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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: remmie on November 16, 2016, 02:10:57 AM
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EDIT :
HERE THE LINK FOR PROGRAMMING THE DEFAULT VOLTAGE
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6405.msg58171#msg58171 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6405.msg58171#msg58171)
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After completing my first and second attempt at a fast charger for my 2014 Zero SR :
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3949.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3949.0)
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5763.msg49366#msg49366 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5763.msg49366#msg49366)
I kept searching and trying to get quotes in for a couple of Eltek Flatpack S units instead of the Flatpack 2 HE units.
The Flatpack S is an icredibly small rectifier with 1800 W of output power which is only 72x42x217mm (2.83x1.63x8.54) "tall" and weighs only 850 grammes (1.9 lbs)
I already had one of those in the 'supercharger' version 1.
My Homemade 'supercharger' version 2 now consists of 2 sets of 2 Eltek Flatpack S rectifiers with their output wired in series.
These rectifiers are Constant voltage, constant current, constant power and feature an internal "reverse current diode"
max current of the flatpack S is 1800/48 = 37.5 Amps when below 48 Volts and 1800 Watts above 48 Volts (sadly no overcurrent possibility as with the mean well RSP2000)
All rectifiers have been reprogrammed to have a default output voltage of 57.0 Volts (factory default is 53.5 Volts) with each 2 in series a total output voltage of 114 Volts which is around 90% SOC for the Zero. (follow how the reprogramming was done in the following thread on endless-sphere : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=71139 (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=71139) )
This means that at the highest SOC (57 Volts) the output current equals 1800 W / 57 V = 31.5 A
The flatpack S rectifiers were not cheap (360 euro's including VAT each) but are so incredibly small, i just had to have them.
The charger setup consists of :
* type 2 mennekes plug for 32Amps (standard in europe for 3 phase 400 VAC, each phase-neutral 230 VAC) with a 680 Ohm resistor between PP and PE to ask for 20A charging power and a 880 Ohm resistor and diode between CP and PE to indicate "ready for charging". Reference : http://visforvoltage.org/forum/13357-mennekes-type-2-plug-officially-not-vectrix (http://visforvoltage.org/forum/13357-mennekes-type-2-plug-officially-not-vectrix)
* 5G1.5mm2 PUR cable to carry the 3 phase voltage to the rectifiers and onboard charger lead
* Lead for onboard charger (1300 Watt) on phase 1 (this also takes care of engaging the contactor)
* the first set of 2 Flatpack S rectifiers on phase 2 (2x1800 Watt)
* the second set of 2 Flatpack S rectifiers on phase 3 (2x1800 Watt)
* 10mm2 (8 AWG) cables to the anderson connector, these are highly flexible amplifier power leads commonly found in any Car-HIFI store
* Anderson SBS75X-BRN connector for the fast charging port on the Zero.
All the rectifiers (and onboard charger) are spread as evenly as possible on each of the three phases (L1 = 1300 Watt, L2 = 3600 Watt, L3 = 3600 Watt)
The real plus here is that they fit comfortably in the "Frunk" tank bag of a Zero without having to carry an extra tank bag.
However i also wanted to carry a motorcycle lock in there and that was not possible without a small and easy modification.
I just cut off the tank bag about an inch from the top and screwed the top ring into the cavity where the tank bag is inserted. It still works like it did before but I now have just a little more room to place the charger and the motorcycle lock. I also made a separation consisting of an aluminium plate to be able to keep the lock in the frunk and be able to put in the charger more easily.
It is by no means a waterproof setup because the rectifiers are air-cooled by fans but i don't ride in the rain anyway.
The charger can be placed on the passenger footrest to keep it of the ground.
This charger is a little bit less powerful than the version 1 because of the use of 1800W rectifiers instead of 2000 W, but much smaller and easier to take with me.
for comparison :
Version 1 :
1x1300 W (onboard) / 12 A
1x1800 W (FP S) / 37.5 A max
3x2000 W (FP 2 HE) / 41.6 A max
Total max current (at lower SOC) = 12 + 37.5 + 41.6 = 91 Amps
Total power (at higher SOC) = 1300+1800+3x2000 = 9.1 kW
Version 2 :
1x1300 W (onboard) / 12 A
4x1800 W (FP S) / 37.5 A max
Total max current (at lower SOC) = 12 + 37.5 + 37.5 = 87 Amps
Total max power (at higher SOC) = 1300 + 4x1800 = 8.5 kW
So not too much difference there.
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some more pictures.
Charging with 8.5 kW 8)
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and the charger with motorcycle lock in the "frunk"
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and 1 more of the small display i managed to sqeeze inside 1 of the Flatpack S (really very little room in there).
It displays
In and outlet temperature
in and outputvoltage
output current
calculated output power
Remark after comment of Kucho : the picture shows the display in the flatpack S when it was still part of the version 1 charger consisting of 1 Flatpack S and 3 Flatpack 2 HE.
In version 1 I could split the complete charger in 1x FPS+1xFP2HE and 2xFP2HE. The picture shows 1FPS and 1 FP2HE
It is now integrated into the 2S2P configuration of the 4 Flatpack S rectiefiers.
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Remmie this is amazing, can't believe how small it is. Looks like a perfect fast charging solution. How much amps to you get on phase 2&3? Slightly above 16 A I guess? Only thing missing is to make it weatherproof so you could mount it to the motorcycle. Did you buy the rectifiers brand new?
On a 22 kW charge point you could easily top up the setup with another pair on phase 1 with 12 kW in total then, which would be close to the max if you don't want to exceed 1C.
Great work!
Edit: I just noticed your Typ2 plug looks very small. Did you modify it on your own or did you buy a different one?
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Wow! ... Nice job!
Now we have a supercharger-maker in europe.
Here is the link to the datasheet:
http://www.eltek.com/wip4/download_doc_647.epl?id=7975 (http://www.eltek.com/wip4/download_doc_647.epl?id=7975)
How much time does it take from 0 to 90 % for your ZF 11.4?
Thanks,
Mario.
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I am confused by the last photo of the chargers at the rear fender.
I thought you said you are using 4 of them 2s2p, basically, and I see 4 of them in the other photos. What is that in the photo with the voltage readout by the fender?
Thanks!
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I am confused by the last photo of the chargers at the rear fender.
I thought you said you are using 4 of them 2s2p, basically, and I see 4 of them in the other photos. What is that in the photo with the voltage readout by the fender?
Thanks!
Each flat pack has 2 fans.
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I am confused by the last photo of the chargers at the rear fender.
I thought you said you are using 4 of them 2s2p, basically, and I see 4 of them in the other photos. What is that in the photo with the voltage readout by the fender?
Thanks!
That's a photo of when I made the display fit into the flatpack S when it was still part of the version 1 supercharger (with the one flatpack S and 3 flatpack 2 HE). I'll take another picture of the display in action on the 4 pcs Flatpack S charger (Version 2)
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Remmie this is amazing, can't believe how small it is. Looks like a perfect fast charging solution. How much amps to you get on phase 2&3? Slightly above 16 A I guess? Only thing missing is to make it weatherproof so you could mount it to the motorcycle. Did you buy the rectifiers brand new?
On a 22 kW charge point you could easily top up the setup with another pair on phase 1 with 12 kW in total then, which would be close to the max if you don't want to exceed 1C.
Great work!
Edit: I just noticed your Typ2 plug looks very small. Did you modify it on your own or did you buy a different one?
the rectifiers have an efficiency of around 95%. The ouput power is 1800 W so the input power should be 1800/0.95 = ~1900 Watt
2x1900 W / 220 Volt = ~17 Amps so indeed slightly higher than 16A. Most EV stations handle it quite well.
Making these waterproof would be highly difficult. I just use it when I'm making a bigger trip and that only happens when it not raining 8)
I purchased one the Flatpack S units on ebay 2 years ago. The other 3 I ordered brand new for 360 euro incl VAT each.
I could use a third pair to charge even faster but that would blow the aux charger fuse and the charger would not fit into the frunk any more.
We have made several long trips now with this charger and so far the power is more than sufficient.
You have a sharp eye :) Yes I modified the type 2 plug. I used a sewer pipe cap of 50 mm which fits exactly around the connector. I put a cable gland in there and a small switch and now it's much smaller than the normal type 2 plug. See the pictures. I just used the part which has a red circle around it.
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Congrats Remmie,
your charger is very compact, and i like very much that you can store in the front tank. i want to know if your charger work fine if you have a low SOC, or when the voltage is below 98 volts ? i use 2 meanwell 2000 and my charger dont start under 98 volts or below 28 % SOC on my S 11.4 2014. If your charger woks fine with low SOC, i think i will buy the eltek like yours.
Thanks !
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Congrats Remmie,
your charger is very compact, and i like very much that you can store in the front tank. i want to know if your charger work fine if you have a low SOC, or when the voltage is below 98 volts ? i use 2 meanwell 2000 and my charger dont start under 98 volts or below 28 % SOC on my S 11.4 2014. If your charger woks fine with low SOC, i think i will buy the eltek like yours.
Thanks !
Thanks :)
Attached are 2 screenshots.
The one at 7% is with the Version 1 'supercharger' with Elteks (3x FP 2 HE + 1xFP S) and the screenshot with 25% is with the 4 Eltek Flatpack S units. So it seems no problem at all.
The flatpacks are rated from 43 to 57 Volt. So i think as long as the voltage doesn't go below 43 it should be fine.
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Thanks Remmie :)
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Below the voltage that this 2s stack would support (86V, well into "reserve"), the battery is in a tricky state, anyway, so probably just mind using the onboard charger until voltage rises sufficiently.
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On my 2014 SR the lowest battery level I get when the battery is at 0% is 97v. I assume that is similar to other 2014 models and the Elteks would have no problem running at that level (effectively 48.5v each in series). It's seemed odd to me that the Farasis cells have a nominal rating of 3.65v (about 102v) - that would be 30% state of charge on my 2014 SR. See attached cell spec where the graph has the voltage starting about 3.4v (95V in our pack config) so I guess that's the planned minimum.
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Great, really great. What a power dense solution. Wow.
Some questions though.. Is the reprogramming of max voltage and max current done in an earlier state and are the units operating "passively", without any CAN bus communication while operating?
And can you post your solution how to wire the connectors on the back of the flatpacks?
I think, when I come to the point of creating such a charger, I will limit the current in the flatpacks on phase 2 so that I can run it on a single 16A group with the onboard without tripping the breaker. (Adapter from shuco to Mennekes, Phase 1 and 2 together, 1300W + 2150W, total 3450W)
And use it also on a 3 phase charging point with Mennkes type2 on 3x 16A without the adapter. This gives 3450W plus 3600W into a nice 7kW of charging juice.
A real pitty to not use the max of the charger, any thoughts on this other than reprogram the units "life"?
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Hey remmie,
my flatpacks are shipped (got three of them on ebay) and I’m preparing to build my own fast charger. So I have a few more questions:
1. Did you use diodes in between the rectifiers to prevent reverse currents?
2. You’re now sending CAN messages frequently to set voltage and current instead of making changes permanent. But you also wrote that you’re only able to connect one rectifier at a time to the CAN-Bus because otherwise you would send 48V to the CAN. Did you solve this problem somehow?
3. Do you adjust voltage during charging or is this happening automatically? Like when you start charging pack voltage is somewhere around 96V and then slowly rises. Do the flatpacks send 114V no matter at what SOC you are or are they dropping automatically to the voltage required?
4. I’m currently looking for an Arduino board. There are a few copy’s out there which seem to have same specs but are far cheaper. Do you recommend buying an original one or might the fake also work well?
5. Do you or anyone else know how the auxiliary contacts in the auxiliary charge port are work to close the contactor? Which voltage do they use? Just wondering in case I want to charge without the onboard charger one day.
6. Is your Type 2 plug actually the one which is sold on amazon?
Thank you very much,
Lenny
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Great, really great. What a power dense solution. Wow.
Some questions though.. Is the reprogramming of max voltage and max current done in an earlier state and are the units operating "passively", without any CAN bus communication while operating?
And can you post your solution how to wire the connectors on the back of the flatpacks?
I think, when I come to the point of creating such a charger, I will limit the current in the flatpacks on phase 2 so that I can run it on a single 16A group with the onboard without tripping the breaker. (Adapter from shuco to Mennekes, Phase 1 and 2 together, 1300W + 2150W, total 3450W)
And use it also on a 3 phase charging point with Mennkes type2 on 3x 16A without the adapter. This gives 3450W plus 3600W into a nice 7kW of charging juice.
A real pitty to not use the max of the charger, any thoughts on this other than reprogram the units "life"?
The reprogramming is indeed done in an earlier state. Basically they operate fully passively. I only use the CAN-BUS to read out the current and input voltage temperatures etc.
How did i do the wiring on the back of the flatpacks? I just stripped the wires about 1 cm, stuck the wire inbetween the contact which would normally " grip" the PCB board, and soldered them to the contacts. Be carefull that you ise a soldering iron with a high enough wattage and be carefull that the solder does not flow to the adjacent contacts, creating a short.
After soldering and testing i used hotglue to protect the contacts against accidental touching.
When using the charger i first place the charger on its spot on the passenger footpeg, then connect the 230V lead to the onboard charger, then connect the Brown anderson connector to the AUX charging port on the bike and then plug in the mennekes plug. Upon activation of the EV station the onboard charger starts up quick enough to engage the contactor before the flatpacks start to apply their charge.
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Hey remmie,
my flatpacks are shipped (got three of them on ebay) and I’m preparing to build my own fast charger. So I have a few more questions:
1. Did you use diodes in between the rectifiers to prevent reverse currents?
2. You’re now sending CAN messages frequently to set voltage and current instead of making changes permanent. But you also wrote that you’re only able to connect one rectifier at a time to the CAN-Bus because otherwise you would send 48V to the CAN. Did you solve this problem somehow?
3. Do you adjust voltage during charging or is this happening automatically? Like when you start charging pack voltage is somewhere around 96V and then slowly rises. Do the flatpacks send 114V no matter at what SOC you are or are they dropping automatically to the voltage required?
4. I’m currently looking for an Arduino board. There are a few copy’s out there which seem to have same specs but are far cheaper. Do you recommend buying an original one or might the fake also work well?
5. Do you or anyone else know how the auxiliary contacts in the auxiliary charge port are work to close the contactor? Which voltage do they use? Just wondering in case I want to charge without the onboard charger one day.
6. Is your Type 2 plug actually the one which is sold on amazon?
Thank you very much,
Lenny
1. No i did not use diodes INBETWEEN them. They have O ring diodes internally already.
I did place reverse current diode ACROSS each output (inside the flatpack) for extra protection. I used Schottky-diode IXYS DSA70C150HB TO 247 I(F) 2 x 35 A which i placed inside the housing.
2. It is not necessary to keep sending the commands for voltage and current frequently. They can be used 'passively' if you have set them to the desired end-voltage.
I just use the display for readout and it is only connected to 1 of the flatpacks.
3. see #2. They operate just fine when the pack is only at 96V, they give maximum current (or maximum power) up to 114 Volt and then taper the current down until the pack reaches this 114 Volt. It is exactly what they are designed for (keeping a battery set for a telecom station charged at the correct voltage)
4. Normally it would not matter if you use a clone or an original. But i highly recommend the Leonardo CAN-bus board as this has everything on a single and very small board, including the CAN-controller which otherwise would have to be purchased seperately. search "leonardo can-bus" on google. !! I do NOT have any affiliation with this shop whatsoever !! i just like the board they sell.
5. I think it is a 100 kilo ohm resistor to B+ but since i use the onboard for additional charging and engaging the contactor i have not investigated this. I think tehere is a thread about it on the forum.
6. no i got mine from : http://www.laadkabelwinkel.nl/componenten (http://www.laadkabelwinkel.nl/componenten)
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Hey remmie,
thanks a lot for all your replies so far. I’m getting the last components right now so I can work on the charger during Christmas holidays. There are a few questions remaining for me:
1. Which accessory parts do I need for the Anderson connectors? Only the silver plated primary power contacts?
2. Why do you use a max voltage of 114V instead of the possible 115,2V? It’s because you don’t want to charge with high currents on high SOC’s?
3. Don’t you have your button anymore to adjust the current? So you just set the voltage to 57V permanently on each flatpack and current is always at maximum/tapering down on high SOC? I guess I’ll want to adjust the current on my setup as it will be used for a FXS 6.5 and maybe on a single 230V socket sometimes.
4. Can’t I connect two parallel rectifiers to the CAN at the same time? Because they would share the same – potential for the CAN. Like that, I would be able to control the total current with the other two (each wired in series to one of the CAN-connected) following passively.
5. Which voltage does the Leonardo board need and where do you get in from? Did you take it from inside the rectifier or did you use a small dc-dc converter?
6. Do you think this display is suitable?
https://www.amazon.de/niceeshop-Arduino-Basierend-Beliebten-Controller/dp/B00MODAKM4/ref=pd_sim_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=17M9NH1Z9KPRFECA6YXT (https://www.amazon.de/niceeshop-Arduino-Basierend-Beliebten-Controller/dp/B00MODAKM4/ref=pd_sim_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=17M9NH1Z9KPRFECA6YXT)
7. Do you use a switch in line with the diode and 880hm connector to disconnect the Type2-plug from the charging station as shown in the specs?
8. Do you use one diode for each rectifier? Is my wiring proposal correct? Find a pic attached.
Anything else I need to know?
Thanks a lot for your help :-)
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Hey remmie,
thanks a lot for all your replies so far. I’m getting the last components right now so I can work on the charger during Christmas holidays. There are a few questions remaining for me:
1. Which accessory parts do I need for the Anderson connectors? Only the silver plated primary power contacts?
2. Why do you use a max voltage of 114V instead of the possible 115,2V? It’s because you don’t want to charge with high currents on high SOC’s?
3. Don’t you have your button anymore to adjust the current? So you just set the voltage to 57V permanently on each flatpack and current is always at maximum/tapering down on high SOC? I guess I’ll want to adjust the current on my setup as it will be used for a FXS 6.5 and maybe on a single 230V socket sometimes.
4. Can’t I connect two parallel rectifiers to the CAN at the same time? Because they would share the same – potential for the CAN. Like that, I would be able to control the total current with the other two (each wired in series to one of the CAN-connected) following passively.
5. Which voltage does the Leonardo board need and where do you get in from? Did you take it from inside the rectifier or did you use a small dc-dc converter?
6. Do you think this display is suitable?
https://www.amazon.de/niceeshop-Arduino-Basierend-Beliebten-Controller/dp/B00MODAKM4/ref=pd_sim_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=17M9NH1Z9KPRFECA6YXT (https://www.amazon.de/niceeshop-Arduino-Basierend-Beliebten-Controller/dp/B00MODAKM4/ref=pd_sim_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=17M9NH1Z9KPRFECA6YXT)
7. Do you use a switch in line with the diode and 880hm connector to disconnect the Type2-plug from the charging station as shown in the specs?
8. Do you use one diode for each rectifier? Is my wiring proposal correct? Find a pic attached.
Anything else I need to know?
Thanks a lot for your help :-)
Hi Lenny.
1. I indeed only used the power pins. I use 1 of the three phases of 230V to open the contactor.
2. I just followed the common practice on this forum of (fast) charging to 114V and let the onboard take care of the last bit.
3. I do have the button to adjust the current if i would want to. The voltage is set permanently to 57.0 Volts.
4. I guess you could. Just be sure that you use the " bottom" 2 flatpacks (where the - output of the flatpack is connected to bat-)
5. the leonardo board uses a SPX3819 voltage regulator. thats a 5V output low drop voltage regulator. it needs anything between 5.5 and 16 Volt. I used a 36-72 volt input to 5 v output DC-DC converter to power the board and connected it to the 5V input terminals.
6. i think so.
7. Yes, i use a switch in series. Otherwise the EVstation won't release the plug :)
(http://elweb.info/dokuwiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=adapter_typ2_cee.png)
8. I used a dual diode in one housing (IXYS DSA70C150HB) which is a 2x35A schottky diode. It fits nicely inside the housing of the Flatpack S against the side. That way it doesn't disrupt airflow through the unit.
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Hi Lenny.
1. I indeed only used the power pins. I use 1 of the three phases of 230V to open the contactor.
2. I just followed the common practice on this forum of (fast) charging to 114V and let the onboard take care of the last bit.
3. I do have the button to adjust the current if i would want to. The voltage is set permanently to 57.0 Volts.
4. I guess you could. Just be sure that you use the " bottom" 2 flatpacks (where the - output of the flatpack is connected to bat-)
5. the leonardo board uses a SPX3819 voltage regulator. thats a 5V output low drop voltage regulator. it needs anything between 5.5 and 16 Volt. I used a 36-72 volt input to 5 v output DC-DC converter to power the board and connected it to the 5V input terminals.
6. i think so.
7. Yes, i use a switch in series. Otherwise the EVstation won't release the plug :)
8. I used a dual diode in one housing (IXYS DSA70C150HB) which is a 2x35A schottky diode. It fits nicely inside the housing of the Flatpack S against the side. That way it doesn't disrupt airflow through the unit.
Thanks :-) To clarify a few things:
3. So you're still working with a switch which connects the Leonardo board to the CAN of always just one of the four flatpacks at the same time?
4. Ok. So I'll try that, hoping not to burn anything ;-)
5. With the usual flatpacks you used the 12V of the fan right? Doesn't work with the flatpack S anymore? DC/DC converter is parallel to one of the flatpacks?
8. I already found the diodes you mentioned, will order them as well. But my wiring proposal is correct?
Happy to commence with fast charging soon :-)
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Finished my prototype today and did a short test with it. Works fine :-)
It's basically all the same with remmie's, just a few details are different. Used breakout boards sold on endless-sphere for the rectifiers instead of direct soldering to avoid any permanent modification to them apart from the default voltage setting. Arduino code for testing was very simple, but voltage and current regulation works fine.
Test was on my FXS, that's why I just used two rectifiers. Charge Fuse appears to be 60 or 70 A on those models, so less charging power recommended ;-)
Started at about 43% SOC, stopped at around 95%. Needed roughly 45 min, I didn't measure precisely. Current reduction started at about 85% SOC, tappers down quite fast then. No problems at all besides the fact that cell voltage difference is very high during charging, so a balancing with the onboard charger seems to be a good idea from time to time.
Rectifiers made a funny "clicking" and "buzzing" noise under high current, are yours doing the same remmie? Also the yellow warning LED came up from the beginning and shut down when tapering down begann, guess that's a "current limit reached warning" or something like that right?
Things to be done:
-display integration with live coverage of charging data
-buttons for charge current and other adjustments
-230VAC/5VDC supply for Leonardo board and display
Further Ideas:
-some sort of housing for weather protection
-measurement of input voltage and current for additional features an protection
-enhanced PWM communication to limit charge current to the max. of the chargepoint
-6 piece FlatpackS charger with direct controller connection built into the motorcycle if my dad decides to buy a 13kWh model
Might still take some time to do all of this, need to write a few exams soon :)
Thanks a lot for the amazing work you have done and to share it with us remmie, wouldn't been able to accomplish this on my own!
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Finished my prototype today and did a short test with it. Works fine :-)
It's basically all the same with remmie's, just a few details are different. Used breakout boards sold on endless-sphere for the rectifiers instead of direct soldering to avoid any permanent modification to them apart from the default voltage setting. Arduino code for testing was very simple, but voltage and current regulation works fine.
Test was on my FXS, that's why I just used two rectifiers. Charge Fuse appears to be 60 or 70 A on those models, so less charging power recommended ;-)
Started at about 43% SOC, stopped at around 95%. Needed roughly 45 min, I didn't measure precisely. Current reduction started at about 85% SOC, tappers down quite fast then. No problems at all besides the fact that cell voltage difference is very high during charging, so a balancing with the onboard charger seems to be a good idea from time to time.
Rectifiers made a funny "clicking" and "buzzing" noise under high current, are yours doing the same remmie? Also the yellow warning LED came up from the beginning and shut down when tapering down begann, guess that's a "current limit reached warning" or something like that right?
Things to be done:
-display integration with live coverage of charging data
-buttons for charge current and other adjustments
-230VAC/5VDC supply for Leonardo board and display
Further Ideas:
-some sort of housing for weather protection
-measurement of input voltage and current for additional features an protection
-enhanced PWM communication to limit charge current to the max. of the chargepoint
-6 piece FlatpackS charger with direct controller connection built into the motorcycle if my dad decides to buy a 13kWh model
Might still take some time to do all of this, need to write a few exams soon :)
Thanks a lot for the amazing work you have done and to share it with us remmie, wouldn't been able to accomplish this on my own!
