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@Specter outstanding posts.  Wish I could track my Rebelle.  Amazing how much you learn from other riders on the track.  So much expertise concentrated in one spot!

Was out at my local track riding my 400 yesterday. 

Go pro footage:

The first update with the new app version takes a dealer, then we can do our own.

Just as I assumed. But did the update do anything useful?


-Don-  Reno, NV

IM running about 29.5 in the back  that goes up to about 33 ish when track hot. I like it there, I dont see any problems with my rear end.
 It was recommended to try a bit lower, like 27 but it grows a bit much like 5 to 6 psi,  and I think is a bit squirrely in hard corners.
So, basically right there 29 to 30 is the sweet spot cold.  I get a nice even wear on the tire, it looks really good actually and they last a decent amount of time too.

Im running 31 to 32 in the front, it'll hit 36 ish in the front when hot.  You have to remember, when it comes time to shed speed, especially if you have to do so quickly, that battery is a LOT of weight transfer forward in a hurry, you want that front loaded up to hold it.  Not to mention if you are running a hard regen mode, you can probably easily transfer half your body weight or more to the handlebars as well, which will be picked up by the front.

I typically am right around 170 to 175 Lbs, and throw on 24 lbs of leathers, armor, boots, helmet and there you are.  So you may need to adjust yours a bit if your numbers are off by say more than 10 to 15 lbs.

I DO need to add a disclaimer.  I still am not entirely happy with my front end handling.  I have shock / suspension work to do still.  Ive had a few pro's ride the bike (one of them the suspension expert) and we are in agreement, something is not right and we need to figure and fix it.  With that being said, eventually if we end up changing a spring, and shock loadings etc,  the pressures may change a bit.  But for now, this lets me run a respectable lap and do so safely.  Currently Im running Continental  Attack 2's  190/55 and 120?? whatever the front is.

Aaron

I actually JB Welded my levers back together when some thieves broke them off, was good enough for the couple of days it took to get them in.

@Stonewolf,  or just idling,  maintenance throttle or gliding down it's making noise, yah it's time to tighten.
BUT on the other hand, if you are at idle and you are walking the bike or going real slow and can feel the bump bump of the motor poles, then it's too tight, you over tightened it,  back it off a flat or 2.

Aaron

You know, after seeing all these people replacing brake levers, I don't feel so stupid anymore.
Ive just said F it, Ill leave it busted off at the tip, the last time I changed it, probably less than a month later, I tipped it at the track rolling it down the trailer, hit sand and it slid, front brake did NOT hold on the ramp, front end turned and shore nuff'  yep, busted the fkn brake lever off again at the tip!   As long as I have something workable to grab, which I do, Im good man!

I'll be honest, when racing, Id rather have a nubby brake lever, that I can one or two finger, that way it's more of a lift and slide the finger over a tad to engage the brakes, instead of having to work up and around the entire damned thing.  The whole lever gets in the way,  a nub in the corner, is really,  a lot better!!  Just my opinion, but if one gets a chance, really should try it.   Especially the EGO Corsa, the brakes you look at them and they engage!  There really isn't a whole lot of leverage needed, just a nice gentle finger squeeze.

Aaron

The first update with the new app version takes a dealer, then we can do our own. They updated mine while I drank espresso in their cafe'.

no serial center stand has ever been build & shipped

And I wonder if they ever will.


-Don-  Reno, NV

Regarding noisy chain:

Upwards from approx. 30 km/h the gear is the loudest part on my Ribelle. If you ask me, Energica put this spur-toothed gear on the bikes to expressly generate a sound, which I like very much (had a Zero SR/F before).

BTW, nice side effect: If you can hear the chain at 20 km/h it has to be replaced.

Yes sorry of course its the "straight cut or something" gear and not the chain itself. 
At higher speeds it's just mainly windnoise just like many other bikes.

Yeah, once the chain starts to clatter on rolloff it's a convenient indicator that you need to tighten it up. It's a consistent thing I bring up when people talk about losing gears and exhaust which is your limited attention (however much of it you have) is freed up to concentrate on all the other stuff you were missing.