ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: acacia1731 on January 03, 2016, 04:00:54 AM
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Has anyone experimented with ways to make the rear fender and lights more friendly for off-roading?
The rear turn signals stick out pretty far and won't likely last long in the woods. But, it would be nice to have them available for the occasional road ride.
It doesn't appear that the designs are very friendly for quickly removing or re-installing them. For example:
- They used 7mm bolts with separate nuts to hold the fender on (left in pic below), and it seems you have to remove the seat to reach the nuts. Wish they had used standard 8mm bolts that drive into fixed nuts on the frame...(right in pic below)
- How to hide/protect the wire and harness once the rear light assembly is removed?
- Are there any good replacement lights that would have a slimmer profile
The front signals seem to be tucked away enough that they can be left on.
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Total noob to this forum, but I like where your post is headed. Not knowing the specific needs of the FX, I would presume a 12v flush mount LED turn signal just like the ones on my dirty bike would work:
http://www.2wheelpros.com/dmp-fuse-flush-mount-led-turn-signal-2502518.html (http://www.2wheelpros.com/dmp-fuse-flush-mount-led-turn-signal-2502518.html)
or:
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/3826/-/937976/Sicass-Racing-Flush-Mount-LED-Turn-Signals (https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/3826/-/937976/Sicass-Racing-Flush-Mount-LED-Turn-Signals)
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I just bash mine
They hold up even when yu send the bike flying up hillclimbs and flipping over backwards.... Im in bushes tho very few hard rocks on the ground....
They use those lights becuaee to be a manufacturer they are forced to be 12" apart or something same reason the tail goes over the back wheel so far.... they had to comply with the rules
Flushmount lights would help if you wanted a slicker setup though i would get the small all in one brake and blinkers that mounts ontop of the tip of the fender
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I like the idea of the quick-release type, like these http://clicknride.com.au/ (http://clicknride.com.au/) , but they're a bit pricey. I first saw them on stock Honda enduro bikes. Apparently someone thought of doing this back in the 90's: http://www.southbayriders.com/forums/attachments/263521/ (http://www.southbayriders.com/forums/attachments/263521/)
I've still got my stock (2015)FX lights fitted, but last night I wired in a couple of in-line kill-switches for the tail and brake light, for stealthy off-roading, and to save power :). "White with red trace" is the brake light power wire, and "Brown" is tail. Just remove the seat to gain access to the wiring harness. I tapped in just a bit forward of where the two battery packs meet, where the rear brake switch wire meets the front one(both white with red trace), but if you pull on one of them, and observe the single wire further back, like just above the rear shock, you can work out which one goes to the light. I've mounted the rocker switches into the fairing, just behind the headstem.
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I like the idea of the quick-release type, like these http://clicknride.com.au/ (http://clicknride.com.au/) , but they're a bit pricey. I first saw them on stock Honda enduro bikes.
I've still got my stock (2015)FX lights fitted, but last night I wired in a couple of in-line kill-switches for the tail and brake light, for stealthy off-roading, and to save power :). "White with red trace" is the brake light power wire, and "Brown" is tail. Just remove the seat to gain access to the wiring harness. I tapped in just next to the rear battery, where the rear brake switch wire meets the front one(both white with red trace), but if you pull on one of them, and observe the single wire further back, you can work out which one goes to the light. I've mounted the rocker switches into the fairing, just behind the headstem.
Look great for thieves as well!
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LOL. But, cops have a brake light kill switch too, even the honest ones! :)
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In the months before I got my dirt-only '14 'MX', I was going to to make my original FX configurable for either street or dirt. Re the rear lights, the plan was to
1) get a new rear upper fender section (@ $20) to use by itself off-road, leaving the Zero fenders/lights assembly intact except for turn signals
2) JB Weld four M5 serrated-edge flange nuts (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Oxide-Hex-Head-Serrated-Flange-Nuts-Metric-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-/221902338889?var=&hash=item33aa68fb49:m:m93l8QU77735bNteqZfxZng) to the frame, for easy installation / removal of the fender bolts
3) add turn signals to this light (http://www.jute.com.tw/en/products_show.php?product_sn=770) by rewiring the outer LED pairs, and
4) install a single waterproof Molex type M-F connector pair to replace the Zero lighting connectors.