Link to the breakout boards sold on ES ??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Link to the breakout boards sold on ES ??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here you go: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=83288
Just follow the thread, you'll see a pic of the breakout board. Usually sold with XT60 connectors. I decided just to get the bare PCB, although the XT60 seem quite good. Maybe I'll use them for the next one. Send him a PM with your wishes.
If you need a Flatpack 2HE, please let me know. I've one for sale, bought three of them originally, but will stay with two for now with my FXS, as I don't want to modify the charge fuse.
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I am about to start on a similar 2 x Flatpack2HE fast charger - despite the fact that my FXS is still at the dealer waiting to be registered! I've got a couple of questions (mainly for Lenny and remmie) if you don't mind.
1. How do you use the fast charger along with the on-board as far as managing in-rush current, pre-charging capacitors, opening contactors, etc. I would assume that you connect the fast charger to the bike (unpowered) then power on the standard charger first and fast charger next.
2. I assume that once the battery reaches 114V that the fast charger continues producing 114V but no current is being drawn. Is this just left this way until you walk up and switch it off? Can you see any point in monitoring and powering the fast charger off (via relay on main input) once it's no longer being used.
3. Has anyone bothered using an isolated can transceiver like TI ISO1050 to monitor both packs? Getting a 5V supply relative to CAN ground would be necessary though. I was also wondering if it would be possible to just use a couple of optoisolators on the CAN output. Once the voltage is permanently set the CAN communication would be one way so might should be possible.
4. All that output current through those PCB traces makes me nervous. I'm thinking of milling out that space on the PCB and having a solid copper insert held in there instead. I've got a CNC mill so could make some inserts out of 1.5mm copper sheet. Could probably get away with thinner copper on the rest of the PCB then too. Any thoughts on this?
5. Does 8 AWG feel about right for the high current feed to Anderson connectors? It's for a FXS if that matters.
Thanks for all the work on this that you and others on endless sphere have done. It's great.
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I am about to start on a similar 2 x Flatpack2HE fast charger - despite the fact that my FXS is still at the dealer waiting to be registered! I've got a couple of questions (mainly for Lenny and remmie) if you don't mind.
1. How do you use the fast charger along with the on-board as far as managing in-rush current, pre-charging capacitors, opening contactors, etc. I would assume that you connect the fast charger to the bike (unpowered) then power on the standard charger first and fast charger next.
I First connect the aux charger with the Anderson connector, then connect the onboard on the side (or the other way around, it doesn't really matter as both are unpowered. I then connect the 230V side of both the onboard and the flatpacks simultaneously. The flatpacks take a few seconds to power up. The onboard charger has enough time in those few seconds to pre-charge and engage the contractor.
2. I assume that once the battery reaches 114V that the fast charger continues producing 114V but no current is being drawn. Is this just left this way until you walk up and switch it off? Can you see any point in monitoring and powering the fast charger off (via relay on main input) once it's no longer being used.
You're correct, The ORing diodes in the flatpack make sure that there is no back flow of current as the onboard charges beyond 114V. I really can't see any point in powering the fast chargers off at this point. I just leave them connected.
3. Has anyone bothered using an isolated can transceiver like TI ISO1050 to monitor both packs? Getting a 5V supply relative to CAN ground would be necessary though. I was also wondering if it would be possible to just use a couple of optoisolators on the CAN output. Once the voltage is permanently set the CAN communication would be one way so might should be possible.
I didn't bother. Just monitoring the bottom charger is enough for me. If you use the same power supplies the top one will do exactly the same as the bottom one.
4. All that output current through those PCB traces makes me nervous. I'm thinking of milling out that space on the PCB and having a solid copper insert held in there instead. I've got a CNC mill so could make some inserts out of 1.5mm copper sheet. Could probably get away with thinner copper on the rest of the PCB then too. Any thoughts on this?
I didn't use a PCB I stuck the wires in the contacts of the flatpack and soldered them to the contacts.
5. Does 8 AWG feel about right for the high current feed to Anderson connectors? It's for a FXS if that matters.
I use 8 AWG for my 7.2 kW charger (4x 1.8 kW) so for 2x 2 kw it should be more than sufficient
Thanks for all the work on this that you and others on endless sphere have done. It's great.
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I am about to start on a similar 2 x Flatpack2HE fast charger - despite the fact that my FXS is still at the dealer waiting to be registered! I've got a couple of questions (mainly for Lenny and remmie) if you don't mind.
1. How do you use the fast charger along with the on-board as far as managing in-rush current, pre-charging capacitors, opening contactors, etc. I would assume that you connect the fast charger to the bike (unpowered) then power on the standard charger first and fast charger next.
2. I assume that once the battery reaches 114V that the fast charger continues producing 114V but no current is being drawn. Is this just left this way until you walk up and switch it off? Can you see any point in monitoring and powering the fast charger off (via relay on main input) once it's no longer being used.
3. Has anyone bothered using an isolated can transceiver like TI ISO1050 to monitor both packs? Getting a 5V supply relative to CAN ground would be necessary though. I was also wondering if it would be possible to just use a couple of optoisolators on the CAN output. Once the voltage is permanently set the CAN communication would be one way so might should be possible.
4. All that output current through those PCB traces makes me nervous. I'm thinking of milling out that space on the PCB and having a solid copper insert held in there instead. I've got a CNC mill so could make some inserts out of 1.5mm copper sheet. Could probably get away with thinner copper on the rest of the PCB then too. Any thoughts on this?
5. Does 8 AWG feel about right for the high current feed to Anderson connectors? It's for a FXS if that matters.
Thanks for all the work on this that you and others on endless sphere have done. It's great.
Hi Fred,
We're in the same proces. I hope to finish my prototype this week containing 2 used flat packs 2HE2000, previously used by Remmie. But still waiting for parts. I try to answer with my knowledge so far:
1 connect both and switch power on, the flatpacks run in in 60 seconds, enough time to close the contactor
2 just leave it plugged until you pick up the bike again. For me I use it as a charger on my work space. Overnight at home I use just the onboard and let the pack proper balance
3 not really necessary, if you reduce the current of one flat pack, the other has to follow, since they are in series. I connect just the flatpack wich is connected to the battery - to the CAN bus. There's communication back and forth though; I readout the current, voltage and temperature wich shows on the display. I also can change the current of the charger so I match the power socket to wich I'm connected to. Mennkes or a 16A household source.
4 me too, I've got mine already soldered by Remmie. He managed to solder the wires inside the flatpach on the inside back connections. Also this pcb takes up too much space.
5 sounds great, 8awg is about 10mm2. Don't make it too long. 1,5m should be fine. I just place the charger next to the bike to keep these wires short
I will post my version of the Remmie Charger and a how to when it is publishable.
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Thanks for the replies, guys. So essentially it's "stick a constant voltage in through the accessory charging port and don't worry about it". The electronics geek in me still wants to add more but it's nice to know that Zero are taking care of the important stuff.
I assume there isn't any official information about what you should and shouldn't be doing with the port - other than "use an approved charger".
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Thanks for the replies, guys. So essentially it's "stick a constant voltage in through the accessory charging port and don't worry about it". The electronics geek in me still wants to add more but it's nice to know that Zero are taking care of the important stuff.
Just plug the onboard charger, the Anderson from the FlatPacks and then apply power to both at the same time. The Flatpacks run slowly (60s, thats in the code) in and the current is also fading in. The contactor closes after a few seconds so this runs elegantely.
For finishing charging, unplug the common mains first and then the anderson and onboard cables. When disconnected, It takes the Flatpacks a rough minute to drain the high DC voltage to zero on the Anderson output connector. So take care here.
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So.. worked a lot last day's on the Arduino Controlled Eltek Flatpack Charger. Just had to dig in this matter. I use 2 flatpack's 2HE 2000 in series together with the code from Remmie posted earlier in this thread. This charger is for now a nice side project but I want to use it on a daily basis at my workspace where only one 16A single phase 230V is available.
Also want to use the charger on 11kW and 22kW 3 phase stations in the city's here. So I was very happy with the code wich alows you to step through 10A till 40A in steps of 10A, starting at 10A. This should give me the flexibility I want! I tweaked the code a bit here and there, but no substantial changes. Mostly conserning the display.
It all seems to runs smooth when testing, BUT.. things really depends on the charge state when you start charging. If you are starting the charge with a battery above the 65% all is fine. It nicely starts charging at 10A and keeps sitting here untill you press the button to raise it to 20A. All good.
But when you start charging the bike below this 65% charge the charger won't listen to the Amps set. It just gives it all. It runs in smoothly in and goes to the 10A, wait a 20 seconds or so and runs furher to max current. I just can't explain this behaveour.
Code is code right, so is this a thing of the charger ignoring the CAN messages? I'm puzzled..
Is the charger going into a Constant current mode when the SOC is low and so overriding the code?
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If the code works at higher charge levels, then there is no reason for the code itself to work differently at lower charge levels. So the code itself should not be wrong. This leads me to believe that the flatpack has some "safety" mechanism active at lower voltages.
As the flatpack is a charger for telecom use and not a rectifier perhaps it defaults to full current when below a certain voltage even though the maximum current is set lower.
I think it's easy to test.
Ride the bike until a low state of charge (20% for example). Use the charger on a charging station with enough capacity (22 kW) and set the current to say 10A. Because of this "safety mechanism" the current will be higher than the 10A. As the charge level rises, so will the output voltage. Keep notes on the current and the output voltage every few minutes (or every minute if you have the time :) ) at some point the charger would have to go to the set current of 10A or it tapers down from full current to 10A. Maybe there is a specific voltage at which this occurs. maybe 48 Volt (the nominal voltage) or 53.5 Volt (the default factory voltage).
I have no idea if this behavior is configurable in the flatpack. That would require a smart pack module and documentation from eltek and if it is hard coded into the flatpack there's no way around it using only the flatpack.
Another way would be to alter the code that when it is set to 10A and the output current exceeds this to lower the output voltage to counteract this. The output voltage is set every second in my code so can be altered. Or the other way around : start at a low voltage and raise the voltage until the current exceeds the threshold. Because the battery pack would rise in charge, the current would go back to 10A. Then raise the voltage again until the current rises above 10A etc etc.
It would help to have the current and voltage at different charge levels.
I havent ridden the bike since November and don't plan to until the weather improves (Yes, I am a fair weather rider 8) ) so no real way for me to test it.
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Well I can do it, I ride all year round.. 8)
I was also in doubt if it was the code, just because it works at higher levels.
I will check and post the data of the app on a 22kW station and see how Voltage, Amps and Charge % are developping while charging. And see the point when the Amps of the charger are starting to drop to 10A.
Couldn't it be the case that the rectifier wants to keep a certain ouput Wattage? So when battery voltage is low, he raises the amp's to reach for a certain power Wattage. Is that what Eltek is referring to with the term "Constant power"?
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I'm actually riding my FXS daily, but right now there's no time for further testing of my supercharger :-)
Wijnand I can offer you my very simplified code for testing just to make sure its not the code. I started charging at 45% SOC during my last and only test, and if remember correctly everything worked fine. I was connected to the Leonardo board with my laptop and uploaded the updated code to it when I wanted to change the current. Just changed variable names.
#include <mcp_can.h>
#include <mcp_can_dfs.h>
#include <SPI.h>
const int SPI_CS_PIN = 17;//Set CS pin to pin 17 (Leonardo)
MCP_CAN CAN(SPI_CS_PIN);// Set CS pin for CANBUS shield
void setup()
{
pinMode(23, OUTPUT);
START_INIT:
if(CAN_OK == CAN.begin(CAN_125KBPS))
{
}
else
{
goto START_INIT;
}
}
void loop()
{
digitalWrite(23, HIGH); //trigger LED to be able to see if CAN-board is active
delay(1000);
digitalWrite(23, LOW);
unsigned char loginRect1[8] = {0x12, 0x35, 0x71, 0x10, 0x05, 0x08, 0x00, 0x00}; //SerialNr. of rectifier 1
unsigned char loginRect2[8] = {0x12, 0x35, 0x71, 0x10, 0x16, 0x79, 0x00, 0x00}; //SerialNr. of rectifier 2
unsigned char loginRect3[8] = {0x14, 0x03, 0x72, 0x10, 0x98, 0x88, 0x00, 0x00}; //SerialNr. of rectifier 3
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05004805, 1, 8, loginRect2); //send message to rectifierX
unsigned char setV10i[8] = {0x64, 0x00, 0x44, 0x16, 0x44, 0x16, 0x3E, 0x17}; //10A charge current, 57V voltage
unsigned char setV20i[8] = {0xC8, 0x00, 0x44, 0x16, 0x44, 0x16, 0x3E, 0x17}; //20A charge current, 57V voltage
unsigned char setV30i[8] = {0x2C, 0x01, 0x44, 0x16, 0x44, 0x16, 0x3E, 0x17}; //30A charge current, 57V voltage
unsigned char setV40i[8] = {0xF4, 0x01, 0x44, 0x16, 0x44, 0x16, 0x3E, 0x17}; //40A charge current, 57V voltage
unsigned char setVpermanent[5] = {0x29, 0x15, 0x00, 0x44, 0x16}; //command for permanent voltage reprogramming
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05FF4005, 1, 8, setV40i); //set current, voltage, voltage protection and walk in period
//CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05019C00, 1, 5, setVpermanent); //set permanent voltage
delay(2000);
}
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I don't think so because you can set 10A at 57 volts which is 570 Watts. If it's constant power it should be 570/48 = 12 A and not the full 41.7 Amps.
I think the term constant power comes from the fact that above 48 Volts the maximum current tapers down so the unit doesn't deliver more than 2000W.
So below 48 volt the flatpack outputs 41.7 Amps (it's maximum). above it maximum 2000W.
43 Volt : 41.7 Amps (1793 W)
48 Volt : 41.7 Amps (2000 W)
53.5 Volt : 37.4 Amps (2000 W)
57.6 Volt : 34.7 Amps (2000 W)
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So, to get more data of the chargeproces with the Elteks and to find a solution for the uncontrollable current in a low chargestate I did the following:
Today I rode the bike down to 25% and arrived in a workshop of a friend of mine where I can charge the bike with enough current.
I set up the charger and Iphone with the app so I can gather all data visually via the GoPro (timelapse 30secs) I let the bike on the whole charge.
Start:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/g3da7kh2aekvrtn/Start.JPG)
end:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/yqvfer063zezrva/end.JPG)
And later putting (almost) all in exel :o
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14638644/ChargeCurveMeasurement.xlsx
In the curve is a jump in current on about 50% (green line) this is the point where I can set and control the programmed current again. I putted it here on 20A to speed up the proces. The strange thing is that there's no real voltage change in that area where we could relate to in code.
Strange thing was that when the bike reaches its 100% the display of the motor started flashing and a soft beeping sound was heard. After removing the chargers from power and shutting down the bike all returned to normal.
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Hi Wijnand,
Excellent work on the Excel sheet !!!
I see a very distinct voltage ;D
If you look at cell G6..G98 which is the voltage output of the Eltek you see that the entire time the current exceeds the set current of 10A the voltage remains about the same (around 47 volts). It seems to me that the Eltek overrides the set output current below 47 Volts. In cells G6:G98 the minimum voltage is 46.82 and the maximum 47.02.
I think that if you would have left the set current at 10A you would have seen a voltage rise from the point the current stays at the set 10A. The 3 minutes you left it at 10A is not enough to see this rise in voltage. You can however see that the blue line in the graph rises after that point (after you changed to 20A)
Once the Eltek voltage is above 47 Volt it seems to listen to the set output current. Due to the HIGHER set current of 20A the output voltage rises even more and it stays nicely on the set output current.
It looks like if we can't find a solution for this we would have to go and play with a PID controller on the arduino to achieve current control throughout the range. We would have to make it quite slow to avoid oscillation but it should be possible. There are some standard libraries for PID control.
The input of the PID controller should be the actual output current, the setpoint obviously the desired output current and the output of the PID the output voltage of the eltek.
Letting the output voltage rise slowly should counteract the "safety mechanism" the Eltek has to not allow voltages below 47 Volt (when set to 57.7 Volt)
One thing to test though before we embark on the use of a PID controller (which can be a pain) is to set the desired output voltage to a lower voltage (say 53 Volt) when using the current limitation. If that would work then we could change the code so that the output voltage is a (couple of) volt above the measured voltage.
This would test if the safety mechanism is at a fixed voltage (47 volts like we determined above) or for example 10 Volts below the set output voltage (57 - 10 = 47 Volt). If the latter would be the case it is much easier to alter the code to overcome this.
Good work Wijnand !
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I've done a little investigation on the Flatpacks behaviour in the unlikely case of a contactor opening during charging for whatever reason and contacted Eltek with my questions. Seems like the Flatpack is pretty stable and fast. For a 90-10% load drop they propose max +5% which is regulated in less than 50ms according to the spec sheet, which I attached. Nevertheless I asked them about 100-0% measurements which they provided to me. If I understand the scaling of the diagram correctly, the spike is actually way lower than 5%, namely less than 1V. (one square equals 1V in the diagram according to the description). This would mean that a series of two flatpacks would spike up to ~116V when programmed to 114 (57V each), which seems pretty good. Additionally they mentioned, that values will look even way better if there's a little load remaining (50W), which would be the light bulbs if you charge with key on.
The Sevcon won't work above ~116V, but is safe up to 132V according to spec sheet. Pretty sure that other components will also withstand slightly higher voltages due to a spike. So I guess we don't have to worry too much with our Superchargers :-)
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Nice work. Do you think you could encapsulate all this into a procedure others could reliably reproduce? I might try but it'll take dedicated time to digest this thread properly.
FWIW I think from a few forum posts or hearsay, the Zero won't let the bike operate above 117V after the charge rate drops to zero, and 116V is where to aim for steady state, with 117V allowable during the charge (battery voltage effectively climbs while charging by about 1V for high powered charging). But it's best to aim for 116V during the CV/leveling phase for some margin of error (and also because supercharging right to the limit is less effective), and also to recalibrate the voltage sensor when ambient temperature changes a lot.
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Great investigation Lenny. Good to know. In the meantime I testted a lot together with Remmie, who is the absolute codemaster behind this all. He added a so called PID regulation to the Leonardo code, wich solved the problem of uncontrolable current when having a low state of charge. On my double flatpack 2000 and on his quadpack S this is now kind of working. But still tweaking though.
We're getting so close to a perfect controllable QuadEltekSupercharger ;D
This QuadEltekSupercharger you can now hook up to:
1 phase 16A (get as much from one single plug) : onboard + 2x10A = ~3,5 kW
3 phase 16A (get as much from one mennekes 11 kW station) : onboard + 2x30A = ~ 7,9kW
3 phase 32A (get as much from one mennekes 22kW station) : onboard + 4x1800W (full power) = ~8,5 kW
And, of course the
1 phase 6A (for example the socket on the capsite) : onboard only = ~1,3 kW
The charger is controlled with one pushbutton to set the current, starting with the 10A setting. A display shows Current Temps etc, see previous post. Now you can really charge everywhere and use the local power situation to the max. No matter what. 8) Soo cool
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For those interested : 2 Flatpack S units for sale on ebay (NOT FROM ME) :
http://www.ebay.nl/itm/241122-105-ELTEK-RECTIFIER-FLATPACK-S-48-1000-HE-NEW-/112242106413?hash=item1a2226a02d:g:i7EAAOSwux5YWB98 (http://www.ebay.nl/itm/241122-105-ELTEK-RECTIFIER-FLATPACK-S-48-1000-HE-NEW-/112242106413?hash=item1a2226a02d:g:i7EAAOSwux5YWB98)
not really cheap but availability is also an issue.
EDIT : THESE ARE 1000 Watt units, NOT THE MORE POWERFULL 1800 Watt UNITS !! (SORRY, an oversight on my part) :-[
And as Wijnand said : we are still tweaking the code to optimize the PID controller, but it is already workable now. For a single flatpack charger (set of 2 in series) it was fairly easy. Now the challenge is to extend the code for a quad (2S2P) flatpack with both "bottom" flatpacks connected through the CANBUS and regulating them both with a single arduino controller. Each would have their own PID controller for the output current.
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Great work you are doing here. I am extremely interested in this, too.
I am looking for a simple fastcharging solution, which I can utilize for the rare events when I go on a day trip (which is very, very rare). We have nice mountains in about 100km distance. So the trip to and from them would use the full charge, so I need some way to fastcharge something into the bike to enjoy riding over the mountains.
The DigiNow supercharger is great, but much too expensive for me for a planned usage of 2-3 times a year.
I can get tweo HE2000 flatpacks for a good price (I think). Is there somewhere a bit of documentation of what I need else and how to build it together? I have some knowledge in electrics, but mostly on low voltage/currents. Therefore I rather follow your successful implementations than developing something on my own :D
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Just a warning, with fast recharging it won't stay at 2-3 times a year!
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;D well, let's say, you might be right. But in general I have also limited time, and most of my trips are in the close surroundings. I, so far, only used twice about 85% of the charge. Most other trips use between 20-50%.
But yes ,with fast charging ,this may also change 8)
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Nice work. Do you think you could encapsulate all this into a procedure others could reliably reproduce? I might try but it'll take dedicated time to digest this thread properly.
FWIW I think from a few forum posts or hearsay, the Zero won't let the bike operate above 117V after the charge rate drops to zero, and 116V is where to aim for steady state, with 117V allowable during the charge (battery voltage effectively climbs while charging by about 1V for high powered charging). But it's best to aim for 116V during the CV/leveling phase for some margin of error (and also because supercharging right to the limit is less effective), and also to recalibrate the voltage sensor when ambient temperature changes a lot.
I could write a How-To with parts list and everything, but obviously the major amount of appreciation is well deserved for remmie, as he has done most of the work. Maybe I will just write a first version and remmie/Wijnand could add a few more details. Nevertheless I won't have time for that until mid of march.
Concerning the max voltage: the flatpacks are programmed to 114V, I was just referring to potential spikes due to contactor closing, which might damage electronics. In between 114V and 116V the top up will be done by the onboard charger alone, as the flatpacks have tapered down to 0A.
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A howto would be much appreciated ;) When I can source two 1800w-units I'll try this one myself, to minimise on-the-road charging. The units Remmie pointed out are 1000w units, and are a bit expensive for what you'll get. I'll have to keep my eyes open for some 1800w units...
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I'm also just getting started on building a 2 x Flatpack2 HE quick charger from the excellent work remmie and others have done.
The differences I'm hoping to incorporate are using solid copper contacts in place of worryingly thin PCB traces and using isolated CAN transceivers so that both packs can be monitored and controlled. I'll obviously share anything I do. Progress may be slow - I'm not in a great hurry as I'm still a week away from getting my Zero.
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A howto would be much appreciated ;) When I can source two 1800w-units I'll try this one myself, to minimise on-the-road charging. The units Remmie pointed out are 1000w units, and are a bit expensive for what you'll get. I'll have to keep my eyes open for some 1800w units...
OOPS, good catch Skidz (was so eager to share the availability I overlooked the fact they are 'only' 1000 W instead of the ones I have that are 1800 Watt. My apologies. :-[
I've edited my previous post accordingly
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Had some time this weekend to play around with the fastcharger and work some more on the code of the arduino.
The charger still consists of a 2S2P configuration without the center connection. So more like 2 flatpack in series connected in parallel to a second set of flatpacks in series.
Previously i had only connected 1 of the 4 flatpacks to the CANbus of the arduino, just to get some data from it and later for some current control.
It would obviously only control the current of one of the 2 strings of flatpacks in series. The other set would just charge full power.
So this weekend i connected the canbus connections of the 2 "bottom" flatpacks together to be able to read-out and control the current of both sets of flatpacks.
The good news is that it is no problem connecting those 2 canbusses without blowing anything up (so far) 8)
This way i can read out both "bottom" flatpacks and show the data on the tiny oled screen in one of them.
In the attached photo the display shows :
top row : mains voltage of FP1 in VAC + output power into the battery in watts (including the onboard charger!) + mains voltage of FP2
2nd row : in- and outlet temperature of FP1 and FP2 in Celcius
3rd row : Output voltage of FP1 and FP2 in volts
4th row : Output current of FP1 and FP2 in amps
5th row : Current setpoint (this setpoint can be changed with a small pushbutton.
