being lazy. Can you remind me what you use and the diameter to secure it inside the axel? I was thinking of buying a pair of expanding anchors from the hardware store. And they sell aluminum strips for a couple of bucks each, that I think can easily be shaped into something similar to your printed ABS, so I'll probably go for that method or a metal round rod...
I'm sorry but i forgot, and i didn't make a note on paper- it is all in the STL file (-.4 on the diameter), but measuring probably is/was faster.
Did your installation go well? :)
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I'm still procrastinating... Too may other things to do first...
Nice! I got to get to install mine... I'm being lazy. Can you remind me what you use and the diameter to secure it inside the axel? I was thinking of buying a pair of expanding anchors from the hardware store. And they sell aluminum strips for a couple of bucks each, that I think can easily be shaped into something similar to your printed ABS, so I'll probably go for that method or a metal round rod...
I'm sorry but i forgot, and i didn't make a note on paper- it is all in the STL file (-.4 on the diameter), but measuring probably is/was faster.
Did your installation go well? :)
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...
Actually, it was another member on another thread, and possibly even in the tech section who found it. But it's ebay, and bizarely, it was ebay.uk, even though it was mailed from China. I'll try and find it.
Edit: I guess it was Hong Kong. Anyway, just go on ebay.co.uk and search Harley Rear Fender. There's a ton of them, all the same as I've got.
Like this kind? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Black-Mudguard-Fender-For-Harley-Sportster-Solo-Bobber-Chopper-Cafe-RacerEV/272851293625
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Since i got new 150/70 tires, the fender felt a little close to the wheel, thus i mounted the fender on the outside of the OEM rear wheel hugger.
I think it looks better this way. I used duct tape on the inside to avoid gravel piling up at the junction between the fender and the hugger. (Having the fender on the inside that wont be an issue, but it seems the duct tape sits very well on both surfaces, so i feel confident that it will do the job. I also believe using just one hole in the mudguard is more than good enough as long as the struts are stable- which i believe the current design is. The duct tape on the top is for plugging the original mounting hole.
If anyone want to attempt the same, it is possible to use the existing holes in the harley fender and just drill one hole in the rear wheel hugger.
EDIT: I found out that having the end of the fender this far back caused the bike to hit the fender when the rear shock absorber was fully compressed (riding with passenger). This broke my struts, which was OK, and i have now sawed off the end to give the bike more space for traveling when bouncing.
For anyone attempting similar modifications- pay attention to the placement of the rear fender end. There is a certain "sweet spot" where it has more space, but don't count to much on it. Modifying the fender so that it doesn't stick to far out at the end is probably the best option in any case.
Links to the Harley mudguard- it comes with many names and price tags:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Protector-UK-Guard-Protector-Rear-Mudguard-Fender-for-Harley-Sportster/112995555345?hash=item1a4f0f5811:g:ki0AAOSwwE5WatMq&vxp=mtr
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Rear-Mudguard-Fender-For-Harley-Sportster-Solo-Bobber-Chopper-Cafe-Racer/32827741416.html
https://www.ebay.com/p/Black-Motorcycle-Rear-Mudguard-Fender-Accessory-Cafe-Racer-for-Harley-Sportster/16002700949?iid=232365568327&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50998%26meid%3D16b99b492d124e0dbbbb8ca86f48817a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D112995555345%26itm%3D232365568327&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851