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[KuRi]

Hi!

I have read many threads about belt alignment, and while trying to diagnose some bike vibrations I have noticed that my belt is not at the center of the sprocket. Some posts say that is does not matter too much, while others say that this is critical.

Can you please take a look at the picture of my new dsr 2020 and let me know if this is a very bad situation or not? Many thanks

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Yes, it seems the gap from your belt to the sprocket lip is too narrow (consensus seems to be 1mm is suitable).

See https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Gen2/Drive_Belt_Adjustment

I notice that we don't exactly spell out how to move the belt around on the sprocket. Basically, with the bike on a stand and keyed off, roll the rear wheel by hand while gently guiding the belt towards the center with your hand. I'm not sure how to express that better, but it doesn't take much. Roll the wheel more once it's in the center to make sure it tracks perfectly (not going back and forth across the width of the teeth as the wheel rolls).

You shouldn't have to re-tension the belt to do this, but it's good to check tension before and after just in case that's part of the problem.

[DonTom]

Hi!

I have read many threads about belt alignment, and while trying to diagnose some bike vibrations I have noticed that my belt is not at the center of the sprocket. Some posts say that is does not matter too much, while others say that this is critical.

Can you please take a look at the picture of my new dsr 2020 and let me know if this is a very bad situation or not? Many thanks

It looks about right to me in your photo. A credit card should fit between the belt and the edge when you have it right. About 1 MM max. The belt should NOT be centered on the sprocket.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[KuRi]

A credit card should fit between the belt and the edge when you have it right

There is no space between the belt and the lip, it is a shadow on the picture, so I need to tell this to the dealer.

Thanks all for your help and advice

P.D: I have rechecked with more light and there is a gap, very tiny but it is there, maybe around 0.5mm

[DonTom]

A credit card should fit between the belt and the edge when you have it right

There is no space between the belt and the lip, it is a shadow on the picture, so I need to tell this to the dealer.

Thanks all for your help and advice

P.D: I have rechecked with more light and there is a gap, very tiny but it is there, maybe around 0.5mm

Check with the edge of a credit card, see if it fits between the belt and lip.

What I have done to align the belt on the sprocket, lift the bike or rear wheel off the ground, loosen all the related alignment bolts, align the edge of the belt flush to the sprocket on the OPPOSITE side  and then tighten the bolts, spin the wheel a few times and somehow it aligns itself right up to around the correct spacing to the lip. The important things are the spacing to the lip (a CC edge spacing to 1 mm) and the correct belt tightness when you're done, no matter how you do it.

IOW,  the alignment of the belt will change as you tighten those bolts so where you start with the belt is important. And flush to the opposite side away from the lip while  the bolts are loose did the trick for me when the bolts were tightened.

And I have around 10,000 miles on each of my Zeros and have no belt issues.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[KuRi]

Thank you DonTom, very helpful info. Sadly I have no way to lift the bike nor the rear wheel off the ground, so I will ask the dealer to check it.

Regards!

[DonTom]

Thank you DonTom, very helpful info. Sadly I have no way to lift the bike nor the rear wheel off the ground, so I will ask the dealer to check it.Regards!

I strongly recommend you buy one of these for your DSR.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[TheRan]

Thank you DonTom, very helpful info. Sadly I have no way to lift the bike nor the rear wheel off the ground, so I will ask the dealer to check it.Regards!

I strongly recommend you buy one of these for your DSR.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

I've been considering getting one of those, is it safe to jack a DS on the skid plate?

[Richard230]

Thank you DonTom, very helpful info. Sadly I have no way to lift the bike nor the rear wheel off the ground, so I will ask the dealer to check it.Regards!

I strongly recommend you buy one of these for your DSR.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

I've been considering getting one of those, is it safe to jack a DS on the skid plate?

I had no problem jacking a 450 pound 2014 S/wPT completely off of the ground using a platform jack under the "skid plate".  However, I haven't tried it yet with my 2018 S.

[TheRan]

Thank you DonTom, very helpful info. Sadly I have no way to lift the bike nor the rear wheel off the ground, so I will ask the dealer to check it.Regards!

I strongly recommend you buy one of these for your DSR.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

I've been considering getting one of those, is it safe to jack a DS on the skid plate?

I had no problem jacking a 450 pound 2014 S/wPT completely off of the ground using a platform jack under the "skid plate".  However, I haven't tried it yet with my 2018 S.

And the S models have the plastic skid plate unlike the metal one on the DS, so I guess my lightweight model should be fine.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Yeah, a lift under the DS skidplate is fine: https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Lift

The S skidplate seems fine from owner reports, but probably worth a little care.

[DonTom]

I had no problem jacking a 450 pound 2014 S/wPT completely off of the ground using a platform jack under the "skid plate".  However, I haven't tried it yet with my 2018 S.

I have also used it on my 2017 SR with PowerTank with no issues. But use at your own risk. I think it's just some type of hard plastic under the charger on the SR, but metal on the DS. Anyway, I have used it several times on my SR with power tank with no issues.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

Thank you DonTom, very helpful info. Sadly I have no way to lift the bike nor the rear wheel off the ground, so I will ask the dealer to check it.Regards!

I've been considering getting one of those, is it safe to jack a DS on the skid plate?

About "safe" one thing I need to mention is on the lift the Zero is rock stable. Needs no straps or anything. But because of this, it is easy to forget when you bring the bike down that you MUST hold the bike as the wheels start to touch then ground. Or the bike falls over!

No, I have not done such. But I have heard it has happened!

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[ESokoloff]

..........

I notice that we don't exactly spell out how to move the belt around on the sprocket.
.............

At 41,3xx miles & 3 belts, I've performed belt alignment/tension many times & have come up with a procedure.......

(NOTE: This is for a 2016 DSR)



20/30kg tension via a Krikit  https://www.google.com/search?q=krikit&rlz=1C9BKJA_enUS630US630&oq=krikit&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l3.2960j0j9&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

20-30KG
Jacking left screw(bolt) out (adding tension) moves the belt to the right.
Best to get the belt in the correct position (left/right) then adjust tension.
NOTE: Position belt with a right side biases as it will shift to the left when the axle bolt is tightened.     
Because the belt/tension is on the left side you must physically push the wheel counter clockwise.
Use a long screwdriver  (I use a rolling head prybar) to pry the right side towards its jack-screw (or just Smack the tire/rim in the desired direction)
Spin the wheel several times after an adjustment to allow the belt to settle down & find its new position.
NOTE: 1/6 turn of Left jack screw appears to cause a 10KG difference to tension.
Use a 27mm socket to tension axle nut to 102NM (75#/') when compleat (I don't have the correct Metric socket but found that 1-1/16" is close enough to work).
P.S.  Recomend first removing each Jack bolt & grinding down the raised print on the heads to prevent digging into the soft aluminum of the swing arm.
Also apply some anti-seize to the threads before re-installing.