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Mine looks close to that.  I don't think I put the bolt thru enough so it's flared but the distance from the face of the side plate to the top of the flare is fairly small.  Instead of having say 3 mm standout, mine is probably 1 or so, it's flared pretty close TO the side plate.  it's not stiff, it feels about like the other ones and so far has held several hundred miles with no noticeable issues, still though, I will probably redo it when I get back off the track from this weekends stints and am doing bike maintenance on both of the bikes and have a day to do all my 'bike stuff' and get it done properly this time!

Aaron

Thanks for the vid.  I pretty much know the parts I messed up now, and know what NOT to do next time i play with the chain.

Im using did chains and it's in spec as you mentioned, but real close to the front of the plate, like I probably should have pushed the pin thru a bit more so a bit more was sticking out the other side. 

There does not seem to be any published spec (that I could find) on the correct seating depth for a DID master link side plate. The official DID chain tool includes 2 pockets that act as stops when the plate is properly seated.
I normally press plates to a depth similar to the other links in the chain, always verify the links are not bound up due to excesses clamping force. My logic is the other links use the same O/X rings as the master link so the clamping force should match.

This video gives a nice close up shot of a properly pressed master link @ 14:03


The proper flare will depend on the specific chain being used
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0614/8253/3026/files/2022_Flare_Dimensions.pdf?v=1670337654

I originally typed this up last week right as the forum went down. Thankfully I always copy my messages before clicking post. 

So my chain, has about 8k on it, was extensively cleaned, and re adjusted (seems to be happening fairly often now) and it has a tick in it.  I can feel it when riding, tick tick tick every time it goes around the front sprocket.

I am aware this is probably a significant wear spot, the chain has a fairly large slop span, it can get tight to the point of barely making minimum clearance of 30 mm to over 50 mm at it's loosest spot when rotating the wheel to look for the loose spot to adjust from.

Thank you for identifying your chain has tight and loose spots and setting the slack at the tightest point. That is something that a lot of people overlook. If you adjust your chain slack at a loose spot this will result in an overly tight chain for a part of it's rotation. A tight chain will put excessive loads on the wheel and motor pinion bearings that may result in their failure.

That being said having a chain that is almost twice as loose for some of it's travel can cause excessive chain slap when accelerating. This slack allows the motor to generate greater pulling force before it is able to transmit that force to the rear wheel. If you punch an object starting with your fist 1" away from it the amount of energy you can exert is minimal, the further away from the object you start the more energy you can generate.
If the force applied to your chain is greater than its tensile strength this may result in a chain failure. A chain can store a lot of energy if all that energy is released in a short period of time (snap) it can do some serious damage.

Sprockets and chains tend to wear together. The chain rollers are in contact with various parts of a sprockets teeth during normal riding. The harder you accelerate the more this load is focused onto the left side of the front sprockets teeth and the right side of the rear sprockets teeth. During constant speed riding the load is focused closer to the root of the teeth. During regen there is a load (less than during acceleration) applied to the opposite face of the teeth. This is why bikes tend to sound different when you run them in reverse.

As a battery ages, it's voltages / oomph WILL drop.
Your trips demands have not dropped, ie you still need 45  kilowatts, just to throw a number out there..to hit 90 Mph, but your batteries ability to easily produce it have dropped.   What the battery can't give in volts, the system will make up for in Amps.  Plain and simple Amps = Heat.
When brand new, that 100 amp draw on your battery may have dropped the terminal voltage 12 volts under load.  Now that the cells are a few years old, it's dropping that terminal voltage 20 volts, again, just throwing numbers out there as an example.  So now, it's now pulling more amps to get that 45 KW your trip demands.  Amps = Heat.

You may not have hit your thermal limit in the past, but been darn close to it, and now that you are pulling an extra 20 amps, again just a number, you have pushed it past that boundary and are seeing it now.

Also, and just throwing this out there,  road conditions can make a difference too.  Back then the road may have been a lot smoother, so travel a bit easier, you ONLY needed 45 KW, now the roads are a few years shittier, (welcome to florida) and need 50 KW,  more amps - more heat.  Did you put on 50 Lbs since then?  fat asses need more power than lean asses   Maybe they also have a battery age derating thrown in the overall calcs for it too?  His battery is 3 years old, he don't need to be pushing it at 98 percent of it's limit at this age, lets tone his top end down a bit so it makes the full 5 years of warranty.  Instead of letting him cook them to 160 Degrees before being concerned, lets drop that to 150.  Airflow can get full of dirt / dust / mud daubers.  Oxidized aluminum don't bleed heat as efficiently as fresh clean aluminum in the air cooled case.

Many things can all add up to finally ding you.

Aaron

Isn't Zero pretty much Divesting from the US?  Didn't they move their 'focus' to India or somewhere like that?

As for Energica, I think they pretty much have the bikes currently where they want them, and were spending more on playing catch up with all the Experia orders, and not so much on further R and D.  I mean why make cosmetic changes mostly (besides for the few sales to those who just GOT TO have the newest, fanciest) when the original ones are not selling well.

