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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Burton on April 15, 2014, 07:04:38 PM
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I am not home right now or I would check for markings but I was wondering if anyone knew how many amps the 12v accessory circuit is limited to. Is it only a function of the fuse you use or is there a hard value?
I am trying to plan out all of my power needs for the bike during my break time at work :)
I want to run a set of auxiliary lights, most likely heated grips, and several other goodies.
Oh also does anyone know the amps on the horn circuit?
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The accessory plug is limited to 10A. The horn may also be 10A, but need to confirm.
The DC/DC converter is limited to a maximum of 400 watts, at least on the 2012 bikes.
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Wonder if any solution was identied for exceeding the 10amps on the accessory circuit. I'd like to run heated gear & grips at the same time. Getting cold here, 10c in the forecast for tomorrow's ride to work.
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I've tucked away a small trailer brake battery in the space under the seat, I wired it with a schottky diode so the accessory plug charges it and the plug is still live with the bike off, I haven't run heated gear off it but it may act as a buffer when all the heaters are on at the same time
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Wonder if any solution was identied for exceeding the 10amps on the accessory circuit. I'd like to run heated gear & grips at the same time. Getting cold here, 10c in the forecast for tomorrow's ride to work.
I ran heated gloves and jacket last winter no problem. I Have yet to blow anything yet and I ran heated gear nearly every day last winter since I don't have fairings on the bike. Double check the fuse size coming out of the dc:dc converter to make sure it is rated at 30 amps on the major accessories lines (at least for 2013 models)
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I ran heated gloves and jacket last winter no problem. I Have yet to blow anything yet and I ran heated gear nearly every day last winter since I don't have fairings on the bike. Double check the fuse size coming out of the dc:dc converter to make sure it is rated at 30 amps on the major accessories lines (at least for 2013 models)
Interesting, so are you saying you ran a new line off the DC:DC converter? I don't think the wiring for the accessory circuit is heavy duty enough to handle 30 amps.
The additional battery idea is an interesting one as well, I didn't think there was enough under seat space for anything that large. Do you have the brand/model of the one you used?. I wasn't familiar with the idea of a schottky diode / battery isolator, but it is intriguing to me. Would this (http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/12v-dual-battery-isolator/A-p8511875e) isolator work in a similar fashion?
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I think that isolator is a bit of overkill, the battery I used was a $30 trailer brake battery, it measures (approx ) 5x5x3" , I'll get the info tomorrow from the parts supplier we use at work, other than a $2-3 diode and some left over pipe insulation , plus a few feet of wire, it is very simple to assemble with a bit of soldering, after I tried it out I added a 5amp fuse to protect the circuit if the battery craps out/shorts
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I have three total DC to DC converters
The sevcon one for accessories (runs everything including heated gear and my led headlight)
One which is 12vdc to 5vdc for my foot brake running off controller analog positive out channel
And one connected to the pack voltage input to the sevcon DC to DC converter for my RFID ignition ...
When in double add any extra DC to DC converts off the input of the existing one. Look at my wire diagram to see what I mean or look up "always on power source" to see how I ran my RFID circuit as there is a video showing the wires in question.
The big DC to DC convert is rated 300w @ 13.5v out and 96v input. But the input is often 100-116 which means you are looking at only a couple amps across the input lines. They can handle more if you need more accessories.
I know several people here have simply installed another DC to DC converter at this location. You can often get away with a at to DC converter there as well since the ac is just rectified (google it or look it up here)
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I think that isolator is a bit of overkill, the battery I used was a $30 trailer brake battery, it measures (approx ) 5x5x3" , I'll get the info tomorrow from the parts supplier we use at work, other than a $2-3 diode and some left over pipe insulation , plus a few feet of wire, it is very simple to assemble with a bit of soldering, after I tried it out I added a 5amp fuse to protect the circuit if the battery craps out/shorts
Hmm, if you can post more details on how to wire it up I would appreciate it. I found this (http://www.canadianhitches.ca/curt-battery-charger-52023/) battery, dimensions are 4 IN Tall x 3 1/2 IN Wide x 2 3/4 IN Deep. Sounds like it might fit in the compartment under the seat.
