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[Specter]

So I am trying to install a Ram Mount on my handlebar.  The one I choose is the one where you take a bolt out of your handlebar hold down pad, and slide the mount over it, it's a ball, then put the bolt back down thru it, then you can slide your goodies on the ball and tighten down.. anyways.

The 4 bolts that hold the handlebar down via the pad there.  They are Hex head's.  Whomever worked on my bike last, they torqued these down so tight I can not get it loose.  I see indications that someone tried earlier and slightly deformed the head on the bolt.

Any suggestions how to loosen this thing without breaking stuff?
I already snapped one hex wrench trying to loosen it,  are these reverse threaded by any chance?
I dribbled some Penetrating Oil on it hoping to free it up a bit but they are not corroded that I can see, god I hope someone didn't locktite it.

Impact wrench maybe?   Any ideas to try so I don't wring the bolt head off and find myself in a bad situation.

Thanks
Aaron

also, once putting back, what are the torque values for those 4 bolts that hold the handlebars on?

[SwampNut]

A reminder that I own a Zero, not Energica, but my experience is the same on most bikes.  They ARE usually Loctited, and heavily torqued.  There is a HUGE difference in driver quality, and that's particularly obvious with Torx.  The same for fasteners; Zero used the most garbage Chinesium fasteners possible on the fairing, but most others are OK.  When I tried to use some generic Torx driver, there was a lot of slop, and it damaged the fasteners.  When I grabbed my Wiha kit, the drivers fit so precisely that the bolts don't even fall off when you pull them out by the driver.  They sell Wiha driver bit sets at Lowe's.  Expensive, and worth it.

[smithy]

also, once putting back, what are the torque values for those 4 bolts that hold the handlebars on?

If the bolts are 8mm thread, the torque is only 19nm...

Smithy.

[Specter]

Then why would one torque them so fkn hard on the initial install?

Swamp, yah I was using the Home Despot I think they were the cobalt ones?  probably not the best, but shit, did not expect the damned thing to snap / almost shatter in my hand!

I get it, you really do NOT want your handlebars loose but holy crap, they don't have to be this stupid tight either!

I have an impact wrench, it's battery operated but the torque on this thing is just obscene.  Im tempted to put a drive hex in it and go at them but dammit man, I really do not want to snap the bitch off, then be stuck trying to drill that MF out afterwards or playing with ez outs and helicoils to tighten it back up again.

Aaron

PS, yah the Energica's fairing bolts are not too snazzy either,  they are rather soft and it's easy to go roundy roundy on them as well taking them out

[Demoni]

I would suggest trying to loosen the other bolt (either above or below) securing that side of the clamp. Confirm the correct torque value for those bolts is 25Nm. It is possible that they were incorrectly torqued at the factory, or over tightened at some point after production.

My tool of choice when loosening those fasteners is a 3/8 18" breaker bar, no rounded bolt heads or broken bits.

Worst case drill the head off the bolt. Use a (quality) 1/8 drill bit to provide a pilot hole about 1/4" deep. Then use a 5/16 bit to remove the bulk of bolt head, a 3/8 bit will separate the head of the bolt from the shank. Once you remove the head there will be no more clamping force and you should be able to unthread the remainder by hand.

I have removed thousands of the bolts used to secure Energica fairings with very little issue. Due to the small bit size (3mm) required, cheep tools or a bit not fully seated are the easiest ways to strip them out. I exclusively use Wiha driver bits along with a Milwaukee M12 screwdriver (2401-20) when removing or installing those bolts (torque setting .

[Specter]

Thanks Demoni.  I'll have to go out and get some Wiha bits then.  Hopefully we don't get into that nightmare with the handlebars, I really do not want to have to work out a snapped bolt.

My fairing bolts, all but one were smooth as silk getting out, but that one bolt, just did not want to come out and caused a bit of a mess when I finally was able to tap tap and work it out.  Probably was over tightened when it was at the shop last time.

Aaron

[SwampNut]

I just realized that I misreported my bit brands.  It was Wera that had the insanely perfect fit.  Wiha was good, very good, solid bits too.  But the Wera ($$$$$) were the most accurate.

[Specter]

Well, you get what you pay for, and considering most people invest in their tools to be a lifetime investment really, a bit more up front will pay off tenfold over the use of the thing, especially if poor fitting tools, tear shit up and you need to get new then.  Im slowly building up a tool box for my bike only.  That way I know I got what I need, got what fits, and where it is at, and it's not spooged up from another job!

Then again, and not saying E' is doing this but, people can use crappy parts too, which are not exactly to spec either.  I remember getting a diesel engine from India, and it came with it's own crude tool set, and I was thinking, oh that's nice, followed by that's strange, and, why would they add common sockets / open ends etc, and the ones they gave looked like someone poured them in their garage.  Then I tried a 'Non Lister' tool and found out!  Their sizes were 'THEIR" sizes, and probably nobody elses heh.  FWIW though that engine was near indestructible.

I am considering ordering this toolset and waiting to work on these bolts, I can see now it really looks like this bolt is not going to come out peacefully so maybe a better wrench into it will help keep it from rounding.

Aaron



Aaron