ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

Regarding noisy chain:

Upwards from approx. 30 km/h the gear is the loudest part on my Ribelle. If you ask me, Energica put this spur-toothed gear on the bikes to expressly generate a sound, which I like very much (had a Zero SR/F before).

BTW, nice side effect: If you can hear the chain at 20 km/h it has to be replaced.

Yes sorry of course its the "straight cut or something" gear and not the chain itself. 
At higher speeds it's just mainly windnoise just like many other bikes.

Yeah, once the chain starts to clatter on rolloff it's a convenient indicator that you need to tighten it up. It's a consistent thing I bring up when people talk about losing gears and exhaust which is your limited attention (however much of it you have) is freed up to concentrate on all the other stuff you were missing.

Specter, will you tell what tire pressure you are running, please?

Regarding noisy chain:

Upwards from approx. 30 km/h the gear is the loudest part on my Ribelle. If you ask me, Energica put this spur-toothed gear on the bikes to expressly generate a sound, which I like very much (had a Zero SR/F before).

BTW, nice side effect: If you can hear the chain at 20 km/h it has to be replaced.

No issues with these parts up to now (Germany).

Side fairing incl. mounts
Brake lever
Mirror
License plate holder
Sprockets (front and rear)

Delivery takes usually minimum one week because it is shipped from Italy with standard UPS.

If memory serves me well, the SOH is checked by the bike. My dealer showed me a printout with data when I had my bike there for maintenance at 15000 and 30000 km.
I think the bike records each charging and calcuates.

Here in Germany a company is trying to establish themself as something like a certifying body for used EV batteries. It's name is Aviloo Battery Diagnostics. They measure the charge performance and deduct from that the SOH.

Oh. Don wants to argue with Stephane.

Hi - Germany here.
Standard parts are an issue here as well, as Beauceron was reporting. However if your dealer puts some pressure things might work out differently. I have an Experia.

Positive examples:
- Hand brake lever - 2 weeks
- windshield guide rails (structural parts that run behind the dashboard cover) - 3 weeks
- front fork (seals leaking, no seals as spares available, warranty replacement) - 5 weeks
- hand wind protection - 2 weeks
Negative examples:
- main center stand - forever. Contact at Energica says apart from prototypes no serial center stand has ever been build & shipped

Now my bike has been picked up from the dealer and is at Energica/Modena for warranty repair as diagnosis & repair of sudden shut downs resulting from „low battery / recharge“ at well above 60%SOC… lets see it this is being delayed due to part shortage…

When pack are deffective ( at the cell module level) it can be:

1 - All cell internal resistance are  high = no more usable due to voltage sag too low under load
2 - Magic charge = one or more cell have connection problem in serie ( bad crimp between cells tab) = making voltage sag under load to one or more cells
3 - One or more cell having high internal resistance  = voltage sag anyway which also make the BMS to shut down the power prematurely

for 1, your pack is pretty DEAD
for 2: It is possible to  open the pack and re-crimp or spotweld  the bad cell connection with couple hours labor and patience and care.. but you will have to dig the potting manually without puncturing the cell below. I did it when i reconfigured a ZF2.5 brick into a 51V module for my nefew 's electric ATV. The battery was a situation 1 where all cells were too high internal resistance, but spliting the connection into two seperate groups of 14s in parallel made enough power to get about 2.2kWh out of it and make his mini electric ATV to go 90km

For 3, It is possible to solve the single cell internal resistance problem by paralleling another high C current  low capacity cells to it to rematch to the other cells the internal resistance  and have all internal resistance the same again.  I am making it for a Long brick ZF7.2 that I use as range extender on my 2017 SR. The problem is that the cell group no 17 always charge higher voltage than the rest and always sag lower voltage than the rest under load. My plan is to measure the actual internal resistance of the deffective cell group no 17 and to measure the internal resistance of all other cells and to match the calcualted internal resistance to put in parallel to the problematic  cell. I think that this job really worth if it can save a 7.2kwh battery that already fit in a ZERO if it can cost let say 100$ in material and 4-5 hours of work.. maybe more

So what it involve:
- Measure all the cells internal resistance ( 28 total) by applying a load to the pack direct terminal ( before the contactor), using a 500w or 300W light bulb and measure all the cells voltages with and without the load.
- Find the deffective one that have higher internal resistance than the rest
- Calculate the resistance of the cell to parallel to it to make it having the same internal resistance than the rest ( https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/parallel-resistance-calculator/)
- Open the long brick aluminum sheet that is hardly stick to the putting material inside
- Find the location of the deffective cell  tabs under the semi transparent potting
- Dig with cutter, exacto and grip carefully until you reach the metal tabs
- Unfold the crimped tab
- Solder connections to it and take care to not transfer too much heat to the tabs... or drill a horizontal hole thru the crimped tab and install wires with terminal and screw
- extend these wires outside the pack,
- Connect a permanent high current ( high C rate) NMC chemistry cells
- Redo the load test with the bulb and make sure the voltage sag of all celsl are now the same. If not adjust the cell capacity or C-rate until getting uniform Internal Resistacne on all the channels 

IMPORTANT: YOU MUST HAVE A MINIMUM OF BATTERY DIY SKILL TO MAKE THAT.

I made a video to explain the concept in french but you can use the auto translate as well.
( Dont forget to subscribe to my channel if you like it! there are videos in english and video in Français)

https://youtu.be/5WSYysw-4cM?si=eqSow1lNeui6EjcR

Doc

I have my SR 2017 ( I bought it new in July 2017)

And I was NEVER able to update it yet. I tried many times over the 7 last years without any succes, New gen app or old gen app.

But guess what??  IT WORK LIKE A CHARM since the begining.. and it dont realy need any update so I realy dont care about remaining to the old original Firmware. It work perfect and i can recahrge my battery at t13é2kW during 1005 time and I can still do 230km with a single charge since the begining!

So.. I really dong give a f*** about the firmware update.. I really thing it woudl just make it running all sort of problems.. si when it work... Just dont touch it!!

Doc

Were you aware that your first update MUST be done at a Zero dealer?  After that, you can do all the updates yourself.


I think the same thing is happening again, that the first update needs to be done at dealer because of the new app.


But yeah, if all seems to be working fine, why bother?  Probably it's mainly about the shop making a little money on electric motorcycle service, since they cannot do engine oil changes on Zeros and need to make up for that. So they change the FW version once in awhile . . .


-Don-  Reno, NV