Only #1 above ever happened and obviously significant work is involved for the rest, but it should allow going from no-lights to all-lights in a minute or two with a slim OEM-looking profile & improved LED lighting. IMO this is definitely worth doing, especially for the dirt; the Zero lighting / license plate mt. sub-fender is no featherweight and way up high, and I noticed a bit less rear-end kick and better handling in switchback-type turns when it was gone.
Ray
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Good idea to pick up a second fender Ray. The stock setup is heavy and definitely not designed for quick changes.
I think I've found what I want to do... Here's an LED tail light with flush mount flashers, all mounted in a clip-on configuration. Should look great on an FX, assuming I can solve for wiring, connectors, and relay. It will be much more compact than the stock setup at minimum. As noted above, flush mount signals may not be legal in all states, but I think I'm OK in Ohio.
Credit to: http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?63022-Tail-light-upgrades&p=677571#post677571
(http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?63022-Tail-light-upgrades&p=677571#post677571)http://www.amazon.com/DRC-Motoled-Blinker-Model-D45-58-618/dp/B001EFDQME
(http://www.amazon.com/DRC-Motoled-Blinker-Model-D45-58-618/dp/B001EFDQME)http://www.amazon.com/DRC-Motoled-Edge-2-Universal-Plastice/dp/B001EF9W7C/ (http://www.amazon.com/DRC-Motoled-Edge-2-Universal-Plastice/dp/B001EF9W7C/)
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The FX top fender is a nice unit IMO - it's much lighter than the lower fender as you mentioned, fairly stiff, and the molded-in threaded stanchions could be used for quick-release cable clamps if needed. The cable could run into the large hole at the upper front of the fender, with the connector(s) just beyond (in the under-seat area) for easy access.
Those light links are cool - compact, surely quite bright, and looking right at home on an FX. Hopefully they're already configured to drop into an existing incandescent setup, but if not I think there's plenty of stuff available to make that happen.
Ray
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Almost done with my FX rear lighting conversion - here's an update...
I ordered the components linked above and so far I'm very happy with the fit. After rigging an extension onto the new light's housing, I was able to mount the new assembly using the stock fender's screw holes, so no mods were required to the fender and nothing is visible from the top.
The result is a narrow, all-LED setup that won't snag on trees or break off the first time the bike gets dropped. I'm pretty sure the bike is 2-3 lbs lighter now too.
If I can find connectors that match stock, I will be able to finish the wiring without any mods to the original cable. A quick test showed that the LED's are functional with the stock electrical setup, but the flashers blink about 3X faster than normal.
Here are a few pics:
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For the quick release fender...
I think these will work perfect for the top two bolts.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/45426/N0235.oap?ck=Search_N0235_DAG_-1_2230&mn=Dorman+AutoGrade&mc=DAG&pt=N0235&ppt=C1965 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/45426/N0235.oap?ck=Search_N0235_DAG_-1_2230&mn=Dorman+AutoGrade&mc=DAG&pt=N0235&ppt=C1965)
The bottom bolts may be a little trickier since the frame cross member is not flat. This solution would be more reliable than JB-weld, but it requires new holes be drilled in the frame to secure the nuts.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ARP0/2009113.oap?ck=Search_floating+nut_-1_2230&keyword=floating+nut
(http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ARP0/2009113.oap?ck=Search_floating+nut_-1_2230&keyword=floating+nut)
Since the lighting assembly above is removable with just the four screws into the fender, changing out these fender bolts is less of a necessity now, but I'm still considering it on principle.
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This looks good.... more like what I intend to do... just with different turn signals.
(http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5379.0;attach=5221;image)
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That setup looks great!
