ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

https://www.foxcreekleather.com/maverick-gauntlets/

These look nice here.  I might get a pair to try for on the road.
Id LOVE to have them for the track, but debating.  I am sure the leather may hold up but the plastic / metal across the knuckles stuff, is to protect from sliding over stones and debris too.

Slide across a sharp rock knuckles down, the force of that slide will transfer thru the leather, possibly cut you, PROBABLY break the bone that smashes across it.  Now add metal / plastic armor across the knuckles etc, the force of that slide is transferred across the face of the plastic armor NOT punctual thru to your bones, and may very well save you from the break.  This armor etc also helps to keep you stiff and from bending / twisting in not wanted directions too.  Again something the unarmored deerskin may not do.  I wonder how hard it would be to put armor on them?  Knuckle guards etc type stuff?  The armor does it's job but still, having softer flexible supple leather around that would be awesome.

But man, they do look nice and for normal riding. hmm. 

They brag a lot about keeping the air our of your arm.  My fingers usually are what got cold, even with the hand warmers, they only warm the bottom of your hands / fingers, the tips/tops still got  cold as hell, especially if there is ANY moisture in the glove from sweat etc.

I think Ill get a pair of the large size and see how they fit, more specifically how they eventually wear and fit in after wearing for a bit.

Aaron

Agreed on gauntlets...

https://www.foxcreekleather.com/gloves/deerskin-motorcycle-gloves-and-gauntlets/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9qWUzvmFhgMVxDmtBh2F7AvzEAAYASAAEgLSivD_BwE

That is something I'll look into.  Not sure why it's not more known that deerskin is an option if it is abrasion resistant as you said.  Maybe it's more of a northern thing?  I know we'd use to cure our skins when we got a deer, and could sell them, and do remember seeing deer skin this and that, but never seemed very popular.  Maybe I just didn't pay enough attention.. shrug.

It'd have to be a gauntlet style glove at very minimum.  My biggest problem is I guess you could say, I have short fatter fingers, gloves tend to me made more slender or longer fingered, so to get something that is fat enough to get my fingers into, I have to pick an overall  bigger glove, which also means longer fingers, which means you have a flap at the tip. 
Currently I have some very high end gloves that fit good but are a bit long, and a pair that fits nicely, but just...do the job, not really top tier protection.  It may not sound like much but god forbid you get caught between the bike and the ground and you are sliding a bit, or even just a power slide on your hands, on the pavement, then yah, having that piece of metal between your finger and the pavement, is a nice thing to get worn away first....   People always say, well tuck, well bring your arms in, etc etc.  when you are flying thru the air or get violently thrown off your bike at 90 MPH, those desired actions may not be immediately achievable.

I try to be cautious,  sometimes maybe over cautious, but if / when I go down, I want to be able to walk away from it, not be flown away.  Even a minor runoff that you tip over in the grass can tear your ass up in very short order.  When words like 'hardpack' are used to describe the terrain around the track, there is no soft landing.

Aaron

Deerskin has excellent abrasion properties, can be close fitted (not bulky) so thermal transfer from heated grip is most effective and recovers best when wet compared to any other glove leather.

Been on this kick for 30-years, no insulation desired, works best when protected by fairing or hand-guards...always bought off the shelf never custom that would be nice...track racing is different, I get it.

I've owned 5 electric motos including two zeros. I dumped zero about 4 years ago due to J Juan crap brake rotor issues and even more due to their non support for my local dealer (who subsequently dropped zero for similar reasons). I have hoped this was just zero growing pains, and the DSRX is calling me. Burn me once, . . .

IMO, the DSR/x is a great bike.


I need to soon compare it again to my Experia now that I have the FW update on the Experia that should remove the countless bugs my bike had.


But the DSR/X was my favorite bike of my 11 for most of my rides, at least before the Experia FW update. IMO, the Zero DSR/X was the best bike Zero ever made.


-Don-  Reno, NV

I live in Chattanooga TN, bought mine in Nashville, they've dropped them, now 2 in Atlanta, gotten a few trade in offers out of curiosity, two local dealers here both offered $2500 for my 23' DSR 14.4, Knoxville dealer a few months back offered 8k, maybe I should have taken it.  I bought it to ride but admit I have a short attention span, wondering about parting it out.

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Thanks Pard,  I see a few around here, most look furniture, one  S and M, might need to pay them a visit anyways!  a few bike stuff s o we'll see if they'd be interested IN something like this.

Aaron

This probably has more to do with the software than capability of the battery. Not to say that a nearly discharged battery is as capable as a fully charged one, but I can say from first hand knowledge of the gen 2 bikes that Zero effectively neuters the capability of the battery by rapidly limiting the maximum discharge rate allowed by the motor controller. The bike performs much better if you deactivate all that. It's simple enough through the DVT software on the gen 2 bikes. I don't know that the programming software for the gen 3 bike's controller is available to the general public though or that it isn't fully integrated with an external control unit.