ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Straightedg4lif on June 25, 2015, 09:16:23 PM
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Hello all, I am sure that most people have read all of my questions about purchasing an SR, but wanted to know if anyone has had their bike lowered yet? Me being a shorter rider, definitely will be getting my bike lowered some way. Just not sure which would be the best option available. I would like it to be as low as possible for me since I am only 5'3. Does anyone know if they have a shorter shock, or if I can have it shortened? Lowering the suspension and how much can it be lowered? I know that I would also need to lower the front of the bike as well so that it is equal. I also know a lot of people who would recommend that I not lower the bike since it messes with how well the bike handles. Just trying to get some ideas and see if anyone has done it successfully yet and if so how low did you go?
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I lowered my 2013 FX. The front fork can be slid up in the clamp by one inch. For the rear I had a local shock repair / re-build for racing shop put a 3/4" spacer inside the shock, to stop its extension length by 3/4". Since it is about 2:1 lever ratio from the shock mount to the rear axle this would lower the rear of the bike by about 1 1/2".
I initially tried to find a shorter shock that would fit but I gave up on that and went with the spacer. Since that requires opening the shock and then re-charging it I had to have a shop do the work. The guy made a nylon spacer to fit the shaft and internal space.
Trikestyer
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I can't answer your question. However, I am about as tall as you and can touch both toes to the ground. For 99% of all stops though, I flat one foot on the ground with the other on the peg holding the rear brake. Not sure if this is your style, but doing it this way I doubt you'd have any problem whether or not you find your lowering kit.
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I can't answer your question. However, I am about as tall as you and can touch both toes to the ground. For 99% of all stops though, I flat one foot on the ground with the other on the peg holding the rear brake. Not sure if this is your style, but doing it this way I doubt you'd have any problem whether or not you find your lowering kit.
Are you able to back your bike up and feel secure doing so? I have to back my bike out of my driveway every morning, and I can't imagine trying to do that without having both feet in full contact with the ground. It may not be a problem very often, but I'd worry about the occasion when you have to back out of a parking space or something.
For the life of me I can't understand why the seat on my bike (2014 SR) needs to be six inches higher than the seat on my buddy's new Sportster.
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I can't answer your question. However, I am about as tall as you and can touch both toes to the ground. For 99% of all stops though, I flat one foot on the ground with the other on the peg holding the rear brake. Not sure if this is your style, but doing it this way I doubt you'd have any problem whether or not you find your lowering kit.
Are you able to back your bike up and feel secure doing so? I have to back my bike out of my driveway every morning, and I can't imagine trying to do that without having both feet in full contact with the ground. It may not be a problem very often, but I'd worry about the occasion when you have to back out of a parking space or something.
For the life of me I can't understand why the seat on my bike (2014 SR) needs to be six inches higher than the seat on my buddy's new Sportster.
I ride a DS in very hilly Seattle, and would love a reverse gear for backing uphill but generally just orient the bike ahead of time to avoid this. Backing up downhill is easy because of the perfect torque control.
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I can't answer your question. However, I am about as tall as you and can touch both toes to the ground. For 99% of all stops though, I flat one foot on the ground with the other on the peg holding the rear brake. Not sure if this is your style, but doing it this way I doubt you'd have any problem whether or not you find your lowering kit.
I personally like to be able to flat foot my bikes, or as close as possible to it anyway. It makes me feel a lot more comfortable, and puts my mind more at ease in certain situations. Especially when backing up the bike as Doug S has said or in stop and go traffic. I like to walk my bike in traffic, and not being able to put my feet firmly down makes me nervous in those situations.
I just hope the 2016's do not have a higher seat height than the 2015's .
I lowered my 2013 FX. The front fork can be slid up in the clamp by one inch. For the rear I had a local shock repair / re-build for racing shop put a 3/4" spacer inside the shock, to stop its extension length by 3/4". Since it is about 2:1 lever ratio from the shock mount to the rear axle this would lower the rear of the bike by about 1 1/2".
I initially tried to find a shorter shock that would fit but I gave up on that and went with the spacer. Since that requires opening the shock and then re-charging it I had to have a shop do the work. The guy made a nylon spacer to fit the shaft and internal space.
Trikestyer
Glad to hear someone that has lowered their bike and 1 1/2" is a good amount. May I ask what the problem was in finding a shorter shock, are they not made for Zero bikes at all?
