Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Shadow]

The insulation is peeling away on the middle port of my SCv2 unit as well. Any idea about a fix for that?

[dukecola]

The insulation is peeling away on the middle port of my SCv2 unit as well. Any idea about a fix for that?

I wouldn't worry about it, it's not really insulation, each wire itself is insulated. I think the wire cover you are concerned about is just to prevent chaffing of the wires. Nothing to worry about where it's not covered at the port. Perhaps Brendan can comment but that's my take.

[Shadow]

The insulation is peeling away on the middle port of my SCv2 unit as well. Any idea about a fix for that?

I wouldn't worry about it, it's not really insulation, each wire itself is insulated. I think the wire cover you are concerned about is just to prevent chaffing of the wires. Nothing to worry about where it's not covered at the port. Perhaps Brendan can comment but that's my take.

Okay I did get to chat with Brandon about a few topics and it seems you're right it is a non-issue.  Nice install you've got there!

[Erasmo]

Base mounting plate for the modules. .019 Aluminum 2024-T3. Drilled and ready to mount modules. I will be drilling vent holes in the base plate and the bottom of the top box that will be directly above the Givi top box universal mounting plate. The elcon's fans will draw cool air into the box from below and push the hot air out the top. Ultimately I want to be able to charge with the top box cover closed, not propped open. I'm still searching for the perfect vent grill. 

If you want to charge with the top case closed, there is also a water cooling option available.

I have my top box in this position. I do tend to clip it with my foot when getting on though.

Can you show a picture?

[Justin Andrews]

Sure, I'll sort something out at the weekend.
I'm using a Givi E251 monokey plate, which has lots of mounting holes (actually diamond shaped recesses), so all I did was use the ones right at the back of the plate to bring it as far forwards as possible.

[Shadow]

Related writeup on Luggage Rack Installation (Zeromanual)

[dukecola]

Sure, I'll sort something out at the weekend.
I'm using a Givi E251 monokey plate, which has lots of mounting holes (actually diamond shaped recesses), so all I did was use the ones right at the back of the plate to bring it as far forwards as possible.

That's the plate I have, but I mounted mine all the way to rear because I carry a passenger. If you mount charger in a top box, as forward as you can go is better.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I have this plate as well, and had it forward until my girlfriend went along for a ride and complained about the positioning.

I'm starting to think we could put some suitable rails on the top rack to slide the case forward and back with anchor points.

[dukecola]

Base mounting plate for the modules. .019 Aluminum 2024-T3. Drilled and ready to mount modules. I will be drilling vent holes in the base plate and the bottom of the top box that will be directly above the Givi top box universal mounting plate. The elcon's fans will draw cool air into the box from below and push the hot air out the top. Ultimately I want to be able to charge with the top box cover closed, not propped open. I'm still searching for the perfect vent grill. 

If you want to charge with the top case closed, there is also a water cooling option available.

I have my top box in this position. I do tend to clip it with my foot when getting on though.

Can you show a picture?

Yes, I've seen the watercooled version, but I'm trying to keep weight down.  Actually what I think I'm going to do for top vents is mount two J1772 female inlets with guts removed on the lid of the case above the fans. This way, when not charging, can just close the cover and make it waterproof. All the other vents I've looked at are not waterproof, especially if mounted horizontally. The female inlet might be perfect.

[dukecola]

I have this plate as well, and had it forward until my girlfriend went along for a ride and complained about the positioning.

I'm starting to think we could put some suitable rails on the top rack to slide the case forward and back with anchor points.

That's a good idea, or mounts case on sliding rails like under cabinet garbage bins, lock in different locations with a pin lock.

[dukecola]

Vent holes drilled in bottom of case. I plan on drilling more, what I've done so far doesn't seem to have effected rigidity of the case so I'll be adding some more. These holes are above the GIVI top case mounting plate grid. I removed the thin plastic cover plate from the GIVI that covers the grid.  The vents I drilled are above the grid plate so should get nice airflow. I dry fitted some Rubatex goalie mask foam, the charging assembly will sit on a nice cushion. Yes, I know the Elcons are shock resistant, but with this foam it really absorbs impact.  I use to take 100mph slapshots to the facemask and this foam really absorbed most of the shock.  Three more steps to go, Brandon found 2 bare J1772 inlets he's sending me to use as waterproof vent caps for the top; my seat guy will be making me a leather pocket to store the wires that go to the aux port, and last step, installing the J1772 power inlet thru the case wall.  The GIVI case is kind of tricky because it has curved walls so the inlet wont mount completely flat and sealed. I'm going to fabricate a rubber gasket that is thicker on the area that is curved so it seals up nice.  In retrospect, a Trekker case would have made this project much easier.

[dukecola]

Making progress but had to use a different top case, the Givi E360 just didn't have enough room and the curved walls made locating a place to mount the inlet and vents difficult. So, I picked up this Kappa KGR52 which is Givi's Italian version of the Trekker. Pretty much same case except doesnt have the quick access door like the Trekker.



The inlet installed pretty easily on the bottom. I used aluminum supports on the inside to stiffen up the mount to the case floor.   I didn't want it flexing the plastic and causing fatigue.  It doesn't flex at all.


Here's how the J1772 plug attaches.


Now, I need to do some wire routing cleanup, get the top vents in, and drill exit hole out the front for the wires that go to the aux port.  This pouch will cover the exit hole and store the cable. This will mount on the case under the passenger backrest.

[dukecola]

Progressing. Mounted the wire pass thru fitting  under the backrest. I used waterproof electrical fittings found on Amazon, gutted the outlet part out and trimmed down the plastic that was holding the outlet.

This is what the back of the fitting looks like inside the case. The wires pass thru very nicely.

Screwed the pouch on the case under the backrest. The pass-thru fitting is inside the pouch.

This is how the fitting looks inside the pouch. I cut a slit on bottom of pouch to rout the wires into the case, then thru the fitting to inside the case.

Next step is shielding the wires out of the aux port and securing them along the side of the bike so they dont flap in the wind.  Waiting some for black aviation grade silicone tape to arrive. Will wrap the wires with this tape (think heat shrink cable covers only way more durable). I may even use liquid rubber to paint the exposed end wires where the Anderson connector meet the wrap.

[Justin Andrews]

I'd be tempted to run them through the rear plastics, and then under the seat.

[Shadow]

I'd be tempted to run them through the rear plastics, and then under the seat.

The only thing needed from the SCv2 charging array is access to is the AUX charging port. No need to route through the internals of the bike.