Again a warning not to connect the canbus of a top and bottom flatpack together as the canbus references to the - output of the flatpack. !!! There would be a 57 volt difference between them.
I have added code to implement 2 independent PID controllers, 1 for each set of flatpacks. Unfortunately that cannot work. This is because the message to control the output current and voltage is a broadcast to all connected flatpacks. a message to a single flatpack does not work. The flatpacks are usually only connected in parallel (not in series) so this makes sort of sense for their intended purpose.
I chose to see what would happen if i just use a single PID controller which would control the current of one of the two sets and see what the other set would do.
The very good news is that the second set of flatpacks very closely follows the current of the first (controlled) set of flatpacks. It is at most about 0,5 to 1 amp less and often exactly the same.
This obviously saves a PID controller or even a completely new arduino. For the above to work it is very important that the 2 "top" flatpacks are set to the same voltage, otherwise this doesn't work properly. The 2 "top" flatpacks are not monitored and are set to 57.0 Volts with a short walkin (after powerup the unit reaches this 57.0 volt in about 5 seconds).
I also built in a small SMS module to send all data and the estimated SOC and Time to go to my iphone/apple watch. Very nice to sit in the restaurant/terras and to be able to still keep an eye on the charging process without getting up every 5 minutes to see whether the bike is still charging and how long it takes. Other attached picture is a screenshot of the apple watch message
I'll post the entire code once i've cleaned it up a bit and put some more commentary in it.
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I think those look tiny enough to be tucked away below the tail?
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one more picture at full power at 50% SOC
a calculated power input of 8919 watts into the battery (top of the display). It is probably a bit lower because in the code right now it is assumed the the top flatpack is at 57 volts which it will not be at full power.
the calculation is :
(57 + 52.8 volts) * 34.6 Amps + (57 + 52.88 volts) * 34.6 amps + (57 + 52.8 volts)*12 amps for the onboard (total 8919)
Because the flatpacks have a constant power regulation of 1800 watt it would never output more than 1800 watt (well 1822 is what i've seen)
if the current is at 34.60 amps, the top flatpack would be at 1822/34.6 = 52.7 volts rather than 57 and i therefore think the top flatpack is at the exact same voltage as the bottom one.
so the total power output would then be
(52.8 volts * 2)*34.6*2 + (52.8 volts*2) *12A = 8574 Watt so still quite nice.
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I think those look tiny enough to be tucked away below the tail?
I think you COULD but it would catch a lot of dirt and moisture there and they are IP20 so not weatherproof by any means.
I just put them in the "frunk" where they fit nicely, even together with a motorcycle chain lock.
(http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6405.0;attach=6709)
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Here's the first half of the code i have now due to a 20000 character limit of the forum
// from rectifier : (requests for logins)
// 05014400 + ser nr + 00 00 from rectifier : HELLOOW where are you ! rectifier sends 05014400 and 6 bytes serial number and followed by 00 00 (login request)
// 0500xxyy + 1B + ser nr + 00 is send during normal voltage every second. xxyy is the last 2 bytes from the serial number
// after either of these send 05004804 every 5 seconds ! to keep logged in. rectifier does not send login requests so after 10 second the numbers stop until 05014400 is sent
// from rectifier : (status messages)
// 0501400C + status data : walkin and below 43 volts (error) and during walk-out (input voltage low)
// 05014010 + status data : walkin busy
// 05014004 + status data : normal voltage reached
// 05014008 + status data : current-limiting active
// send TO rectifier (act as controller)
// 05004804 + ser nr + 00 00 from controller : send 05004804 and 6 bytes ser number followed by 00 00
// 05FF4004 controller sends current and voltage limits (last 4 is 5 sec walk-in, for 60 second walk-in use 05FF4005)
// 05FF4005 controller sends current and voltage limits (last 5 is 60 sec walk-in, for 5 second walk-in use 05FF4004)
// PID settings of 0.5 , 0.5 and 0.0 work excellent. Nice and slow buildup of voltage and current
#include <mcp_can.h> // library for CANBUS
#include <mcp_can_dfs.h> // library for CANBUS
#include <SPI.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <HT_SSD1306.h> // library for oled display
#include <SoftwareSerial.h> // library for SMS module
#include <PID_v1.h> // library for PID controller(s)
#define PIN_RESET 9 // Connect RST of oled display to pin 9
#define PIN_DC 10 // Connect DC of oled display to pin 8
#define PIN_CS 11 // Connect CS of oled display to pin 10
#define SIM800_TX_PIN 4 // Connect TX pin of SMS module to pin 4
#define SIM800_RX_PIN 5 // Connect RX pin of SMS module to pin 5
#define currentstep 50 // each press on the button is 10 amps more (divide by 10)
#define amphours 91 // amphours of my Zero SR 2014 (adjust accordingly)
#define onboardamps 12 // amount of amps the onboard cherger delivers (normally 12)
#define SPI_CS_PIN 17 // set the input pin for the CANBUS receiver (on the leonardoboard = 17)
#define buttonup 8 // inputpin for the pushbutton to step through the current steps
#define SMSinterval 300000 // interval in msec to send an SMS (300 sec = 5 minutes)
word currentsetpoint = 0; // set initial currentsetpoint (divide by 10)
word outputvoltage1 = 4350; // set output voltage of the first flatpack to 43.50 Volt (divide by 100)
word outputvoltage2 = 4350; // set output voltage of the second flatpack to 43.50 Volt (divide by 100)
word overvoltage = 5950; // set the overvoltage protection limit at 59.50 Volt (divide by 100)
double PIDSetpoint1, PIDInput1, PIDOutput1; // parameters for the first PID controller
double PIDSetpoint2, PIDInput2, PIDOutput2; // parameters for the second PID controller
unsigned char len = 0; // this variable holds the length of the CANBUS message received
unsigned char serialnr1[8] = {0x14,0x14,0x71,0x11,0x08,0x20,0x00,0x00}; // this variable holds the serialnumber of the first Flatpack
unsigned char serialnr2[8] = {0x16,0x02,0x71,0x12,0x76,0x44,0x00,0x00}; // this variable holds the serialnumber of the second Flatpack
int msgreceived1; // this variable holds the number of messages received from flatpack 1
int msgreceived2; // this variable holds the number of messages received from flatpack 2
int led = 23; // LED output pin for the leonardo CAN board= 23
long counter; // counter to determine when no new messages are available
unsigned long previousMillis = 0; // variable for the SMS function
int Ti1 = 0; // Temperature in from flatpack 1
int Ti2 = 0; // Temperature in from flatpack 2
int To1 = 0; // Temperature out from flatpack 1
int To2 = 0; // Temperature out from flatpack 2
int Vi1 = 0; // input voltage from flatpack 1
int Vi2 = 0; // input voltage from flatpack 2
float Vo1 = 0.0; // output voltage from flatpack 1
float Vo2 = 0.0; // output voltage from flatpack 2
float Io1 = 0.0; // output current from flatpack 1
float Io2 = 0.0; // output current from flatpack 1
int Po = 0; // output power variable
int SOC = 0; // State Of Charge variable
int TTG = 0; // Time To Go variable
int flatpackamount= 0; // amount of flatpacks used (only if serialnr is determined automatically)
SoftwareSerial serialSIM800(SIM800_TX_PIN,SIM800_RX_PIN); // initialise the SMS module
SSD1306 oled(PIN_RESET, PIN_DC, PIN_CS); // initialise the oled display
MCP_CAN CAN(SPI_CS_PIN); // Set CS pin for CANBUS shield
PID myPID1(&PIDInput1, &PIDOutput1, &PIDSetpoint1, 0.5,0.5,0,DIRECT); // PID controller settings
PID myPID2(&PIDInput2, &PIDOutput2, &PIDSetpoint2, 0.5,0.5,0,DIRECT); // PID controller settings
/********************
* SETUP
********************/
void setup() // Initialisation routine
{
pinMode(buttonup, INPUT); // Set pin 11 to input (pushbutton for up)
digitalWrite(buttonup, HIGH); // activate pull-up on A0
pinMode(led, OUTPUT); // pin 23 is the output pin for the LED on the LEONARDO CANBUS board
digitalWrite(led, LOW); // turn the LED of
oled.begin(); // initialise the oled display
oled.clear(ALL); // clear the oled display
oled.clear(PAGE); // set the cursor to home
oled.setFontType(1); // set the font size of the oled display
oled.flipHorizontal(1); // flip the display (because the way i mounted it)
oled.flipVertical(1); // flip the display (because the way i mounted it)
// delay(100); // delay to show the splash screen (do not use a long delay as the current may spike due to lack of communication with the flatpack
PIDInput1 = 0; // Initial input of the first PID controller
PIDInput2 = 0; // Initial input of the second PID controller
PIDSetpoint1 = currentsetpoint; // Initial Setpoint of the first PID controller
PIDSetpoint2 = currentsetpoint; // Initial Setpoint of the second PID controller
serialSIM800.begin(9600); // initialise the communication with the SMS module
Serial.begin(115200);
START_INIT:
if(CAN_OK == CAN.begin(CAN_125KBPS)) // init can bus : baudrate = 125k !!
{
oled.clear(PAGE); // clear the oled display
oled.setCursor(0,0); // set the cursor to home
oled.print("CAN OK"); // let the oled display show that the canbus initialised properly
oled.display(); // command to actually show on the oled display what has been printed just before
// delay(100); // delay to show the information for a short while
myPID1.SetMode(AUTOMATIC); // Start the first PID controller after the CANbus has initialised properly
myPID2.SetMode(AUTOMATIC); // Start the second PID controller after the CANbus has initialised properly
}
else
{
oled.clear(PAGE); // clear the oled display
oled.setCursor(0,0); // set the cursor to home
oled.print("CAN Fail"); // let the oled display that the canbus did not initialise properly
goto START_INIT; // return to the start of the canbus initialisation
}
digitalWrite(led,HIGH); // turn the LED on (indicating a message transmission)
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05004804, 1, 8, serialnr1); // send message to log in to the first flatpack and assign ID1 (DO NOT use an ID in the header, use 00, the third last number of the CANID determines ID of the flatpack (4=0, 8=1 C=2 etc) so 0x5004404 is ID0, 0x5004804 is ID1, 0x5004C04 is ID3 etc
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05004808, 1, 8, serialnr2); // send message to log in to the second flatpack and assign ID2 (DO NOT use an ID in the header, use 00, the third last number of the CANID determines ID of the flatpack (4=0, 8=1 C=2 etc) so 0x5004404 is ID0, 0x5004804 is ID1, 0x5004C04 is ID3 etc
digitalWrite(led,LOW); // turn the LED off
}
/********************
* MAIN PROGRAM
********************/
void loop() // MAIN PROGRAM (LOOP)
{
unsigned char buf[8] ;
if(CAN_MSGAVAIL == CAN.checkReceive()) // if data is available then :
{
unsigned char buf[8]={0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0};
counter=0; // reset the counter for non received messages
digitalWrite(led,HIGH); // turn the LED on (indicating a message reception)
CAN.readMsgBuf(&len, buf); // read data, len: data length, buf: data buf
INT32U canId = CAN.getCanId(); // read the CAN Id
digitalWrite(led,LOW); // turn the LED off
Serial.print(millis()*0.001);
Serial.print("\t");
Serial.print("0"); // leading zero
Serial.print(canId,HEX); // output CAN Id to serial monitor
Serial.print("\t"); // send Tab
for(int i = 0; i<len; i++) // print the data
{
if( buf[i] < 0x10){ Serial.print("0");} Serial.print(buf[i],HEX); // send a leading zero if only one digit
Serial.print(" "); // space to seperate bytes
}
Serial.println();
switch (canId)
{
case 0x05014400: // this is the request from the Flatpack rectifier during walk-in (start-up) or normal operation when no log-in response has been received for a while (ID1 or ID2)
case 0x05024400:
{ // the message itself consists of the (decimal) serial number of the flatpack unit in HEX format !! the sernr is 6 bytes. the remaining 2 bytes are not used (0x00)
digitalWrite(led,HIGH); // turn the LED on (indicating a message transmission)
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05004804, 1, 8, serialnr1); // send message to log in to the first flatpack and assign ID1 (DO NOT use an ID in the header, use 00, the third last number of the CANID determines ID of the flatpack (4=0, 8=1 C=2 etc) so 0x5004404 is ID0, 0x5004804 is ID1, 0x5004C04 is ID3 etc
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05004808, 1, 8, serialnr2); // send message to log in to the second flatpack and assign ID2 (DO NOT use an ID in the header, use 00, the third last number of the CANID determines ID of the flatpack (4=0, 8=1 C=2 etc) so 0x5004404 is ID0, 0x5004804 is ID1, 0x5004C04 is ID3 etc
digitalWrite(led,LOW); // turn the LED off
msgreceived1++; // increase the variable "msgreceived" for flatpack 1
}
break;
case 0x05000820: // if CANID = 0500xxyy where xxyy the last 2 digits of the serial nr
{
digitalWrite(led,HIGH); // turn the LED on (indicating a message reception/transmission)
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05004804, 1, 8, serialnr1); // send message to log in to the first flatpack and assign ID1 (DO NOT use an ID in the header, use 00, the third last number of the CANID determines ID of the flatpack (4=0, 8=1 C=2 etc) so 0x5004404 is ID0, 0x5004804 is ID1, 0x5004C04 is ID3 etc
digitalWrite(led,LOW); // turn the LED off
msgreceived1=0; // reset the variable "msgreceived" because we just logged in
}
break;
case 0x05003644: // if CANID = 0500xxyy where xxyy the last 2 digits of the serial nr
{
digitalWrite(led,HIGH); // turn the LED on (indicating a message reception/transmission)
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05004808, 1, 8, serialnr2); // send message to log in to the second flatpack and assign ID2 (DO NOT use an ID in the header, use 00, the third last number of the CANID determines ID of the flatpack (4=0, 8=1 C=2 etc) so 0x5004404 is ID0, 0x5004804 is ID1, 0x5004C04 is ID3 etc
digitalWrite(led,LOW); // turn the LED off
msgreceived1=0; // reset the variable "msgreceived" because we just logged in
}
break;
-
and the second part of the code
case 0x05014004:
case 0x05014008:
case 0x05014010:
case 0x0501400C:
{
msgreceived1++; // increase number of messages received
if(msgreceived1>40) // if more that 40 messages received then :
{
msgreceived1=0; // reset the number of messages received
digitalWrite(led,HIGH); // turn the LED on (indicating a message reception/transmission)
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05004804, 1, 8, serialnr1); //send message to log in to the first flatpack every 40 messages (DO NOT USE ID NR, USE 00) this because during walk-in the 0500xxyy is not send and the rectifier "logs out" because of no received log-in messages from controller
digitalWrite(led,LOW); // turn the LED off
}
Ti1=buf[0]; // Inlet temperature is byte 0 in the status message
To1=buf[7]; // Outlet temperature is byte 7 in the status message
Vi1=256*buf[6]+buf[5]; // Input voltage is byte 6 (highbyte) and byte 5 (lowbyte) in the status message
Vo1=(0.01*(256*buf[4]+buf[3])); // Output voltage is byte 4 (highbyte) and 3 (lowbyte) in the status message / added with 57.6 because of the flatpack in series
Io1=(0.1*(256*buf[2]+buf[1])); // Output current is byte 2 (highbyte) and 1 (lowbyte) in the status message
PIDSetpoint1 = currentsetpoint*0.1; // The PID setpoint is the maxcurrent (division by 10 due to deciamps in the code)
PIDInput1 = Io1; // The PID input is the actual current measured by the Flatpack
myPID1.Compute(); // calculate a new output value for the PID controller
outputvoltage1 = 4350 + PIDOutput1*(5760-4350)/255; // Scale the PID output (0-255) to the Flatpack output (43.50 to 57.60 Volt)
if(outputvoltage1 > 5760) // limit the voltout in case the PID goes beyond 255 (which normally won't happen)
{
outputvoltage1 = 5760; // never output a voltage above 57.6 volts
}
goto DISPLAYDATA;
}
break;
case 0x05024004:
case 0x05024008:
case 0x05024010:
case 0x0502400C:
{
msgreceived2++; // increase number of messages received
if(msgreceived2>40) // if more that 40 messages received then :
{
msgreceived2=0; // reset the number of messages received
digitalWrite(led,HIGH); // turn the LED on (indicating a message reception/transmission)
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05004808, 1, 8, serialnr2); // send message to log in to the second flatpack and assign ID2 (DO NOT use an ID in the header, use 00, the third last number of the CANID determines ID of the flatpack (4=0, 8=1 C=2 etc) so 0x5004404 is ID0, 0x5004804 is ID1, 0x5004C04 is ID3 etc
digitalWrite(led,LOW); // turn the LED off
}
Ti2=buf[0]; // Inlet temperature is byte 0 in the status message
To2=buf[7]; // Outlet temperature is byte 7 in the status message
Vi2=256*buf[6]+buf[5]; // Input voltage is byte 6 (highbyte) and byte 5 (lowbyte) in the status message
Vo2=(0.01*(256*buf[4]+buf[3])); // Output voltage is byte 4 (highbyte) and 3 (lowbyte) in the status message / multiplied by 2 due to 2 rectifiers in series
Io2=(0.1*(256*buf[2]+buf[1])); // Output current is byte 2 (highbyte) and 1 (lowbyte) in the status message / the onboardamps value is added for the onboard charger / multiplied by 2 due to a quadpack (2S2P)
PIDSetpoint2 = currentsetpoint*0.1; // The PID setpoint is the maxcurrent (division by 10 due to deciamps in the code)
PIDInput2 = Io2; // The PID input is the actual current measured by the Flatpack
myPID2.Compute(); // calculate a new output value for the PID controller
outputvoltage2 = 4350 + PIDOutput2*(5760-4350)/255; // Scale the PID output (0-255) to the Flatpack output (43.50 to 57.60 Volt)
outputvoltage2 = constrain (outputvoltage2, 4350,5760);
if(outputvoltage2 > 5760) // limit the voltout in case the PID goes beyond 255 (which normally won't happen)
{
outputvoltage2 = 5760; // never output a voltage above 57.6 volts
}
DISPLAYDATA:
Po=round((57+Vo1)*Io1+(57+Vo2)*Io2+(57+Vo1)*12); // Output power is output voltage times output current + onboard
SOC=-0.2177*(Vo1+57)*(Vo1+57)+51.437*(Vo1+57)-2940.1; // State of charge (in percentage) is calculated using a curve (this is an approximate value !!)
TTG=(100-SOC)*0.6*amphours/(Io1+Io2+12); // 91 = total amp hours
SOC = constrain(SOC,0,100); // limit the State of Charge to between 0 and 100%
oled.setCursor(0, 0); // set the cursor on the first line to show data on the LCD screen 0x050140yy 0xAA 0xBB 0xCC 0xDD 0xEE 0xFF 0xGG 0xHH
oled.print("V "); // input voltage
oled.print(Vi1); // 0xFF = Voltage in Low byte, 0xGG = Voltage in High byte. Voltage in Volts (because voltage is below 255 Volts, high byte is always 0)
oled.print(" ");
oled.print(Po); // output power
oled.print(" ");
oled.print(Vi2); // Input voltage of FP2
oled.print(" ");
oled.setCursor(0,13); // set the cursor on the second line
oled.print("T "); // temperatures
oled.print(Ti1); // 0xAA (byte 0) = Temperature in (celcius)
oled.print("/");
oled.print(To1); // 0xHH (byte 7) = Temperature out (celcius)
oled.print(" ");
oled.print(Ti2); // 0xAA (byte 0) = Temperature in (celcius)
oled.print("/");
oled.print(To2); // 0xHH (byte 7) = Temperature out (celcius)
oled.setCursor(0,26); // set the cursor on the third line
oled.print("V "); // Voltage out
oled.print(Vo1); // Voltage out of flatpack 1
oled.print(" ");
oled.print(Vo2); // Voltage out of flatpack 2
oled.setCursor(0,39); // set the cursor on the 4th line
oled.print("I "); // current
if(Io1<10)
{
oled.print(" "); // if current is below zero add a space to align the values on the display better
}
oled.print(Io1); // Current out from flatpack 1
oled.print(" ");
if(Io2<10) // if current is below zero add a space to align the values on the display better
{
oled.print(" ");
}
oled.print(Io2); // Current out from flatpack 2
oled.setCursor(0,52); // Set the cursor to the 5th line
oled.print("I set to "); // Current setpoint
if(currentsetpoint<100)
{
oled.print(" ");
}
oled.print(currentsetpoint*0.1); // display the current current setting
oled.display(); // actually display the content printed above
digitalWrite(led,HIGH); // turn the LED on (indicating a message reception/transmission)
unsigned char stmp1[8] = {lowByte(450), highByte(450), lowByte(outputvoltage1), highByte(outputvoltage1), lowByte(outputvoltage1), highByte(outputvoltage1), lowByte(overvoltage), highByte(overvoltage)}; // set all rectifiers maxcurrent, outputvoltage and OVP and long walk-in 4005 or short walk in 4004
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05FF4004, 1, 8, stmp1); //(last 4 in header is for 5 sec walkin, 5 is for 60 second walkin)
// unsigned char stmp2[8] = {lowByte(450), highByte(450), lowByte(outputvoltage2), highByte(outputvoltage2), lowByte(outputvoltage2), highByte(outputvoltage2), lowByte(overvoltage), highByte(overvoltage)}; // set rectifiers maxcurrent, outputvoltage and OVP and long walk-in 4005 or short walk in 4004
// CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05024004, 1, 8, stmp2); //This does NOT work so it is deleted, only a broadcast to all rectifiers can be called
digitalWrite(led,LOW); // turn the LED off
}
break;
default: // If the CANID is not any of the above then :
{
oled.clear(PAGE); // clear the oled display
oled.setCursor(0,0); // set the cursor on the first line
oled.print(canId,HEX); // show the unknown can Id on the oled display
oled.setCursor(0,16);
for(int i = 0; i<len; i++) // cycle through all the bytes
{
if( buf[i] < 0x10){ oled.print("0");} oled.print(buf[i],HEX); // send a leading zero if only one digit
}
delay(1000); // show the message for 1 second and then continue
}
break;
}
}
else // if no can message available do :
{
counter++; // increase the counter
if(counter > 20000) // 20000 loops without a CAN message means no data available (approx 2 seconnds)
{
oled.clear(PAGE); // clear the oled display
oled.setCursor(0,0); // set the cursor on the first line
oled.print("NO DATA"); // show "No DATA" on the oled display
oled.display(); // display the actual content printed above
}
if((digitalRead(buttonup)==0)) // read digital pin for button up and if it is low (pushbutton is pressed)
{
currentsetpoint = currentsetpoint + currentstep; // raise maxcurrent with the amount specified in the currentstep constant (10 A)
if(currentsetpoint > 400) // to be able to lower the current with one button, if the maxcurrent > 40 the current is reset to 10
{
currentsetpoint =50; // rest the current to 10 A
}
// oled.setCursor(0,52); // Set the cursor to the fourth line
// oled.print("I set to "); // send to display
// oled.print(currentsetpoint*0.1); // display the current current setting
// oled.display(); // display the actual content printed above
delay(200);
}
-
and the final part 3
unsigned long currentMillis = millis(); // take the actual time in milliseconds from the start of the arduino (overflows in 55 days so no worries there)
if (currentMillis - previousMillis >= SMSinterval) // if the current time exceeds the SMS interval time (5 min)
{
previousMillis = currentMillis; // save the current time
serialSIM800.write("AT+CMGF=1\r\n"); // write the command " send a SMS message to the SMS module
delay(100); // wait a bit to let the module handle the command
serialSIM800.write("AT+CMGS=\"+31612345678\"\r\n"); // send the receiving telephone number to the SMS module
delay(1000); // wait a bit to let the module handle the command
digitalWrite(led,HIGH); // turn the LED on to indicate message reception / transmission
serialSIM800.print("Time="); // send the current time since the start of the uC to the SMS module
serialSIM800.print(millis()/60000); // send the time in minutes
serialSIM800.print((char)10); // new line command
serialSIM800.print("Ti="); // inlet temperature
serialSIM800.print(Ti1); // inlet temperature
serialSIM800.print("/");
serialSIM800.print(Ti2); // inlet temperature
serialSIM800.print((char)10); // new line command
serialSIM800.print("To="); // outlet temperature
serialSIM800.print(To1); // outlet temperature
serialSIM800.print("/");
serialSIM800.print(To2); // outlet temperature
serialSIM800.print((char)10); // new line command
serialSIM800.print("Vi="); // input voltage
serialSIM800.print(Vi1); // input voltage
serialSIM800.print("/");
serialSIM800.print(Vi2); // input voltage
serialSIM800.print((char)10); // new line command
serialSIM800.print("Vo="); // output voltage
serialSIM800.print(Vo1); // output voltage
serialSIM800.print("/");
serialSIM800.print(Vo2); // output voltage
serialSIM800.print((char)10); // new line command
serialSIM800.print("Io="); // output current
serialSIM800.print(Io1); // output current
serialSIM800.print("/");
serialSIM800.print(Io2); // output current
serialSIM800.print((char)10); // new line command
serialSIM800.print("Po="); // output power
serialSIM800.print(Po); // output power
serialSIM800.print(" SOC="); // State of Charge
serialSIM800.print(int(SOC)); // State of Charge
serialSIM800.print("%"); // State of Charge
serialSIM800.print((char)10); // new line command
serialSIM800.print("Iset="); // Current setpoint
serialSIM800.print(int(currentsetpoint*0.1)); // Current setpoint
serialSIM800.print(" TTG="); // Time To Go
serialSIM800.print(TTG); // Time To Go
serialSIM800.print((char)26); // end of message command
delay(100); // wait a bit to let the SMS module handle the command
digitalWrite(led,LOW); // turn the LED off
}
}
}
-
since you're doing all this work anyway, you might as well talk to the higher power supplies as well. All you need to do is use a can bus opto isolator.