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Are you able to back your bike up and feel secure doing so? I have to back my bike out of my driveway every morning, and I can't imagine trying to do that without having both feet in full contact with the ground. It may not be a problem very often, but I'd worry about the occasion when you have to back out of a parking space or something.
For the life of me I can't understand why the seat on my bike (2014 SR) needs to be six inches higher than the seat on my buddy's new Sportster.
Backing the bike does take longer on my toes than flat on my feet. Any time I need to back the bike up, it is almost always out of a parking spot and I always do that dismounted as the bike is "booting up".
I personally like to be able to flat foot my bikes, or as close as possible to it anyway. It makes me feel a lot more comfortable, and puts my mind more at ease in certain situations. Especially when backing up the bike as Doug S has said or in stop and go traffic. I like to walk my bike in traffic, and not being able to put my feet firmly down makes me nervous in those situations.
I do agree, it would be nice to flat both feet down and I'd be scared if I ever had to back up in traffic. Honestly, it is one of the big reasons why I originally wanted a cruiser, but riding this way for so long has made it weird for me to put both feet down even when I do get to ride a cruiser. Creeping it forward is amazingly effortless and precise on electric though.
I know it sounds like I'm just throwing compromises at you, but the fact stands that I'm a person your height who rides this bike originally with similar concerns, and all these issues may turn out to be non-issues for you just as it did for me.
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...or in stop and go traffic. I like to walk my bike in traffic, and not being able to put my feet firmly down makes me nervous in those situations.
One of the most striking things about these bikes is their perfect throttle control, down to and including zero speed. Walking the bike is fantastically easy -- you'll still want your feet down for balance, but you don't have to do any pushing at all. Just tickle the throttle a tiny bit and the bike will propel itself at any speed you want, even at sub-walking speed. I've loaded my bike into a trailer on a ramp and it's ten times easier than any other bike...just hold the handlebars and walk next to the bike as it powers up the ramp very slowly. That kind of precision is very difficult to achieve with a clutch on an ICE bike.
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They are also *reasonably* easy to push when you run out of juice... not that I'd know :-[
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I do agree, it would be nice to flat both feet down and I'd be scared if I ever had to back up in traffic. Honestly, it is one of the big reasons why I originally wanted a cruiser, but riding this way for so long has made it weird for me to put both feet down even when I do get to ride a cruiser. Creeping it forward is amazingly effortless and precise on electric though.
I know it sounds like I'm just throwing compromises at you, but the fact stands that I'm a person your height who rides this bike originally with similar concerns, and all these issues may turn out to be non-issues for you just as it did for me.
No, I appreciate you telling me about your experience with the bike. I know that I can ride it with its current height but would feel a lot better if it was lowered. I say this since I rode an Aprilia Mana before and could not flat foot it and made me nervous in certain situations. Also the bike was 100 pounds heavier than the Zero so of course that made a difference.
I was hoping for so more lowering options but doesn't seem that many people have adjusted their bikes. That is the one thing that I really hate about most of the sport style motorcycles is the seat height. That is why I currently ride an '83 Suzukimatic because it has no clutch which I love and I can flat foot it. I wish that they would take into consideration some of the vertically challenged people and make more bikes adjustable. I am talking a good bit like it can be lowered or even made higher for the tall people by quite a few inches. Wishful thinking I guess. When I demoed the SR I was told that there are some options but they can be pretty pricey. I think I would need to have a custom shock made or something like that, or at least that is what I think the dealer stated.
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Glad to hear someone that has lowered their bike and 1 1/2" is a good amount. May I ask what the problem was in finding a shorter shock, are they not made for Zero bikes at all?
I couldn't find one but I didn't look extensively. I got the spacer put in for $100 but I'm sure that price will vary a lot.
I also have the low Corbin seat.
Trikester
BTW - I'm tall but riding mostly dirt I wanted to be able to be flat footed in rough situations. I don't ride hard and do jumps so the reduction in travel is not a problem.
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I am about 5'9" and I cannot flat foot my bike. My wife does say I have a long torso so maybe my legs are shorter than a normal 5'9" guy but I can't imagine you will be able to lower the bike enough to flat foot it. I have had a few issues backing up but if I plan my parking a little better I don't think I'll have any issues. Good luck.
