Tech > Tech Help
Steering out of alignment
Richard230:
--- Quote from: firepower on March 13, 2015, 12:25:26 PM ---I dont have a zero, just posted pic from zero 2013 S promo pics, But i hopefully will have a 2015 SR soon :)
--- End quote ---
If that is a 2013 model, it looks like Zero cheaped-out a bit on the upper triple clamp fastening system for the 2014 models. ::)
Cortezdtv:
The 14 triple clamp is stronger than the 13'
14's also use a bigger neck bearing which made it legal to carry 2 riders
The 14s have one less bolt, hence why they look "weaker" on the underside they have more bracing than a 13, and are also thicker overall by about an 1/8 of an inch
Only know all this because I switched my 13 fx to a 14s triple clamp and suspension in the front that way when the Showa actually can be bought I can just slide them in the front forks because the 14 triple clamp has small top diameter and larger bottom unlike the uniform sized 13 fx
Richard230:
--- Quote from: Cortezdtv on March 13, 2015, 08:53:03 PM ---The 14 triple clamp is stronger than the 13'
14's also use a bigger neck bearing which made it legal to carry 2 riders
The 14s have one less bolt, hence why they look "weaker" on the underside they have more bracing than a 13, and are also thicker overall by about an 1/8 of an inch
Only know all this because I switched my 13 fx to a 14s triple clamp and suspension in the front that way when the Showa actually can be bought I can just slide them in the front forks because the 14 triple clamp has small top diameter and larger bottom unlike the uniform sized 13 fx
--- End quote ---
That is interesting. Thanks Cortezdtv. I still recall my 1985 BMW R80. It had an upper triple clamp without any retaining bolts. The top of the fork tubes just slid into the holes in the "clamp's" 1/8" steel plate. :o Needless to say, that bike had handling issues, including a tendency to speed wobble when hitting a large bump. Now I keep an eye out for lots of bolts securing parts. ;)
ihartc4:
Thanks for all of the fast responses. Will try tonight when I get home. Do I unscrew both bolts on the top clamp first and give the handlebar a twist or will it need all three for sure? Bike slipping down fork would suck.
Thanks Cody
Richard230:
--- Quote from: ihartc4 on March 14, 2015, 02:20:03 AM ---Thanks for all of the fast responses. Will try tonight when I get home. Do I unscrew both bolts on the top clamp first and give the handlebar a twist or will it need all three for sure? Bike slipping down fork would suck.
Thanks Cody
--- End quote ---
You need to loosen all of the clamp bolts at each side of the bike. Just to be safe, you can place a box, some wood, or something else under the front of the bike to support the chassis just in case anything slips. At least then the front end won't fall all the way down on to the wheel. But, you do need to loosen the bolts quite a bit before the fork tubes will slide along the clamps. I would turn all of the bolts about 1/4 turn at a time until you feel some movement when twisting the handlebars.
Another idea that I just had was to wrap some duct tape around the fork tubes just under the lower triple clamp. That will keep the clamps from sliding down better than a support under the chassis. A couple of turns of tape around each fork will insure that nothing will slip down. There is no way the clamps will get past that tape.
If you can secure the front wheel from turning in some other way than using your legs, such as placing it against a wall or door jam, that will work better when twisting the bars and allow you to get a better idea of how the straightening process is going. It is just easier to tell what the alignment is like when you are straddling the bike as if you were sitting on it.
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