-
since you're doing all this work anyway, you might as well talk to the higher power supplies as well. All you need to do is use a can bus opto isolator.
That would be the easiest for sure but I've looked into that but it's not as easy as it seems. I can't seem to find a simple and small CAN to CAN optoisolated converter which would fit into the flatpack S.
-
Nice work! Using the 8.5kW of the flatpacks with 1.3kW of the onboard and 2.5kW of a charge tank you'd get awfully close to 1C charging at 12.3kW.... If only there would be more flatpacks available at an affordable price...
-
since you're doing all this work anyway, you might as well talk to the higher power supplies as well. All you need to do is use a can bus opto isolator.
That would be the easiest for sure but I've looked into that but it's not as easy as it seems. I can't seem to find a simple and small CAN to CAN optoisolated converter which would fit into the flatpack S.
I'm not sure there are any CAN to CAN isolators. I've only seen isolated transceivers such as TI's ISO1050. The irony there is that CAN is supposed to be a shared bus now your microcontroller needs two separate CAN controllers. Still worth trying to monitor all the flatpacks IMHO even though they should have the same current passing through them.
-
since you're doing all this work anyway, you might as well talk to the higher power supplies as well. All you need to do is use a can bus opto isolator.
That would be the easiest for sure but I've looked into that but it's not as easy as it seems. I can't seem to find a simple and small CAN to CAN optoisolated converter which would fit into the flatpack S.
I'm not sure there are any CAN to CAN isolators. I've only seen isolated transceivers such as TI's ISO1050. The irony there is that CAN is supposed to be a shared bus now your microcontroller needs two separate CAN controllers. Still worth trying to monitor all the flatpacks IMHO even though they should have the same current passing through them.
I know there are a ton of Bi-directional I²C Isolator chips... I might be assuming too much, but I would think they would work perfectly for this too.
-
You'd need to use an isolated ground, otherwise there would be short and expensive fireworks ;) Since CAN is a simple serial protocol it could be done but would need some carefull engineering...
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I was a week offline becourse of work. But holymoly.. an SMS service Remmie :o All such perfect good improvements.. Wow.
I'm gonna spend the next day's working on my double set of Eltek FP2k's and building a case around it. So I can leave it next to my bike while charging. Also in the rain and yes, its vented! 8)
[edit] the only (quite bulky) CAN isolator I found was here: http://ems-wuensche.com/product/datasheet/html/can-repeater-error-suppression-optical-isolation-crepopto.html (http://ems-wuensche.com/product/datasheet/html/can-repeater-error-suppression-optical-isolation-crepopto.html)]
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14638644/FP2kProgress.jpg)
-
Anybody interested in Flatpack S 1800W?
We could get them directly from Eltek Germany for a price of 280€ each. Still expensive, but cheaper than the else quoted 360€.
The price is only valid if at least 20 Flatpacks are bought. So far we have (outside of this forum) eight, so we would need another 12 for this to happen.
-
Guten Tag, Neuer,
I may be interested in 2 pieces :-)
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Great, put me on the list for 4!
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Great, so we already have 6. So we just need another six. ☺ï¸
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4 for me then! That's awesome!
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Great, so two more to go. :)
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I can report further on the specs of the flatpacks. The specsheet says „Hot plug-in inrush current limiting“ and „Short circuit proof“. I asked Eltek about max current in the case of shortcut (i.e. connecting with the capacitors of the controller not precharged yet). They told me it will be limited to max 105%, which would be less than 44A in case of the 2kW Unit.
Conclusion regarding everything I know and asked them so far: The flatpacks are some incredibly good rectifiers, which is likely a result of the high quality standards in telecommunication industry and the reliability necessary for constant use even under bad circumstances.
Apart from faults due to human errors, i.e. a wrong wiring, I consider the flatpacks a safe charging solution which will not harm our bikes even in case of an opening contactor or other events. It will not damage any components nor will it blow up the charge fuse.
Furthermore I can report that a set of two flatpacks is the limit for a FXS and that the app is apparently not reporting the full charge current, actual current seems to be a little bit higher. Had the opportunity to look into both of my BMS, they reported a historic max charge current of 25,6 and 24,8 A, which is pretty close to the limit set to 26A ;-) Don't know if there's still any tolerance.
I think this might be the case due to slight imbalance in between the two packs, so one gets a little more current than the other. Calculated total amperage would be 41.7 of the flatpacks and 6.2 of the onboard, so basically 48A in total, which would equal to 24A for each pack.
So this weekend i connected the canbus connections of the 2 "bottom" flatpacks together to be able to read-out and control the current of both sets of flatpacks.
The good news is that it is no problem connecting those 2 canbusses without blowing anything up (so far) 8)
This way i can read out both "bottom" flatpacks and show the data on the tiny oled screen in one of them.
Great to hear that this works as expected 😊 And concerning the additional SMS module and your PID programming…you’re insane, but in a positive way! 😃
What I still don’t understand: Why didn’t you notice the lack of amperage control in lower voltages before? Did you never make use of it so far? Could actually see the same behavior on my flatpacks now.
I was a week offline becourse of work. But holymoly.. an SMS service Remmie :o All such perfect good improvements.. Wow.
I'm gonna spend the next day's working on my double set of Eltek FP2k's and building a case around it. So I can leave it next to my bike while charging. Also in the rain and yes, its vented! 8)
Very interested in this, have been thinking about a good solution for a while. So far I’m using some plastic bags, which works but looks very bad :D
We could get them directly from Eltek Germany for a price of 280€ each. Still expensive, but cheaper than the else quoted 360€.
The price is only valid if at least 20 Flatpacks are bought. So far we have (outside of this forum) eight, so we would need another 12 for this to happen.
I asked for a quote as well, let’s see what they offer to me 😉 I might want to buy some as well, but not sure if and how many yet. I’ll know it in a week or so.
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I asked for a quote as well, let’s see what they offer to me 😉 I might want to buy some as well, but not sure if and how many yet. I’ll know it in a week or so.
Just to clarify: The group buy I was offering is the one from Merlin on Endless-Sphere (the one you got your Flatpaks from). I had been in talks with him, as I was more interested in a Flatpak S (because it fits so nicely into the "frunk") than in the Flatpak 2HE (although he really has a great price for the 2HEs).
He told me that he got 6 people interested on endless-sphere so far, but needs at least 20 to get the deal with Eltek.
So, let's see, if you can get a better deal than he. But he has a good track record from Eltek (e.g. the 50 HEs he got and sold), so I'd be a bit surprised if you really get a better deal.
Anyway, we just need to get the number of 20 together. Then, we can still see which offer is the best. So, how many do you want to take?:D
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I was a week offline becourse of work. But holymoly.. an SMS service Remmie :o All such perfect good improvements.. Wow.
I'm gonna spend the next day's working on my double set of Eltek FP2k's and building a case around it. So I can leave it next to my bike while charging. Also in the rain and yes, its vented! 8)
Very interested in this, have been thinking about a good solution for a while. So far I’m using some plastic bags, which works but looks very bad :D
I've been experimenting with a few setups and this seems now to be a good working one:
Its accepts 3 phases, in the charger fase 1 is fed through to an external wire to power the onboard, phase 2 and 3 are the Eltek's.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14638644/Eltek2kProtoCase.jpg)
Case is made of 5mm polyetheen, was easy and cheap to order the pre-cut pieces. Only needed to screw and glue the parts together. When charging at full power, the top get quite hot, maybe I change this to an laser cut aluminium piece. On top is also a window for the LCD and the arduinuino sits in front of the flatpacks. On the right hand side is a button to change the charge Amps. The case has alsready withstand some unplanned showers here, but all was good and the interior was still dry :-)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14638644/Eltek2kProtoCase3D.png)
As you can see I use a differtent type of Anderson here. Mainly to make it easy for myself and not to have crouch each time under the bike to search for the brown connector. I made a short adapter Brown Anderson > Blue Anderson wich stays in the bike and I have heat shrinked the Brown connector to the bike. So its really european weather style :P
Other advantage is that for this blue Anderson a rubber environmental protection boot is available (not available for the brown version) So this is also shower proof and it really fits nice in its small space here. I still have to tape in the wires though, so that they are nice and matte black.
I found this side of the bike easier to access, maybe I move the 230V inlet also to this side one day..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14638644/AndersonBootLocation.jpg)
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Great, so two more to go. :)
4 for me.
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And 4 for me, please!
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Sounds like a lot of potential supercharger builders out there ;)
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Sounds like a lot of potential supercharger builders out there ;)
Which means the wiki should say something about this, just for quality's sake. I'm super busy right now but will try to herd this info soon.
Per my usual advice for the knowledgeable guys starting this project: try to write everything out. I think the base skills and tools for crimping and so on should be explicitly called out so we don't get someone bricking their bike or damaging the equipment or themselves!
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I've been poking around with my Flatpack2 HE but not really got started on a build yet.
Does anyone know what the third contact with the CAN H and CAN L is? I've stuck a 'scope on it but can't tell what it is.
I assume that when taking 12V from the fan that you also need to take the corresponding ground and link this to the - output. The fan supply seems to be isolated from the main output and this ties it back in. I know this will work, but I'm sure there must be a more suitable 5V somewhere to go with the CAN bus. It's just a pain to find with all that varnish all over everything.
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CAN H & CAN L are balanced or symmetrical signals, but they are not floating. Always referenced to GND, the third wire.
hub
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Aloha guys,
its me, the FPS guy :D
everything is dry now....
as some guys from this forum told me 14 defintily buying guys are on board with this buy i had a talk with my eltek contact.
they need 10 working days for delivery.
I did a bunch of Groupbuys allready. Including 45 Big Hub Motors from China FOB. So it helps me when you just send me details on this template below without questions.
For questions please write another PM
Please everyone who is in, contact me by PM here and fill out this template:
Please name your INFO PM SUBJECT: ELTEK FPS GROUPBUY INFO
NAME:
ADDRESS:
COUNTRY:
HOW MANY PIECES:
TELEPHON:
EMAIL:
I will answer with a default Template about Payment and Contact Infos from me.
cheers,
Andi /Aka Merlin from Endless-Sphere
EDIT:
PAYMENT RECIEVED:
4 Available
-0 CAMA ---PAID---but dont want anymore
-4 wijnand71 ---PAID---
-2 Hubert ---PAID---
-2 Neuer_User ---PAID---
-4 George Cowly ---PAID---
-2 Skidz ---PAID---
-2 winfried
-
So I did it,
paid 1.135 € via PayPal for four flatpacks S 1.800 (4*280 = 1.120 €) and delivery in Europe (+ 15 €).
Andi aka Merlin from Endless-Sphere or here Ciscone is an experienced group buyer.
So let's keep up the speed ... the weather here in Germany is already Zero friendly ;-)
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Aloha guys,
its me, the FPS guy :D
everything is dry now....
as some guys from this forum told me 14 defintily buying guys are on board with this buy i had a talk with my eltek contact.
they need 10 working days for delivery.
I did a bunch of Groupbuys allready. Including 45 Big Hub Motors from China FOB. So it helps me when you just send me details on this template below without questions.
For questions please write another PM
Please everyone who is in, contact me by PM here and fill out this template:
Please name your INFO PM SUBJECT: ELTEK FPS GROUPBUY INFO
NAME:
ADDRESS:
COUNTRY:
HOW MANY PIECES:
TELEPHON:
EMAIL:
I will answer with a default Template about Payment and Contact Infos from me.
cheers,
Andi /Aka Merlin from Endless-Sphere
Great,. I am so happy that it worked out. Gonna send you my details via PM and the money via PayPal fro two flatpaks. :)
Now I indeed hope that people with experience can help a bit with tips & tricks (see also the other thread about the connector).
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Has someone made a good quality PCB connector board for these Flatpack S models?
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On this page Merlin has some..
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1221094#p1221094
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Thanks but that page has connectors for the Eltek FP2 2000 rectifiers. I understand that the Flatpack S have a different interface at the back and will require a different PCB connector.
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Not sure about any differences, can't find any online info about the connector sizing. Just sent Merlin/ Ciscone a PM.
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There's a big difference between connector of the Flatpack 2 HE 2000 and the Flatpack S 1800. The FPS is much smaller and the + and - output is reversed (ask me how I know 8) )
EDIT : the connectors look very similar in width and position of the contacts.
In this thread on endless sphere a guy has made a board for the Flatpack S
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=71139&hilit=ultra&start=175#p1270667 (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=71139&hilit=ultra&start=175#p1270667)
the chargers in this picture is definitely a flatpack S 1800 W
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Ah, crap. But it seems too big for my plans. Anyway, I have to wait till my Flatpacks arrive, then I will create a very slim adapter/breakout for it.
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I stand corrected. I posted the last message that the connectors are very different from my memory because the width of the 2 flatpacks is very different.
I still have 1 FP2HE and comparing that to the FPS the connectors seem to be very similar ! I'll post a photo of them side by side later
I do however know for sure that the + and - DC outputs are reversed. The CAN connections appear to be on the same position.
So take care when using a board which is made for the FP2HE and has markings for + and - output. MEASURE which is the + and which is the -
Sorry about the confusion :-[
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In this thread on endless sphere a guy has made a board for the Flatpack S
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=71139&hilit=ultra&start=175#p1270667 (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=71139&hilit=ultra&start=175#p1270667)
the chargers in this picture is definitely a flatpack S 1800 W
Ah that's my old board. I was asked if I could make the board public. It was the first one I made for testing so things are a lot more spaced out and with bigger holes. I do have a stubby version but I didn't like it as much cause it would be hard to disconnect quickly. The board has two holes for each connection so you can connect between the two FPS.
Remmie is correct, the FPS and FP2HE are a bit different.
Be safe and have fun!
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Uffz, done. Took me a huge fight with PayPal for their payment fees, so in the end I used bank transfer. Money should be on your account in 2-3 days.
Looking forward to my supercharger :) I already got the arduino, the Mennekes plug, and the zero connector. Still need some other small stuff, but slowly it will move forward :D
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bank transfer done as well. In case of SEPA € to €, paypal only makes additional complexity and delays, and possibly fees.
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bank transfer done as well. In case of SEPA € to €, paypal only makes additional complexity and delays, and possibly fees.
Yeah, they were asking 5% for "Family and Friends". Incredible. Bank transfer costs me 20¢.
Not sure about the delays, though. I understand that the info that payment has been made is instanteneous with PayPal. So, faster than bank transfer.
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Just payed 575 via PayPal for 2 units and shipping...
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updated my Post....
for now 2 psu are available. i will ask to get more on the same delivery.
i think i jump also in :D
tiny nice pieces and since iam looking for a zero this summer shouldnt be a nice deal for a supercharger.
so please update your superchargers here :D
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updated my Post....
for now 2 psu are available. i will ask to get more on the same delivery.
i think i jump also in :D
tiny nice pieces and since iam looking for a zero this summer shouldnt be a nice deal for a supercharger.
so please update your superchargers here :D
Thanks a lot.
Any chance to get a suitable board for the fps? Would make it easier to connect them.
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Just clicked some connecting materials in basket, the SBX for the aux port and some C19 chassis /C20 cable parts for dynamically connecting the charger pair. My idea is to use the charge tank together with a pair of FPS'ses and to throw the charging stuff in the top case. I'll be adding a small junction box with male Mennekes input and a 2 meter J1772 female connector, and hook up the Elteks to L2 of the Mennekes via the C19 connectors. I'd like the setup to be future-proof in case I'll add two more Elteks, so I guess I need about 16mm2 cable for the aux connector. Then I'd just route the DC cable to my top box somewhat hidden.
If I'd connect the sense from the J1772 to the sense of the Mennekes, would the charge station be inclined to go charge at 3phase 16a? Anybody have experience with that?
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Are there 2 more available ?
would Take them.
Gesendet von meinem S60 mit Tapatalk
-
Please everyone who is in, contact me by PM here and fill out this template:
Please name your INFO PM SUBJECT: ELTEK FPS GROUPBUY INFO
NAME:
ADDRESS:
COUNTRY:
HOW MANY PIECES:
TELEPHON:
EMAIL:
I will answer with a default Template about Payment and Contact Infos from me.
cheers,
Andi /Aka Merlin from Endless-Sphere
EDIT:
PAYMENT RECIEVED:
2 Available
-4 CAMA ---PAID---
-4 wijnand71 ---PAID---
-2 Hubert ---PAID---
-2 Neuer_User ---PAID---
-4 George Cowly ---PAID---
-2 Skidz ---PAID---
Yes, minimum 2 are available.
a bit lazy my eltek guy, iam still waiting of an answer to get 10 more on same delivery.
so for now are 2 available winfried.
just fill out the template i have quoted and send me a pm.
-Andi
-
atm i have no PCB.
but when i have it on my table iam also interested in the clean plug n play version. but it will take time.
as i read here its needed as small and short as possible to fit the tank.
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I have added code to implement 2 independent PID controllers, 1 for each set of flatpacks. Unfortunately that cannot work. This is because the message to control the output current and voltage is a broadcast to all connected flatpacks. a message to a single flatpack does not work. The flatpacks are usually only connected in parallel (not in series) so this makes sort of sense for their intended purpose.
I chose to see what would happen if i just use a single PID controller which would control the current of one of the two sets and see what the other set would do.
The very good news is that the second set of flatpacks very closely follows the current of the first (controlled) set of flatpacks. It is at most about 0,5 to 1 amp less and often exactly the same.
This obviously saves a PID controller or even a completely new arduino. For the above to work it is very important that the 2 "top" flatpacks are set to the same voltage, otherwise this doesn't work properly. The 2 "top" flatpacks are not monitored and are set to 57.0 Volts with a short walkin (after powerup the unit reaches this 57.0 volt in about 5 seconds).
Tried the PID version with my two flatpacks yesterday, indeed it's working absolutely great. I'll use it to differ in between 1-phase charging (max. 3kW) and 3-phase charging with full power. Started at about 30% SOC, maintained 20A like a charm. Thanks for your work remmie! Just one thing about the code extracted from the forum: it contains some weird signs, which are not visible in the IDE but result in compiling errors, you can see them in Word if you copy the code in there. Cleaned in manually then. Should we put up a GitHub repository to improve this and manage different code versions? If you're ok with that, I would open one.
One question concerning the non-monitored top flatpacks. Can the walk in period be set permanently? For permanent setting, I always used this code so far:
unsigned char setVpermanent[5] = {0x29, 0x15, 0x00, 0x44, 0x16};
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05019C00, 1, 5, setVpermanent)
So where's the option which determines the walk-in period?
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...Should we put up a GitHub repository to improve this and manage different code versions? If you're ok with that, I would open one....
@remmie have a look at: https://github.com/zero-motorcycle-community and welcome to contribute there.
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...Should we put up a GitHub repository to improve this and manage different code versions? If you're ok with that, I would open one....
@remmie have a look at: https://github.com/zero-motorcycle-community and welcome to contribute there.
I actually set up a open repo with the posted code from remmie and some I other Infos I found so far (https://gitlab.com/Neuer_User/Zero-Supercharger), but I'm very happy to move instead to your repo.
The only important thing is to have a single place with access for all to store code and wiki.
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Bam, the DC and some AC connectors made their way to the Netherlands in an impressive 4 days! All i need now is a J1772, a Mennekes, 5 metres of cable and I can start building my custom chargecable. All that's left is two powersupplies and an Arduino but how hard can that be ;)
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A J1772 in the Netherlands?
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Yups, the charge tank connects to a public charge point with a female Yazaki J1772 connector. The other side has a Mennekes female.
The default cable looks like this: (https://www.evcompany.eu/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/laadkabel-site.jpg)
What i'd like to make is a cable similar to this, but with a box in between so I can tap off the unused phases of the Mennekes connector to the FPS'ses. So I'll need a Mennekes connector, 4 metres of 5x2,5mm2 cable, a box, two female C19 chassis parts, 1.5 meter 4x2,5mm2 and a J1772 female plug. Then I'd just connect N + L1 + CS + PE from the Mennekes to the J1772, and connect N + L2 + PE to C19 #1 and N + L3 + PE to C19 #2. When the charge tank then starts the charge by signalling it's ready, the other two phases should also kick in and the ramp-up of the FPS'ses should take place after the charge tank closes the charging contact.
Untill the FPS'ses arive I'll make the box and check at a public point if the two extra phases are available after the chargetank initiates charging...
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Any news on the group buy, @Ciscone?
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Not yet, asked about and got lazy Answer: Status: Pending.
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quick info for you guys.
had another call some minutes ago (because it feels like a prank in the meantime)
ill call them every 2-3 days and get alot of blabla.
they switched beginning this year to SAP and had alot delay in their "management" + orders.
blablabla...
to make it short, my contact is waiting for a "debitor" number for me that he can give out the psu to me.
all i can say is sorry for the delay guys. 60 miles away from my home is a big dark storage room and there are waiting tiny little powerfull playtoys for us :P
btw: shut up and take my money doesnt worked here ;D
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Hey Ciscone,
Lolled at the shut up part ;)
Thanks for the heads up, all the other stuff for this project is dripping in so I am soon ready for the PSU's ;)
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Well, I've built my box, and it's almost ready for testing. All I need is a 680 Ohm resistor, which somehow is nowhere to be found on my E24-reel :P
(http://www.mijnzero.nl/IMG_20170401_192053-768x576.jpg)
On the EVSE part it's a Mennekes 3-phase connector, connected to the box with 5x2,5+2x0,5 cable. The box then passes L1, N, PE and CP through to the J1772 connector on the other end. The box in between taps off L2/N/PE to the left C19 connector and L3/N/PE to the right C19 connector.
I also soldered the SBX connector to the battery cable (A slight overkill, with 16mm2) and began testing with the Arduino Leonardo CAN...
All that's missing now, is the flatpacks. And the resistor of course but I imagine that's easier to fix than the flatpacks ;)
**Small update:
Checked the specs, and apparently the lower the value the more current is requested by the charger. 220 Ohm requests 32 amps, but the ppm duty cycle of the CP signal tells the charger how much it can actually charge. So I put two 120 Ohm resistors in serie that I had laying around, getting 240 Ohm. Best case it signals 32A which I'll never use on a single phase, worst case it takes one step lower at 20A which is enough for my max 4kW per phase...
I'll test as soon as I have time, which I seem to have less and less of these days...
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Just tested the junction box, and all works as advertised :D
(http://www.mijnzero.nl/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/IMG_20170405_195046-768x576.jpg)
Used a light bulb to test the C19's, and it lit on both phases.
Quick question: Is the charge fuse of 100Amps just connected to the aux Anderson, or is it also in the circuit with the onboard charger? I am wondering since at full power the current should be around 75 amps when the flatpacks arrive, so I theoretically would blow the charge fuse if I were to add two more flatpacks... Unless the onboard + charge tank are on another circuit of course. Then I could add another 3,6kW without worrying if the fuse would blow.
