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[KuRi]

I have a "similar" problem with my dsr rear brake. The light engages only when I press hard (but it works 100% of the time).

Do you know how to adjust the rear brake switch sensitivity?

Thanks!

[Richard230]

I have a "similar" problem with my dsr rear brake. The light engages only when I press hard (but it works 100% of the time).

Do you know how to adjust the rear brake switch sensitivity?

Thanks!

I don't believe that stop light switches that are activated by the hydraulic pressure in the brake line can be adjusted.

However, the front brake uses a micro-switch located under the brake lever pivot and I am pretty sure that can be adjusted slightly, but it is kind of fiddly to get it just right. I have mine adjusted so that it clicks just as the lever is moved and that will activate both the brake light and my regen, which is set to function at 100% when the front brake lever is moved slightly. Since I always use my front brake when using my rear brake, that makes sure that the brake light is on even when  braking very lightly.

[Crissa]

Wouldn't you have to adjust the brake caliper to adjust when the light came on, if it's triggered by line pressure?

-Crissa

[KuRi]

Wouldn't you have to adjust the brake caliper to adjust when the light came on, if it's triggered by line pressure?

-Crissa

Do you mean by bleeding the system? or are there any other adjustments?
I think that is the last thing I have to adjust to have a 100% perfectly enjoyable zero (now it is only 99% XD)

Cheers!

[TheRan]

There's no adjustment to be made, the best you could possibly do is replace the sensor for a more sensitive one (I think it's located in the cap of the master cylinder). The sensor takes a certain amount of force to trip and that means a certain amount of force on the brake pedal. Well, I suppose you could adjust the leverage ratio (lengthening the fore part of the pedal or shortening the aft part) but that's not an adjustment that's built in so would require some fabrication,

[KuRi]

Thanks, the problem is that I also notice that the brake takes some more pressure to act that I am used to... in example when I am at a stop in a hill, I need to concentrate and make some pressure to be sure the motorcycle don't goes down the hill, and it is something I never had with other bikes.

That's what I am thinking a bleed is needed and will solve both problems...

Thanks!

[Richard230]

Thanks, the problem is that I also notice that the brake takes some more pressure to act that I am used to... in example when I am at a stop in a hill, I need to concentrate and make some pressure to be sure the motorcycle don't goes down the hill, and it is something I never had with other bikes.

That's what I am thinking a bleed is needed and will solve both problems...

Thanks!

I have noticed the same thing, but I am pretty sure that it (likely) has nothing to do with air in the rear brake system.  What I believe is that the lack of good grip at the rear brake has to do with either the selection of a hard brake pad by Zero or J.Juan, or the design of the rear brake hydraulic system, which does not put as much pressure on the brake pads as do the systems in some other motorcycles.  And I think the reasoning for this design is because Zeros have a regeneration braking system that adds to the normal brake force and Zero was attempting to compensate for this feature by reducing the typical rear brake friction.  So if you want increased friction at the rear brake your best bet is to change brake pads to an aftermarket pad manufacturer, such as EBC.

I should add that the symptom of a brake system that needs bleeding to get air out of the line is that the peddle feels "squishy" when at rest and you are pressing down on the brake.  A system without air will feel hard when pressing on the brake, but one with air in the system will feel soft and move maybe as much as an inch as the lever is pressed with your foot.

[KuRi]

Thanks for your comments Richard...

The first time I noticed this it was not related to the light or the brake force. It was related to the regeneration.

It takes some pressure to make the brake regeneration starts. However with the front lever, it takes only a small pressure and it works very well...

I use to ride at custom setting, with no auto regen, only brake regen, and I need to press the rear brake hard to engage the regen, while a little pull on the front brake will activate it.

This means to me that everything on the rear brake is bad adjusted, and a single good adjust would fix all three problems (regen, light and brake force). It looks like there is not enough pressure on the sensor or the circuit or both.

However, the rear brake lever feels ok to me, hard and firm. It is just that requires more pressure that I am used to

[Richard230]

Thanks for your comments Richard...

The first time I noticed this it was not related to the light or the brake force. It was related to the regeneration.

It takes some pressure to make the brake regeneration starts. However with the front lever, it takes only a small pressure and it works very well...

I use to ride at custom setting, with no auto regen, only brake regen, and I need to press the rear brake hard to engage the regen, while a little pull on the front brake will activate it.

This means to me that everything on the rear brake is bad adjusted, and a single good adjust would fix all three problems (regen, light and brake force). It looks like there is not enough pressure on the sensor or the circuit or both.

However, the rear brake lever feels ok to me, hard and firm. It is just that requires more pressure that I am used to

I think that is by design and is not something that you can adjust.  I wouldn't be surprised that if you replaced the parts with new ones from Zero it probably wouldn't make any difference.  Personally, I hardly ever use the rear brake. I do most of my braking using only the front brake, unless I need to panic stop, at which time I use both brakes.  But that almost never happens to me.

[Crissa]

I use mostly the rear brake for control and the front for regen, but...

...If the sensor isn't popping on, that's a safety issue.  Is the caliper even contacting the rotor at that?

-Crissa

[KuRi]

Everything is working, it is just that the rear brake takes more pressure than the front brake to activate the sensor, and more pressure that I am used to until I see the light on (maybe not that much, and I am just putting too much attention on that).

Everything looks fine to me. I also removes brake pads, cleaned everything, and took a look at the installation and everything is fine. ABS is working correctly, no noise, no overheating...

I am too obsessive with these small details

Thanks for all the comments.

[gadgetgirl]

Just to chime in here, I had the same problem with cruise on my SR/F. The front brake switch was flakey, and ended up failing completely at ~1000 miles on the odometer, meaning the brake lights were not activated, so the electrical connection was broken. It still applied brakes, fortunately. I just recently had the switch replaced under warranty.