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[Frank]

Thanks for the info Brian.  I'm assuming you felt you had sufficient steering lock?

Are you riding again?

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I don't know what you mean by "steering lock", and I'll infer that you're talking about steering stability and getting the steering to a dangerous wobble that hits the stops.

The steering would not wobble easier than stock, and did not display any unstable or anti-stable tendencies. I could let go of the (DSR) steering at speed and not get a wobble unless the pavement perturbed it, and then it was very calm to correct. I don't know about an SR's tendencies.

I was honestly more concerned that the fairing mount fatigue would add up and drift the dustbin downwards or allow wobble that the wheel might scrape on. This did not happen, thankfully, and I logged about 20-25k miles on it before switching to the Hollywood Electrics fairing.

I will also say that the square-ish profile of the DBL2, unique among these fairings, reduced my lean angle noticeably to the point where I had vinyl strips on the corners to absorb road scrapes. For what it's worth, the DBL2 is the "show bike" dustbin, and is featured on most retro mods involving dustbin fairings. It's an impractical fairing.

Finally, I am not riding yet, except those urban rental sit-down scooters in full gear a few times. I'm getting my stomach tube removed on Monday which leaves my face and dental surgery to restore upper teeth as the limiting factor over the next couple months.

[Frank]

More great info - thanks.  By steering lock I mean lock-to-lock i.e. was the front tire hitting the inside of the fairing at full lock?  It seems not...

Good luck with the rest of your recovery.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Right. I cleared that up during fabrication. The wheel cutout has to be made by the customer - Airtech can't predict that. The DBL2 (unlike DBL1 which has no holes as-delivered) does come with a pre-made wheel slot for straight-ahead fitment, but you'll swing the steering back and forth and then cut to get the right total clearance.

[shayan]

Thank you Frank! I'll try to contact them and check if they still make those. I'll need to get some details on the kind of dimensions they have with their fender to know the brackets i'll need for a Zero.
You mentioned you have not yet tried the fender that you bought?

It would be interesting to know some real world results.

-Shayan

[Frank]

I haven't had a chance to mount the fender yet.  Maybe this year, lol, but I've had a couple of other e-race vehicles I've been working on.  The drag bike is naked and I was hoping to fit a small Airtech fairing I bought about 5 years ago + the Ryno.  The problem with fitting a fairing is that it forces me to sit up more which  means changing the controls around which I've been reluctant to do. It's pretty stable with me laying on the "tank".  If I fit the fairing I'll also fit a wheelie bar as I can only run around 70% controller output at this point.  I need better aero (and the bar!) to do much more.

[shayan]

Found another interesting busa fender here: http://www.1st-to-the-finish-line.com/products/Descriptions/TFF-1.html
Any ideas where i can find measurements of the 1st gen hayabusa to see if this can work for a Zero?

-Shayan

[Frank]

I think that's the fender I use on my street/LSR bike.  (It's quite possibly made by Airtech, not sure.)  The fender is about 8-3/4" between the closest mounts i.e. it's pretty wide.  I had started making a foam "buck" for my drag bike but got sidetracked and never finished it.  Could a standard Zero fender be used to throw a mold which could then be modified?

[shayan]

I think that's the fender I use on my street/LSR bike.  (It's quite possibly made by Airtech, not sure.)  The fender is about 8-3/4" between the closest mounts i.e. it's pretty wide.  I had started making a foam "buck" for my drag bike but got sidetracked and never finished it.  Could a standard Zero fender be used to throw a mold which could then be modified?

Not sure if its been tried before. But i'll be all in if this could be achieved.