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Don't forget that the Anderson connector pins are rated at 110A, and it is advisable to keep some margin.... This connector is only intended to add the "official" external chargers, max 4x1kW!!
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Quick question: Is the charge fuse of 100Amps just connected to the aux Anderson, or is it also in the circuit with the onboard charger?
Both the onboard charger current and the aux charge port current are running through the charge fuse, so you'll need a direct controller connection to avoid blowing it when using another pair of flatpacks. But actually the fuse is quite slow, so it'll hold quite some time with a current of 110 or 120A. (I checked the fuse diagrams a while ago)
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Hmm, any news on the group buy?
I'm getting a bit disappointed as it was originally said, it takes about 1-2 weeks, now we are more than a month and so far no news :(
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Yeah @Ciscone, any news from Eltek yet? My setup is ready for some sweet high speed chargin' lovin' ;)
I decided not to go overboard and won't order two more flatpacks. If I'd add two more, the charge current max would be something in the neighbourhood of 120 amps for about 40 minutes, and blowing a fuse when you're out and about somewhere doesn't fit in the relaxed things category ;)
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Watch out with blowing the fuse, especially on low SoC because the amperage will be higher. I've managed to blow one with my Chademo setup that was capped at 8,5kW.
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@Ciscone: Any news yet? Last post was march 29th :P
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hey guys,
yes there are news.... got mail yesterday:
Hallo Herr xxxxxxx,
wir haben es nach einiger Verzögerung geschafft den Auftrag im SAP anzulegen. Lieferung eintreffend 21.04.2017.
Wir wünschen frohe Ostern !
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
ELTEK DEUTSCHLAND GMBH
Julia Wienberg
Auftragsabwicklung
for english people....
Delivery to me is 21.4. .....so in one week i can start to send out your playtoys.
probably 2 more are available. one guy send me an message that he dont want to wait anymore. i send him the info that they are now one week away (awaiting answer)
so if anyone is interessted....let me know...
:D
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Hey Ciscone,
Great news! Let's hope you'll sell the other two as well... If the charge fuse was larger I'd buy them...
Thanks!
Ton.
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Hi guys,
it all looks very exciting and interesting. It is close to what I am looking for for my Zero S 11.4 2014.
Does it fit under the 'tank'?
Is it possible to see a homemade 'Supercharger' somewhere in the Netherlands?
@Skidz : do you have the working prototype version 2?
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Hi Forestlane,
I'm waiting for the Flatpack's to arrive, the guy that's arranging the group buy (Ciscone) should get them in a week. After that it's a matter of programming them to the right output voltage and my setup is finished. If all goes reasonably fast then the charger should be ready in 2-3 weeks.
Remmie1972 and Erasmo have a working V2 as far as I know of in the Netherlands. The only difference between their setup and mine is that i'm also using the chargetank for an additional 3.8kW of charging. I'm located near Leiden, and as far as I can tell Remmie and Erasmo are somewhere east of Utrecht I believe.
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Aloha guys,
its me, the FPS guy :D
everything is dry now....
as some guys from this forum told me 14 defintily buying guys are on board with this buy i had a talk with my eltek contact.
they need 10 working days for delivery.
I did a bunch of Groupbuys allready. Including 45 Big Hub Motors from China FOB. So it helps me when you just send me details on this template below without questions.
For questions please write another PM
Please everyone who is in, contact me by PM here and fill out this template:
Please name your INFO PM SUBJECT: ELTEK FPS GROUPBUY INFO
NAME:
ADDRESS:
COUNTRY:
HOW MANY PIECES:
TELEPHON:
EMAIL:
I will answer with a default Template about Payment and Contact Infos from me.
cheers,
Andi /Aka Merlin from Endless-Sphere
EDIT:
PAYMENT RECIEVED:
4 Available
-0 CAMA ---PAID---but dont want anymore
-4 wijnand71 ---PAID---
-2 Hubert ---PAID---
-2 Neuer_User ---PAID---
-4 George Cowly ---PAID---
-2 Skidz ---PAID---
-2 winfried
winfried jumped in....cama jumps out.
so 4 more available now....
-
Hey guys,
:)iam new in the forum but was reading your threads with interrest for a while. At this point thank for sharing your
knowledge and skills with us other users.
I like the idea of charging faster and decided to build up a pack of 2 FP2 HE .
At the moment have nearly the whole stuff i need to start but now I have some further questions I hope you can help me.
The schottky diodes Remmie placed across the DC output to protect reverse current dont they get hot under power and do they have to be cooled? If yes did Remmie solved this by placing them into the housing /against the housing and into the stream of the internal fan? Do I have an option to place them without opening the housing perhaps on the pcb board?
thank you and enjoy sunday
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*arrived*
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AqElz-HgG8aHiS3l6kGsKw3ySDfO
will ship out in the next days :D
did anyone have a working PCB Adapter allready? If not, i can probably make some.
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@Ciscone: Great news! I'll solder the last connections tonight then, can't wait :D I have ordered and recieved these PCB's: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/MAR7Pmnx which seem to be for the FP-S power supplies.
Next up, I'll have to figure out the serial numbers of the PSU's so I can program them to 57,6V and then the fun begins :)
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atm i have these:
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AqElz-HgG8aHiTFHUdYVE0P8LV02
but could be shorten them to the max/minimum if theres a need here.
-
*arrived*
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AqElz-HgG8aHiS3l6kGsKw3ySDfO
will ship out in the next days :D
did anyone have a working PCB Adapter allready? If not, i can probably make some.
Great news. Really looking forward to it. Got the Mennekes plug, the Leonardo, quite some cables (but probably still missing some), so am close to start working on it.
Any yes, I would be very much interested in the PCB adapters.
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Weird, polarity looks reversed on your or my PCB's... Are yours for the FP-S specifically? Otherwise I might have the wrong PCB's...
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These adapter are for the flat pack 2... Not for the fps.
They fit and you could use the pinout as you like but it was only for demo view.
Thought I read here that it would be very tight fit in the zero and if we do a new layout of the pcb we could make it short as possible.
Emailed eltek about the pin out to be 100 percent safe
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The flatpack S and flatpack 2HE have reversed DC outputs. The flatpack S has the DC+ on the outtside. Other than that the connectors look tge same.
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Ah, so mine are OK then ;)
Anyway, since my PSU's go in my case I have no need for shorter ones...
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*confirmed*
FP2 / FPS reversed DC Out :D
did a quick charge now. It pushes 34amps without "orange LED".
1750w in my Display included all losses.
FP2 HE does 1850w. So only 100w more.
Difference? Of course 2Kg vs 860g + way smaller.
Great tiny charger :D
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Hey Ciscone, stop teasing us ;)
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:D
video of charging:
Charing 34A // 1750w (https://1drv.ms/v/s!AqElz-HgG8aHiTPy2qUpupebCU9e)
(http://185.25.48.125/es/eltek_fps/20170426_141822.jpg)
(http://185.25.48.125/es/eltek_fps/20170426_141851.jpg)
(http://185.25.48.125/es/eltek_fps/20170426_142013.jpg)
(http://185.25.48.125/es/eltek_fps/20170426_142117.jpg)
(http://185.25.48.125/es/eltek_fps/20170426_142224.jpg)
Guys let me know if you WANT a PCB like that on my pics.
each is 15€ and i could ship it with your psus.
no answer -> i will ship out to your Address you gave me.
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Thanks,
take 2 of the PCB Adapter for my elteks.
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I would also be interested to take two, but does the charger still fit into the "frunk" with these PCBs or do we need to have shorter ones?
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2 for me please also! :-)
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Here's the first half of the code i have now due to a 20000 character limit of the forum
// from rectifier : (requests for logins)
// 05014400 + ser nr + 00 00 from rectifier : HELLOOW where are you ! rectifier sends 05014400 and 6 bytes serial number and followed by 00 00 (login request)
// 0500xxyy + 1B + ser nr + 00 is send during normal voltage every second. xxyy is the last 2 bytes from the serial number
// after either of these send 05004804 every 5 seconds ! to keep logged in. rectifier does not send login requests so after 10 second the numbers stop until 05014400 is sent
// from rectifier : (status messages)
// 0501400C + status data : walkin and below 43 volts (error) and during walk-out (input voltage low)
// 05014010 + status data : walkin busy
// 05014004 + status data : normal voltage reached
// 05014008 + status data : current-limiting active
// send TO rectifier (act as controller)
// 05004804 + ser nr + 00 00 from controller : send 05004804 and 6 bytes ser number followed by 00 00
// 05FF4004 controller sends current and voltage limits (last 4 is 5 sec walk-in, for 60 second walk-in use 05FF4005)
// 05FF4005 controller sends current and voltage limits (last 5 is 60 sec walk-in, for 5 second walk-in use 05FF4004)
// PID settings of 0.5 , 0.5 and 0.0 work excellent. Nice and slow buildup of voltage and current
#include <mcp_can.h> // library for CANBUS
#include <mcp_can_dfs.h> // library for CANBUS
#include <SPI.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <HT_SSD1306.h> // library for oled display
#include <SoftwareSerial.h> // library for SMS module
#include <PID_v1.h> // library for PID controller(s)
#define PIN_RESET 9 // Connect RST of oled display to pin 9
#define PIN_DC 10 // Connect DC of oled display to pin 8
#define PIN_CS 11 // Connect CS of oled display to pin 10
#define SIM800_TX_PIN 4 // Connect TX pin of SMS module to pin 4
#define SIM800_RX_PIN 5 // Connect RX pin of SMS module to pin 5
#define currentstep 50 // each press on the button is 10 amps more (divide by 10)
#define amphours 91 // amphours of my Zero SR 2014 (adjust [...]
break;
Which PID library did you use? This one: http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/PIDLibrary (http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/PIDLibrary) ?
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in the arduino editor i selected "sketch" in the menu, then "use libraries" and "manage libraries"
in the librarymanager you can search for "PID" and then select "PID by Brett Beauregard". Doubleclick to install this library
it could be the names of the menus are a bit different, I translated them from Dutch.
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This morning I replied via PM to Ciscone about the PCB. In order to fit in the area below the tankpouch the PCB needs to be as short as possible. Every mm counts here. Hopefully he's willing to create a v2 of his PCB. let's see.
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The ones I ordered from OSPark are 35.6mm long, and with some carefull cutting they could be as short as 18mm... You'd have to remove some masking from them to make soldering possible, but they can be shortened.
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in the arduino editor i selected "sketch" in the menu, then "use libraries" and "manage libraries"
in the librarymanager you can search for "PID" and then select "PID by Brett Beauregard". Doubleclick to install this library
it could be the names of the menus are a bit different, I translated them from Dutch.
Well, my editor does not show that library, but I verified it seems to be the same as the one in my link.
Is the code still the most current? As there seems to be no open github repo so far, I am still using the one on my repo (https://gitlab.com/Neuer_User/Zero-Supercharger).
What did you finally use to power the leonardo? A 116->5V step-down regulator? And what did you use for the display? Another 116->3.3V or a 5->3.3V?
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If i were to be adding a Leonardo for monitoring purposes, I'd be using a 230VAC to 5v psu. These can be really small, and a lot less expensive than a 116vdc>5vdc or 60vdc>5vdc unit. And when charging you'll have 230v on the rectifier anyway...
Some of the oled displays accept both 5 and 3.3v for logic and supply, so if you'd source your display to be one of those then you won't need a 3.3v...
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If i were to be adding a Leonardo for monitoring purposes, I'd be using a 230VAC to 5v psu. These can be really small, and a lot less expensive than a 116vdc>5vdc or 60vdc>5vdc unit. And when charging you'll have 230v on the rectifier anyway...
Some of the oled displays accept both 5 and 3.3v for logic and supply, so if you'd source your display to be one of those then you won't need a 3.3v...
Hmm, good idea. I think the display that remmie mentioned and which I got only works with 3.3V, but I could get another one which does work with 5V. So only one psu 230->5V needed. :)
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I have a bunch of Honeywell 230VAC>5VDC laying around, they might even work off 116VDC since they are switching PSU's anyway. Cost like 4 euro's.
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in the arduino editor i selected "sketch" in the menu, then "use libraries" and "manage libraries"
in the librarymanager you can search for "PID" and then select "PID by Brett Beauregard". Doubleclick to install this library
it could be the names of the menus are a bit different, I translated them from Dutch.
Well, my editor does not show that library, but I verified it seems to be the same as the one in my link.
Is the code still the most current? As there seems to be no open github repo so far, I am still using the one on my repo (https://gitlab.com/Neuer_User/Zero-Supercharger).
What did you finally use to power the leonardo? A 116->5V step-down regulator? And what did you use for the display? Another 116->3.3V or a 5->3.3V?
I have no experience with github. The code is still current though.
I powered the leonardo from a 75V (36-75V input) to 5V dcdc converter powered from the output voltage because i mounted the display inside one of the flatpacks (BIG JOB). Like the others suggested it is easiest to use a 230 => 5V converter. That way the leonardo gets power even sooner because it does not have to wait for the 48V to be suppled (which takes a second or 2)
The power for the OLED display is taken from the 5V supply using 2 diodes in series, each inducing a 0.7V drop. That gets the voltage to 3.6V which seems fine for the display It's a crude way but it works and takes very little space. The inputs to the display seem to be 5V tolerant but you can use resistors in series to be sure (1kohm should suffice)
-
in the arduino editor i selected "sketch" in the menu, then "use libraries" and "manage libraries"
in the librarymanager you can search for "PID" and then select "PID by Brett Beauregard". Doubleclick to install this library
it could be the names of the menus are a bit different, I translated them from Dutch.
Well, my editor does not show that library, but I verified it seems to be the same as the one in my link.
Is the code still the most current? As there seems to be no open github repo so far, I am still using the one on my repo (https://gitlab.com/Neuer_User/Zero-Supercharger).
What did you finally use to power the leonardo? A 116->5V step-down regulator? And what did you use for the display? Another 116->3.3V or a 5->3.3V?
I have no experience with github. The code is still current though.
I powered the leonardo from a 75V (36-75V input) to 5V dcdc converter powered from the output voltage because i mounted the display inside one of the flatpacks (BIG JOB). Like the others suggested it is easiest to use a 230 => 5V converter. That way the leonardo gets power even sooner because it does not have to wait for the 48V to be suppled (which takes a second or 2)
The power for the OLED display is taken from the 5V supply using 2 diodes in series, each inducing a 0.7V drop. That gets the voltage to 3.6V which seems fine for the display It's a crude way but it works and takes very little space. The inputs to the display seem to be 5V tolerant but you can use resistors in series to be sure (1kohm should suffice)
Thanks, I will keep my repo open, so we can use this to update the code when needed, if you wish.
I probably keep the display outside, as I would not date to mount it inside. So, I will have the 230V->5V converter, the leonardo and the display in an external case. I probably take a 5V display. There are actually quite a lot available that look beautiful and cost only few dollars more than the OLED.
Do you guys prefer to use the PCB to connect to the Elteks or is directly soldering the cables better?
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I have a bunch of Honeywell 230VAC>5VDC laying around, they might even work off 116VDC since they are switching PSU's anyway. Cost like 4 euro's.
Those might be more reliable, but I'm using this one for quite a while now: https://www.banggood.com/5V-700mA-3_5W-AC-DC-Step-Down-Isolated-Switching-Power-Supply-Module-p-993723.html (https://www.banggood.com/5V-700mA-3_5W-AC-DC-Step-Down-Isolated-Switching-Power-Supply-Module-p-993723.html)
Very cheap and works fine so far.
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This morning I replied via PM to Ciscone about the PCB. In order to fit in the area below the tankpouch the PCB needs to be as short as possible. Every mm counts here. Hopefully he's willing to create a v2 of his PCB. let's see.
this one looks to be quite short and not too expensive (18 euros)
https://www.batrium.com/products/pcbs-for-eltek-flatpack2 (https://www.batrium.com/products/pcbs-for-eltek-flatpack2)
https://www.batrium.com/pages/how-to-control-a-eltek-flatpack2-with-watchmon (https://www.batrium.com/pages/how-to-control-a-eltek-flatpack2-with-watchmon)
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1784/7177/products/Eltek_PCB_20170221_212527_1024x1024.jpg?v=1489962145)
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1784/7177/files/Eltek_assembled_2_large.jpg?v=1490074744)
looks like the website of EVTRICITY who's advertising complete chargers using Emerson PSU's here on EMF
Good to see multiple choices in (DIY) fast charging
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Eh, CAN bus seems to break out only CAN_H and GND, not CAN_L.... Shouldn't all three be connected?
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Eh, CAN bus seems to break out only CAN_H and GND, not CAN_L.... Shouldn't all three be connected?
Looks like only CAN_L and CAN_H are broken out, and that should suffice. CAN GND is not really needed (never needed it in my charger)
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Ah ok ;) Well in that case, nice and short solution then ;)
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CAN GND is needed. If your interface works without, that means there is hopefully a GND return somehow through other wires, like common grounding, but this is unreliable, generally speaking. A bit like running IC power lines without decoupling capacitors. It may work sometimes.
Please understand that CAN-H and CAN-L are signals referred to GND. Their opposite phase helps eliminating common mode transients induced in long wiring harnesses. It is not a floating signal going through decoupling transformers.
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Really cool thread. Neat to see just how far people have taken the DIY solution since I posted up a meanwell stack with tons of help from DocBass and team.
I never used CAN signals as the RSP's would simply throttle down as they got to the set voltage so I didn't think about it as they were set bellow battery max.
Has any consideration been given to condensation or making an enclosure which wouldn't allow water intrusion ?
I still use my RSP2000 stack when at home and when it is nice outside but with my Diginow SCv2 coming soon I likely wont use it given the problem with water / rain / moisture.
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Do you guys crimp or solder the Mennekes plug? The connectors look pretty heavy, so I fear crimping will not be easy. But I'm not so experienced in crimping. Soldering, on the other hand, may damage the black plastic on the end of the connectors, as it needs probably a lot of heat with the large steel areas.
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I clamped the Mennekes pins in a rather large vice, which dissipated the heat from the plastic tip end, and soldered with ~60 watts.
Take care to not forget any of the plastics where the wires have to pass through.... I needed to re-solder a pin because I found out I forgot a retainer somehow :P
Also take note the PE pin has no plastic tip to ensure it gets connected first...
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I clamped the Mennekes pins in a rather large vice, which dissipated the heat from the plastic tip end, and soldered with ~60 watts.
Take care to not forget any of the plastics where the wires have to pass through.... I needed to re-solder a pin because I found out I forgot a retainer somehow [emoji14]
Also take note the PE pin has no plastic tip to ensure it gets connected first...
Good idea. I will emerge the plastic tip into a glass of cold water, while soldering the other side.
Crimping really looks a bit of close to impossible to me without very specialized tools.
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For those who have not purchased their mennekes plug yet and also have trouble getting crimping tools, there are also screw type type 2 plugs available
this one is 3 phase 32A with screw terminals
https://www.laadkabelwinkel.nl/type-2-plug-male-3f32a-schroefbaar (https://www.laadkabelwinkel.nl/type-2-plug-male-3f32a-schroefbaar)
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i have ordered 15 new ones. Same Layout. i need soem also for my FP2.
should arrive this week.
(http://185.25.48.125/es/eltek_fps/2017-04-30_12h25_46.png)
(http://185.25.48.125/es/eltek_fps/2017-04-30_12h26_12.png)
winfried : 2
hubert: 2
neuer_user: 2 ?
please check if this size is ok for you (or not)
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This EVSE thingy might be an interesting addition to everybody's flatpacks: http://www.fivari.be/indexEN.html (http://www.fivari.be/indexEN.html)
I'm considering buying one for trips to less EV-friendly countries.
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I clamped the Mennekes pins in a rather large vice, which dissipated the heat from the plastic tip end, and soldered with ~60 watts.
Take care to not forget any of the plastics where the wires have to pass through.... I needed to re-solder a pin because I found out I forgot a retainer somehow [emoji14]
Also take note the PE pin has no plastic tip to ensure it gets connected first...
Good idea. I will emerge the plastic tip into a glass of cold water, while soldering the other side.
Crimping really looks a bit of close to impossible to me without very specialized tools.
So, that actually worked not too bad. I heated the pins with a heat gun and used in parallel my 35W solder iron. I was able to fill the whole pretty well with solder (and the cable fo course). So, I hope it is sufficient for the high currents.
So, I now have a 3m cable attached to the Mennekes plug, and I wonder if I should shorten it. I don't think it will fit in the "frunk" area?! What length of cable do you guys prefer?
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I used to solder Bullet connectors to my 3 phase motors used in model helicopters, stowing over 250A... I'm not too worried about the measly 20A my Mennekes will push out at 4kW per phase...
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And at what Voltage do those birds fly?
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And at what Voltage do those birds fly?
Probably 10-20V DC, I would guess.
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22.2v and 44.4v (6s to 12s). Especially the low voltage machine used a lot of current... The HV setup ran at a max of 80A. The batteries were DC, but the motor used were brushless AC motors.
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22.2v and 44.4v (6s to 12s). Especially the low voltage machine used a lot of current... The HV setup ran at a max of 80A. The batteries were DC, but the motor used were brushless AC motors.
But only very few seconds at a time.
Charging is 1hour+
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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True, but sustained currents are around 5c which is something like 35 amps for 8-14 minutes. Just saying that the ac part can be soldered, and if you don't trust that you can always screw or crimp it.
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Hey Ciscone, did you ship them yet? Would be nice to finish the project...
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yup. yours is out as you dont need PCBs from me :D
i will send tracking after work.
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Good to hear man! Tracking would be appreciated ;)
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what a fu*** forum ::)
An Error Has Occurred!
You have exceeded the limit of 5 personal messages per hour.
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What a nice forum, you can send 120 PM per day!
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what a fu*** forum ::)
An Error Has Occurred!
You have exceeded the limit of 5 personal messages per hour.
The limit is there to reduce harm from abuse. If you think the limit needs to be changed please make a suggestion of what the limit should be in the EMF FAQ thread:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6690.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6690.0)
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So, I now finished soldering the Mennekes plug. Next time I will clearly get the screw version.
I decided to keep about two meters of cable. Hope the that is long enough for usage and still somehow fits into the frunk. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170503/ec389dc198e6c727da8b5bc877fb7936.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170503/bbef38fbb20ee1d6e45c253159e5b36f.jpg)
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This afternoon there was a package waiting for me, containing two of the smallest 1800w psu's i've ever seen... So now i can start the programming! My setup is complete, all it now needs is some soldering and programming and i can go test! Thanks Ciscone!
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Well, we have another working charger stack. Max power was not reached yet, since one of the rectifiers somehow lost the 57,6v setting reverting back to 54v, but the stack itself performed as expected.
(http://www.mijnzero.nl/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMAGE-2017-05-08-090924.jpg)
This is the stack in action with the PCB's from OSHPark
(http://www.mijnzero.nl/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMAGE-2017-05-08-090926.jpg)
Here you see my 3-phase breakout in action with the charge stack.
(http://www.mijnzero.nl/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMAGE-2017-05-08-112602.jpg)
Total charge power with one of the FPS'ses on 54v is ~6,6kW... Not bad, i think, not bad ;)
Next time I'll hope to hit at least 7,6kW, the projected max charge power of the onboard + chargetank + FPS stack.
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PCBs arrived today.
looks like tomorrow goes all that psu stuff out to you guys :P
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PCBs arrived today.
looks like tomorrow goes all that psu stuff out to you guys [emoji14]
Thanks. Looking forward [emoji3]
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Printed out all DHL Stickers.
All buyers should have an email from me with the TRACKING ID for YOUR Package.
Please check immediately the Address. Tomorrow Highnoon they will be roll out around the World :P
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Perfect!
Thank you so much.
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Just got my chargers ðŸ˜. Thanks, Ciscone ðŸ‘.
@remmie: how did you connect the cables to the chargers? The PCB is nice, but then it no longer fits into the frunk. Did you shower them directly?
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Printed out all DHL Stickers.
All buyers should have an email from me with the TRACKING ID for YOUR Package.
Please check immediately the Address. Tomorrow Highnoon they will be roll out around the World [emoji14]
Short question : did you program the rectifiers to 57.6V? If not, how can we do it?
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Post on the first page of this thread on how i soldered the cables to the Flatpacks :)
How did i do the wiring on the back of the flatpacks? I just stripped the wires about 1 cm, stuck the wire inbetween the contact which would normally " grip" the PCB board, and soldered them to the contacts. Be carefull that you ise a soldering iron with a high enough wattage and be carefull that the solder does not flow to the adjacent contacts, creating a short.