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I am about 5'9" and I cannot flat foot my bike. My wife does say I have a long torso so maybe my legs are shorter than a normal 5'9" guy but I can't imagine you will be able to lower the bike enough to flat foot it. I have had a few issues backing up but if I plan my parking a little better I don't think I'll have any issues. Good luck.
What is you inseam? Although I am only 5'3 I have almost a 30 inch inseam. Probably around 29 1/2 or so maybe a little more. Even if I can't get it low enough to flat foot I would like it as close as possible. Thanks for your response.
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I would say I am probably about a 31 inseam although I buy 30's. So if you are a 30 you will probably be about similar to me.
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I would say I am probably about a 31 inseam although I buy 30's. So if you are a 30 you will probably be about similar to me.
How many inches lower would you need the bike to be to be able to flat foot it? Just trying to get an idea of how many inches I am looking at. But like I said if I can't flat foot it ever that is not a deal breaker, I just want to feel as safe as possible on it and as close to flat footing it as I can get.
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I am pretty sure 2 inches lower would do it but maybe I don't even need quite that. I think if you could drop it 2 inches you would be there or really close.
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I am pretty sure 2 inches lower would do it but maybe I don't even need quite that. I think if you could drop it 2 inches you would be there or really close.
Great thanks for your response. I can't wait to get my SR!
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I lowered my 2013 FX. The front fork can be slid up in the clamp by one inch. For the rear I had a local shock repair / re-build for racing shop put a 3/4" spacer inside the shock, to stop its extension length by 3/4". Since it is about 2:1 lever ratio from the shock mount to the rear axle this would lower the rear of the bike by about 1 1/2".
I initially tried to find a shorter shock that would fit but I gave up on that and went with the spacer. Since that requires opening the shock and then re-charging it I had to have a shop do the work. The guy made a nylon spacer to fit the shaft and internal space.
Trikestyer
I recently acquired a "brand new" 2013 FX, and would like to lower it similarly. With the 3/4" spacer in the shock, does the spring require any modification, or does the preload adjustment go that far down? [looking up shock rebuild shops as we type;]
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WOW trying to figure out how low the SR can get is more difficult than I thought. I can't seem to find a definitive answer. My dealership didn't even know that the bike could be lowered. When asked the factory, I was told the current suspension would lower the bike 3/4" but that is more for the weight settings than actually lowering the bike. Was told that I would need to buy and put on new shocks but when asked how low that would bring the bike down I get no answers. I was hoping for a little more info on this, if anyone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.
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Knowledge like this doesn't grow on trees. Why do you think anyone would know this? Someone has to be the first to try.
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A 13 fx can be choked up quite a bit in the front
To lower the rear for the fx you would be forced to loosen it to relax the spring out or try and buy a xu rear shock, that will drop the rear about 1-1.5"
I would think the 15s can be choked up in the front but the rear I don't know if you can without getting a different spring
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Knowledge like this doesn't grow on trees. Why do you think anyone would know this? Someone has to be the first to try.
I was told quite a few bikes have been lowered, and was only trying to see if anyone on here was one of them. Apparently only one place does it but can be lowered 1.5-2 inches. I had to contact the one place that does it and find out from them. I was only looking for the few that have had it done.
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I recently acquired a "brand new" 2013 FX, and would like to lower it similarly. With the 3/4" spacer in the shock, does the spring require any modification, or does the preload adjustment go that far down? [looking up shock rebuild shops as we type;]
I did think the spring was too stiff after the spacer was put in. I backed it off as far as I could and still wanted more. So I split the top locking ring with a chisel, to remove it, and gained about another 1/8" travel of the adjustment ring to its stop. I'm OK with the spring now but I'm around 230 lbs. If I was lighter I might want even less spring stiffness.
Trikester
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Sounds like I'll need a custom spring... 170lbs, wear 30" inseam jeans! That 35" seat height is challenging! May still end up at Corbin...
Thanks, Trikester!
Found a candidate shop nearby that advertises "lowering" and has many good reviews... Evolution-Motorcycles.com
I'll give them a call when the bike is done being repaired from its shipping damage en route from Chicago... :(
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I am also 5'9" with 30" inseam and I feel I can almost put my feet flat, maybe need another inch. But in any case, I have a sloped driveway and don't have any issues. For example, at stop lights for a few minutes, I can have one foot down (flat?) and the other on the peg and it doesn't feel awkward or tiring at all.