Re JB Weld - it's been 100% reliable for me so far, at temps from -5F to over 400F (I sand & clean everything thoroughly first, and use plenty of it). It also allows use of any nut you want - for my bike I'd use M5x0.8 stainless Nylok - and holds it at the perfect orientation for easy bolt insertion if installed correctly. I haven't had much luck with speed nuts; seems like they either spin, shift, or loosen & fall off.
Ray
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FYI - here is some info about the rear lighting connectors for a Zero FX (2015). Without these connectors, you'd have to alter the stock wiring.
Tail/brake lights: Nylon Latching Connector Pair 3-pin 2.8mm 7/64" Male/Female 22-18AWG #E36B
Turn signals: MOLEX 76650-0062 .062" 1 CIRCUIT POWER PLUG RECEPTACLE SOCKET
http://www.molexkits.com/76650-0062 (http://www.molexkits.com/76650-0062)
(This was originally a post asking for help identifying these connectors... Zero says "ask your dealer". Dealer says "Zero only sells the whole tail light assembly". I'm sure someone at Zero could have easily provide the specs for these, but getting those details directly seems improbable. FYI, I also ordered some similar looking turn signal adapters that fit Triumph bikes, but they turned out to be a different size (bigger).)
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Thanks for that info, and the Molex-kit site; it's so much simpler to buy them in kits rather than piecemeal. I'm starting to wonder if 2013+ Zeros use mostly Molex connectors - if so, it might make them easier to find in the future.
Ray
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My tail light replacement is now fully installed and working (as described in posts above).
If anyone is reading this and considering a similar setup, there is one additional thing I might consider if I were to do it again...
12 O'clock Labs makes an upgrade board that adds brake light flashing (similar to http://gearbrake.com/ (http://gearbrake.com/)), and integrates turn signaling into the tail light.
http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=49 (http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=49)
This board easily drops into the Edge 2 tail light assembly linked above, and I think it would significantly add to the visibility/safety from the rear. The benefits of a flashing brake light have been covered in other threads, but GearBrake doesn't make anything for the FX. Ohio law still requires separate (amber) turn signals, but the integrated turn signaling would be a great supplement to the small flashers I used, which are bright but can get lost next to the bright red brake light.
Here's a video example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=looiUvXdWJI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=looiUvXdWJI)
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The benefits of a flashing brake light have been covered in other threads, but GearBrake doesn't make anything for the FX.
That's actually not exactly true. I've spoken with their customer support. Their Zero module will work perfectly with an FX, but they recommend against it simply because of its offroad nature. Jumps and hard bumps can trigger a false positive, and cause a miscommunication with anyone riding behind you. But you can still buy one and hook it up.
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The benefits of a flashing brake light have been covered in other threads, but GearBrake doesn't make anything for the FX.
That's actually not exactly true. I've spoken with their customer support. Their Zero module will work perfectly with an FX, but they recommend against it simply because of its offroad nature. Jumps and hard bumps can trigger a false positive, and cause a miscommunication with anyone riding behind you. But you can still buy one and hook it up.
Thanks for clarifying - I didn't remember all the details of that thread. I'd probably still choose the upgrade LED board due to the turn signaling capabilities, but it sounds like GearBrake would also be a great option for someone who was sticking with the stock lights.
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I was able to mount the new assembly using the stock fender's screw holes, so no mods were required to the fender and nothing is visible from the top.
Update - still happy with the custom light assembly pictured above, but I'm having trouble with the screws. Two of the four screws going into the fender were missing last night, after about 200 miles of riding, even though they were tightened as much as possible without stripping the plastic.
Anyone have experience securing screws into plastic? Some type of Locktite? Worst case I may have to drill all the way through and use locking nuts, with the screw heads showing on top of the fender.
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Anyone have experience securing screws into plastic?
Yes - and hanging loads are very different than top loads supported underneath by the fender. I'd use Heli-Coils or stainless studs JB-Welded into the fender thread towers (the JB Weld will also help prevent the towers from splitting down the road).
I wouldn't use Loc-Tite myself, although certainly try it if you want. The most likely reason the screws loosened up & fell out is because the plastic threads deformed from the bouncing taillight load; Loc-Tite probably won't address this problem, at least not permanently.
Ray