After soldering and testing i used hotglue to protect the contacts against accidental touching.
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For reprogramming the flatpacks for a default voltage of 57.6 Volt (or any other voltage between 43.5 and 57.6) see the link in the first post of this thread (link to endless sphere forum)
it is basically just 2 CAN commands.
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Post on the first page of this thread on how i soldered the cables to the Flatpacks :)
How did i do the wiring on the back of the flatpacks? I just stripped the wires about 1 cm, stuck the wire inbetween the contact which would normally " grip" the PCB board, and soldered them to the contacts. Be carefull that you ise a soldering iron with a high enough wattage and be carefull that the solder does not flow to the adjacent contacts, creating a short.
After soldering and testing i used hotglue to protect the contacts against accidental touching.
Ahh, thanks. Seem to have overlooked it. I was thinking a bit along the same idea.
How does it hold mechanically?
I guess I will go that way, too.
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For reprogramming the flatpacks for a default voltage of 57.6 Volt (or any other voltage between 43.5 and 57.6) see the link in the first post of this thread (link to endless sphere forum)
it is basically just 2 CAN commands.
Wijnand71 just sent me the code. I will add it to the repo I setup. ðŸ‘
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I can understand the confusion, the endless sphere thread contains some code snippets that need some attention to get running with your own rectifiers. This thread also contains a lot of code with the regular jitter in it that you'll have to modify to get going with your own rectifier.
Thanks @ Neuer_User for keeping the repo up!
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I can understand the confusion, the endless sphere thread contains some code snippets that need some attention to get running with your own rectifiers. This thread also contains a lot of code with the regular jitter in it that you'll have to modify to get going with your own rectifier.
Thanks @ Neuer_User for keeping the repo up!
I have added the sketch to set the voltage permanently to my repo https://gitlab.com/Neuer_User/Zero-Supercharger (https://gitlab.com/Neuer_User/Zero-Supercharger) (thanks to wijnand71!).
Some questions popped up in my mind. Maybe the answers are buried somewhere, but it is difficult to find:
- Are the external diodes mentioned in the thread needed or not?
- In case of a two flatpack charger, only one flatpack is connected to the arduino, right? Does it make a difference which one?
- Both flatpaks first need to be set to the right final permanent voltage, right? Which one do you guys use? The sketch implies 57.5 V, leading to a final charge voltage of 115V.
- Do the flatpaks need to have set a max current? Or is this irrelevant now that the PID is driving the flatpaks?
- in order to pause or stop charging, is there a command to tell the flatpaks to stop, before you disconnect the cables?
- Is there a list of known CAN commands for the flatpaks anywhere? I would like to add it to the wiki on the repo.
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Some questions popped up in my mind. Maybe the answers are buried somewhere, but it is difficult to find:
- Are the external diodes mentioned in the thread needed or not?
- In case of a two flatpack charger, only one flatpack is connected to the arduino, right? Does it make a difference which one?
- Both flatpaks first need to be set to the right final permanent voltage, right? Which one do you guys use? The sketch implies 57.5 V, leading to a final charge voltage of 115V.
- Do the flatpaks need to have set a max current? Or is this irrelevant now that the PID is driving the flatpaks?
- in order to pause or stop charging, is there a command to tell the flatpaks to stop, before you disconnect the cables?
- Is there a list of known CAN commands for the flatpaks anywhere? I would like to add it to the wiki on the repo.
1. I don't use external diodes and don't really understand for what they would be needed
2. Yes, you can only connect one flatpack in a series, otherwise you will blow the arduino. However you can connect two that are in parallel, for example the two bottom ones.
3. I'm actually using max voltage on both currently, so 57,6 V each.
4. You can't set a permanent max current, you can just control the current of the one connected to the arduino. The other one is following because they are in series. The PID determines current via voltage regulation.
5. There's no such command as far as I know. Power off the flatpacks first before you disconnect them. When theres no current flowing anymore it's safe to disconnect.
6. So far there is no list I guess. You can extract the different commands out of the code and forums.
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1. I don't use external diodes and don't really understand for what they would be needed
2. Yes, you can only connect one flatpack in a series, otherwise you will blow the arduino. However you can connect two that are in parallel, for example the two bottom ones.
3. I'm actually using max voltage on both currently, so 57,6 V each.
4. You can't set a permanent max current, you can just control the current of the one connected to the arduino. The other one is following because they are in series. The PID determines current via voltage regulation.
5. There's no such command as far as I know. Power off the flatpacks first before you disconnect them. When theres no current flowing anymore it's safe to disconnect.
6. So far there is no list I guess. You can extract the different commands out of the code and forums.
Some additive notes on the questions:
1. On the endless-Sphere forum there's a guy called DoctorBass and he is a kind of super specialist on builing electronics and especially chargers. He always insist on having a diode parallel on the output. (anode on minus, cathode on plus) I tried to look up the thread but there are just too many post about diodes on outputs. I discussed this also with Remmie and he remebered as it has something todo with the series connection of the FlatPacks and having just one load. In some rare cases there can be a reversed voltage on one of the rectifiers for a short period of time. With this diode you always protect the FP agains any reversed polarity for just €2,50. Use Schottky diode DSA70C150HB, middle pole is cathode and outer ones are Anode's. There are 2 diodes in one package.
http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/160616/IXYS-DSA70C150HB-Schottky-Diode (http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/160616/IXYS-DSA70C150HB-Schottky-Diode)
They won't get warm, as they only work in a very short period of time. Put some heatshrink over it to islolate the housing.
2. And the FP will also blow! At least the CAN interface will die!!!
Remmie and I are currently working on code and hardware to control BOTH flatpacks, for a dual FP setup or a Quad setup. The bottom one communicates via a standard Arduino and the top one communicates via an isolated Arduino. Both Arduino's are talking together via an I2C connection.
If all is going to work as the idea, current is maximum controllable. So you can charge on every power connection available.
No matter if its a single 5A camping circuit or a tripple phase 22kW station.
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Remmie and I are currently working on code and hardware to control BOTH flatpacks, for a dual FP setup or a Quad setup. The bottom one communicates via a standard Arduino and the top one communicates via an isolated Arduino. Both Arduino's are talking together via an I2C connection.
If all is going to work as the idea, current is maximum controllable. So you can charge on every power connection available.
No matter if its a single 5A camping circuit or a tripple phase 22kW station.
That really sounds great.
The solution you are looking into would then require two leonardos (the arduino with the integrated CAN-BUS transceiver), right? Wouldn't an isolated coupler on the CAN-Bus work, too? Such as ADUM5241?
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Yes, two Leonardo's. And they communicate together via I2C.
Our solution is now based on a ISO1050DUB CAN isolator, wich connects to an Leonardo PCB internally. When all is finally working I will post all details and hardware needed. Remmie is working on the code side and I do the hardware and testing. Be patient, we are workingon it.
In extend on my previous post hereby an image of the added diode on the PCB of Ciscone and a pic of our Dual Arduino test setup
Still under construction though.
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Oh, and a pic of our test setup so far..
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Interesting.
Why do you still need two Leonardo boards, if you have the 1050DUB? Can't it be connected to serial port of the Leonardo and transceive that to the isolated can bus?
Yes, two Leonardo's. And they communicate together via I2C.
Our solution is now based on a ISO1050DUB CAN isolator, wich connects to an Leonardo PCB internally. When all is finally working I will post all details and hardware needed. Remmie is working on the code side and I do the hardware and testing. Be patient, we are workingon it.
In extend on my previous post hereby an image of the added diode on the PCB of Ciscone and a pic of our Dual Arduino test setup
Still under construction though.
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Also of interest could be the LTM2889.
Edit: forget this. It's a nice device, but the package is a BGA.
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Interesting.
Why do you still need two Leonardo boards, if you have the 1050DUB? Can't it be connected to serial port of the Leonardo and transceive that to the isolated can bus?
Don't think so. The CAN drivers accept TXD and RXD signals straigt from the CAN controller. Those signals are bi-directional. Its (at least for now) a easier step to start from. And 2 Arduino's give us much flexibility at low cost. Maybe it can be done with one, but its gonna be way more complex.
The whole thing should also be affordable. It should be build with "blocks" that already exists. I tried to develop a PCB myself, but that is way to expensive compared with our current setup. And almost everybody with two right hands should be able to build this. Also the level of nerdiness should be not be that sky-high ;-) To isolate the upper CAN signals we found a ready to go PCB wich accepts data straight from the CAN controller, wich is on the Arduino board. Only a bit of precise soldering is required here.
As said, more details are following as the proces of testing develops. We are just at the beginning of testing code with this hardware.
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Have you seen these CAN bus isolators:
http://www.peak-system.com/PCAN-Optoadapter.215.0.html?&L=1 (http://www.peak-system.com/PCAN-Optoadapter.215.0.html?&L=1)
Maybe that could be the easiest way. But they cost 75€, so probably more expensive. But seems to me to be the easiest solution.
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Great investigation Lenny. Good to know. In the meantime I testted a lot together with Remmie, who is the absolute codemaster behind this all. He added a so called PID regulation to the Leonardo code, wich solved the problem of uncontrolable current when having a low state of charge. On my double flatpack 2000 and on his quadpack S this is now kind of working. But still tweaking though.
We're getting so close to a perfect controllable QuadEltekSupercharger ;D
This QuadEltekSupercharger you can now hook up to:
1 phase 16A (get as much from one single plug) : onboard + 2x10A = ~3,5 kW
3 phase 16A (get as much from one mennekes 11 kW station) : onboard + 2x30A = ~ 7,9kW
3 phase 32A (get as much from one mennekes 22kW station) : onboard + 4x1800W (full power) = ~8,5 kW
And, of course the
1 phase 6A (for example the socket on the capsite) : onboard only = ~1,3 kW
The charger is controlled with one pushbutton to set the current, starting with the 10A setting. A display shows Current Temps etc, see previous post. Now you can really charge everywhere and use the local power situation to the max. No matter what. 8) Soo cool
Just to understand: With the current ("published") implementation, the voltage is only regulated on one flatpak. Therefore, the PID can regulate it between 43.5+57.6=101.1V and 57.6+57.6=115.2V, correct?
So, if the battery voltage is below 101.1V, then the current solution cannot regulate the current by reducing the output voltage anymore. So, the flatpaks will draw the maximum current they can get and work with. Correct?
In the future solution (that you are developing), you would have both flatpacks regulated, so the minumum voltage would be 43.5+43.5=87V, so below the lowest expectable battery voltage. So, the PID should be able to adapt the output voltage to whatever is needed for the indended current. Correct?
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Yes, all true on all points
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Have you seen these CAN bus isolators:
http://www.peak-system.com/PCAN-Optoadapter.215.0.html?&L=1 (http://www.peak-system.com/PCAN-Optoadapter.215.0.html?&L=1)
Maybe that could be the easiest way. But they cost 75€, so probably more expensive. But seems to me to be the easiest solution.
@wijmand71: And what about this CAN bus isolator? Could that not be the much easier way? Just attach put it between the Leonardo and the second flatpak. Then the one Leonardo should be able to control both flatpaks. Or am I missing something?
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It not that simple, the Leonardo has more than enough digital pins available even with the OLED, and SMS pins used.
However, the CANbus transceiver uses the MOSI, MISO and SCLK pins of the arduino. thusfar we have not investigated if you cannot connect multiple CAN transceivers on those pins (likely not) or if we could use other pins and use a software CAN solution. My arduino skills don't go that far (yet).
The easiest thing for us now was using two Leonardo boards and send the PID over to one another via I2C, that only adds 4 lines to the code.
We will definitely investigate if everything can be done using only 1 Leonardo board and an isolated can board.
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You can definitely have more than one SPI device attached. That's what the CS line is for. I'm slowly getting round to playing around with my flatpacks, but lots of other stuff getting in my way. I absolutely refuse to use an Arduino though - I can't stand them.
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I think to clarify the options that generally exists, here is a short summary:
Solution approach 1: Two arduinos, aligning on PID via some serial interface (e.g. I2C), isolated between each other. They thus would need separate PSUs, too. (see attachment 1)
Pros: probably cheapest solution
Cons: many components, more complex program, more cabeling, more space
Solution approach 2: One arduino, one additional isolated CAN bus transceiver, such as LTM2889 (see attachment 2)
Pros: Many different CAN bus tranceivers can be used.
Cons: PCB needed for the transceivers, additional programming for the arduino
Solution approach 3: One arduino, one CAN bus isolator (see attachment 3)
Pros: simple solution, only one additional part (ready for use)
Cons: only few products on the market, and mostly rather more expensive (>= 75 €)
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I absolutely refuse to use an Arduino though - I can't stand them.
Sounds like an emotional issue... Do you prefer a PIC structure?
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I absolutely refuse to use an Arduino though - I can't stand them.
Sounds like an emotional issue... Do you prefer a PIC structure?
I was a diehard PIC microcontroller user until I broke down to the AVR microcontrollers... the Arduino and its library eventually snagged me for its ease of use for quick projects. at this point, I use a mini/micro clone for just about everything.
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I was a diehard PIC microcontroller user until I broke down to the AVR microcontrollers... the Arduino and its library eventually snagged me for its ease of use for quick projects. at this point, I use a mini/micro clone for just about everything.
Lol I'm exactly the opposite. I've used AVRs, MSP430s, Arduinos, Raspberry Pis, Fez, and everything else you can think of, but my first and still favorite platform is the Microchip PICs. I can't STAND under-performing, pre-digested solutions like you find on the Arduinos. They use ten times the resources and do things ten times slower than they should. In terms of bang for the buck, I remain convinced that the PIC platform can't be beaten.
I'm also not a big fan of throwing a BeagleBone in every product. I have nothing against BeagleBone (or any other embedded LINUX solution), but I think it's a lot more power than just about anybody needs or winds up using. OS'es are cool in their place, but they do consume a tremendous amount of resources and place a burden that most people just don't need and shouldn't be burdening themselves with. And they STILL can't handle real-time apps very well! By comparison, it's insane what an 8-bit processor with 128k flash RAM can be made to do, with many parts under $3.00 OTC, in small quantities.
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I probably should have said nothing, as I don't want to drag a useful thread off topic. The reason I dislike the Arduino is because of the awful development environment, sloppy, bloated code and lack of proper JTAG debugging. It also seems to foster the sort of thinking that relies entirely on buying a "shield" downloading somebody else's library, and writing a single if statement.
I'm far happier with almost any other microcontroller and IDE, normally MSP430, STM32, TI's Tiva or CC ARM devices, etc.
Anyway, that's just my personal opinion. Let's not detract from this excellent work on Flatpack-based charging.
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You can definitely have more than one SPI device attached. That's what the CS line is for. I'm slowly getting round to playing around with my flatpacks, but lots of other stuff getting in my way. I absolutely refuse to use an Arduino though - I can't stand them.
Maybe a getchip.com is for you.
https://bbs.nextthing.co/t/can-bus-mcp2515-via-spi-anyone/11388
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If you're not into arduino you could also use this DUAL PICAN board and a raspberry PI.
If you would also connect that to the OBD port of the zero and add a (say) 5" (preferably waterproof) touchscreen monitor. someone could make an awesome interface for the Zeroes.
http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/pican2-duo-isolated-canbus-board-for-raspberry-pi-23-p-1482:b3bde05466bb8177b513f31d07dc4947.html (http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/pican2-duo-isolated-canbus-board-for-raspberry-pi-23-p-1482:b3bde05466bb8177b513f31d07dc4947.html)
And get a display like the energica's
(https://electricmotorcycles.nl/uploads/images/product-category/crop_header/credit-damiano-fiorentini-7.jpg)
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I'm OK with the microcontrollers I already use, thanks. Both the chip and the Pi are a little OTT for some simple SPI/CAN communication.
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I'm OK with the microcontrollers I already use, thanks. Both the chip and the Pi are a little OTT for some simple SPI/CAN communication.
Yeah, I missed the linux-based dealbreaker comment. Shouldn't have said anything. The canbus seemed relevant but you'd already identified that chip too.
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What Linux-based dealbreaker comment?
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What Linux-based dealbreaker comment?
Oops. Got my time sequences wrong. "Both the chip and the Pi are a little OTT", and both are linux based, and over the top, that's what I interpreted as. Sorry, crossed brain wires, ignore.
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Shall we stick to taking about the charger? I've got no problem giving my opinion of various microcontrollers​ and SBCs, but I doubt that's of interest to everyone.
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Shall we stick to taking about the charger? I've got no problem giving my opinion of various microcontrollers​ and SBCs, but I doubt that's of interest to everyone.
Yes, I would also appreciate if discussions about the pros/cons of microcontrollers could be done in a separated thread.
Here, I am rather interested in the progress of the self-built supercharger. :)
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Did I mention yet mine is working nicely? Without an attached microcontroller? 8)
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Did I mention yet mine is working nicely? Without an attached microcontroller? 8)
:D Yeah, I programmed my two flatpaks yesterday. Will finish all cables today or tomorrow (depending on my time). Then either by the end of this week or beginning of next week (end of this week it's said to rain) I will do a first test charge here at work (they have a new charging station here free for employees).
That would be already awesome.
Then later I will (continue to) build the microcontroller, display, etc. I am still looking for the simplest solution to control both flatpaks, as the main goal for me for the controller is to limit charging currents.
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I'm also planning to just update the output voltage and then leave it unless I find I require output monitoring. Not point adding complication unless you need it.
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It would be interesting to see stuff like charging current etc. but fiddling around with a bunch of Arduino's doesn't seem worth it imho ;) Just set to 115.4V, and let the current limiter do it's job.
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It would be interesting to see stuff like charging current etc. but fiddling around with a bunch of Arduino's doesn't seem worth it imho ;) Just set to 115.4V, and let the current limiter do it's job.
Yeah, in general I agree. However, my volt meter is showing 58.0V per flatpak now, so it's together 116.0V. Not sure, if the measurement is wrong, or the paks are really wrongly configured now. Before I changed the voltage, the volt meter was showing 53.6V, which seems to be the expected value.
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Don't forget it's a floating voltage, things tend to differ wuite a bit under load ;)
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The question which is unclear to me: do the flatpacks work in CC mode like a normal "charger"? Since remmie worked out a PID voltage follower, the answer may be "no" and therefore the voltage servo is there to mimic the CC while the flatpacks actually doing CV. Others said they do not need the arduino stuff, once the output voltage has bee set to 57,5V or so. This would suggest that the CC mode is possible.
I know that usually "power supplies" for computers, which are not chargers, can only stand CV, and as soon as the current demand exceeds the rated value, instead of decreasing the voltage, they shut down completely.
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Looking at the datasheet of an 2HE, Eltek states:
48 – 56V: Constant power
40 – 48V: Constant current
I think a FPs behaves the same.
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The flatpacks (2 HE and S) are CV, CC, CP (Constant voltage, Constant Current, Constant Power)
You don't need the Arduino if you use the flatpacks on a powersupply which can handle the full current the flatpacks demand.
Operation without arduino attached is : set them to 57.6 Volt (which is the maximum they can do) and when the pack voltage is lower they will output its maximum power or current depending on the voltage.
When the output voltage of the flatpack S is below 48 Volt the current is at it's maximum of 37.5 Amps. The lowest output voltage the flatpack can handle is 43.5 Volt. Combined with the max current of 37.5 A this means 1631 Watt of output power.
If the voltage is exactly 48 volts the power is 1800 Watt and the current 37.5A
Above 48V the current tapers down with the voltage to keep it at constant power. So at 57.6 Volt the max possible current is 1800/57.6 = 31.25
The arduino was initially used just to display the voltage, current and temperatures which were available on the canbus. And the supercharger was only meant for 11kW or 22kW 3 phase EV charge locations but WITH the arduino it can also be used on a regular 230V 16A mains outlet using 3500 Watt on it rather than the onboard power of 1300 Watt. This effectively triples the charging power from a single mains socket.
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Don't you think you could use the flatpacks off a 16a group? Theoretically the group should supply 3680W which would barely be enough..... mmmm.... let's blow a fuse for science :)
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Don't you think you could use the flatpacks off a 16a group? Theoretically the group should supply 3680W which would barely be enough..... mmmm.... let's blow a fuse for science :)
I've charged with 2 Flatpacks + FXS onboard (so ~4650W) on a single plug with 16A breaker for about 20-25 min, the breaker didn't trip. Although I guess it was pretty close. It happened due to a silly fault which I made.
Regular B16 breakers are quite tolerant for a slight overcurrent, because this is determined by heat. The fast shutdown in case of high overcurrents is done magnetic. See the diagramm attached.
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It's not clearly shown in the graph but a 230Vac B16A circuitbreaker should be able to handle 1.13 to 1.45 times the nominal current for at least 60 minutes.
1.13*16 = 18.1 A
1.45*16 = 23.2 A
2 pcs Flatpack S at full power (slightly above 1800 Watts) with an efficiency of at least 95% and a voltage drop in the supply cable of 10 Volt (5%) racks up to :
2x1800/(0.95*220)= 17.2 amps. Be aware that this is for the flatpacks alone and absolutely nothing else on that circuit. If you connect the onboard to a different circuit you can charge at home at 3.6+1.3 = almost 5 kW.
I guess using the onboard of a (D)S(R) and the flatpacks at full power would trip the breaker but hey, why don't you just try. Keep a eye (and a feel) on the mains socket though as an improper installation or bad contact can heat up quickly and melt the socket or even catch fire.
2 flatpacks 2HE would maybe be possible if the voltage drop can be as low as possible (use thick wires from the socket to the Flatpack (2.5 mm2)
2x2000/(0.95*220) = 19 Amps which should be possible for at least 40 minutes but may also last the entire charge.
I'm fortunate to have such an unused circuit in my garage and have charged once or twice at maximum rate to get going quickly after a ride.
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2 FP and the onboard, that's about 22A or so. It's not very safe to pull that from a 16A schuko socket. In the early recent EV times (2011-2012), the Leaf's and iMiEV's were fitted with a charging cable drawing 14 to 16A from the socket, which is mathematically within spec. However, from about 2013, those cars were fitted with cables pulling only 8 to 10A from the socket. To get the max current you need to have a regular wallbox at an insane price. This reduction of intensity was motivated by the fear of causing a house fire in case the socket and the wiring behind it was somehow old, with oxydated contacts and loose wall wire connections...
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Hello all,
We are now a few guys messing around the flatpacks in order to build remmie's supercharger. Not sure if it was said before, nevertheless let me share my worries and findings.
If The flatpack does NOT answer CAN commands, neither seem to send anything to your Leonardo-CAN, don't worry!
First try to connect the CAN to your car's OBD2 port just to listen what happens (in 500KBPS). You will probably get a huge amount of ununderstandable data. This means your HW and SW works.
If not, check the source code for this line:
const int SPI_CS_PIN = 17;
Figure "17" is the data pin connected to the CAN IC's chip select input, in case of Leonardo-CAN. Other CAN "shields" may use another data pin for that, for example "10". Please check this pin value (on the schematic diagram of your board) and adjust the source code accordingly.
Now it really works with the car.
Still, with the FP nothing works (even with 125KBPS setting). This is probably due to the termination resistor, 120 Ohms which shall be installed "somewhere" on any CAN bus. Your car already contains one. The Flatpack, as a single component, does not. The Leonardo-CAN board offers the option to add or not the "Terminal" resistor. It is already mounted on the board, you just need to connect it (or not) to the bus using a jumper. As soon as the "terminal" holes are bridged, the FP starts talking!
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Just done a final test with the flatpacks in an enclosure, whilst charging in the topcase with a small venting hole created by the case not completely closing. Chargers get so hot you can barely touch, but they kept going without goint into thermal shutdown. Outside temps 18C, and sunny so a good warmer weather test. When summer really hits i'll have to put them on the passenger footpeg in the shade i guess.... Still, happily charging along at about 6kW together with the charge tank ;)
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So, today I tested my two flatpaks. They worked nicely. ðŸ‘
Only issue I had that they continued charging with 7A even though the SOC was reported already at 100%. I guess I need to reprogram them to less than 57.6V. I will try 57V.
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First high power charge trial today. As soon as they are connected to the bike, the fans go full speed and loud !
I was able to set the permanent max voltage. And charge without Arduino board. Next step will be to implement the Leonardo to get something useful on the tiny oled display and maybe also reduce the charge current, depending on the power source available. Also have to do the 3-phase interconnect with a type-2 plug (as soon as it is delivered) to be used on public 22kW stations.