But I will say, lowering the front seems sketchy because it's going to quicken the (already too quick IMHO) front geometry, whereas lowering the rear will hopefully improve it. When I walk up to the bike my impression is the rear is jacked up and could be lowered 1-2" without clearance issues. I am thinking of experimenting with a shorter rear shock but the clearance around the top shock mount is low, the fastace shock is pretty small. But usually the mounting bolt is generic and spacers can be used...
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But I will say, lowering the front seems sketchy because it's going to quicken the (already too quick IMHO) front geometry, whereas lowering the rear will hopefully improve it. When I walk up to the bike my impression is the rear is jacked up and could be lowered 1-2" without clearance issues. I am thinking of experimenting with a shorter rear shock but the clearance around the top shock mount is low, the fastace shock is pretty small. But usually the mounting bolt is generic and spacers can be used...
That's another big reason that I lowered the rear after lowering the front. I wanted to restore or even increase the front wheel trail because I ride a lot of soft sand. The more trail the better, because as the front wheel sinks in the sand it is reducing the effective trail and increasing the forces trying to turn the wheel to the side. Since I'm not riding technical singletrack the slower steering, with more trail, doesn't matter to me.
Trikester
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I lowered my Zero SR about 20mm by putting a spacer in the rear shock and by replacing the top triple clamp with a flat custom triple clamp. The stock top triple clamp has the steering nut 20mm above the top of each fork. This did not change the geometry of the bike but it did lessen the amount of travel in the rear shock (not a problem as the bike is setup for the track). If anyone is interested I can send a photo of the top triple clamp. I use racing clip-ons for the track but also have a set of Apex clip-ons with risers giving a high handlebar position similar to the stock bike.
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I would love to see a picture been thing about doing clip-ons on one of my bikes
I take it you machines a entire new triple clamp
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Yes, my friend has a CNC lathe and machined a top triple clamp to fit perfectly. I could ask him to do another one for anyone who is interested in going to a clip-on setup and wants to lower the bike by 20mm. You lose the ignition barrel and we made a small bracket to mount the display and you need a bracket to attach the top of the headlight. You also lose some weight as the stock top triple clamp is heavy :)
Here are some photos of the standard top triple clamp versus the custom one. Race clip-ons are Vortex - they need to be 49mm in Vortex.
Apex riser clip-ons at http://www.apexmfg.com/all-products/product/view/11/172 (http://www.apexmfg.com/all-products/product/view/11/172). I have spare pair of these if anyone is interested (these are 50mm).
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What year is your bike?
I have a Cnc but if you have the program if just buy yours again....
What is the top shock diameter? On your bike? It may fit my custom but not my original 2013 fx
Most importantly what is the shaft diameter of the giant bolt pressed into the bottom clamp, what is you od of that rod the nut attaches to
I'm in Mexico right now so I'll get you my dimensions in a little, I took a 2014 sr front and machined a bolt to adapt it with the 2013 bearing size so I could fit the s suspension on the fx platform.... Monster supermotard, it's not a Showa but because the forks are made for a 500 lbs bike it actually works very well for aggressive street riding on the lighter fx platform
Thanks for the info
I might want those clipons!!! Soon as you let me know about the top clamp.
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My Zero SR is a 2014 model.
Outer diameter near the top of each shock is 49mm.
Outer diameter of the threaded shaft is 26.5mm.
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I lowered my Zero SR about 20mm by putting a spacer in the rear shock
So this was a modification to the FastAce rear shock? And the spacer is actually inside the shock? Did you do this yourself or have a shop do it? What did that cost?
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I had Shock Treatment (outer Sydney, Australia) add the spacer to the rear shock.
Cost was AUD275 for parts and labour.
They also suggested adding a stiffer rear spring but it was going to require a custom spring to be made as the 2014 isn't a common shock size.
I noted that Electric Cowboy found a stiffer spring for his 2015 Showa rear shock so I'm glad to see it's easier to find off the shelf parts for the 2015 bikes.
I love my 2014 bike and the 12 months I've enjoyed riding it but the 2015 Showa suspension is a huge improvement in so many ways!