It's not like E bike sales just honestly fell off a cliff, they seen the cooling / souring coming for a bit, they meaning ALL the companies, and Energica not being one of the ones belly up to the US Govt corrupt feeding trough decided to hold back for a year or so to see where the market is going and not throw good money after bad money?    Honestly, the EGO, and Ribelle are pretty fuggin awesome as they are, will kick the shit out of most anything else out there already.  They got into the cruising side with the Experia.  Are in the classic / semi cruising side with the SS9, they pretty much got most the bases covered.

To be honest though, and perhaps I just live in a part of the country where you just don't see any but, I never really see any advertising for them.  Even back when I got mine a year or so ago, I kind of stumbled upon it via a generic google search, it's not like something really jumped out at me or I seen a flyer and said Oh Boy!!   Don't know anymore now that the entire E vehicle market, except for maybe bicycles, is very suppressed if it'd help much, I mean even Tesla is laying folks off, and the other Big 3 have said, now wait a minute, lets take another look at this and severely curtailed their plans for massive e roll outs over the next few years.

I hope they can weather the storm, but to be honest, they do most their work inhouse right?  That right there gives them a lot of strength that the others may not necessarily have.  (So why can't you stamp out some centerstands?).  Also the fact that you CAN charge the thing just about everywhere, including quickly, is really a strong selling point too.  Tesla you HAVE to goto a tesla station or have one of THEIR chargers, the other vehicles you HAVE to have one of their / a CCS charger, an Energica, for a 40 dollar charger, yes they ARE that cheap some places, you can find a plug at a coffee house, just a regular run of the mill wall plug, and charge the thing, you are NOT really going to get stranded unless it's a total power blackout.  Even then a cheap genrator, or a solar panel and a cheap inverter and you are right back in business if you really must.

I think there is a solid market for E vehicles, and well, it IS coming, but let them get the infrastructure part sorted out first, and charging stations out, and possibly newer tech / methods that don't take an hour and a half to charge for just another 300 miles and I bet they start selling a lot faster again.  THAT right there I think is the biggest killer of the E renaissance is the fear of stranding due to no charging close by for many.

Let's not also forget, battery tech, because currently, electric vehicles and colder climates just really is NOT a thing yet.  Maybe super caps or some hybrid will fix this?  There's a lot of work to be done yet, and it's not all just new tech / innovation type either.

Aaron

Don, just have it delivered up and back.  You clearly have the money.

As an employee Morgan should know, how does the Energica-dealer setup work?  Does the dealer just give them floor space and get a cut of the sale price or do they pay a portion up front and own/finance the bikes?

Even if the bikes weren't selling they should have tried to keep them as a service center since they had to have had techs that knew the bikes.

Now might be a good time to point out I haven't seen a single 2024 listing for Energica or Zero on Cycle Trader and it's almost Summer.

Hi, Im asking about my 2020 SRS, bought new in Sept 2020. I've put a bit over 50k miles on it. 

When it was new, I don't ever remember the battery thermal limit slowing me down. I used a highway section of about 28 miles to go to work and I could go 100 mph the whole way, sometimes going full power to 124 in bursts. This was in the daytime in Florida. Hot. Rarely I would hit the motors thermal limit but I don't ever remember the battery being an issue. The way home was the same, riding at night.

Now the highway portion of my trip is a bit shorter, 21.5 miles. I hit the thermal limit on the battery nearly every trip back and forth.
If I hold it to 90mph, no problem, I may hit the yellow by the end but its ok. If i try to hold it at 95 mph I will hit the thermal limit and get slowed somewhere around the 19-20 mile area of the trip. Faster than that, the battery thermal limit activates even sooner. I never see the motor get warm at all. If I keep it in the 80's there is no limiting issue.

If I was to try, intentionally, to make the motor thermal limit I would never get close. The battery limit would kick in well before that.

The battery pack performance seems to be normal otherwise, and the capacity is still about 11kwh or so. There is no difference in range that I can see at all. That's excellent, good as new.

So my question(s): Is that, thermally, normal battery response for those conditions? Am I asking too much? Maybe Zero changed the battery pack thermal limits in a firmware update or something? IDK. Just curious was other's experience with this is.



 

Blame yourself for a refreshing change.  People told you to get it done and you kept making excuses, now it bit you in the ass.

Aaron

What I would like to know is who I should blame, Energica or A&S?  I purchased the bike at A&S, but they say Energica took back their FW updating equipment so Energicas can no longer be serviced at A&S cycles.  That's pretty bad that A&S  cannot service a new bike they sold me 13 months ago with a simple FW update.


Is Energica's service going way downhill?



BTW, in case anybody was wondering why I waited so long, there were two reasons.  At first, the bike was in Reno and a ton of snow over the summit so I could not get the bike here.


By the time the weather got better,  my best friend in Reno was having serious health problems and I had to help him out in many ways. He died last week, so now I have a lot more free time to stay here in Auburn and get things like the bike FW done--I thought.


Next closeted is Livermore, CA. But I hear they cannot do a FW update while waiting, so that involves two people for a 270-mile (435 km)  round trip.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

It was an odd brown color, like a tan, not UPS tan a bit lighter.

Aaron