Really happy, so far !
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So, today I tested my two flatpaks. They worked nicely. 👍
Only issue I had that they continued charging with 7A even though the SOC was reported already at 100%. I guess I need to reprogram them to less than 57.6V. I will try 57V.
I noticed the same yesterday. I wouldn't worry too much about it, they start tapering down to 2-3 amps very soon. I guess it's more or less due to the fact that the SOC calculation is a little "confused" after fast charging, so it does show 100% although it's not really full yet. You won't overcharge the battery, as the flatpacks can't really push out more than 115,2V in total. The onboard is doing 116,4V if I'm informed correctly. Furthermore the BMS will shut down before you really overcharge it. I will keep mine on 57,6 V each.
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Lenny is correct. 116 - 116.4 is what the bike thinks is 100% ...
My RSP meanwell stack is set at 114v even ... when it gets there it simply stops outputting current while the main meanwells on the bike (MY13) take over for the last 10% of the charge.
So don't look at SOC look at voltage or just listen for when your chargers are "done" as the sound changes as their input drops.
The "over voltage" protection on a zero BMS, if I recall correctly, is 118v ... if you get it this high by any means the bike will lock you out and you will have to wait for the voltage to drop to a safer number ... I have been told the wait is very long lol
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My Flatpacks decrease the current and that is audible by the fan noise, which stops completely when both PSU's reach max voltage and current tapers down to about 5 amps. In my case that should be around 115,4v and my display then shows 95% charge. The chargetank then finishes off at about 10A.
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So I did a first real test today at a local charging point. It worked pretty nicely. It charges at 4.9kW. Charging from 60% to 93% took about one hour, worth current reduction kicking in at about 89%.
At 93% I stopped it, because the charging power was down to 1.2kW. When I stopped charging, the SOC value jumped to 100%. Strange. Apparently, the SOC is really not very reliable when fast charging. Anyhow, it worked, so I'm rather happy. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170523/c58c34e44af8669ebe5ee2424690de6c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170523/b6b3ccef8b5ba99abd64f359b3199600.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170523/6da7a49b094ff23c0b00b51d6be8c90b.jpg)
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Did also my first trial at home yesterday. From 20% to 99% (% shown after disconnecting and key off/on) in about 1h45min. So good!
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Did a small tour last weekend, to see how well the apps work for finding chargers outside of my direct environment. First charger was at a gas station and I refuse to spend time there with my motorcycle ;) so on to the next, which turned out to be a 3,7kW unit. Too light to my taste so on to the next one which was much better...
Lessons learned: Don't go EVSE shopping with < 10% SOC since you might be driving around for a while finding the right spot ;)
PS I already shortened the orange DC cable, this one is rediculous ;)
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In France there are many 22kWAC stations, perfectly tuned for the Renault Zoe, but useless for cars with DC fast charging. These AC stations will be my target as soon as I have built the 3 phase setup with the type 2 plug. Just to make thinks more complicated, a vast number of these stations have (only) a type 3c socket which used to be the special french-italian exception in the lobbying battle between the big electric apparatus companies. Now that EU has decided to make the type 2 as a standard, the 3c will (slowly of course) be replaced by type 2. In the mean time, some stations are clever enough to offer both types of socket.
Charging at a gas station is a not that bad idea. Putting apart the bad smell of these places, it is a way to show to all drivers where the future is. It shows that the gas stations can progressively move they business model from selling gas to selling electricity. And in fine, during the waiting time you can enjoy the station's shop... Of course it may be more pleasant to find a charging point in the middle of a nice city.
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Did a small tour last weekend, to see how well the apps work for finding chargers outside of my direct environment. First charger was at a gas station and I refuse to spend time there with my motorcycle ;) so on to the next, which turned out to be a 3,7kW unit. Too light to my taste so on to the next one which was much better...
Lessons learned: Don't go EVSE shopping with < 10% SOC since you might be driving around for a while finding the right spot ;)
Your right on the fact not to arrive with very little battery remaining if you don't know it's a reliable charge point with alternatives. Actually I'm always picking charge locations with some alternatives nearby in less than 5 km, so if one doesn't work, I just move to the next.
Have you tried TheNewMotion or Plugsurfing Apps? Those actually show you how much power a charging point has and whether it is occupied or not. I always pick those with 11 or 22 kW.
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I used thenewmotion which was wrong about the 3,7kW points, showing them as 11kW. I reported those, let's see when it's fixed ;)
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My Quad build for Cama.. Using 4 Eltek FP1800
Size: 9x15x28cm. Every mm is used.
Non Arduino version, just reprogrammed Eltek's to max voltage.
Capable of pumpin' 81A into the Zero 8)
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My Quad build for Cama.. Using 4 Eltek FP1800
Size: 9x15x28cm. Every mm is used.
Non Arduino version, just reprogrammed Eltek's to max voltage.
Capable of pumpin' 81A into the Zero 8)
Very nice Housing !!!
At 9x15x28 cm it is just a fraction bigger than without the housing. Mine is 8.1x14.5x23 cm
81A is around the same current as I see using the Quad FP at the highest current setting.
I've got screenshots showing :
83A at 23% SOC
79A at 63% SOC
76A at 83% SOC
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hello Remmie,
i´m new in this forum and I want to use a pack of two FP 2000 HE´s to charge my bike. I have a question to you
about the protection of the FP´s. The schottky diodes placed on each PCB board shall protect the single FP from
voltage peaks in case they are not syncron yet, right ?
How is the pack protected in the case one of the two is failing and the 115 volts come back ? I ask this because
the FP 2000 HE have no internal O-ring protection following the data sheet. Could this be a problem or danger ?
thank you very much and bye Peter
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Hi Peter and welcome to the forum.
I currently use exact the same setup. 2 xFP2000HE in series. This works really great. In case one of them fails, the total series voltage of 115V is not gonna be reached and therefore no charge will take place. I had this scenario once while I was still building the 3 phase setup and forgot to connect one of the two chargers to mains power. Nothing happened, no charge, no fireworks.
After rewiring the pack it was all good. L1 to onboard, L2 to FP1 and L3 to FP2.
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My Quad build for Cama.. Using 4 Eltek FP1800
Size: 9x15x28cm. Every mm is used.
Non Arduino version, just reprogrammed Eltek's to max voltage.
Capable of pumpin' 81A into the Zero 8)
Very cool :D
Your solutions seems to be portable. Does it fit in the tank bag (when transporting) and is it 'moisture-proof' (meaning one could use it during heavy rain under a garage or during strong fog)?
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Your solutions seems to be portable. Does it fit in the tank bag (when transporting) and is it 'moisture-proof' (meaning one could use it during heavy rain und a garage or during strong fog)?
It is absolute portable and manageable easily with one hand. Surprisingly small unit with a huge power output.
It isn't fitting in the tank bag unfortunately and consider the front and back to be "open" in the most broad sense of the word.. So any rain or moisture would easily beiing sucked in by the fans. The fans are surprisingly powerfull and drag really a lot of air. The front and back need to be open and free of any leaves, barriers etc on all times.
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Hello Wijnand71,
thank you very much for your answer. It´s a great help for me so now I can go on building up my
5,3 kw charging solution. For the moment I think its powerful enough for me.
The quad charger you build and posted is a real hot thing I like it.
see you Peter
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The front and back need to be open and free of any leaves, barriers etc on all times.
This just made me think of something that I only assumed...
Do the Elteks have a thermal sensor that will lower or cutoff output if they get too warm?
Lets pretend we didnt notice a stray leaf or wrapper came along and blocked the fan... it would cut back and then off if it was overheating, right?
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This just made me think of something that I only assumed...
Do the Elteks have a thermal sensor that will lower or cutoff output if they get too warm?
Lets pretend we didnt notice a stray leaf or wrapper came along and blocked the fan... it would cut back and then off if it was overheating, right?
Sure, the FP's do have a protection for this. The product pdf states:
Max output power de-rates above temp / to 45°C [113°F] / 1000W @ 85°C[185°F]
Although I pushed the chargers to their limits, I did not succeed to activate the protection.
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This just made me think of something that I only assumed...
Do the Elteks have a thermal sensor that will lower or cutoff output if they get too warm?
Lets pretend we didnt notice a stray leaf or wrapper came along and blocked the fan... it would cut back and then off if it was overheating, right?
Sure, the FP's do have a protection for this. The product pdf states:
Max output power de-rates above temp / to 45°C [113°F] / 1000W @ 85°C[185°F]
Although I pushed the chargers to their limits, I did not succeed to activate the protection.
excellent.
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!!WARNING!!
To all people using Ciscone's PCB's V1.0 together with CAN signals, please cut the ground trace on the board as in the picture below. Or your CAN interface will die. On the FPside as well as on the Arduino or other CAN driver side.
If appreciable you can re-route this trace to the - of the output. I suggest to leave it and don't connect it to any output to avoid problems.
In my projects I don't use the CAN ground, I use only CAN+ and CAN- for now.
Becourse this PCB was made from an earlier version for the FP2HE, ground was the outside pole there. On the FPs the output polarity is swapped! On the FPs PLUS is on the outside of the PCB.
As mentioned earlier the + and - text on the PCB is wrong and needs to be swapped. I'm working now on a PCB V2 where these errors (and some more improvements) are solved.
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!!WARNING!!
To all people using Ciscone's PCB's V1.0 together with CAN signals, please cut the ground trace on the board as in the picture below. Or your CAN interface will die. On the FPside as well as on the Arduino or other CAN driver side.
You can re-route this trace to the - of the output.
In my projects I don't use the CAN ground, I use only CAN+ and CAN- for now.
Becourse this PCB was made from an earlier version for the FP2HE, ground was the outside pole there. On the FPs the output polarity is swapped! On the FPs PLUS is on the outside of the PCB.
As mentioned earlier the + and - text on the PCB is wrong and needs to be swapped. I'm working now on a PCB V2 where these errors (and some more improvements) are solved.
Why was this tied to the output anyway? It seems like a major hazard considered these may be put in series with other chargers. If anything the neutral input, or PE would be a more sensible ground, as they may be common for several devices. But i don't know how the elteks was made inside..? Stricly speaking i would prefer signal bus ground to be just that- and completely independent of input and output voltages.
Personally i cut one of mine, because of this. The other one is connected, however not in use.
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Why was this tied to the output anyway?
I think becaurse this board has its origin at the forum of Endless-Sphere and there the chargers are mainly used to power E-bikes. So no series connection of chargers. Then its fine to have one common ground.
When they design the first board it was originally made for the FP2000 and later on for the FP-S. When adapting to this FP-S style the focus mainly was on size and form I guess.
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I have also noticed this when realizing the output polarity was reversed. It is somehow logical that the comm' ground is the same as that of the DC output. Remember that the Elteks are designed for server usage, which is 48V with variable power. Therefore they are supposed to be tied in parallel but never in series (although it works). As long as tens of FP's are in //, their CAN busses will have a common GND.
Please note that the CAN bus is NOT floating (no transformers or the like). It is referenced to GND, therefore you should wire the GND to your CAN interface (Arduino, Leonardo or other). It "may" work without GND, but that's not sure, result is unpredictable.
Some years ago, in my job, I a had an issue like that, the tester couldn't communicate via CAN with the device under test. A guy told me "there is no problem with the CAN, both lines are well connected". Yes indeed! But with no GND. I added the GND line and it worked immediately.
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I have also noticed this when realizing the output polarity was reversed. It is somehow logical that the comm' ground is the same as that of the DC output. Remember that the Elteks are designed for server usage, which is 48V with variable power. Therefore they are supposed to be tied in parallel but never in series (although it works). As long as tens of FP's are in //, their CAN busses will have a common GND.
Please note that the CAN bus is NOT floating (no transformers or the like). It is referenced to GND, therefore you should wire the GND to your CAN interface (Arduino, Leonardo or other). It "may" work without GND, but that's not sure, result is unpredictable.
Some years ago, in my job, I a had an issue like that, the tester couldn't communicate via CAN with the device under test. A guy told me "there is no problem with the CAN, both lines are well connected". Yes indeed! But with no GND. I added the GND line and it worked immediately.
GND can mean different things- the can bus need a common reference point for signaling- but that doesn't have to be connected to power I/O. I think Wijnands answer to my question seems likely. To me this means that the only sensible thing is to provide a common reference between signaling elements that is not connected to power. This means cutting the endkess-sphere board connection and provide a separate connection.
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My "fast" charger works now pretty good. 4.9 to 5kW alltogether. There is no leonardo board installed, it's just max voltage max power max current. Connected to a 3 phase type 2 (Mennekes) outlet. Thank you so much to all guys who helped make this setup possible and procure the chargers. :)
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I'm having a very frustrating time trying to set the voltage on my Flatpack 2 HEs (the ones with the single fan and black fascia). I wonder if anyone can help.
I have the CAN BUS happily connected. I see the initial walk-in messages. I can log in and then get the regular messages with the input and output voltages. However, it seems to completely ignore the command to set the voltage. I even gave in and bought an Arduino from hobbytronics so I could use the same hardware and the code that's been helpfully provided and rule out any other issues. With a multimeter connected it just stays at a reported 53.5V (measured at 54.3V with no load). The amber light comes on briefly when logging in, but otherwise no change from the Flatpack.
My login code (working) is:
CAN0.sendMsgBuf(0x05004804, 1, 8, login);
I wait for the status messages and then send the set voltage code (ignored) is:
unsigned char setdefaultvolt[5] = {0x2B, 0x15, 0x00, 0x76, 0x16}; // for 57.5V
CAN0.sendMsgBuf(0x05009C02, 1, 5, setdefaultvolt);
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I'm having a very frustrating time trying to set the voltage on my Flatpack 2 HEs (the ones with the single fan and black fascia). I wonder if anyone can help.
I have the CAN BUS happily connected. I see the initial walk-in messages. I can log in and then get the regular messages with the input and output voltages. However, it seems to completely ignore the command to set the voltage. I even gave in and bought an Arduino from hobbytronics so I could use the same hardware and the code that's been helpfully provided and rule out any other issues. With a multimeter connected it just stays at a reported 53.5V (measured at 54.3V with no load). The amber light comes on briefly when logging in, but otherwise no change from the Flatpack.
My login code (working) is:
CAN0.sendMsgBuf(0x05004804, 1, 8, login);
I wait for the status messages and then send the set voltage code (ignored) is:
unsigned char setdefaultvolt[5] = {0x2B, 0x15, 0x00, 0x76, 0x16}; // for 57.5V
CAN0.sendMsgBuf(0x05009C02, 1, 5, setdefaultvolt);
Hi Fred. Try the following code for setting the default voltage :
unsigned char setdefaultvolt[5] = {0x29, 0x15, 0x00, 0x76, 0x16}; //this is the command for setting the default output voltage 57.5v (0x1676 = 5750 Last two bytes, LSB first). 80 16 is the maximum voltage of 57.6 V
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05019C00, 1, 5, setdefaultvolt);
as you can see 2 changes : the 2B in the message is changed to 29 and the last 2 in the CANID is changed to 0
I think you have the code from the endless sphere forum where later in the thread i correct the code to the one above. I really should edit this on endless sphere 8) ???
Excuse me for the confusion.
Gr Remco
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Awesome. Worked first time! Thank you, remmie. :)
I came across that version late last night and thought I'd tried it already. It was sitting there in my code commented out. Maybe I'd run the wrong version as it was getting late.
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Here's a link to the endless sphere forum where the correct(ed) code is given
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=71139&hilit=05009c02&start=50#p1112822 (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=71139&hilit=05009c02&start=50#p1112822)
the code itself is :
#include <mcp_can.h>
#include <mcp_can_dfs.h>
#include <SPI.h>
const int SPI_CS_PIN = 10; // Set CS pin to pin 10 (could be 9 for other CANshields)
MCP_CAN CAN(SPI_CS_PIN); // Set CS pin for CANBUS shield
void setup() // Initialisation routine
{
START_INIT:
if(CAN_OK == CAN.begin(CAN_125KBPS)) // init can bus : baudrate = 125k !!
{
}
else
{
delay(100);
goto START_INIT;
}
unsigned char login[8] = {0x14, 0x14, 0x71, 0x11, 0x08, 0x20, 0x00, 0x00}; //this is the serial number of the unit + 2 added bytes of 00 each, sernr on the unit reads 141471110820)
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05004804, 1, 8, login); //send message to log in and assign ID=1 (last 04 means ID=1, for ID=2 use 05004808 )
unsigned char setdefaultvolt[5] = {0x29, 0x15, 0x00, 0x80, 0x16}; //this is the command for setting the default output voltage (Last two bytes, LSB first). 16 80 is the maximum voltage of 57.6 V
CAN.sendMsgBuf(0x05019C00, 1, 5, setdefaultvolt); //send message to set ouput voltage to all chargers connected to the CAN-bus
}
void loop() // main program (LOOP)
{ // nothing to do :)
}
/*********************************************************************************************************
END FILE
Voltage settings
80 16 => 1680 HEX = 57,60 Volt (= highest possible voltage
E6 14 => 14E6 HEX = 53,50 Volt (= factory set voltage)
FE 10 => 10FE HEX = 43,50 Volt (= lowest possible voltage)
*********************************************************************************************************/
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Keeping the Quad charger in the frunk and pulling it out and connecting it every time i had to charge is OK but i figured this could be improved. (yeah i'm lazy 8) )
I've been thinking of putting the charger in a watertight case but i don't like the look of the big topcases or side-cases. Putting it in a case would free up the frunk for the cables and some small items like a drinking bottle etc.
So I sought for the smallest Pelicase (or equivalent) to put the QUADpack in. It turned out the Peli 1170 case would JUST be able to fit the QUAD pack. 5 cm to spare in the length, 0.5 cm to spare in the height and absolutely no margin in the depth.
It does fit but it was very very tight and required some modifications to the flatpacks.
Now i can charge within 30 seconds of reaching a charging point. Park the bike, pull out the type 2 charging cable from the frunk, insert it into the chargepoint, open the pelicase, activate the chargepoint with the RFID tag and press the button on the Quadpack a couple of times to select the correct charging current for the chargepoint.
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and some more pictures
The Aux anderson connector is permanently attached as well as a angles C13 plug to switch on the onboard charger.
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The grey cable (for the 3-phase connection to the chargepoint is now blacked out and routed to the frunk, so this cable is "permanently" attached to the bike. I can take the case off by unplugging the three connectors and unscrewing the 4 bolts which hold the case brackets to the connection points of the licenseplate holder.
It is still charging around 8.5 kW even when confined to this little case. The outlet temperatures have risen a bit but not to the point of thermal cutback. After about 30 minutes of charging they topped in temperature at about 58 degrees celcius with an outside temperature of around 30 degrees and the sun pointed directly at the case (reminder to place the bike so the case is in the shade of the bike :)
A Peli 1400 case is much larger and can house 4 (or even 6) flatpack S units and still have the charge cable and connector inside it. (see the third picture where the 1170 case with the QuadFP is inside the 1400 case. Also a 3D mockup of the peli 1400 with 4 FPs and theres still room for some arduino boards an an OLED display in the case :)
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Very nice work, indeed, @remmie! Looks perfect!
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Does anyone know the size of these bolts? I'd like to order some cable shoes, and don't want to pull my bike apart for this only. (and being lazy;-)
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Does anyone know the size of these bolts? I'd like to order some cable shoes, and don't want to pull my bike apart for this only. (and being lazy;-)
I am sure that it is M8 bolts. I believe 13mm socket.
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Does anyone know the size of these bolts? I'd like to order some cable shoes, and don't want to pull my bike apart for this only. (and being lazy;-)
"Controller bolts are lead M8x16"
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Thanks everyone on commenting on my boldy question ;-)
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I remember having seen a post about a modification of the male Typ 2 plug to allow it to mate with a female plug instead of a socket.
Here in Switzerland we seem to have about 50% of the stations having a socket and 50% a cable with a female plug. So, either I would need to take a second cable with me, or I look at that modification.
I, however, cannot find the post. Anyone remembers?
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I remember somebody cutting approximately 10mm from the connector so the CP pin would reach. The socket end is a bit more shallow, preventing insertion like an extension cord so the mating connector needs to be a bit more shallow...
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Ah, thanks. That sounds like a more complex modification. I'm not sure I wanna go into that.
Probably better to get a second cable then with a socket at one end. ::)
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It's not complicated at all.
Just cut of the last 11 mm of the connector with a hacksaw, and you end up with a perfectly suitable plug for both chassis sockets and cable sockets. That's all there is to it.
See the picture. In the picture i also used a 50 mm drainage pipe end cap to slim down the plug even more.
You can make sure you don't cut off the end of the contacts by using something round like for example a drill bit end or a pencil and put a piece of tape at 11 mm from the end. If you can stick the pencil in every hole and it goes further in than the taped part, you wont hit the pins with the hacksaw.
You will loose the locking feature, but if you absolutely want to retain that you could screw the sawed of part back to the connector and unscrew it for cable sockets.
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Thanks, Remmie, for the picture and the details.
Looks not that complex after all, indeed. Maybe I am gonna give it a try. The connector is pretty expensive and was difficult to solder, though, and I'm not so much used to hardware mods. I do have a hacksaw. Just would need to make sure that I saw it exact and straight.
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Btw, why do you have a switch on your plug, if you do not have locking?
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I think he used to have locking *before* the hardware mod ;)
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the switch is for the 5% of the charging stations that do not accept a continous signal "charging" but need a signal "ready to charge" for a few seconds before the "charging" signal, So in these cases i set the switch to the off position for 10 seconds and then switch over.
With 95% of the charging stations i can keep the switch in the "on - charging" postition.
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Here I described the type2 mod:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6935.msg56783#msg56783 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6935.msg56783#msg56783)
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Here some pics of my setup to control both flatpacks. I called it our DASI system. DualArduinoSingleIsolated. 8)
Just a peek in the kichen is what we say here in the Netherlands ;-) Remmie and I are currently still working on the code, but basically this setup does the job.
It consists a set of 2 Arduino Leonardo's with CAN, one CAN bus isolator, a small OLED display and a 5V power supply.
On one Arduino PCB the CAN driver needs to be removed and rewired to the isolator PCB. The isolator is mouted below the Arduino on the pictures.
This setup works great, also on low very SOC the FlatPacks are fully controllable and adjustable. Really nice.
For the bottom flatpack all is really straight forward. Just one Arduino Leonardo with CAN is needed for this. The main code is running on this one. I call this the master. The upper Flatpack is controlled via an I2C connection. The signal after the MCP2515 is tapped off the pcb and fed into the isolator pcb where a ISO1050DUB chip is catching the signal and isolate the signal.
Lateron I will post an schematic where all cabling is clear and marked. But a lot can be read already from these pics..
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/ircbyg6wj2n696z/DASI-1.jpg?dl=0)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/lk7jrnwzgewxn6a/DASI-2.jpg?dl=0)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/vthwtwr75wdipd8/DASI-3.jpg?dl=0)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/ay5pps4kp10diaa/DASI-4.jpg?dl=0)
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Would a Teensy 3.6 (dual-CANbus) be more or less useful?
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Less, unless you want to smoke a CAN interface ;-)
No, all those existing dual CAN solutions are not working becaurse we need to be isolated from the power supply for the upper flatpack. These dual solutions have all one common power and ground and therefore not working for this project. The upper FlatPack has its ground on +57V. And also the data signals should be floating.
Believe me, we have been searching quite a long time to find a solutions wich is affordable, easy reproducable and easy to order. I think this solution does it.
Ofcourse many ways are leading to Rome, but we're focussing on this route..
Partlist:
2x Leonardo CAN
http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/leonardo-canbus?keyword=CAN (http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/leonardo-canbus?keyword=CAN)
1x OLED
http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/oled-graphic-display-128-64-wb?keyword=oled (http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/oled-graphic-display-128-64-wb?keyword=oled)
1x CAN bus Isolator
http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/isolated-canbus-breakout-board-5v-p-1246.html (http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/isolated-canbus-breakout-board-5v-p-1246.html)
Total of around 100 bucks incl. shipping.
For this prototype I had serious problems finding a good and stable 5V powersupply. This setup turned out to be quite selective on this. I tried PCB mounted supplies from MeanWell, TracoPower and Recom. All have a negative tolerance and deliver a voltage below 5V. Result is that one of the Arduino's on 30% of the startups can't login on the Flatpacks becourse one chip (MCP2551) is underpowered and switched off. This chip stops already on 4.5V and with an supply of 4.7V this is too close. When it sends out a burst of CAN messages into a 60 Ohm CAN line, voltage is dropped quickly. The other chips on the boards are less sensitive on this.