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I'm planning on lowering my 'MX' rear end this winter. I'll be modifying the swingarm instead of the shock. This will involve redrilling the bottom shock mounts 8mm lower & cutting away some of the cross tube for eye clearance, welding on thick aluminum washers each side of the mounts & filling in the old hole areas with weld bead, then drilling/grinding everything flat and straight. My wheel/shock ratio is 3:1, so this should give me 24mm of lowering without losing any travel (tire clearance is @ 12" right now, travel about 9"). I'm looking for a slightly lower CG, less anti-squat force, and more fork rake for less front-end nervousness (most of which is probably caused by the fork itself).
Ray
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Why don't you try bolting a xu shock on the rear first?
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Why don't you try bolting a xu shock on the rear first?
Two reasons:
1) The Fox shock I paid $700 for is working just about perfect, and
2) I don't have an XU shock, and surely never will. :)
Ray
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I was told that one place has successfully lowered a few Zero bikes, Hollywood Electrics of course. I was also told that my dealership might not be able to lower it since it requires a bit of knowledge that if they haven't lowered one before might be a little difficult for them to do. I also would hate for my bike to be a test case. Basically what I would like to know is if anyone has ordered their bike and had it shipped to them from out of state? I live in PA and would have to have the bike shipped directly to my house from California, after buying it from Hollywood Electrics. I just would hate to do that when I have two dealerships that are close to me that sell the Zero. More for the reason when I need any service done to it, (hopefully not much) I would feel weird bringing a bike in that I didn't buy from them. Is it weird for me to think like that? Should I just buy from the one place that has lowered the Zero and not worry about taking it to my dealership when service is needed? I appreciate all feedback!
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I was told that one place has successfully lowered a few Zero bikes, Hollywood Electrics of course. I was also told that my dealership might not be able to lower it since it requires a bit of knowledge that if they haven't lowered one before might be a little difficult for them to do. I also would hate for my bike to be a test case. Basically what I would like to know is if anyone has ordered their bike and had it shipped to them from out of state? I live in PA and would have to have the bike shipped directly to my house from California, after buying it from Hollywood Electrics. I just would hate to do that when I have two dealerships that are close to me that sell the Zero. More for the reason when I need any service done to it, (hopefully not much) I would feel weird bringing a bike in that I didn't buy from them. Is it weird for me to think like that? Should I just buy from the one place that has lowered the Zero and not worry about taking it to my dealership when service is needed? I appreciate all feedback!
Are you saying you'd order the bike from Hollywood Electric just to get it custom lowered? Just my opinion, but it seems like overkill. This is not rocket science. I just reduced the preload on my rear shock to zero (using a screwdriver and mallet) and it significantly lowered the seat height (~2" maybe?). My 5'0" girlfriend sat on my 2014 Zero S yesterday after I lowered it and although she was on the balls of her feet, she was not straining in any way and it certainly seemed that should could ride it as-is with no problems. I also have a 140/60-17 tire on it now, and that alone lowers the bike about 0.8" versus a 150/70 tire. But for example in your case, if you're 5'3", these two mods alone, or with lowering the front slightly, may be all you'll need to be flat-footed.
As mentioned above, a motorcycle suspension shop can lower the rear shock by trimming the internal spacer, and these shops will do it via mail order (you can have your local dealer remove the shock and send it out to be modified). The issue is that the 2013, 2014, and 2015 rear shocks are different, and so unless someone has experience with that particular model, it is hard to say for sure what is possible. But for suspension shops, these kind of mods are standard, it's nothing that hollywood electric has some particular expertise in. Shock internals will be the same regardless of bike brand.
Lowering the front by lowering the triple-trees is dead simple, any shop anywhere could do it. You should just learn to do it yourself, two allen wrenches is all you need. Do it gradually, 1cm at a time, and test ride it to be sure it doesn't introduce any stability issues.
Things like moving the suspension mount point is certainly work you'd want done by a motorcycle suspension specialist, but it could be that a local motorcycle shop that does customizations has 10x more experience than hollywood electric at dealing with this issue. Are there any PA-specific motorcycle forums that might have more info on local shops that can be trusted to do suspension work?
Hope that help, Alan
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Are you saying you'd order the bike from Hollywood Electric just to get it custom lowered? Just my opinion, but it seems like overkill. This is not rocket science. I just reduced the preload on my rear shock to zero (using a screwdriver and mallet) and it significantly lowered the seat height (~2" maybe?). My 5'0" girlfriend sat on my 2014 Zero S yesterday after I lowered it and although she was on the balls of her feet, she was not straining in any way and it certainly seemed that should could ride it as-is with no problems. I also have a 140/60-17 tire on it now, and that alone lowers the bike about 0.8" versus a 150/70 tire. But for example in your case, if you're 5'3", these two mods alone, or with lowering the front slightly, may be all you'll need to be flat-footed.