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I replaced the accessory circuit fuse with a 15 AMP per the requirement for my low/high beam Rigid Industries D2 driving lights. Absolutely no issues. Additionally I am replacing the H4 headlight with a unit that uses about half the 55 watt (low beam - generating 900 Lumens ) and 60 watt (high beam generating 1650 lumens). The new LED unit pulls 23.8 watts and 1.7 amps on low beam while producing 2025 Lumens and on the high beam uses 37.8 watts and 2.7 amps while producing 2925 Lumens.
The D2 driving lights pull 8 watts and .06 amps while producing ~600 lumens each on low beam and on high beam produces ~3,096 lumens and uses only 34.5 watts and 2.5 amps. The pair are mounted on the front fork and really throw some great light.
So even with everything running on "high" I am only pulling ~ 110 watts total generating ~9000 lumens (high beam) and ~3200 lumens on low beam using only 40 watts verses the old system that generated at peak only ~1650 lumens using 60 watts.
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I replaced the accessory circuit fuse with a 15 AMP per the requirement for my low/high beam Rigid Industries D2 driving lights. Absolutely no issues. Additionally I am replacing the H4 headlight with a unit that uses less than half the 55 watt (low beam) and 65 watt (high beam).
The D2 lights pull 8 watts each on low beam and 34 watts each on high beam..
Even on high beam 2 34 = 68 watts @ 12v would only be 5.6 amps right, so I'm not sure I understand why they would require a 15 amp fuse?
I had assumed going to a 15 amp fuse would be an issue but just did some reading, according to this chart (http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-volt-wire-gauge-amps.htm) you are good with 18 gauge wire up to 7 feet up to 15 amps. I think the wire used by the Zero accessory circuit is thicker than 18 gauge.
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i suspect the spec is the longer wire runs you would use in a car/truck. I did run the lights on 10 AMP for day, but followed the manufacturers guidelines for the lights and popped a 15 amp fuse in. I don't want these suckers going out somewhere are on a dark trail at night...reminds me i need to duct tape an extra fuse somewhere.
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http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3603.msg20961#msg20961 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3603.msg20961#msg20961) (download grid version)
Look at B5.
On the 2013 you want to splice into the 16awg wires orange / black (pin 3), and orange / red (pin 1) if you only want the power on while bike is on. (this is pack voltage)
If the colors are not the same on your bike the inputs to the dc/dc converter, if the same, will still be these pins. http://www.sevcon.com/media/2661/300W%20DCDC%20July2015.pdf (http://www.sevcon.com/media/2661/300W%20DCDC%20July2015.pdf)
I will double check this when I get home as I simply used positaps to accomplish this.
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What is the cost of an additional Sevcon DC to DC converter? Because the auxiliary 12V trailer battery solution is pretty inexpensive...
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A sevcon branded DC to DC converter won't be cheap.
The question is how many Amps do you require. You might be able to find a cheap AC to DC converter with the amps you require pretty cheap.
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Burton: Please post the link to your final version of the schematic. I never found that as I know you went through a number of iterations getting there.
Thanks, Trikester
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The last link I provided on this post should take you to the original post with two attachments at the bottom.
I wouldn't call them "final versions" as I suspect there is still stuff missing from them. And since I don't have a stock 2013 bike to compare them to I can't verify this. If anyone wants to take on the task of checking all 160-170 connections and adaptors then report back to me what is different I will gladly update the diagram.
ZeroWireDrawing_2013_S_11-4_R-1-1-2_highRes_no-grid.pdf (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3603.0;attach=4195)
ZeroWireDrawing_2013_S_11-4_R-1-1-2_grid_highRes.pdf (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3603.0;attach=4196)
these will link back to the attachments on that original thread found here:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3603.msg20961#msg20961 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3603.msg20961#msg20961)