In the end I used a stripped, cutted in half, Apple USB charger. This one is 5V solid and works great.
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Why do you need 2 Leonardos? Wouldn't one Leonardo and one MCP2515 board do the job and be cheaper? Your code would have to handle 2 CAN interfaces but that shouldn't be a problem.
Search "MCP2515 Arduino" on eBay and you'll see the board I mean. I've got one sitting at home, but not really the time to test it at the moment.
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Fred, read the thread ;) incase of tl;dr and some tech knowledge: the signal ground is equal to the dc output ground so when putting the psu's in series you elevate the second ground to 57v and the magic smoke will come out of the mcp2515.
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@skidz I understand that. I want suggesting dropping the isolation. I was just suggesting using one microcontroller with two can bus controllers. The SPI interface allows you to use the CS line to communicate with multiple devices.
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Hi Fred,
It is probably possible to use two can bus controllers (with at least one isolated) and only 1 leonardo but Wijnand and me haven't investigated that route yet. Using 2 leonardo's avoids using multiple devices on the same bus like you suggest (now we use SPI for the canbusses and I2C for the PID value between the 2 leonardo's).
This simplifies the code of each leonardo to a degree that my (still learning) skills can cope with it.
This solutions works perfectly for now.
I myself only use a leonardo on the "bottom" flatpack so when the SOC is below 35% the QUADFP still outputs it's full current.
This is because the upper flatpack outputs 57.6 Volts and the bottom at least 43.6 volts. this is a minimum voltage of 101.2 Volt (arounf 35% SOC)
Wijnand wanted to be able to use his QUADFP on every imaginable socket even on low SOC. With the setup he has now the total voltage can be as low as 87 volts which is way below 0% and therefore the PID controller can control up to every current we can program into the arduino
If you can figure out how to wire up one single leonardo with 2 canbus controllers, please let us know. I can assist in writing code for the arduino or give you hints for the code if you want to do it yourself. Off course if you (or anyone else) wants to know how the code looks like now with the 2 leonardo's (as a starting point), we can share it. no problem. We are here to help one another making the EMC experience better. 8)
Using a CS for the SPI signal sounds good but first we would have the correct hardware components which preferable connect easily to each other. The leonardo board has a lot of spare connections on header pins, including the SPI connections.
Please share your thoughts/solution on how to connect up the second canbus controller to the leonardo. I would love to hear.
Gr Remco
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If I get a chance I'll try to get a proof of concept of two CAN BUS controllers on one Leonardo. Finding the time is the tricky bit. I can't seem to even find the time to wire up my flatpacks (now at 57.5V, thank you) and try it out. I decided that PCBs looked a little flimsy for such high current and I'm milling some solid copper contacts instead.
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Here is my planned setup : it consists of one Leonardo, one color touchscreen, one spi isolator and one spi module.
Cabling should be rather simple. Coding would include replicating the command to the internal spi to the external spi using the serial of the second elcon.
Now, the only issue I have with this is that I do not have any time at all currently. I have the parts since about one month, but so far only did few experiments with it... (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170706/eed24e87a05dd305f5ac2640c325848c.jpg)
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And here is the Elcons setup. On the db9 connector I have 5V and both can buses (both with their individual ground, if needed). (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170706/6746b960023aa8d9f1b75a49d150d2c5.jpg)
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That's exactly the setup I was thinking of, Neuer_User. One 32 bit microcontroller (even if hobbled by the Arduino stuff) should easily be able to handle two can bus controllers.
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Here I described the type2 mod:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6935.msg56783#msg56783 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6935.msg56783#msg56783)
It's not complicated at all.
Just cut of the last 11 mm of the connector with a hacksaw, and you end up with a perfectly suitable plug for both chassis sockets and cable sockets. That's all there is to it.
See the picture. In the picture i also used a 50 mm drainage pipe end cap to slim down the plug even more.
You can make sure you don't cut off the end of the contacts by using something round like for example a drill bit end or a pencil and put a piece of tape at 11 mm from the end. If you can stick the pencil in every hole and it goes further in than the taped part, you wont hit the pins with the hacksaw.
You will loose the locking feature, but if you absolutely want to retain that you could screw the sawed of part back to the connector and unscrew it for cable sockets.
I did it. And it worked. Wasn't that difficult, really. Tested at a local charging point.
Next week I'm gonna test, if the plug hopefully still works correctly in the socket. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170707/7f59411f23340b4d519d326ac4fa688d.jpg)
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Sure it works!
Since I cutted my plug, I litterally can charge on every station. Also the stations without a female cable are totaly fine.
The only drawback is that after the cutting one losses the locking mechanism function. Personally I never have seen somebody pulling a plug of anybody elses EV. Hope that will stay that way.
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Next step could be merging the mennekes plug with the red cee plug, to save space and hazzle when the cord mangles up
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I have been driving / riding EVs for most of the last decade. Using Public charging stations for about half that time. I have only
had someone unplug my vehicle once. There were two Chargepoint stations, one was not working. I was plugged into the other
with my Focus. I got a text that my Focus had stopped charging. I went to the car and found a kid had removed the J1772 from my
car and plugged into his. I asked what he was doing, he said that he needed to charge. As more EVs come online, there will
unfortunately probably be more of this happening.
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Next step could be merging the mennekes plug with the red cee plug, to save space and hazzle when the cord mangles up
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hmm, what exactly do you mean? Merging them into one plug? How should that work?
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Not exactly sure, how the locking mechanism would help, if someone deliberately wants to unplug you? There is always a stop button that can be pushed, which will release the plug. The lock can only help against accidentally pulling the plug while charging.
Sure it works!
Since I cutted my plug, I litterally can charge on every station. Also the stations without a female cable are totaly fine.
The only drawback is that after the cutting one losses the locking mechanism function. Personally I never have seen somebody pulling a plug of anybody elses EV. Hope that will stay that way.
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The Mennekes plug has a locking lug that is locked in the EVSE socket when charging starts. The J-connector I use has a small hole in the release-button, where I can put a small padlock so the button cannot be pressed. This way both ends of the cable are locked while charging.
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The Mennekes plug has a locking lug that is locked in the EVSE socket when charging starts. The J-connector I use has a small hole in the release-button, where I can put a small padlock so the button cannot be pressed. This way both ends of the cable are locked while charging.
Yeah, I was just saying that this is no protection from someone deliberately stopping your charging, as the stations typically (at least those that I saw) have a STOP button, which unlocks the station lock.
The locking only helps against accidential unplugging, I think.
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Well, in the Netherlands at least I'll have to find the first EVSE that has an external stop button... Just a place to hold the key fob to stop/start charging, no emergency stop or anything. Yesterday I visited 3 stations, none had an emergency stop I could see anywhere.
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Well, in the Netherlands at least I'll have to find the first EVSE that has an external stop button... Just a place to hold the key fob to stop/start charging, no emergency stop or anything. Yesterday I visited 3 stations, none had an emergency stop I could see anywhere.
OK, then that is apparentky very different in Switzerland :D
So far, I (only) visited three charging stations with Mennekes plug. All three of them had a button to start and to stop charging. Two were rather sophisticated stations that also provided 50kW DC. One was extermely simple, just a small box with a size only slightly bigger that the mennekes socket and the one button.
But maybe that is really different in other countries/areas...
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Well, in the Netherlands at least I'll have to find the first EVSE that has an external stop button... Just a place to hold the key fob to stop/start charging, no emergency stop or anything. Yesterday I visited 3 stations, none had an emergency stop I could see anywhere.
In the netherlands I saw them only on High Power stations like FastNed.
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Ah, that explains. Since I didn't cut the plug (yet) I can't use stations with a provided Mennekes cable...
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Ah, that explains. Since I didn't cut the plug (yet) I can't use stations with a provided Mennekes cable...
Here in Switzerland we have these types of stations also with a type 2 socket.
Also, there is not only the emergency stop button. You are also able to (start and) stop the charging via the touchscreen.
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In Holland, most of the charge point are like on the picture, just a small box on a pole with a light (to indicate free, charging or error) and a spot to hold the RFID tag to start and stop charging. No touchscreen, no stop button, just a type 2 socket.
Other versions are a larger box, but still only a type 2 socket, light and RFID reader
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I just tought about that yesterday...
These flatpack S are not just compact.. they can also take DC at their INPUT !! at up to 250VDC
Witch mean that if you want 10kW+ and add many for ultrafast charging as you dont have may 40A+ level II charge station in your area, it would be possible to connect these to a Chademo or SAE combo DC level 3 charger with the proper interface and connector.
The chademo can do 250Vdc if i remmeber correctly.
Doc
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I just tought about that yesterday...
These flatpack S are not just compact.. they can also take DC at their INPUT !! at up to 250VDC
Witch mean that if you want 10kW+ and add many for ultrafast charging as you dont have may 40A+ level II charge station in your area, it would be possible to connect these to a Chademo or SAE combo DC level 3 charger with the proper interface and connector.
The chademo can do 250Vdc if i remmeber correctly.
Doc
this is likely true of all the chargers we currently use.
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I just tought about that yesterday...
These flatpack S are not just compact.. they can also take DC at their INPUT !! at up to 250VDC
Witch mean that if you want 10kW+ and add many for ultrafast charging as you dont have may 40A+ level II charge station in your area, it would be possible to connect these to a Chademo or SAE combo DC level 3 charger with the proper interface and connector.
The chademo can do 250Vdc if i remmeber correctly.
Doc
this is likely true of all the chargers we currently use.
I believe SCv2 cannot take DC at this point, but I'm told this may be changeable in software. But it kind of defeats the point. If you can get a station to deliver the DC at the right voltage and amperage, it is the charger.
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I just tought about that yesterday...
These flatpack S are not just compact.. they can also take DC at their INPUT !! at up to 250VDC
Witch mean that if you want 10kW+ and add many for ultrafast charging as you dont have may 40A+ level II charge station in your area, it would be possible to connect these to a Chademo or SAE combo DC level 3 charger with the proper interface and connector.
The chademo can do 250Vdc if i remmeber correctly.
Doc
this is likely true of all the chargers we currently use.
I believe SCv2 cannot take DC at this point, but I'm told this may be changeable in software. But it kind of defeats the point. If you can get a station to deliver the DC at the right voltage and amperage, it is the charger.
While I agree, the problem is the implementation (not the spec) of DC fast chargers. They are intended for cars and will not always go low enough to charge the zero. Cars tend to be in the 400v range.
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If the ChaDeMo or CSS standard implements the standard LiPo charge curve of CC/CV then I'm very curious how a chargepoint would react to the type of load an intermediate charger would present, let alone the HF that these PSU's can inject on the powerline...
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If the ChaDeMo or CSS standard implements the standard LiPo charge curve of CC/CV then I'm very curious how a chargepoint would react to the type of load an intermediate charger would present, let alone the HF that these PSU's can inject on the powerline...
The charging curve is not in the charger or CCS protocoll - its in the car. The car asks for specific voltage and current via the communication line and the charger will take care of reaching these values. Basically a PID regulator just like remmie does with his flatpacks to archive a certain current. So you would just need a pcb capable of CCS communication and ask for 250 DC with some current.
Actually I already talked with someone who generally might be able to design a pcb capable of CCS, but as always lack of time will be a huge issue for that.
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I just tought about that yesterday...
These flatpack S are not just compact.. they can also take DC at their INPUT !! at up to 250VDC
Witch mean that if you want 10kW+ and add many for ultrafast charging as you dont have may 40A+ level II charge station in your area, it would be possible to connect these to a Chademo or SAE combo DC level 3 charger with the proper interface and connector.
The chademo can do 250Vdc if i remmeber correctly.
Doc
this is likely true of all the chargers we currently use.
I believe SCv2 cannot take DC at this point, but I'm told this may be changeable in software. But it kind of defeats the point. If you can get a station to deliver the DC at the right voltage and amperage, it is the charger.
While I agree, the problem is the implementation (not the spec) of DC fast chargers. They are intended for cars and will not always go low enough to charge the zero. Cars tend to be in the 400v range.
Actually, I'm told the number of stations that don't meet the proper spec (i.e. ability to provide 90-117v DC) are quite low, that there was a chademo network using the bad stations that was poised to grow rapidly and then didn't and that good Chademo chargers now outnumber the problematic ones. It's a shame the Zero Chademo project hasn't revived. It's a shame they aren't providing some older units to some trusted outside parties for testing (hint hint)
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And in addition, a CCS system, which is a derivate, while we're at it although ChaDeMo would be awesome already ;)
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Actually, I'm told the number of stations that don't meet the proper spec (i.e. ability to provide 90-117v DC) are quite low, that there was a chademo network using the bad stations that was poised to grow rapidly and then didn't and that good Chademo chargers now outnumber the problematic ones. It's a shame the Zero Chademo project hasn't revived. It's a shame they aren't providing some older units to some trusted outside parties for testing (hint hint)
If that is true, then the only thing holding Chademo back is the lack of open documentation. A small portable connector that lets chademo plug into the charge port would be a cool thing.
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Does anyone know where I can buy a pre-made extension cord that will prevent me from having to constantly plug in my auxiliary chargers into the Anderson port?
It would be so nice to access the auxiliary charger while standing! ;)
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Well, I just made one myself.. I found this grabbing and searching for the anderson also very unpractical.
I put on one end the brown Anderson and on the other side a bigger version, which can be put in a rubber environmental boot. It fits nicely in this little corner. It's a SB-120 if I remember correctly.
This sits on the right side of the bike, feels more naturual to have it on this side.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/ceae6b138df393f5462889ed2d1f2efa.jpg)
It's a human right to have a little extender ;-)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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... I put on one end the brown Anderson and on the other side a bigger version, which can be put in a rubber environmental boot. It fits nicely in this little corner. ...
I like the holster effect.
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Well, I just made one myself.. I found this grabbing and searching for the anderson also very unpractical.
I put on one end the brown Anderson and on the other side a bigger version, which can be put in a rubber environmental boot. It fits nicely in this little corner. It's a SB-120 if I remember correctly.
This sits on the right side of the bike, feels more naturual to have it on this side.
Hi wijnand71
How do you charge without the charge enable resistor between aux+ and the signal pin in the sbs75?
If you have the resistor on your sbs75, then how do you drive without unplugging at the aux sbs75?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hi, yes that would be great if that was working! :o But no, I'll use it together with the onboard cable plugged in..
On my dual eltek FP2000 charger I made phase 1 going out the charger to the onboard and phase 2 and 3 to the FP's. A bit a hassle with 3 different cables coming out the charger, but it works.
I hope after my summer holiday I can lower the amount of wires with a full control and build in QuadPack 8)
Code is going the right way now, Remmie created some new code and now we can adjust the incoming current based on the power available. Even on very low SOC we can control the charge.
So, you select with the pushbutton the appropriate source and the charger will charge with this current. Onboard included.
Current steps are now:
6A 1phase, onboard draws 5.4 A, 0.6 A left for the FP.
10A 1phase, onboard 5.4A, 6.6 left for the FP’s
16A 1phase max
16A 2phase. max. on phase for the FP’s, onboard is fed on another group
16A 3 phase onboard on 1 fase, and the 2 sets FP’s on the 2 other phases limiteted to 16A
32A 3 phase going max...
But still testing though..
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Those are perfect!!!! Please let me know where you got the parts and how you fixed them up. This is the best thing since sliced bread.
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You can tell the stock onboard charger to charge at a lower rate? That would be super useful for small solar powered charging. How's that possible to make it draw less power?
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unfortunately not Shadow,
The onboard charger is not influenced. At 230 Volt the current draw of the onboard is around 5.4 Amps. So the lowest step (6 A) takes that into account and sets the output voltage of the flatpacks to have the flatpacks draw 0.6 Amps. The same applies to the other steps for 1 phase (or rather 1 circuit) settings.
When on 2 phase/circuit setting the input current of the onboard is disregarded (because it is assumed it is on another circuit) and only the current of the 2 sets of Flatpacks is calculated. This would have both sets of flatpacks draw 8A each, totaling 16A on the flatpack phase.
The 3 phase 16A setting is for 11kW three phase charging stations which are widely used in Europe (Netherlands)
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> Code is going the right way now, Remmie created some new code and now we can adjust the incoming current based on the power available. Even on very low SOC we can control the charge.
> So, you select with the pushbutton the appropriate source and the charger will charge with this current. Onboard included.
Current steps are now:
> 6A 1phase, onboard draws 5.4 A, 0.6 A left for the FP.
> 10A 1phase, onboard 5.4A, 6.6 left for the FP’s
> 16A 1phase max
> 16A 2phase. max. on phase for the FP’s, onboard is fed on another group
> 16A 3 phase onboard on 1 fase, and the 2 sets FP’s on the 2 other phases limiteted to 16A
> 32A 3 phase going max...
You got code?
Something like https://github.com/nsayer/hydra/blob/master/EV_Sim_84/EV_Sim_84.ino ?
From this project: https://hackaday.io/project/9051-j1772-ev-simulator
EV Simulator seems to have good insight into EV station signalling, so I ordered one, will report back.
I'm thinking to adapt the device and the code so switch B is hall effect, no moving parts, and cast the whole think in a clear medium for durability and waterproofness. But I'll build it as is and test it first. Switch A can probably be shorted permanently and switch C can be ignored, it looks like.
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I'm seriously considering going this route, using the Eltek Flatpack S 241122.125 rectifiers. Any advice on how to acquire them? Looks like I may want to do a switchable configuration based on the J1772 duty cycle logic to either put 2S or 2S 2P or 2S 3P. Or perhaps simple manual switching scheme after visually reading the charge station specs. If things work out I'd be in the market for 10+ units (my father is keen on getting up to speed with quick charging his bike, as am I (assuming the DigiNow folks don't have a solution (it would preferred if they did to save all the engineering work)).
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Hi, I have a problem setting default voltage on 1 out of 4 flatpacks and wonder if somebody has any advice.
Thanks for a great forum thread with lots of info how to make a fast charger. I have ordered a Zero DSR and 4 FLATPACK2 40/2000 HE's and i am working on making a charger for my own bike. However i have hit a problem.
I have tried to program all the flatpacks to default to 57 volts. 3 of the flatpacks works immediately, but the last one will not acknowledge my command (see below). I am able to set it up to output 57 volts as long as i am logged in, but i would prefer to work with a system without any microcontrollers at least initially and thus need to be able to set the default voltage.
I am using a raspberry pi + a modified MCP2515 board ( https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=141052 (https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=141052) ),
so i will paste linux can command lines & output.
Working flatpack:
can0 05004804 [8] 09 32 71 11 23 41 00 00 <-- login command sent by raspberry pi
can0 05014004 [8] 1F 00 00 3F 16 EB 00 20
can0 05014004 [8] 1F 00 00 3E 16 EB 00 20
can0 05002341 [8] 1B 09 32 71 11 23 41 00
can0 05014004 [8] 1F 00 00 3C 16 EB 00 20
can0 05019C00 [5] 29 15 00 44 16 <-- request to set default voltage
can0 05019C00 [8] 2B 15 00 44 16 00 00 00 <-- acknowledgement for default voltage command (i assume)=
can0 05014004 [8] 1F 00 00 3C 16 EB 00 20
Non working flatpack:
can0 05000461 [8] 1B 09 07 71 14 44 61 00
can0 05000461 [8] 1B 09 07 71 14 44 61 00
can0 05004804 [8] 09 07 71 14 44 61 00 00
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DE 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DF 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DC 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05000461 [8] 1B 09 07 71 14 44 61 00 <-- login command sent by raspberry pi ( i have also tried with 8 bytes)
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DC 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DC 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DE 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DC 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DA 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DC 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DE 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DE 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05019C00 [5] 29 15 00 44 16 <-- request to set default voltage
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DE 14 EC 00 2C <-- No acknowledgement, just status info
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DE 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DE 14 EC 00 2C
can0 05000461 [8] 1B 09 07 71 14 44 61 00
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DF 14 EC 00 2C
I have tried some other commands, but they give responses regardless if i am logged in or not and does not change the default voltage.
can0 05014400 [8] 09 07 71 14 44 61 00 00
can0 05000C00 [5] 29 15 00 80 16 <-- other command
can0 05019C01 [8] 09 00 00 00 80 16 00 00 <-- response
can0 05000461 [8] 1B 09 07 71 14 44 61 00
Set high voltage (inside login session for non working flatpack):
can0 05000461 [8] 1B 09 07 71 14 44 61 00 <-- login
can0 05004804 [8] 09 07 71 14 44 61 00 00
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 E1 14 ED 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DF 14 ED 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DE 14 ED 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 DF 14 ED 00 2C
can0 05FF4004 [8] 64 00 44 16 44 16 3E 17 <-- set current & voltage (this causes the voltage to go to 57. volts until the login session times out)
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 91 15 ED 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 C6 15 ED 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 F5 15 ED 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 26 16 ED 00 2C
can0 05000461 [8] 1B 09 07 71 14 44 61 00
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 3C 16 ED 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 38 16 ED 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 38 16 ED 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 36 16 ED 00 2C
can0 05014004 [8] 23 03 00 3C 16 ED 00 2C
I also initially followed the procedure in http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5928.msg44310#msg44310 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5928.msg44310#msg44310) before i started debugging.
I hope to document how i am making the charger to help others later.
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Is there maybe just a typo in the serial nr of the flatpack? Have you double checked it? Otherwise the rectifier might have a wrong label on it.
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I think the label is wrong, i have not made sense out of any of the labels so i have used the serials reported on the can bus.
I am only able to log in used the reported serial. However then i do that i get more frequent updates, and i am able to set the voltage using the serial i have provided. The voltage stays until the more frequent updates sieze. Also i am able to set the slow walk in, which is persistent during power cycles.
The printed serial is : 103871171760 i am not sure how to transform it to the can bus commands.
cansend can0 05004804#10387117176000 which does not work
cansend can0 05004804#09077114446100 is the one that works.
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If the other 3 are programming fine, the code itself should be OK
Tge serial number looks OK to me too
Only thing i notice is that the output current is not 0 but 0,3 amps. Is something connected to the output? It could be that default programming is only possible with no output current. It's just a wild guess
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I have nothing connected (except my multimeter). However i had that on the 3 other flatpacks too, and i was able to program them. I unfortunately do not have any load which i dare put that much into.
I am wondering if the programming command is dependent on the serial number in any way, or that the firmware is locked in some fashion.
I have ordered a leonardo board so i can worst case attach that permanently and program that to log in and keep the voltage.
I tried to disconnect everything, but i still get:
can0 05014004 [8] 23 02 00 E5 14 EA 00 27
and no acknowledgements.
I will let it rest for an hour without power and see if i can get it to report no current.
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Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I let it rest for a night, but no success:
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 5D 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05004805 [8] 09 07 71 14 44 61 00 00
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 5F 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 63 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 63 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 65 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 66 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 68 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05019C00 [5] 29 15 00 44 16
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 6A 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 6C 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 6E 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 70 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 70 11 E9 00 1B
can0 05014010 [8] 1A 00 00 77 11 E9 00 1B
The amperage goes to 0100 after around 10 sec of power (before the walk in is complete) on and eventually goes to 0200.
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Anyone with a ZERO in Brisbane or nearby (gold or sunshine coast) I have a free power supply i was planning on to use to make a zero fast charger.
You need knowledge of how to do this.
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7198.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7198.0)
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It seems like 05019C00#2901004516 05019C00#2905004516 are valid commands, i.e that the set voltage command is a bitfield. At least they work with my strange flatpack.
the 05019C00#2901004516 command can be used to set up a voltage. This may be useful if somebody wants to control a flatpack without logging in.
It will be kept until the device power cycles, or some body logs in and the session times out. It even seems to work without logging in once, and also if the can bus is disconnected (stops acknowledging the packets).
I am not sure what #2905... does i can't see it affect the voltage, but it is acknowledged by the flatpack.
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Hi,
As FLATPACK 2 HE is sometimes mentionned in this thread I wonder if someone could be kind enough to tell me what kind and how many schottky diodes do !i have to buy (I sourced almost everything but i need this information to complete my mouser order).
The configuration will be 2 x 48v RECTIFIER 48/3000 (around 66 amps DC out, if I'm correct).
Thanks a lot !