As mentioned above, a motorcycle suspension shop can lower the rear shock by trimming the internal spacer, and these shops will do it via mail order (you can have your local dealer remove the shock and send it out to be modified). The issue is that the 2013, 2014, and 2015 rear shocks are different, and so unless someone has experience with that particular model, it is hard to say for sure what is possible. But for suspension shops, these kind of mods are standard, it's nothing that hollywood electric has some particular expertise in. Shock internals will be the same regardless of bike brand.
Lowering the front by lowering the triple-trees is dead simple, any shop anywhere could do it. You should just learn to do it yourself, two allen wrenches is all you need. Do it gradually, 1cm at a time, and test ride it to be sure it doesn't introduce any stability issues.
Things like moving the suspension mount point is certainly work you'd want done by a motorcycle suspension specialist, but it could be that a local motorcycle shop that does customizations has 10x more experience than hollywood electric at dealing with this issue. Are there any PA-specific motorcycle forums that might have more info on local shops that can be trusted to do suspension work?
Hope that help, Alan
I appreciate your input. I thought that it was unnecessary to get the bike from Hollywood Electric but the person I talked to at the factory made it seem like they were the go to guys to have it lowered. When I start to shop around for my 2016 I will make sure that the place I chose feels comfortable doing it and knows what they are doing. I wanted to be able to shop around for the best price anyway and having the 2 dealerships near me is a bonus. If I have to go to an independent shop to have it lowered, I think that would make more sense than having it shipped to me. I want to have a relationship with my dealer and I think buying from them will make my relationship better than if I buy from out of state. Thanks for your reply!
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I posted earlier in this thread that I lowered my 2013 FX by having a shock rebuilding shop put a 3/4" nylon spacer inside the shock. It cost me $100 to have that done. With the approx 2x multiplication of distance this lowered the rear axle by about 1 1/2". I lowered the front by 1" sliding the shock tubes up in the clamp.
Trikester
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I posted earlier in this thread that I lowered my 2013 FX by having a shock rebuilding shop put a 3/4" nylon spacer inside the shock. It cost me $100 to have that done. With the approx 2x multiplication of distance this lowered the rear axle by about 1 1/2". I lowered the front by 1" sliding the shock tubes up in the clamp.
Trikester
Thanks Trikester,
I will definitely have to look into all of the options that are available to me. I think that I might need a whole different shock since I would probably need it to be a little lower than the 1 1/2" that you achieved. The cost of $100, does that include the price of the spacer? I know a new shock and having it installed will run me a pretty penny, but will do it if it gets me where I need the bike to be. Although if it only adds about another 1/2" off and the price is way more, I will opt for the spacer!
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I can'r remember if the spacer was included, he may have charged me separately for that, since he had to make it. He also stressed the importance of not using a metal spacer. He used nylon and my being familiar with the durability of that material, I agreed.
This shop does work for a friend of mine so I think he gave me a deal. Obviously, different shops would have their own pricing. My price was based on my handing him the shock.
Trikester
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I can'r remember if the spacer was included, he may have charged me separately for that, since he had to make it. He also stressed the importance of not using a metal spacer. He used nylon and my being familiar with the durability of that material, I agreed.
Trikester
What is the importance of not using a metal spacer? I would like to know in case they say that they would use metal. I can then know why that is not a good idea.
Thanks!
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Also, just a thought: it seems reducing the preload on the rear shock to minimum should not be an extra charge when you buy a new bike, it should be included as normal setup for that rider. It will depend on where the factory has set the preload, but it could lower the bike by 1" or more.
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What is the importance of not using a metal spacer? I would like to know in case they say that they would use metal. I can then know why that is not a good idea.
Metal will get hammered each time the shock tops out and it will deform. The nylon is resilient and can take the pounding.
Trikester
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My 2013 FX is presently at Evolution Motorcycles ( http://evolution-motorcycles.com/ (http://evolution-motorcycles.com/) ) being lowered.
They will lower the triple-trees as much as can be reasonably done [the fork tube has a taper, being the limiting factor], and then measure how much shock travel occurs when raising the rear axle that distance, and insert a spacer that thick into the shock. They also made note of my weight in order to design a custom spring...
Hope to get it back by next week!
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My 2013 FX is presently at Evolution Motorcycles ( http://evolution-motorcycles.com/ (http://evolution-motorcycles.com/) ) being lowered.
They will lower the triple-trees as much as can be reasonably done [the fork tube has a taper, being the limiting factor], and then measure how much shock travel occurs when raising the rear axle that distance, and insert a spacer that thick into the shock. They also made note of my weight in order to design a custom spring...
Hope to get it back by next week!
I would love to know how many inches it gets lowered when all said and done. If you could update once you get it back that would be great!
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Be careful about lowering it too much without taking the side stand into account.
As it gets lower, it stands up straighter. You don't want it to blow over in a light breeze.
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On my 2014 SR I found that the bike leant over too much with stock suspension settings and with my bike now lower the stand holds the bike at a better lean angle.
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Be careful about lowering it too much without taking the side stand into account.
As it gets lower, it stands up straighter. You don't want it to blow over in a light breeze.
I forgot to mention that i had to buy a shorter side stand from Hollywood Electrics after I lowered my FX. I also machined a bigger "foot" for the side stand because I have to park in sand a lot. The foot is held in place with one flat-head bolt and JB Weld. I posted a photo on this forum (somewhere).
Trikester
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I posted a photo on this forum (somewhere).
Trikester
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2520.0;attach=1014;image (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2520.0;attach=1014;image)
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Be careful about lowering it too much without taking the side stand into account.
As it gets lower, it stands up straighter. You don't want it to blow over in a light breeze.
Oh yeah, they also will cut the foot off of the kickstand and weld it back on an inch or so higher... good thinking!
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Or you could just get a ds kickstand....
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Or do as I said and go to Hollywood Electrics for a shorter stand. :)
Trikester
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My 2013 FX is presently at Evolution Motorcycles ( http://evolution-motorcycles.com/ (http://evolution-motorcycles.com/) ) being lowered.
They will lower the triple-trees as much as can be reasonably done [the fork tube has a taper, being the limiting factor], and then measure how much shock travel occurs when raising the rear axle that distance, and insert a spacer that thick into the shock. They also made note of my weight in order to design a custom spring...
Hope to get it back by next week!
Just picked it up... Feels great so far, based on a loop around the parking lot... Metcalf opens at 0800 tomorrow!
Cost: Used 9Kg/mm spring (Triumph Street Triple) $60; Shorten shock & lower motorcycle $250; mount & balance two tires $90
Balls of both feet on the ground-- Priceless! =D
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Glad to hear about a successful lowering of a Zero! I guess that I will have to take mine to a suspension shop as well once I get one. I was hoping to be able to pick it up from the dealership all ready to go, but that doesn't seem likely. I will just have to shop around earlier to have it all ready for the 2016 riding season here in PA.
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I lowered my wife's 9.4 S quite a few inches. She's 5' 4", and her feet are flat on the ground now. Nice! With the new spring, the bike can actually hold both of us too. The original shock bottomed-out when we both sat on the bike. I weigh 200 pounds and she weighs 100 pounds. The dealership was not very helpful with lowering, and a lot of custom suspension shops made the project too difficult...so I attacked it myself. The result is worth the effort!
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@zerolow, can you give us some more details? What year is this bike? So you swapped the rear spring--with what? What is the seat height now?
Thanks, Alan
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Jim at Catalyst Reaction suggested I look into modifying the seat before I mess more with the suspension.
There is a full 4 inches of seat height used up by the seat the the brace that supports the seat (there are a couple inches of air space under the seat pan):
Before: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1cea5i09bex4w5l/Zero_seat_normal.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/1cea5i09bex4w5l/Zero_seat_normal.jpg?dl=0)
After: https://www.dropbox.com/s/szikwjbhd3sqbhl/Zero_seat_removed.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/szikwjbhd3sqbhl/Zero_seat_removed.jpg?dl=0)
This is just a duct tape prototype (with hard plastic underneath), I think I can just hammer/bend sheet metal and attach it to the side of the frame. With a 3/4" gel pad and a professionally done seat cover I bet I can get the seat almost 3" lower... by my measurements (using a yardstick and carpenters level at the lowest spot) the stock bike is 31" and in the photos the "seat" height is 26.5".